scherbi
-
Posts
40 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by scherbi
-
-
<p>I tried it last month. It works well. Very easy to get up and running too. Here's my first result:<br>
-
<p>I have a 28mm f/3.5 Olympus lens that I use on my 40D with an adapter. It's my first choice for street photo. The lens functions superbly, and I got it on ebay for $8.</p><p><br></p><p>Something from Canon around that focal length range would include autofocus and would probably be great too.<br></p>
-
<p>When I took <a href="http://www.zooomr.com/photos/scherbi/4318822/">this</a> shot with my 40D connected to a starmax 127 maksutov on a driven equatorial mount, i took sample shots at ISO 1600 to nail the focus. My scope is f/12.1 so even with a full moon in eclipse, it's too dark to focus, too dark even for the live view exposure compensation to work right, iirc. I could take a reasonably well exposed shot at 1600 in under 1 second. This allowed my to tweak the focus with three or four shots. Then I backed down to ISO200 for the 6 second exposure.</p>
<p>I hope that helps.</p>
-
<p>I have an Epson R380. It's about $100, and so is a full set of new ink. It's not as flexible (wrt printing media) as the R1800 or R2400, and doesn't use pigment inks like those, but it the print quality is very, very good for the money. It alos costs substantially less than either of those. The Claria dye inks are rated for 80 years under glass. I have no complaints about the lifetime of the ink cartridges.<br>
I've had excellent results with Epson's semi gloss paper and Red River's Polar Satin.</p>
-
I have a 40D with the 28-135 kit. I also have: 85/1.8, 100/2.8, EF-S 10-22, and two Olympus OM primes, 50/1.8 and 35/3.5.
I almost never use the 28-135, and when I do, i usually wish I didn't. Perhaps i have a bad copy, but I find it too soft when compared to the rest of my lenses.
I suggest you get the 40D body only, and buy a good lens. I think you would be very happy with the 17-40L. The 27mm equivalency at the wide end is sufficiently wide for many landscape shots, and it's an excellent lens. A friend has one, and I've used it on my 40D with good results.
If you need wider, the EF-S 10-22 is excellent.
I have yet to purchase the ideal walk around for my 40D. These days I probably use the 100mm Macro as a walk around most of the time. Or the 35mm for street photography.
When the funds are available, I think I will replace my 28-135 with the f/2.8 24-70L.
In summary, skip the 28-135. Buy the body and one lens, the very best one you can afford that suits one (or more) of your needs. Buy more very good lenses as funds allow.
I hope this helps.
-
I have Canon's EF-S 10-22mm. It's a great lens in your price range. Sigma has a lens with a similar range (10-20?) that's allegedly almost as good, but it's much cheaper than the Canon. I'm very happy with my EF-S 10-22.
-
I've got one of the $20 dollar ones. No focus confirm of course, but it's solid and dependable. Perhaps over priced, but the quality is good. It was from kawaphoto on ebay.
As for the focus confirm adapters, I've never tried one. I can't even figure out how they could work. If anyone knows, I'd love to hear it.
-
What mode were you in? I think that in full auto (green rectangle) and possibly also in P mode, the camera only records jpeg files.
-
I have two Olympus primes, 28mm f/3.5 and 50mm f/1.8 that I ue on my 40D with an adapter. The lenses and the adapter were all obtained on ebay. The 50 cost me $16 and the 28 cost me $8. They are wonderful lenses, more so for the price. Of course, the stock screen in the 40D doesn't help much with the manual focus, but the live view sure does.
-
Hello everybody ---
So, I took my camera to the beach at Montauk, NY. I got some great shots of the family. They were playing in the
surf and i got close to get some action shots... and then...could you belive it? I did *not* drop it in the
ocean! I used the strap. Around my neck. It worked like magic. Not once did my camera or any of my lenses fall
into the sea (or the sand, the pavement, or the concrete)!
If it makes anyone feel any better, I did get some sand in my Manfrotto tripod.
Cheers!
