tony_hoffer

Unlike most of these "HELP" requests, you seem to have a good perspective on where you

are and what you're looking at. I know you're not looking for any beginner, have your

bases covered type responses, so I'll spare you of that.

First, I would take the monopod. It can't hurt. Just set it in the back of the church. If you

use it, great. If not, no big deal.

Second, I can't imagine that the two batteries in the grip wouldn't be enough. I never have

to switch camera batteries during a wedding. If you want to be really cautious, take the

AA's and maybe your battery charger. I doubt you would need them, but again, it can't

hurt.

As far as the strobe/flash thing. I really doubt that you could do the strobe and have it be

functional/effective by then. I would either rent a flash or buy a third party brand if you're

not planning on doing this type of thing again. Then just shoot the flash in TTL with your

camera in manual.

I realize this is oversimplifying and that its not great advise for an aspiring wedding

photographer, but it doesn't seem like that's a goal of yours, so hopefully that will get you

through...

I agree, probably a computer problem. Maybe not enough RAM.

The snob in me thinks this is probably happening on a PC?? :)

Thanks very much. I'm in my 2nd year, so I've been where you are. I've found that setting fair

pricing and being up front has worked for me and as I've built a client base, I've been able to

raise prices to reflect my work.

Of course, the most important thing for new photogs is talent, and it looks like you've got

some!

For your first time, I definitely think you're headed in the right direction. There are some

really nice shots there. There are also a few that are a bit overprocessed, but overall a nice

job.

On another and more important note. I would be really careful about the way you're

pricing yourself. Offering anything and everything to whomever for whatever price has two

very serious problems:

First let me say that I understand your need and desire for business. As a new

photographer, I respect your decision to let people know that up front. However, for your

own sake, not naming a price is likely to box you in as the 'cheap photographer' to clients

who are spreading the word about you, rather than 'the good photographer, who's just

getting started'. When you eventually set prices, people may be surprised to see how

much wedding photography really is when you factor in the hours, insurance, backup

equipment, marketing, ect...

The MORE important issue is this: If you want to be serious about wedding photography

(and it seems that you do), I would be very careful about seriously undercutting the pros

in your area. Eventually this catches up to people when they have to start paying for the

things I mentioned above. The greater effect, though, is that it can cause clients to think

that they can pay a very small amount for great, professional service. With everything that

is required of a wedding photographers, its a dangerous line to walk.

Anyway, I know you simply wanted a critique of your images. As someone starting out, I

think you're doing good and would love to see some more work as you progress and

establish a style. Good luck!

You could do all of that, or a combination of many things. BUT, my question to you is this:

In a well lit room, during the daytime.... Why use flash??

That was supposed to say:

"I'm not sure IF some of the real..."

Hi Marianne,

I'm nowhere close to you, but you're in a great location. Southern Cali is where some of the

best wedding photographers are coming from. I'm not some of the real well-known photogs

are accepting second shooters, but it wouldn't hurt to try for the best first. Look up names

like becker, jessica claire, jasmine star, david jay... all in southern Cal I think.

Before you change prices, I might suggest some easy, cheaper changes. For example, I

would probably change the gallery on your website so that each image is not a pop-up.

Maybe update it if you haven't in a while. Maybe even start a blog or something to connect

with your clients more. These things seem small, but if I was looking around, and was

getting a separate pop-up for each image I wanted to see, I might just look somewhere

else.

I might also evaluate how and where you are meeting with clients, and if you are doing

your best to make your sale. The nature of the market right now is for lots of young,

supercheap, and usually bad photographers to undercut pros. I think there is still money

to be made for a photographers that separate themselves with quality. It seems like your

work is nice, so I might look into finding more ways to show it off to clients.

If you're really into the rumored new 5D, I would highly recommend getting a 40D for $1000

for now. Great camera, extra reach, low noise.

Then you can still buy the new 5d for $3000 or $3500 when it comes out (assuming it does).

Two great new cameras for less than the cost of a single, older MarkII.

Just my 2 cents.

