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edchambers

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Posts posted by edchambers

  1. <p>My answer has not changed other than to say over time I have: EVEN MORE come to appreciate the Love and Respect I have for the 14-24 2.8. Time heals all wounds, and wounds all heels - Time also develops deep relationships and experiences. I rely on the 14-24 for the specific tasks it was designed to accomplish. Simply: know your equipment, and know its limitations and talents. Both embrace and appreciate the gear head aspects of equipment, and apply the artistic field experience of random experimentation and meandering luck within your photo journey, that one may learn ONLY BY talented USE IN THE FIELD: not just sitting in a chair in front of a computer rendering sterile defacto black and white engineering opinions rationalizing any answer you wish to defend or proffer. Most discovers happen not because of just planing; however by random experimentation using various tools and circumstances along a journey, that illicit a random serendipity that causes an occasional response of: hmmm How did that happen, or what the heck just happened, that leed top a . . . wow moment. I am Happy I have the 14-24 in my bag even when I think I would not need it, nor would I expect to need it that day. In fact on occasion I had it when I thought I would never use it, and guess what? Creativity Happened! My .02</p>
  2. <p>Have you considering dragging the shutter?<br /> Set Camera to M Manual<br />Wide aperture <br>

    Camera ramped up to a high ISO D90: say 800 or 1600<br>

    Use the Flash and<br /> Compensate using your meter.<br /> The flash will give a good captured impression, and as the shutter speed is varied, will allow for more light to capture a background and movement.</p>

  3. <p>Chris, I shoot from a helicopter all the time. Most used lens is 24-70 on a D700 and a D300S for a closer cropped shot with the 70-200. Use the highest ISO you feel comfortable with - HIGHEST shutter speed is your friend. You are far enough away from your subject, that depth of field will not affect the picture, so go as wide open as you prefer. At High noon good sun - with the 24-70 I use 800 ISO, and aperture priority at F4. Set for CL high and if you can get the battery pack for a faster shutter speed. Focus either manual on infinity so as to prevent focus hunt, of AF continuous whatever you prefer depending on what and how you are shooting.<br /> <br /> Another thing - 32 GIG cards are good to use, as you do not want to be changing CF cards in the air. The less changing the better. Get some good crowd shots, and be aware of your horizon so it is present and as straight as possible. Also some portrait perspective shots are good as well for potential use in advertisements. Think in advance of your goal(s) and act accordingly. I also shoot JPG and raw at the same time. You may be surprised at what you see - this does not hinder the write time to the cards for my purposes. I looked up your helicopter and it appears to be a 6 seat craft. 60 feet is extremely low. Are you going up with a video crew as well? If so and you are competing with camera angles with video, a conversation regarding priority and positioning in advance. Get there early. The pilot is your friend. :-) Also - If possible - go to the area first, or look up on Google MAP and LOOK at the area. Be as familiar as possible with your goals as possible. Take a group shot of the AIR TEAM as these shots are good for a sense of place. If you can borrow a GPS unit these are cool for Geo Mapping. Preparation manages your expectations.</p>

    <p>Lastly, when possible compose photo with a reference to where you are, a river bank, the crowd, landmark with logo, signs, etc gives you a sense of place, as opposed to a close up of the boat you could get from a building. . . and<br /> <br /> HAVE FUN! Let us know how it went. I hope this helps you.<br />Here are some pictures to show you some frames of reference:<br /><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/107394290834846766674?gsessionid=WZ26IKbU3tDhypVOIUSNEA">https://picasaweb.google.com/107394290834846766674?gsessionid=WZ26IKbU3tDhypVOIUSNEA</a></p>

