mike_gendimenico

<p>I was using my 5D MK III as my primary body and the MK II as second/backup but I just purchased a 5D Mk IV. So will now move up the chain and use the MK III as my second body. I have a 5D Mk I I haven't used for years so figure I will sell that as well as my Mk II as I don't see using that much any more either.<br>

Any idea what the going price is for these two bodies? Both are in pretty good shape, include the battery grips and the Mk I has had the mirror assembly replaced. And, if anyone might be interested, please hit me up!</p>

<p>Hello-<br>

I've been shooting trade shows for a well known, but smaller music gear company for a few years. The usage agreement has always been use unlimited web/social media for two years, advertising and 3rd party use negotiable. This year, I got a few photos of one of their endorsee musicians holding his endorsed/signature product and the company wants to use one of the photos for advertising. <br>

Never had to price a commercial photo for advertising so asking around to get a general idea of what to charge. My pro photog friend in LA that does a lot of music related photography said depending on the use, $7,500-$10K is not unreasonable (had no idea it would be that high). She said feel them out and ask how, where and what it will be used for. She advised against a buyout and said those go for quite a bit more money. <br>

I sent a note back to the company asking some details on usage and that I usually license photos, not do buyouts. Told them I am flexible and we'll work something out. They responded with a very short note and said give them two quotes, one for unlimited use for one year and one for the buyout. <br>

I have a very good relationship with them, they pay me well and creative/expenses are already accounted for since I will get paid for the overall event job. This deal could potentially lead to other licensing from them in the future so want to give them a good deal but not undercut myself either.<br>

Thoughts?<br>

Thanks in advance for any advise!</p>

<p>I do events for a living and we ship a LOT of equipment worldwide and use both the "Anvil" type cases as well as the Pelican & SKB type cases. I would go with the Pelicans. They're pretty tough and have rarely seen them get damaged except for maybe the wheels. They're also water & dustproof and have very sturdy inset latches as well as guaranteed for life (and you'll be happy you got wheels). <br>

Anvil type cases but are tough and usually used for larger equipment but they aren't water/dust proof (just laminated plywood with metal edges and corners). Have seen a number of busted ones that we're either dropped or got into a fight with a forklift... </p>

<p>I've been using a Blackrapid standard single sling for a few years and really like it. Was looking into their two camera solutions today and saw the Yeti. <br>

Has anyone used a Yeti with two large bodies (ie 5D with grip): http://www.blackrapid.com/products/yeti <br>

Thanks!</p>

 

<p>Don - didn't see your post until after I posted, but yes, I'm basically looking for better results on moving subjects especially under lower light conditions. Since I also switch between portrait and landscape often when doing this, I'm also looking forward to trying out the Orientation Linked AF.<br>

I do a lot of music related events as well as some unit photography so hoping to have far less throwaways because of focus issues. I <br>

And, thanks for the info!</p>

<p>I've owned a 5D MkII for a little over two years and still have an original 5D that I kept for backup. I do mostly event photography and the one thing I just haven't been satisfied with on the MkII is the focusing & metering system. I also tend to shoot at higher ISOs and mostly use all f2.8 L lenses. From the research I've done, the MKIII excels over the MkII in those two areas. If I was doing studio, product, landscapes, etc, I probably would not do the upgrade. Also, this may be subjective (and I haven't used my 5D MKI in quite a while), but seems like the color reproduction on my MkI photos are somewhat better than the MkII. I still think the MkII is a great camera and will use that as my secondary now. <br>

Fortunately, I recently did a job that paid very well and had some Amazon gift cards stacked up, so with the price drop, I figured it was time to pull the trigger. I will also now sell my original 5D and a couple of lenses I no longer use. </p>

<p>I've been debating about upgrading to a 5D MkIII and was looking at pricing the last few days. Looks like the pricing has dropped some and was able to get brand new one on Amazon for $2,975 (from Amazon directly, not a third party). I also saw in my searches that Walmart had them for the same price. <br>

I know there is a Canon factory promo on the 5D MkII currently but figured I would drop an FYI here... :)</p>

 

<p>I loved my 5D MkI, took some great photos with it. Still have it but only kept it for a backup once I got the MKII. The 5D is dated but like someone said, if you don't need all the bells & whistles of a new camera, you can probably find a good used one at a pretty good price.<br>

