eddes

<p>Thanks Everyone<br>

My X-E2 and 23f1.4 combo is Ordered.</p>

I am considering one or the other.

 

Does anyone have real world experience comparing the two.

I understand the technical differences, interchangeable vs fixed lens,

EVF vs window. Price is not a factor. IQ is paramount.

My intention is to use as a travel camera for high IQ street and landscape/urbanscape. Ability to shoot low light is paramount as I will

always shoot available loght handheld.

 

Can the X-E2 work well for candids, low light, focusing etc.?

Does EVF work well indoors?

 

I tend to want the xe2 for the interchangeable lenses but dont want to compromise on candid work?

<p>Well most "pro's" don't use on camera flashes except as on location small units. They use monolights or powerpack based flash units. In this market there are many models with built in RF (e.g. elinchrom and Profoto).<br>

Technically, because of the timing issues involved, RF triggering is not that trivial. Bluetooth and wifi are not solutions. They do not have the delay capability. Both of these protocols require lots of handshaking consistent with protocols designed to stream packets data.<br>

Finally, Nikon and Canon built their technology before wireless became cheap and have a vested interest in backwards compatibility.</p>

<p>Hi Graig<br>

Check out "Quad Tone RIP". It's inexpensive. I don't think you can make a Color and B&W printer in the same kit but you could probably convert your 1270 to a B&W machine. Buy another cheap printer for color.</p>

<p>Guys, Thanks for the input<br>

I am ordering the i1 display pro.</p>

 

<p>Xrite is offering rebates for users with older Calibration tools to upgrade.<br>

I own and use an "i1 Display" (not the display 2 model, the original).<br>

Has anyone has experience with older hardware versus the newer stuff. Do you think it is worthwhile to upgrade and if so what hardware would really make a difference in getting reliable color. </p>

<ul>

<li>Colormunki display</li>

<li>i1 display pro</li>

<li>Colormunki pro</li>

</ul>

<p>Thanks</p>

 

<p>Digital cameras only have too last until a couple of generations and they are obsolete. Why make it too durable and price yourself out of the market. This is evolving technology.</p>

<p>Also Steve is right in that we demand less durability today for more wow factor. But that's not a new thing, just more common. GM Beat out Ford to become #1 with splashy colored cars versus ford's indestructible but boring model T.</p>

<p>Third factor - you shutter handles 1/250 flash synchro versus 1/60 on a older film camera. That means the shutter moves 4 times faster. 4 times faster = 16 times the wear. Of course the design if different and built to handle it but somewhere something has got to give.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Some good points above</p>

<p>Personally I often don't bring a camera. I am sometimes handed one, my classic response is "I don't know what to do with this". Puzzled looks may get a "it's not my camera". When I do bring a camera I take pictures as is it were an event. Using my DSLR. I shoot raw on a CF card. Any requests for pictures are simply refered to my website "in a week or so" and/or "sorry just not compatible". If I like them, I'll send them an email with the link or to everyone I can who was there. <br>

On my website depending on the case, it may be freely open, or under a password I give out to the group. They can get edited and corrected low res (1000x1000) images.<br>

<br /><br>

Thinking about it: Having cards with my web site and email would be an improvement. </p>

<div></div>

<p>I also am color blind red/green (call pronotope)</p>

<p>At the least I use a gray card to color balance ( I use the credit card sized whibal) theur site explain well how to take a reference picture with the card then adjust a series of images.<br>

When things are little more critical (in the studio) i use the x-rite colorchecker passport as a reference.<br>

Very usefull for portrait is to get the skin color right in his book SKIN, lee varis explains how to ensure natural looking skin by the numbers. I've found it very usefull</p>

<p>Finally, at my photoclub I own know for my black and white work. My personel web site is full of bright colors.<br>

Good Luck</p>

<p>Edmond</p>

<p> </p>

<blockquote>

<p>What I still don't get is that if Nikon only sells cameras to Authorised Dealers, how come 'someone' can offer to sell me an un-opened D3X for considerably less than I can buy it from an Authorised Dealer? How did he get it so cheap in the first place and with his mark up too?</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>There are 2 basic reasons.<br>