  4. <p>I would be interested in what cost Nikon gives you, as I have a dropped D700 and a crack similar to yours; however right by the screw by the MENU button. I also broke in half a 24-70. D700 works like a champ - put Duck tape on to cover to protect from rain - lens is packed up ready to get an estimate.</p>
  5. <p>I am going to go with both Craig and Elliot. I use both a D700 FULL FRAME and, a D300s CROP SENSOR as a back up and an essential 1.5 teleconverter. If I need more reach, I use a 1.7 teleconverter. Have you considered these options? This way you get to keep your glass and have plan A B and C options with zoom choices and options depending on your circumstance du jour. Happy Shooting! :-) I hope this helps.</p>
  6. <p>Ben,<br /> Thanks for asking this question . . . I went back and enjoyed looking at these to present to you . . .<br /><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/BlueridgePhotoWorkshops/08NOV08AsseteagueBEST">https://picasaweb.google.com/BlueridgePhotoWorkshops/08NOV08AsseteagueBEST#</a><br /> One of my favorite Photos from this location:<br /><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/BlueridgePhotoWorkshops/AsseteagueGeneralEdChambers08NOV08#5269438156039282466">https://picasaweb.google.com/BlueridgePhotoWorkshops/AsseteagueGeneralEdChambers08NOV08#5269438156039282466</a> <br /> This is Sun Up right past the Toll Gate Entrance well before you get to the beach. At that hour there is no one to take the fee, so you may buy a Park Pass during regular hours. Depending on how long your stay is I believe you may purchase a week long pass. At the this location there is plenty of room for cars to pull off from the main road and prepare. Get there at least an hour before dawn, and you may be amazed at the combination of the sun, clouds, seika deer crossing the water bogs,<br /><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/BlueridgePhotoWorkshops/AsseteagueGeneralEdChambers08NOV08#5269438419616970738">https://picasaweb.google.com/BlueridgePhotoWorkshops/AsseteagueGeneralEdChambers08NOV08#5269438419616970738</a><br />birds lading, eating, and various flight paths before they start their mid-day feasting.<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/BlueridgePhotoWorkshops/AsseteagueGeneralEdChambers08NOV08#5269438025345781330">https://picasaweb.google.com/BlueridgePhotoWorkshops/AsseteagueGeneralEdChambers08NOV08#5269438025345781330</a><br /> Then at sun down - go to the other side of the circle bird beltway, :-), and you could get these shots:<br /><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/BlueridgePhotoWorkshops/AsseteagueGeneralEdChambers08NOV08#5269438111960568690">https://picasaweb.google.com/BlueridgePhotoWorkshops/AsseteagueGeneralEdChambers08NOV08#5269438111960568690</a><br /> Here is Sunset on the Marina on the South End of the town.:<br /><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/BlueridgePhotoWorkshops/AsseteagueGeneralEdChambers08NOV08#5269439122522014050">https://picasaweb.google.com/BlueridgePhotoWorkshops/AsseteagueGeneralEdChambers08NOV08#5269439122522014050</a><br /> Have fun!</p>

    <p>ed</p>

    <p>PS There is good food in town. Captains Galley ? Good Cream of Crab and home made desserts!!! :-)<br>

    and while you are there you may desire to go see Wallops Island Museum. They also have a brand new bridge that enters town if you want to inspect the new opportunities that presents itself.</p>

  7. <p> </p>

    <blockquote>

    <p>A direct camera to CPU connection is best. There really is no good reason for using a card reader</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>What? I believe this is contra indicated.</p>

    <blockquote>

    <p>I'm not sure about the reformatting of the card each time. An overwrite should be as good as a write to a freshly formatted card, if the writing process is functioning properly</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>A good habit is to ALWAYS reformat before every use. Especially if you are using several types of cameras. John, your answers are diametrically opposed to what I have been taught. However that being said, I have learned - who cares what the facts are - we all live by our own decisions, and if it works for you, good; however I hope Shun will become the ever guiding light here??? :-)</p>

    <blockquote>

    <p> </p>

    </blockquote>

  8. <p>Saving the NEFS answer ignoring the is it supposed to work answers.<br /> I had this happen once before with my D700 and here is what I did to success.<br /> 1.) Try opening / importing with a Mac. Does not work to save all the pictures? Go to #2.)<br /> 2.) Run restore Program and proceed to #3<br /> <a href="http://kb.sandisk.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/7474/session/L2F2LzEvdGltZS8xMzIxMTA0NjE4L3NpZC8yYUNYUldJaw%3D%3D">http://kb.sandisk.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/7474/session/L2F2LzEvdGltZS8xMzIxMTA0NjE4L3NpZC8yYUNYUldJaw%3D%3D</a><br /> 3.) I found that it evidently was one picture, (The first one with the lines) that was corrupted in the beginning of the series. I deleted that photo and re-attempted, and I saved all the photos after the first one that I deleted.<br>

    I lost one picture . . . (and importing into MAC allowed me to read all but the corrupted file. I wanted to save all of em so I tried restore)<br>

    Success . . . Good Luck! Been there done above. :-)</p>

    <p>PS I have found that every time the time zones are modified - I change the time on the cameras - AND do a FULL cleaning of each CF Card - this gets rid of ALL extraneous files and creates a virgin memory device. I really appreciate this forum to be able to learn, be reminded of past lessons, and to be able to share.</p>

  9. <blockquote>

    <p>whoops! Besides, flash memory has a limited number of write lives, so formatting a card that's only got a few pictures on it probably isn't the best thing to do.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>I believe that is for the old style flash - not the new style . . .<br>

    Its endurance is 10,000 to 1,000,000 erase cycles.<sup >[<em><a title="Wikipedia:Citation needed" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Citation_needed">citation needed</a></em>]</sup> NOR-based flash was the basis of early flash-based removable media; <a title="CompactFlash" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CompactFlash">CompactFlash</a> was originally based on it, though later cards moved to less expensive NAND flash.<br>

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flash_memory</p>

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