Only thing to be aware of with the original 5D is the mirror tech issue (Poor factory mirror adhesive/assembly, so eventually the mirror falls off). Canon will fix it for free but good to check if that was done...</p>

 

<p>Really odd, but sounds like a bad CF card to me. The Canon's do not have any internal storage so images can't be anywhere else except the CF card. Remember that Canon's can shoot w/o a card installed (which is enabled by default) so unless you turned that function off, if the card gets jacked up for a period and it un-mounts as the storage device, you can continue to shoot and no images will be recorded. (I shot w/o a card once and learned my lesson so have since turned that function off.)<br>

Have been using 32GB Transcend cards for the last four or 5 years and have never had one go bad and the performance is very good. I use Lightroom and use a Sony multi-card USB 2 reader. The speed will be no different from that or the camera since they are both USB 2. I have also found that the really cheap CF card readers have very sloppy sized CF slots and often result in bent pins, so was one of the reasons I sprung the extra few bucks for the better built Sony reader. If you happen to be doing SD cards, the built in SD card reader on most laptops will be much faster than a USB 2 card reader or camera tether.<br>

I just purchased a new laptop with USB 3 so am looking into buying a Lexar USB 3 CF reader (Lexar's demo shows a 3x improvement in file transfers.)</p>

 

 

 

<p>As someone else said, unless you need improved AF or better low light performace, the 5D is still a great camera. I upgraded to a MKII last year but still keep my 5D as a backup. I took so many great photos with that camera over four years. Only problem I ever had was the mirror falling off but that was a known issue and a freebie fix. </p>

 

 

<p>Finally sent my camera in for service this past month and got it back late last week. In addition to replacing the right top cover (banged up from a drop), they did report that the AE assembly adjustment was incorrect which was causing the uneven exposure. Not sure if that mis-adjustment was the result of the drop but at least I know there was something wrong with the camera and not operator error. :) I do have to say the camera came back spanking clean and looks almost new. (It was pretty filthy after a few multiple day music festivals this past year...) </p>

<p>Been using IFP3 for my website for a number of years now and am planning a major overhaul/update in 2012. Although IFP3 started out strong, it seems like they have really slacked off in upgrades and improvements over the last year or so. I inquired in the IFP3 forums about improvements coming in 2012 a few days ago and so far not a single response. Not good... Seems like Smugmug and Zenfolio are offering better services for less $ anyway. <br>

I've seen good things about Zenfolio, but looking at maybe switching to Smugmug since they are partnered with Bay Photo Labs and that's the local lab I use for prints. <br>

Any thoughts from folks using Smugmug for their website? </p>

<p>From some other reviews I've been reading, I think the ELPH will be fine for her. She does very basic photos and pretty much keeps things in auto almost all the time. The S90 will be a little too complex for her to use and I'm not quite ready to do the S100 upgrade.</p>

<p>My SO's old Powershot SD finally died, so need to replace that (was my old point and shoot before I got my S90). She only needs something kind of basic so was looking at the Powershot ELPH series since the controls should be similar.<br>

Any opinions on the ELPHs? Was looking at the 300HS and the 100HS. Doesn't seem to be too much difference except the 300 series have more shooting modes (that she probably won't use).<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p>Not sure about like you're getting any payment for the photos but it sounds like what is bothering you the most is lack of photog credit. I would ask for the photo(s) to be properly credited and tell them you would like to work with them again. If this person has a sizable new TV role they may have a publicist handling web stuff for them. <br /> I'll also throw in here that I've done unit photography on indie films and various film festivals and the lesson I learned from that was to only distribute proof sized images to the filmmakers, crew & org and ALWAYS put a copyright watermark on every photo so they didn't end up somewhere on the web w/o credit. And these days you never know where they will end up. Also a good idea to have some type of agreement in place even if it's a freebie job especially if it involves doling out high res images....</p>

<p>$1K per day + post processing & expenses (if applicable) is what I normally charge but I have charged less for non-profits. You can also just ask what their budget is and see if it's suitable for the time you would put into it. I've had a couple of jobs like that where the client said I have $x are you willing to do it for that much (again non-profits or friends).</p>

