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mark_hodos

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Posts posted by mark_hodos

    R8 Motor Drive Battery Questions

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <p>Hi<br>

    I got an R8 recently and it's my favorite SLR by fart. So, I got a motor drive off from KEH yesterday to replace/supplement my flawlessly working motor winder (perhaps I'm tempting fate?).<br /><br />The motor drive came with 2 batteries, the drive, and the charger, and a UK power cord/plug (I'm in NYC). I put the UK plug in a travel converter I have and it seems to work (then again, what do I know). Just saying this in the interest of full disclosure.<br /><br />I can't for the life of me find a motor drive charger instruction manual anywhere. I read somewhere that you are supposed to push the little red button to get it to discharge, then .... what? If someone could list out the actual sequence, that would be great. Or point me to a PDF of the instruction manual; that would be even better!<br /><br />So, one of the batteries, when put into the charger, starts the blinking red light going immediately, pushing the little red button does nothing.... and after all night (10 hours), is still blinking. it had 2 LEDs lit at one point, but now it just has one. It measures 11.23V from terminal 2 to 4 (terminals numbered top to bottom the way the battery would be oriented in the battery slot in the drive. It aslo measures full on the display on the back of the R8 and seems to crank away at Ch mode and whatnot.<br /><br />The other battery looks much newer, LED didn't light at all when I pressed the button on the battery. So, I put it into the charger, and it started the red light immediately blinking (without me pushing the red button, though I then did push it for good measure, but no effect). After about 10 seconds, the red light went solid, then after 10 minutes the red light went off and the green light came on. 1 LED showing when I push the button on the battery. Full charge showing when I put it into the motor drive, and the drive seems to fire fine on Ch. Measures 10.99V from 2 to 4.<br /><br />Haven't put film in yet, but I imagine if I did it would work; mechanics seem to be fine.<br /><br />So, what is going on? If nothing else, can someone tell me how the charge sequence SHOULD work?<br>

    If I need to have someone rebuild these packs, who do I contact?<br /><br />The worst part about all of this is that the ergonomics with the motor drive are so much better... if they weren't, I would just be happy with the motor winder and 2 cr123a batteries which seem to last FOREVER and are easily replaceable. Oh well.</p>

    RB 67 pros s - simple metering question

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>Use your DSLR, f/3.5 or f/4.0 is plenty close enough IMO. Most modern meters are missing the non-standard f/stops as well. If you are shooting slide film, you have to be more careful as you have less dynamic range than negative film, but for starting out, I wouldn't worry even about that. </p>

    <p>Even better: shoot some film, experiment by doing some bracketing, take notes, get the film developed, and check out the results!</p>

    <p>If you really want to learn more after your experiments, get a copy of "The Camera" and "The Negative" by Ansel Adams (Amazon has the paperback versions for like $16 each) -- this way, you will learn the zone system and you can start to take control of things.</p>

    <p>While you are waiting for the books to arrive ;), my advice is just go and run a roll of film through it and see what happens.</p>

    Vuescan won't save a 16-bit B&W File

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    <p>Hi Mendel and Godfrey,</p>

    <p>So, I do get 16 bit in Photoshop when I save as TIFF (non-raw). However, Godfrey I think you solved it! I went into workflow options in Camera Raw and saw it listed as 8 bit there. I changed it to 16-bit and it opened at 16-bit. It also stopped opening inverted -- before, I would have to command-i to get it back to positive. Thank you!</p>

    <p>Now, I have to ask -- should it be a Raw or a "TIFF DNG Format" TIFF? Or in reality, what am I losing with TIFF vs RAW? I am very new to this (obviously), and I want to be able to pull my scans into photoshop and mess with curves/levels/whatever to get it ready for printing/web.</p>

    <p>Thanks again!</p>

    <p> </p>

    Vuescan won't save a 16-bit B&W File

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    <p>Thanks for all of the responses!</p>

    <p>Godfrey, I am exporting to RAW because that way Vuescan embeds the metadata from the scan, and I also feel like I have the most unmolested scan possible that I can then open in Photoshop. I will try 16bit B&W TIFF and report back.</p>

    <p>Stephane, I am actaully creating .dng files in raw mode. But, yes, I've double checked and made sure that I'm exporting raw.</p>

    <p>Dan, thanks for helping me out and giving it a shot.</p>

    <p>Well, I'll try a TIFF and report back.</p>

    Vuescan won't save a 16-bit B&W File

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    <p>Hi,</p>

    <p>I've been fighting with Vuescan all day, and my problem is that I can't get it to save a 16-bit scan in the black and white mode. I have Vuescan professional. I have Vuescan 8.6.20 (the latest version -- 8.5.3 had the same issue, but an upgrade didn't fix it. I'm using a Nikon 9000.</p>

    <p>I have:</p>

    <p>Input|Bits per pixel = 16 bit Gray<br>

    Output|Raw file type = 16 bit Gray</p>

    <p>I have also tried 48 bit RGB on both of those options, but it still shows up in 8 bit in Photoshop -- the top of the frame in Photoshop says (Gray/8) or (RGB/8) rather than (Gray/16).</p>

    <p>Nikonscan scans in 16 bit just fine. How do I get a 16-bit scan from Vuescan?</p>

    <p>Thanks for any help!</p>

    <p> </p>

    What did I do??