It depends on your shooting style. We never stop a processional. Our philosophy is to let

people enjoy the day, it's our job to capture it as they do. There's nothing wrong with

photographers who do, its just not our style.

Jeff,

Feel free to shoot me an email if you'd like. I may have a few dates the summer/fall where I

need someone. Tony (at) HofferPhotography (dot) com. Thanks.

I got an email from one a week or so ago asking me to join. I don't think it's something I'm

interested in doing. I think word of mouth and google are still the two best (and also the

cheapest) ways for me.

Making happy clients and asking them to tell people about you is probably the most effective

way to reach new people. I'm sure the brides in those groups would rather hear from another

bride than vendors trying to sell themselves.

Jeff,

What they're trying to say is that "fast" lenses are faster because they have a lower

aperture number. If you use the same aperture, every lens on earth will give the same

shutter speed. The reason they're faster is because they're capable of shooting at 2.8 or

1.8, ect..

So, if a lens has a maximum aperture of f/5.6 and it gives you a shutter speed of 1/125,

then a lens with f/4 would get you 1/250, f/2.8 would get you 1/500 and f/1.8 would get

you 1/1000.

Because of that, you can take a picture in lower light, or use a faster shutter speed in

good light, assuming you're using the maximum aperture. Does that make sense?

I'm assuming you want the reach from a body with a crop factor. If so, the 40D is a good

option for a second body. The image quality is good, may not match your 5D, but for the

price, its a good option.

To answer your last question, if you're shooting with flash in low light, aperture priority and

shutter priority are not going to give you very controlled results. Use manual mode and dial

in the exact settings you want. For example, f2.8 and 1/80th. Then your flash will adjust

accordingly in power to make a proper exposure if its in TTL mode.

If you want a simple answer... LIGHTROOM!

I post-process all the images as well (except I don't do too much dodging and burning), and

I use lightroom for 95% of the work for proofs. Batch processing is a HUGE timesaver. If

clients order albums or prints, then I do very intensive editing for those images.

The Sigma 18-50 worked well for me with Canon. I've since upgraded, but its a nice lens. If

you're looking for a 24-70 range, the Tamron 28-75 is usually considered the better of the

third party lenses. On a crop camera, though, that's not a very wide lens.

Personally I think the 18-50 range is better for a 20d, but you couldn't use it if you ever

upgraded to full frame.

If you have big hands, it's PERFECT for you. I'm 6'6", so my banana-hands start to hurt if I

use a camera without a grip.

It's one of the better "first weddings" I've seen. I like your high-contrast, high-saturation

style. It's effective but restrained, which generally isn't the case for beginners. The shots

beforehand and outside are especially nice.

As I think you're probably aware, your indoor shots have a little bit of direct flash

syndrome, although not as bad as some. Off camera lighting is probably the solution in

that dark, bounce-free room, but I understand that for a first wedding, this isn't always an

option financially.

All in all, I think you'll have some great images for your portfolio and you seem to have a

lot of talent. Once you can master the lighting as well as some angles to compliment the

people you're shooting, I think you could be very good at this.

Good luck!

Julian,

Two answers to your questions. First, be aware that with 4 pocket wizards, you could only

have 3 flashes off camera. You need one on-camera to trigger the others. There are

people that use the '4 corners' approach, but I never have. What I do, and recommend, is

using a flash on camera in ETTL for fill, then I set up 1 or 2 off-camera as a key/rim light.

I power those down pretty low, just to get a nice effect. I always bounce the on camera

flash.

For your church question, I would stay away from setting up off camera flash. During a

church ceremony, that would be very distracting. However, I avoid direct flash like the

plague. In that situation, I would shoot high ISO and use fast lenses, 1.4 or 1.8 if you

could, or a 2.8 with IS. Best of luck. Dark churches are the bane of our existence, aren't

they?

Charles,

Will the Depth of Field be any greater for an object 240,000 miles away? By my calculations,

you could shoot a 1200mm lens at f/1 and have the whole thing in focus.

http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html