First, <strong>different market have different local costs</strong>. For example: US, Hong Kong vs Sri Lanka. In the US warranty is high (usually 5 years on lenses) distances are great, representatives are expensive and there is the cost of maintaining local service sites because clients want that. Hong Kong is cheaper. Lower salaries , minimal warranty (for the chinese this is not so important), and they send their cameras offshore for repair. Sri lanka prices is higher because the market is very small (lack of volume causes fixed cost to be spread on less units.<br>

Second, <strong>Pricing variation versus exchange rate variation</strong>. Pricing is varies slower than exchange rate. If you price your product at 1299 to your dealers in the us you will stick by that price for a while (dealer want to know how much they will pay and need to update their databases every time you make a price change,) so you keep the same price for a while often 1 year. If the exchange rate for yen to USD changes to becomes more favorable. Some guy out there can get the product in japan at a better price.<br>

As a practical example I bought a Manfrotto tripod in while in Korea at 30% less than Canada. The Korea won's tanked and the Canadian dollar soared. Local prices did not change as fast so I could get my tripod for a lot less of my Canadian dollars.<br>

Grey market people exploit these difference. <br>

Nikon USA gets a cut when the import the stuff and offer a 5 year warranty (on lenses). For grey market imports someone else got a cut to offer warranty (in HK cost for 1 year of warranty to the HK distributor).<br>

When you buy an item you get the warranty that's in the box. If it came from HK and has a HK warranty certificate and you have trouble. Sent it back to HK for your 1 year warranty. </p>

<p>ref <a href="http://en.nikon.com.hk/pagearticle.php?pageid=61-0b3edb1ee8">http://en.nikon.com.hk/pagearticle.php?pageid=61-0b3edb1ee8</a></p>

<blockquote></blockquote>

<p>Dave said:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I like the price of the old 24-120mm f3.5-5.6 $699. New one is $1299! Is it really <strong>that much better???</strong></p>

</blockquote>

<p>With AF-S, VR and a constant f4, yes it's that much better. 24-120 is mostly a f5.6 lens</p>

<p>Guys</p>

<p>Thanks for the input I would not have thought of it<br>

now... I have a find a grandma who can spare a few wooden clothes pins. lol</p>

<p>I have the Elinchrom 18cm reflector with grids. The kit came a gel filter holder.<br />it's just the ring of a grid without the honeycomb and fits at the same place as the grids.<br /><br /><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.elinchrom.com/products.php?p_id=157#content">www.elinchrom.com/products.php?p_id=157#content</a><br /><br />How is this supposed to work? Are we expected to cut the gels into a round shape and fit behind the ring. Or should we tape it to the front of the ring. Even elinchrom brand gels, sold to work with this, are square.<br /><br />I could figure something out, but would like to know how this ring is supposed to be useful and benefit from people's practical experience. <br /><br />thanks a bunch</p>

<p>Self portraits are not new just more common. Quite frankly as model your self is always available. The convenience is just much to let go.<br>

I have a friend who, to improve his photography, decide to make one portrait a week for a year. As an amateur, the only available model, is himself. He does (about every other month) find a models. but he is now at 51/52 weeks of self portraits.<br>

For Another friend, most of his stuff is done between the kids bedtime and his. Most nights don't work out and, those that do, are not easy to foresee. So scheduling a model is very tough. What does he do? self portraits</p>

<p>So for many amateurs, the self portrait is a very useful way to increase your photography.</p>

<p>When in person, saying thanks is short quick and inexpensive (very little time)<br>

To respond to an email and say thanks takes more time, gives the recipient one more email to manage (thus it's more time)<br>

Everytime I get something I tend to be very polite but in the email world sending a reply with just thanks is often just a bother for the person getting thanked. It's the nature of the communication medium. Many people have been taught that in email world you reply only when really relevant.<br>

