radicalgel

<p>Andy is spot on. Thank you for the explanation. Looks like the camera creates a low quality JPG preview of the RAW. This issue is absent when shooting JPG fine since you are viewing the actual, high quality image in this case. Thank you the help guys. Happy shooting. </p>

<p>I'm noticing some patchiness in the blacks when I view images at 100% on the screen on the D750. I see a similar problem when previewing the image in the library module of Lightroom. However, the moment I go into the develop module the problem disappears and I have a perfect image. I'm shooting in RAW so I'm guessing issue is with the way the lower res JPEG previews are being compressed and rendered. Can anyone else confirm if they have this issue? I've attached and image of this problem. You can clearly see the pixellation zoomed in at 100% on a black region of the image.<br>

<br>

<img src="http://4.static.img-dpreview.com/files/p/TS560x560~forums/55419544/84c3fb44cb6e43f1b5e6ff30ae06c108" alt="" width="560" height="418" /></p>

<p>I'm just trying to figure out how to get a hi key, pure white background shot, but also have hard, defined shadows. I have attached a reference image and would love to get some suggestions on the lighting setup to achieve these results. My guess is, have the subject fairly close to the white seamless, have one hard light (Large reflector no diffusion) a fair distance away, above and pointing down at the subject. This will give me the defined shadows. I can then use 2 symmetrically placed, large diffused lights to fill in the shadows to taste and blow out the background. What would you guys do? <br>

</p>

<p>Hey,</p>

<p>I need to order a lee foundation today and I realised thats it's a lot cheaper to buy the 82mm wide angle adaptor and use step up rings to get it to sit on my other lenses. My question is, if I use a 77 - 82 step up on my Tokina 11 - 16 then mount the Lee 82 wide angle adaptor will I get bad vignetting? I know this is a non issue with longer lenses but it could be and issue at 11mm (~16mm on FX). If vignetting is not an issue then I save over $50. Any help would be awesome.. </p>

<p>Hey guys,</p>

<p>Thank you for the responses. I actually went into the store today and tried both the roadtrip and the globetrotter and ended up buying the latter. It is a tad heavier and bulkier but it was rock solid with my D300s and Tokin 11-16 even at full height. The features far surpassed the befree's and I got it at a great price so I'm really happy. The roadtrip is great but after using the globetrotter I knew that was it. </p>

<p>Hey,</p>

<p>I've narrowed down on these two models and I can't decide which to go with. Here are my list of pro's for each:</p>

<p>Manfrotto Befree:<br>

- 0.6lb lighter. <br>

- Flip lock for legs as opposed to twist.<br>

- Love the quick release plate. Much simpler than the Mefoto and feels more secure.<br>

- I know and trust the brand, used several of their products without and issues for years now.<br>

- Cheaper. Yes, here in India the befree is cheaper than the roadtrip. </p>

<p>Mefoto Roadtrip:<br>

- Takes more load, but with how I travel, I doubt ill exceed the 8.8lbs that the befree offers<br>

- Built in monopod<br>

- Drag and pan controls<br>

- Slightly higher max height but I'd definitely avoid using either all full height.</p>

<p>So which one would you guys pick? I'm travelling in a couple of days and any quick inputs to help me make my decision would be invaluable.</p>

<p>Thank you so much guys. Will try this out once I'm in the studio. @Charles the 1390 is a dye based ink jet, so will it have these settings too?</p>

<p>I have an Epson Photo Stylus 1390 and it works really well with epson paper and plain bond paper. I happen to have so really nice, lightly textured natural evolution paper but I can't seem to get it to print properly on this. Too much ink is laid down and the prints come out wet and smudged. Is there anyway around this or is my printer just not capable of printing on this paper. I have the same problem with some glossy and matte sheets that I bought from a local print store. It's hard to believe that this printer will only print on epson paper. I must be doing something wrong. I hope! :) </p>

<p>Ok so I did some more tests and AF finetune on +10 is given me considerably sharper images. I am doing these tests with the aperture wide open as it reveals problems better. I am wondering if I should get it replaced as it's still under warranty?</p>

<p>Thanks for the response but it's not the limiter. Tried with it on full and limit and I have the same issue. Subject distance doesn't really affect this behaviour.</p>

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>I use my Tokina 100mm Macro ATX-Pro 2.8 with a Nikon D300s and I'm having this weird issue with autofocus. Basically, if I select the center AF point on my camera the lens back focuses a little, resulting in blurry images. If I however, move my focus point to the right or left ,then focus is spot on and the images are tack sharp. This is really weird. I thought the center AF point is the strongest, but that's the one thats giving me this issue. I know it's not the camera as my Nikkor 50mm 1.8G and 70 - 300 VR work fine. So is my lens faulty or am I doing something wrong?</p>

<p>I really need some help with this. I recently got the i1Display Pro and I feel like I've wasted a lot of money. So here's my problem. I have a MacBook Pro 6,2 i7 with the high res antiglare LED backlit screen. My second & main monitor is the DELL U2311h CCFL IPS display which is connected to my mbp with the MiniDisplay to DVI connector. Now I have tried calibrating both screens and my problems are as follows:<br>

1) When I use D65 white point, both screen turn out to have a heavy yellowish-brown tint. Native & D75 give me much more neutral calibration on both screens. Is this normal?<br>

2) I cannot seem to match the 2 screens. The MBP always seems a little yellow tinted and the DELL always a little green tinted. The magentas and oranges are more saturated on the DELL. Which one is correct?<br>

3) I read somewhere that I should just calibrate my main monitor and not worry about matching the MBP screen to it. Is this true?<br>

