zippy_doda

I cheated Lil, I know your other hangout where you revealed the answer :D

Nice shots..

 

Sigmonster 300-800! :)

The diopter should not be set all the way in one direction unless that is where you need it. Take some test shots or focus on an object and watch the indicator to set your diopter.

Only aperture and distance to subject effect flash output, the smaller your aperture or the farther the distance the harder your flash has to work. To balance ambient with flash just keep an eye on your meter in the view finder, it?s metering ambient light. If it says your 1 stop under expect your background to be 1 stop under and your subject will be exposed properly by the flash (hope that made sense)

 

Not sure what body your using but on the D200 output of individual flashes can be made from the menu. I have never used the SB800 as a commander so I?m not sure but I think you also have those options on the speedlight.

Interval timer may not be your best best. You will have to change exposure as the eclipse progresses. At f/16 and 400ISO you can start around 1/400-500 shutter speed and end up at 1/8sec shutter before totality. During totality your shutter may range from 4sec. to 4min. depending how dark it is (some are darker than others depending on the angles)

 

The eclipse will go through is stages for approximately 3 hours. I would recommend bracketing your shots in 10-15min intervals. If you don't have a barn door to track the movement totality might be a problem with long exposures, try to keep them under 4-5 seconds or you'll get soft images from movement.

 

Good luck, I wish I had clear sky's to shoot it.

Is your camera set to spot meter? Spot meter disables BL

Do you mean "Grey Market"?

Nikon US will not service them if you have problem I believe.

You'll need to manual focus

"Why not just use shutter priority then?"

 

Setting App wide open will always ensure you have the fastest shutter. Helpfull in changing light conditions.

Another vote from me for smugmug. I have never had a problem with speed as said above.

You may be seeing the preflashes and flash it uses to controll you remote.

Here's a lens collar for the 70-200. Might be a bit more than you want to spend but thought I'd point it out.

http://www.kirkphoto.com/lenscollars.html#NCP80

 

The only problem I see with the lens is the push/pull zoom, I've tried and just don't like it. I ended up with a new version and it was a great lens.

Longer working distance with the 105mm.

I?m shooting with a 17-55 and 70-300 as my primary lenses. I find I VERY rarely miss the 55-70 gap. I am quite happy with my 70-300VR but I don?t need it for low light, if you need low light lens in this range the 70/80-200 would be the way to go.

 

I also own the 30mm 1.4. I would not say it?s an essential lens but it never comes off my wife?s D40 and it?s an incredible combo. For me it?s about as ideal as it gets for family parties and such.

 

You may want to consider in what focal length you need your low light capability and if you would miss that 20mm gap if you went with the 18-50/70-xxx combo. I went from the 24-85 to the 17-55 even though most of my shots were in the 50-70 range and I don?t regret it a bit. It only took a few time out to get used to the shorter length and teach myself to walk up a bit more on a subject, the thought of having to take two steps forward opposed to having slower glass may make the difference for you.

 

Hope this helps?

If you?re in manual and try to set white balance with an underexposed setting it will fail. Check your meter isn?t showing under exposure in manual or try to put it in program mode.

I?m not shooting a D3 but I have followed several threads on different sites in the past few weeks complaining about your same combo. Many of the complaints were about vignetteing and soft corners. This probably doesn?t help but it sound like your not the only one in this boat.

The Sigma 18-50 2.8 may suit your needs if your looking in the 17mm zoom range.

Here you go

http://www.katzeyeoptics.com/

1.2 is the nominal voltage. Most cells will typically be a bit over nominal when coming off charge and initial charge voltage will also be above nominal. 1.3-1.4 is normal for any Ni-Mh or Ni-Cd battey.

Sharpening has to do with the anti alias filter over the filter more than the lens. A pro lens will give sharper image with less distortion and maybe a touch better contrast.

 

It will not help to set correct WB, exposure and composition. There will always be some amount of PP.

I?ll assume your looking for the older non VR version. I have seen the price for these going for about $450 (+/-50) in good condition.

If you don?t mind buying used I have seen a couple Nikon 17-55 lenses go for $800-$900. If your patient you may be able to find one in your price range from someone upgrading to FX.

 

My second choice would be Sigma for no other reason than I own their 30mm and I?m very happy with it.

I recently upgraded my wife?s camera from a Coolpix 5800 to a D40. The coolpix have a terrible user interface, bad shutter lag, small noisy sensor and the list goes on.

 

I?m sure he will not be disappointed with a D40 or D40x.

Thanks for correcting my mistake Michael. D-TTL NOT iTTL

All lenses should fit and you should have metering with all CPU lenses according to p.177 in the manual.

 

Any flash designated DX will work in iTTl. Most of the older flashes will function in "A mode"