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>Hi Richard,</p>

    <p>I live in NYC and I have an RB67. As people have said, it's simple to figure out once you get the hang of it. It was my first film camera, let alone medium format. Google for a manual, it doesn't matter if you find pro-sd, pro-s, they all work very similarly.</p>

    <p>The most important thing is to cock the shutter (if it isn't already cocked) before putting the lens on the body, and cock the shutter before taking the lens off the body. That should help you avoid jams.</p>

    <p>A good place to go might be Lens and Repro in NYC. They are very nice and may be able to help you. Also, the Used Equipment counter at B&H probably has someone who knows how to show you how to do things. Adorama is hit and miss, depending on if the guy knows or just "thinks" he knows. Calumet also has knowleadgeable people who may help; just buy a roll of 120 film from them, then say "by the way, can you help me load it"; I'm sure they will help. Calumet is open on Saturday too.</p>

    <p>To load film, you have to kind of take the middle piece out of the outer hinged shell of the film holder, get the film in and around the rollers, advance it till you see the vertical dark black double sided arrow, then put the sheel back around it and lock it down. Then, advance it until it stops and a "1" shows in the window. Much easier done than said.</p>

    <p>The best way to check if everything is ok is to run a roll of film through it and develop. If there are no light leak streaks or fogging, and the exposures look ok, then it's probably ok.</p>

    <p>As to advice for first days of shooting, shoot a few shots handheld as well as tripod, practice shooting mirror-up (it's in the manual), and just try everything. Once you figure it out, it's extremely logical and has all kinds of mechanical safety mechanisms to keep you from accidentally ruining a shot. And even if you do, just get another roll, it's only a few bucks.</p>

    <p>Good luck and have fun!</p>

    Mamiya RB67 Pro-SD back with a RB67 Pro-S Body?

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>Hi Markus!</p>

    <p>No problem. The backs are almost exactly the same; they are just shaped slightly different on the outside (which is probably why inserts aren't interchangeable). Pro-S ones can be cheaper.</p>

    <p>I understand the want to get a mint condition one to match your camera, but it sounds like you have no back right now... just get whatever they have and start shooting (you will find a pristine one sooner or later); you are going to want more than one back anyhow eventually -- those 10 shots go pretty quick when you are out and about, and if you go from outside to inside, for instance, you can switch from ISO 100 to ISO 800 film mid-roll, which is what is really nice about multiple backs; you don't have to waste those extra shots just to get the next roll of film in there.</p>

    <p>By the way, if you don't have a back right now or back body cap, make sure you are covering the opening on the back of the body itself so no dust gets in while you are waiting for the back to arrive.</p>

    <p>Good luck!</p>

    Lighting for 4x5

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>Hi Bruce!</p>

    <p>I always enjoy reading your responses over on the large format forum.</p>

    <p>Thanks for the response. When I rented them, I was shooting a Capoeira roda (people doing Brazilian martial arts involving a lot of jumping around quickly), and I was using a Nikon D50 at f/8 with good results, but I had 3x 500s + a 1000, but the 1000 was a bit too powerful in combination with the others, IIRC. Anyhow, being that the D50's DX sensor is so much smaller than 4x5 (and D50 is ISO 200), I was feeling a bit unsure, as I'm nowhere near a pro -- doing this for fun, and I thought film would be cheaper than digital, oops :)</p>

    <p>I will check out Visatecs as well. Thanks for the lead. They look very nice, but more expensive for similar power -- I assume that Hensel watt/seconds are relatively equivalent to Visatec watt/seconds, though maybe that's a bad assumption. Hensel kit is $1245 with tax... The radio trigger version is much more expensive, but i already have two pocket wizard plus II's, and I can't afford $2k+ anyhow right now.</p>

    <p>I appreciate what you are saying about buying used.... I'd almost eat up the difference in new flash tubes and lamps should it need those right away. grrrrr...</p>

    <p>:)</p>

    <p>Thanks!<br>

    -Mark</p>

    Lighting for 4x5

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>Hi,</p>

    <p>I'm looking at getting some monolights for doing portraits (head/shoulders + full length) with my 4x5, using 4x5 film. My Vivitar 285HV just doesn't cut it, and it just died anyhow last week, so now's the time, I guess.</p>

    <p>I have rented Hensel monolights in the past, and I thought they were great. I am currently looking at the kit from B&H where I can get 2 x 500 w/s Hensel Integra monolights, as well as umbrellas, stands, and they throw in a softbox (not very big at 17x24, but hey, it's a start).</p>