<p>Thanks for the input guys. It's about 2/3 of a stop difference if I compare in Lightroom but I have had more severe overexposure at other times, just don't have those photos handy. Many times I have to adjust the EC ~-2/3 to get a properly exposed photo where I never had to do that with my old 5D. Again, I will probably send the camera in for service within a month or so to have it checked out. </p>

<p>Second frame, Same settings but shutter speed dropped to 1/125 even though all other settings were the same with no refocus or recomposure.</p><div></div>

<p>I would like to try a controlled test, but crazy travel schedule through November so that will have to wait. In the mean time here are a two recent photos that were shot sequentially but exposure ended up a few stops different.<br>

These are both are shot in Av, evaluative metering, No AEB, f/5, ISO 500. This photo shutter speed was 1/200.</p><div></div>

<p>As everyone else said B&H or Adorama. Prices are the same and both will be less expensive than buying in Europe. If you like to browse and just take a look at a LOT of gear, go to B&H. If you pretty much know what you want or only have a few questions and don't want to spend a lot of time in the store, go to Adorama as it's faster in & out. Both are closed Friday afternoon and Saturday.</p>

<p>I am mainly looking to see if anyone else has this issue and trying to determine if it's an operator or camera issue. AEB is off and yes, I'm aware of the EC wheel setting since that's how I stop the exposure down to compensate for this problem. I mostly use Evaluative metering and only change that for something like very bright backgrounds. I really don't like to use Manual for events, concerts and the like. Call me lazy but if my old 5D metered consistently with the same settings, I don't understand why the newer model can't do the same. <br>

Will see if I can dig up an example this afternoon. Since the camera is still under warranty I will most likely send it back either way and have it checked out.</p>

<p>I purchased a 5D MkII last December after upgrading from the original 5D which I owned for about 4 years. Over the past year I've noticed that the MkII seems to regularly overexpose outdoor shots a couple of stops. I primarily shoot in Av mode, sometimes in P. I've even seen this with still subjects where I fire off multiple shots and one shot will be overexposed and the adjacent frame is exposed correctly (no refocus or recomposure between frames). A lot of times I just end up adjusting the exposure down to compensate.<br>

I never had this problem with my original 5D as the metering was almost always spot on, so you would think the more advanced MkII would have better metering, not worse. I've seen some other posts around the web on this same issue but never saw a solution. <br>

I've also had the occasion of a flash photo just turning out completely black even though the flash fires and then the next shot is ok. <br>

I will probably send the camera into Canon next month to have it checked out but figured I would throw up a post here as well.<br>

Thanks! </p>

<p>Hector Javkin posted this new blimp on my old blimp thread, so figured I would bump it up. They are on pre-order at B&H and will be very curious to see how they perform: <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Gear-Protection/ci/11818/N/4294538476">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Gear-Protection/ci/11818/N/4294538476</a>.<br>

Coming from a company that does sport housings, I would guess the camera operation part is probably far, far better than a Jacobson blimp. Will be curious to see what the sound deadening performance is like. If it's as good as a Jacobson, maybe they will finally get off their butts and do some real product updates....</p>

<p>Yeah, I've seen plans for Dave's homemade one, but it has a lot of shortcomings (like non-adjustable zoom) and I don't have the time or facility to make it anyway. The Jacobson is the standard and does the job, but the two button shutter setup stinks and they haven't bothered to do any updates for digital cameras, so have been eyeing up the Aussie version as an alternative. (I've been borrowing or renting Jacobson's as needed)</p>

<p>I've used a Blackrapid with both of my 5Ds (MkI & II), with battery grip, lenses up to a 70-200 2.8 plus a 580EX flash and it works great! Leaves me with both hands free, but can just grab the camera when needed. Have walked miles at festivals with my camera at my hip with no problems. It really saves my wrist, arms and shoulders.<br>

I've also used it with on set with a Jacobson blimp and just swap the eye screw back to the camera when I no longer need the blimp. Much, much better than hand holding a blimp for hours on end. Best $40 I ever spent. I have not tried the dual camera strap setup myself, but a pro friend of mine said it didn't work well for her.<br>

The only thing you have to be aware of is that when the camera and lens sits at your hip, the A/M focus switches on the lens can get switched when rubbing against your body, so be sure to check that or put a piece of gaff tape over the switch. Also, the BR screw in eye can occasionally loosen up, so be sure to check it once in a while.</p>