If you want a reply, say so. along the lines of "If you appreciated this please let me know"<br>

But don't make a fuss our society is also changing and becoming less formal. Life happens, so just get on with it.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>The cost of Full frame cameras will remains higher for many years to come.</p>

<p>The drop in prices one sees in electronics is mainly due to putting stuff on smaller and smaller chips. (or more stuff on the same chip eliminating chips). In manufacturing, the cost of 1 die is about the same as before. But if that 1 die gives 4 times more chips the cost per chip goes down.<br>

In the case of cameras the underlying format defines the size of the chip. The die being the same a chip with twice the area is going to cost at least 2 as much.<br>

Actually because the bigger chip has more edge loss on the die and a higher the probability that the chip will have a defect this causes actual cost to be roughly 4x more on a FF than a APS-C. The sensor is an important part of the cost of the camera.</p>

<p>The processor side of cameras will improve greatly. But the sensor, though improvement are expected will not happen nearly as fast. FF and APS-C are going to be around for probably 10 years.</p>

<p>Try 3M scotch brite microfiber cleaning rags. They can by found in most supermarket.</p>

 

<p>It's difficult to separate the actual eye versus the eye-brain. Your eye fonctions in many ways like a digital sensor that sends pulse to the brain for processing. The images we see, only exist inside our mind.</p>

<p>To answer your question. I would say yes. Using the following experiment. I am sitting by an window. looking outside at the early morning scene. I can clearly see the bright sky and at the same time with my periferal vision, I can see the stack of books in the shadow beside the window. If I hold up my camera and take a picture so the outside scene is properly exposed, the stack of books is in the dark. The effect is clearly visible when comparing the view in the viewfinder and the image on the LCD.</p>

<p>camadapter hand strap.</p>

<p>Ben Goran wrote:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>You keep chanting that it’s only suited for <strong>low-contrast scenes</strong> , but what you’ve failed to convince me of is that I’ll ever come across such a mythical beastie</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I see them regularly. But I don't necessarily go out taking picture on sunny days either. I am dependent on the weekend's weather. So depending on what you shoot, ETTR may or may not be useful to you. For me it is.</p>

 

<p>The entire article is based on the premise that smaller is, of course, better and it will win. It evens ends with OM-1 in 1972.<br>

I fell safe in saying Canon and Nikon always outsold Olympus by a wide margin. They had the pro stuff and the wannabes wanted to emulate them.<br>

Small size can be an advantage but it's not universal. As long as men have testosterone. We will want a "pro one"and bigger cameras will sell.<br>

Seriously, for advanced amateurs and wannabees, i believe small size is not that important.<br>

P.S. I have owned 4 OM-1s and OM2s through the years. I now shoot with a Nikon D300 because, among other things, I like it's weight in my hand.</p>

<p> </p>

<blockquote>

<p>The very best version, though, is the cover by Dianne Krall</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Don't you mean Diana Krall</p>

<p>Lots of stuff about memory , processor, graphics cards and other points. In these matters most laptops do the job as long as their is enough memory. There's not that much difference.</p>

<p>By far the most important point for photo editing is the <strong>quality of the screen</strong> . I am talking about gamut. Not number of pixels nor graphics card. You are into <strong>Photo</strong> editing, you need a good screen. Most laptops have mediocre screens. The apple pro have a better screen. Others I don't know. In this matter specs are useless and casual store inspection is no better. No laptop comes close to a good screen such as a NEC series 90, apple display and others. Save your money get a less expensive model and get a good screen. Then calibrate it. You'll save yourself a ton a grief and lost time.</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>I have read that for whole body shots, the camera should be held near the model's waist level; shots from the calf upwards from the model's breast level; and head/shoulder shots should be at the model's eye level. Is this guideline correct?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Just keep the camera level when framing the picture and you've got it.</p>

<p>After mastering that, try other camera angles (up or down) to see what it does. Usually, a small angle is not good. A big one can give nice effects.</p>