    <p>I have 3 questions:</p>

    <p>1) Is this enough light for my application? I like the shallow DOF portraits, and hopefully I will be able to gain more effective DOF by keeping the lens open and using movements (depending on a lot of other factors I'm sure...), but of course don't want to do that all the time. It would be nice to really stop down and get some nice DOF everywhere... I would also consider getting these now and maybe adding more power later. Unless I'm totally missing something, I feel like I don't have enough money for a power pack setup of the same quality.</p>

    <p>2) I could get the same kit used for about $350 less than new + tax from B&H. How do you experienced people feel about buying used lights? Other than the flashtubes and modeling lights, does anything else wear out? What should I look for in the used ones (other than whether or not they work)? Or is it not worth getting used ones at all, and I should pay the extra $350 for brand new with warranty? The used ones look not very used, but who really knows.</p>

    <p>3) Would people recommend the Hensels as good quality monolights? To get 2 similar powered Elinchroms with all the trappings, it looks to be above my budget (these lights new are barely above my budget, but I could get away with it if I could justify it).</p>

    <p>I searched the forums and I hope I am not asking duplicate questions.</p>

    <p>Thank you!</p>

    <p>-Mark</p>

    Light leak on RB67 when using 105mm lens

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>Have you tried it with a film back with both lenses? If it still happens only with the 150, I guess that would point to the lens (or how it's mounted) as the problem.</p>

    <p>Alternately, could it be in the bellows, and for some reason, you don't extend the bellows as far out when you have the 90mm on? To see a bellows leak, you would do something similar to what you would do with a large format camera: rack the bellows all the way out (with the lens on but shutter closed). Go into a darkroom (or the bathroom w/ the lights off). Take the back off, and with the mirror up. stick a flashlight in the back wrapped in a towel so no light escapes, and look for light leaking through the bellows, body, or lens mount.</p>

    <p>Good luck!</p>

    <p>-Mark</p>

     

    9x12 Linhof holders

    in Large Format

    Posted

    <p>Bob,</p>

    <p>Thanks for all the information! So I have a plate holder no less :)</p>

    <p>I assume nobody makes glass plates in 9x12 anymore?</p>

    <p>My best bet is to look for a 4x5 holder and send these back.</p>

    <p>Thank you again!</p>

    <p>-Mark</p>

    9x12 Linhof holders

    in Large Format

    Posted

    <p>If anyone can chime in as to whether Linhof makes (made) 4x5 filmholders (that actually take 4x5 film), let me know -- I'm a little gun shy at this point of these holders even if they *are* advertised as 4x5 :)</p>

    <p>I think the design of these Linhof holders aught to hold the film much flatter than the Lisco and Fidelity holders...?</p>

    9x12 Linhof holders

    in Large Format

    Posted

    <p>Thanks John.... doesn't sound good :( I would be mainly interested in B&W, so looks like it's expensive shipping from Europe or one type of film from Freestyle (Efke 100):</p>

    <p>http://www.freestylephoto.biz/191191-Fotokemika-Efke-PL-100-M-iso-100-9x12-cm-50-sheets</p>

    <p>I just searched, and I can see it's also in 4x5 at B&H, so it's not like I'm missing anything by *not* going with the 9x12, that's for sure...</p>

    <p>Thanks for your help!</p>

    <p>-Mark</p>

    9x12 Linhof holders

    in Large Format

    Posted

    <p>Hi</p>

    <p>I recently purchased two 9x12 film holders on the auction site, after asking the seller first if they would fit 4x5 sheet film. I was assured that yes they would fit 4x5. They arrived today, and as it turns out, 4x5 sheet film is too big, and there's no way it would fit. How very annoying. I'm not that great with scissors and a ruler in a changing bag, so I'm wondering what to do with them...</p>

    <p>The Linhof holder looks very inventive, though, with the lever letting you know if it's loaded, the pressure plate, etc.</p>

    <p>I am in NYC, hence in the USA, hence not in Germany where I read that 9x12 is more common.</p>

    <p>1) Is there any way to get 9x12 film here in the USA? Economically? B&H doesn't have it; I did a google search and didn't find much, unfortunately...</p>

    <p>2) Is it generally economical? With film getting more and more scarce, is it smart to even get into 9x12? I'm scanning and not printing yet, but I imagine if I do print (eventually, probably a few years off), I'm going to need special negative holders and so forth? Are they easy to find?</p>

    <p>2) Or should I just ask for a refund and send these holders back?</p>

    <p>3) Since 9x12 is so rare and the holders were misrepresented by the seller, if I do keep them, I am going to ask for a significant discount. How much are 2 Linhof 9x12 holders worth? I imagine less than something that fits 4x5? They are a bit dusty, but were advertised as new old stock, which I guess I could believe as they look to be in very good condition with no scratches or pen/pencil marks, etc, and they come in the original boxes (boxes have rubbed corners and so forth but look to be in good shape)</p>

    <p>4) Does Linhof make (or did they ever make) real USA size 4x5 film holders with the lever and pressure plate?</p>

    <p>thanks for any help!</p>

    <p>-Mark</p>

    <p> </p>

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