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tsuacctnt

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Posts posted by tsuacctnt

  1. <p>I'm going to echo the sentiments of everyone else. It really sounds like a dead battery to me. The camera will still beep at you ever so slowly with a battery that doesn't have enough juice to release the shutter and work the electronics. If you let it rest it may recover enough to fire off a shot or two before ceasing to operate again.</p>
  2. <p>Does anybody else have problems getting a PX28 to stay in their A-1? The AE-1 program has a nice spring loaded nub that makes it easier to change batteries and ensures good contact. My A-1 just has two pins that you're supposed to sort of wedge the battery between. They actually dent the battery so that if you take it out it won't go back in the camera because the pins no longer make contact. I have to put a little bit of tin foil in the battery compartment to fill the tiny gap between the pin and the battery. Obviously my camera is defective in some way, I'm wondering if I could somehow replace the battery chamber in the A-1 with one from an AE-1 program. That would be a huge improvement. </p>
  3. <p>Good choice going with the A-1. Lately I've taken a break from my T-90 and have been shooting my A-1 with an MA Motor Drive. Tons of fun. Over the fourth I was taking some pictures of my girlfriends nephews, they always want to look at the film box tab holder to see their picture afterward and can't understand why there's just a piece of cardboard that says Kodachrome instead of their smiling faces there. Kid's are so used to digital now they have no concept of how a film camera works. Unfortunately mine has the weird battery drain problem so if I don't turn it to 'L' when I'm done shooting it will sap the battery in a day or so. Pretty annoying. I'm considering sending it off somewhere to get fixed or just buying another one and hoping for the best.</p>
  4. <p>I've read the manual about 10 times and haven't made much sense out of it. I think it's just supposed to magically work. The only part that's easy to understand is the zoom head (I especially like the position indicator lights). I wonder if a little bit of a warming gel over the flash would soften up the fill? Or maybe a diffuser of some sort. I just recently got my 300tl to go with my T90 and haven't had a chance to use it in fill flash situations but I'm pretty happy with the bounce results using an ISO 400 film. None of the other canon speedlights I had prior to the 300tl had enough poop to actually use as a bounce flash even with their rotating heads.</p><div>00WeUv-251105684.jpg.d0e5c9d8a6ed452e7d0782c6d0a55c5f.jpg</div>
  5. <p>I must have glossed over that section of the AE-1 Program manual. I'm going to have to go home and check out this stopped-down "match needle" metering mode. Very cool. Always fun to learn something new about my toys... I mean tools.</p>
  6. <p>I wouldn't give up on digital for wedding work. Focus issues aside, high ISO performance on modern digital cameras is a lifesaver and most clients ultimately expect a digital deliverable. I love my FD gear, but would never use it in place of a modern DSLR when I have to quickly turn around a quality product and want to minimize costs. I also endorse the T90 for an FD body. A great piece of kit.</p>
  7. <p>A replacement T-70 can be had pretty cheap, but if you can find a good working T-90 and are willing to pay a little more for it I'd personally go that route. I'm not sure how you identify T-90s without the shutter problem, I must have gotten lucky with mine because I don't use it that often but it always works for me (No EEEEE-Help). The T-90 feels a lot better in hand and is much better laid out than the T-70 in my opinion. A little bigger and heavier but a swell camera nonetheless.</p>
  8. <p>From all the old Canon FD camera's I've bought, meter accuracy has never been a problem. They've all been good enough for print film at least. Light leaks are pretty common though as the foam seals disintigrate over the course of 20 years. Same for the mirror bumper. 50mm f1.4 is a good lens to start with. I think you have to have at least one normal lens in your kit and as earlier posters pointed out the large aperture will let you achieve a really shallow depth of field and shoot in in fairly dim light. A-1 is a fun camera to shoot and does what it needs to do. My only complaint about the camera, and maybe this is only a problem with two A-1's that I've had, is that if you don't turn the camera 'off' when you're not using it it will drain out the battery. </p>
  9. <p>Find a friend who will let you use their body for backup. Buy a backup battery or two. If you start popping off lots of photos using that built in flash you might be surprised to find your battery doesn't last you through the preparation, ceremony, & reception. I use my 50mm f1.4 quite a bit as a portrait lens / low light lens, but I think you'll miss the wider focal lengths. Maybe that extra body you borrow will be a Nikon and have a 18-55 kit lens attached to it that you can throw onto your camera. </p>
  10. <p>I sent another handful of film in my shoebox o' film of to Dwaynes for finishing. Can't say they were taken in March, some may be several years old, but at least they were developed in march. One of the problems of being a bit of a collector is after so long I can't remember which bodies I shot most of these on. I should mark my film.</p><div>00W8a1-233655584.jpg.eac23646d60650f0d663b239b0b3c3c5.jpg</div>
  11. <p>Thanks for all the great responses. I'll check the lens with a flashlight for internal fogging and try shooting without the UV filter and pick up one of the hoods mentioned. This picture was snapped early in the morning. I suppose it could be something as simple as condensation between the filter and the lens but I seem to have this problem off and on in a variety of conditions. </p>
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