-
Yep. I have it too. Kit lens with my 40D. After purchasing the 85f1.8, I hardly ever used it because the IQ was no contest. Now, the 85f1.8 is a very fine lens, and prime so there is of course no contest, but I just never liked the look of the images from the 28-135. I also have the 10-22mm, the 100mm macro, and two manual olympus lenses (28f3.5 and 50f1.8) with an adapter. All of these far outperform the 28-135 in every respect (except for zoom range). I'm not sure exactly what's wrong with it; perhaps it's the way it's softness, bokeh, contrast and color combine to create an image is missing some magic that other lenses have.
-
I believe I now have all the info I need to move forward. Thanks everyone!
-
I was looking for how to interface with it, DIY, without wrecking my camera. I've externalized the test contacts for a small flash and would like to trigger it from the pc port. There is high voltage across those points, but it rolls a bit above 250 with fresh batteries. I thought the pc port was max 6 volts, but I've been unable to find a true spec for this port.
A an example of a dry closure would be a relay contact, or a plain old switch.
So, I need to use an SCR, and I guess I can use the batteries from the flash to power the pc circuit with a fdew volts to trip the scr.
Thanks.
-
Sorry if this has been asked before. I couldn't find it...
I have a 40D.
What is the spec of the flash sync (PC) terminal? Is it a dry closure, or does
it emit a pulse or what?
Is the PC sync a standard that is the same for all cameras and all flashes?
Thanks!
-
I think you'll find the chart and the discussion at the url below informative:
-
I shoot in RAW, so I don't bother with the Picture Styles on the camera, as I can tweak all of that equally well or better after I download the shots to the computer.
The C1, C2, C3 mode knob settings are useful if you want to be able to quickly move between certain settings. For example, You might have C1 set up for macro, with ISO100 and Tv at 1/125, and C2 setup for landscape mode with ISO 400 and Av at f/11. Then you can quickly move between them. If you are shooting JPG, you can have picture styles associated with C1, C2 and C3 as well. But you said "no action" so it sounds like you'll normally have the time to make these changes in the normal way.
I think you'll need to get out there and get shooting to find out what settings work for you. And then decide if you want presets for them.
Good luck!
-
<p>
I think it is a great lens. Very resistant to flare, low distortion even at 10mm, sharp, good color, and low CA. I'm very happy with it.
Here's an example shot at 10mm:
</p>
<a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/7054610">
<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/7054610-md.jpg">
</a>
-
OK. The original post used the jpg from the camera. This time, I've exported from the RAW in DPP, at 1024 pixels tall. It shows up properly rotated in my gallery. Thanks!
-
I have uploaded a photo taken with my Canon 40D in portrait mode. DPP and
ImageBrowser show the picture properly. The photo in my gallery however, is
landscape. Does photo.net have an option to rotate the photo that I haven't
found yet?
The photo is here:
http://www.photo.net/photo/6737911
Thanks!
-
I have the 40D and the same 28-135, and I use AWB all the time. I've never noticed any blue cast to the images. They are occasionally too warm (usually under indoor low light conditions; setting the WB to tungsten would probably fix this), but that's trivial to fix in post.
-
I've had my 85 f/1.8 for about 5 days now. Second lens for my 40d after the 28-135mm kit lens. The 85 is noticeably sharper and also much faster. It's all I've been shooting with since I got it. Highly recommended.
-
I got a 40D with the 28-135 kit about a month ago, and just a few days ago received the 85mm f/1.8 for my second lens. I wanted something fast for available light work, and I'm very happy. With the crop, it's like using a 136 on a full frame. It's great for portraits, but of course you need to step back a bit. The bokeh is delightful, with 8 aperture blades. The build quality is very good, and the AF is very fast. It costs a good bit more than the 50 1.8, but I've read that, while optically excellent, the build quality of the 50 is sub-par.
DPP Black & White
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted
<p>I highly recommend Nik software's Silver Efex Pro for monochrome conversion. Lots of options, very flexible, and great output. I use it as a plugin to Aperture.<br>
See this recent shot for one example:<br>
http://www.photo.net/photo/8600713<br>
They have free trials available, so give it a try.</p>