4) Is there a particular procedure that I can follow to get good results?<br>

I really hope someone here can guide me on what the best settings are in i1Profiler for the DELL and how I should go about using the i1Display Pro to get the best results. Also, how do I know if I have achieved an accurate profile, without having to rely on my eyes to judge. I would be really grateful to anyone who could help me justify this purchase. <br>

PS: I also have a very n00b question. I have an Epson 1390 and I just want to know, if I take print of a photo with a certain monitor profile assigned and I then change the monitor and print the same photo without making any changes to, will the prints look different? In short, does the monitor profile after a print directly?</p>

 

<p>Thanks so much Sarah, I will try that. Still learning a lot about the print process. My concerned however is more about the green cast in my colour images. I read in a couple of places that the Espon 1400/1390 Claria inks are very prone to colour shifting in different lighting. My studio has all fluorescent lights so I guess that's the reason im seeing a considerable spike in the green channel. I heard there are some good CISS/Bulk Ink systems that can both save me a lot of money and give me better prints. Could someone here help me with some suggestions as to what CISS I should go for? I live in India so I'll probably need to order from the US or UK I guess. </p>

<p>Could someone also tell me if Epson 1400, 1410 & 1390 have cross compatible cartridges. I am planning to buy a CISS so I need to know whether a system for an Epson 1400 will work with the Epson 1390. AFAIK the 1400/1410/1390 are all the same but just named differently in different parts of the world. Pleas correct me if I'm wrong!</p>

<p>Cool! Thanks so much. Now I just have to hope that someone here can help with QTR and Lion OSX!</p>

<p>Thanks Peter,<br>

1) Regarding QuadtoneRIP I meant profiles not driver sorry. I can't find 1390 profiles. If I double click on the claria profile installer it says no Epson 1400 found. I managed to install the 1400 profiles by typing in my ip address but every time I try to print something it loads it then just keeps saying printer busy. I feel it's not able to communicate with my printer as it's not a 1400. I even tried assigning the Epson 1400 driver to my printer but no luck. How do I get around this?<br>

2) Ok so I'm a little confused. So if I now calibrate my monitor using a i1 Display Pro which I have ordered, are you saying all my photo will look greenish then? That would mean my camera is messed up and is producing images with a green cast?<br>

I'm really sorry, I've been shooting a long time but I'm really new to printing so any help would be much appreciated!<br>

-<br>

PS: I using a MacBook Pro running Lion OSX </p>

<p>I just got the Epson 1390 and I'm really happy. Just figuring out how to use it properly. <br>

I have a few doubts:<br>

1) I came across QuadtoneRIP but it only has drivers for the Epson 1400. Is there anyway that I can get it to work with the 1390 as they are essentially the same printer?<br>

2) All my color prints seem to have a slight green cast to them. Is this a calibration problem or is there something wrong with the printer?<br>

3) I have heard several mentions of a bulk ink/CISS for the 1400/1390 and I even came across one on ebay. I would just like suggestions as to which the best bulk ink system is for the 1390? Links would be much appreciated!</p>

<p>Cool thanks Ben, I went with the Epson and I'm really happy. Just figuring out how to use it properly. I also came across QuadtoneRIP but it only has drivers for the Epson 1400. Is there anyway that I can get it to work with the 1390 as they are essentially the same printer?</p>

BUMP!

 

I urgently need to buy. Someone please

help.

<p>Guys I need some quick help. Based on my budget I have narrowed down 3 A3 photo printers and I hope someone here call help me make a decision. <br>

1) Epson Photo 1390<br>

2) Canon ix6560<br>

3) Canon ix7000<br>

I would really like to know pros and cons and why I should pick one of these over the other two. Also, is the ix7000 really worth the $$? I am also open to other suggestions if any of you feel there is a better option for me. <br>

My Requirements:<br>

I run a design & photography firm called <a href="www.agletdesign.com">Aglet Design™</a> and I require a good quality printer for basic prototyping/proofing, say a corporate identity design or a small poster where colours are reproduced fairly accurately. I would also, occasionally be printing my photos (matte) and expect close to professional looking prints. <br>

My Budget:<br>

Should be under INR Rs 25,000/- ~ USD $500/-<br>

Any help would be much appreciated!</p>

Thanks Rodeo

<p>So I just got Elinchrom FX 400 Ri lights and I read that they have what is called a SPEED mode which will allow them to sync upto 1/250th of a sec with my Nikon D300s. Now here's my question, why would I then use 'Standard' mode when 'Speed' mode allows me to sync UP TO 1/250th of a sec. Doesn't this mean I can also use 1/200th or 1/160th shutter speeds to shoot without having to switch modes. Am I way off here? Could someone please explain the difference & the pro/cons of these two available modes and where and when I would ideally use them?</p>

<p>@Dan,<br>

Whoa you seem to have quite a substantial amount of hate towards Elinchrom. I take it you've had bad experiences. Anyway I'm not here to talk about how good or bad elinchrom is. The FX 400 Ri's seem to be very capable lights and I haven't had any issues with them as such. Even this 5secs thing where the mode switches to SPEED seems more like a function than a bug. Can't say for sure but I'm hoping someone here can clarify this for me. Also I live in India and a lot of the Top light brands are either not available or exorbitant. The Elins however, are very reasonable and feature packed. It's almost a no brainer. :)</p>

<p>BUMP! Anyone? I'm sure many people here use the Skyport SPEED transmitter. </p>

<p>Not registered with Elinchrom support yet as the FX 400 Ri's are india only and are not listed in the website. :(<br>

I was hoping someone here who uses the Elinchrom system with the skyport SPEED can try taking a 5s exposure with the skyport mounted on the hot shoe and tell me if it auto switches to 'SPEED' mode. i.e. the green light blinks twice every 4 secs.<br>

Also, can someone tell me if the flash on these new FX400 Ri's can be user replaced.</p>