brettarthur

sorry, i erased part that last post when i inserted the image. anyway, i reset my gamma like i was advised to by a few people and nothing has changed.neither of those images have been touched up or anything and if i were to edit the file in photoshop, id want it to be something like the one on flickr, but not so over sharpened. so if i did that, the image would be way too desaturated and shifted.

here is a screen shot of the color shift. each image is set to sRGB. I reset my

 

 

<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3124/2871177455_5742430dc9_o.jpg" width="573" height="461" alt="color"

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thanks again!

 

tom: haha, thanks for the heads up!

Alright, I know all about making sure you color profile is set to sRGB and all that. I have everything set to

sRGB and yet when I save my file as a jpeg, upload it, it still becomes a disgusting slightly green, blown out

piece. I lose a lot of detail when this happens as well. I have tried saving via Save For Web and through Save

As. What am I doing wrong that I am still having this problem. This is the first time it has happened to such a

large degree of color change.

 

I use CS3 and I shoot with Nikon d300 and shoot everything raw and mostly develop my raw files in camera raw.

That also is another problem. When I am working in camera raw, my images looks great and when I take it into CS3

and proof it with Monitor RGB, it looks HORRIBLE! I don't know if it lack of sleep doing this to me, but it

surely is frustrating.

 

Thanks!

Hey everyone,

I am about to buy a new set of Alien Bee 800's and I am wanting to fire them

wireless. I also want to be able to utilize my SB-800 and SB-600 and shoot all

four lights wireless. What is my best route to achieve this while staying in my

budget, which is not a lot. haha. Thanks!

I am having the same problem as many others. When I apply these techniques, I am getting very high amounts of artifacts in my final result that is not suitable for print. I watched a behind the scenes video of Dave Hill's and somebody in the video mentioned him using LucisArt, but I am not sure if it was meant to be sarcastic or not. I know he uses a 5D for a lot of his shots, but even with that sensor, I am not getting anywhere near the same result.

 

Have any idea how I can get rid of these artifacts?

Can anyone recommend a good set of flash triggers for my Nikon body and flashes?

I know I can use the pop-up, but that sometimes causes people to blink to early

in the shot. I am on a budget, so PocketWizards are probably out of the question.

 

Thanks,

Brett

honestly, not to push you in another direction, but a mac would be best for editing in my opinion. i used a few windows powered computers. the mac os is really great for being able to open a few programs up. for example, if you use a standalone software for noise reduction and are using pscs2 at the same time, it was great. i never have any slow down or freeze up. also, the monitors are amazing. another plus is the choise of programs like aperture and things like macfonts all that good stuff! if you go with a mac, try to get glossy monitor. its so true to what you are editing.

 

and in all honesty, if you go with sony, you are looking at nearly the same price. a mac might only be about $100-200 more if its a notebook vs. a macbook.

 

hope this helped!

 

best of luck!

 

sorry i don't more about the technical terms and all.

 

<a href="http://www.brettarthurphoto.com">brett</a>

i got ya. there is a photographer that does something he calls, "manual hdr" on his portraits. his site is <a a href="http://www.joeyl.com">www.joeyl.com</a>. go to commercial photography, then bands/musicians and look through some of the ones outside with the sky looking amazing. i think it's the band silverstein and also the ones of every time i die, they are dressed up like medieval characters or something with swords. i know it's not true HDR, its a fake "HDR" or something.

I am need to create an HDR image from a single shot. The reason it is from a

single shot is because there is people in the photo. I have tried to create

three different images from and then merge to HDR by having them set to EV -2.0,

metered EV and EV +2.0. Any suggestions or techniques I could use?

 

Brett

that was the problem, i was converting, not assigning.

 

thanks for the help!

from my personal experience, i usually use the clone stamp in cs2/3 to clean up any blemishes. i also use the healing brush tool too. after that i duplicate the layer and set it to soft light, turn the opacity down to about 50%, then flatten. next i use, what i prefer, noise ninja by picturecode to reduce any noise, sharpen the picture a little then if i see any more blemished or imperfections, i use the clone stamp and healing brush again on those spots. hope this helps.

what gear are you using (camera and PC)?

i have actually been using sRGB for all my work, but there seems to still be a HUGE difference.

so i usually use safari and obviously edit everything on my mac. when i edit my

photographs, the color is nearly exact when i upload them to the web and view

them on safari. later on i decided to use mozilla for some of the better

benefits of mozilla. so, i am wondering if there is something i am doing wrong

when saving my images because when i look at them on mozilla, they look like

crap. the colors are usually washed out and seem to be a lot more dull than the

way i originally edited them to be. any suggestions or answers?

 

brett