eb_lim

April 3, 2011

HI JFF

I have the 80-200 F.28 and the 105 DC and also the 85 F1.8. - I have never shot with the 85 F1.4

I agree with Ramon, Ben & Elliot. Keep the 80-200 you need the versitality of this lens.

If I had to choose between the 85 1.8 and the 105 DC, that is simple, I would pick the 105 DC any time, the lens is very sharp and the defocus is awesome like you say. However the 105 DC, for that matter so is the 85 mm, is difficult to use in cramped rooms, I generally use the 105 DC outdoors and it gives beautiful results with floral or fall background colors.

Eb

January 2, 2011

Hi Mr. Wu,

Just my suggestion and I hope I don't offend.

Don't use film equipment, get a good weather proof DSLR (if you are happy with Pentax get Pentax) and some good long glass. At least in the 80-400mm range. And for Africa's vistas, you may also want a good wide angle zoom. Memory cards are cheap and for what you would spend carrying bulky and expensive film and putting the film in leaded X ray proof bags and going through air port security and all that hassle you'd be better off shooting digital. Remember you probably won't be processing your film in Africa and that means possible x ray contamination of the exposed once in a life time images of your first safari when you make your return trip after the safari. I would not take that risk.

None of your present lenses have the range you should be using when shooting wildlife. And you want to be able to focus and shoot fast and MF lenses slow you down, animals are unpredictable you have to be ready when they are there, they do not give you much of a chance at a re-take.

I am not familiar with Pentax equipment as I use Nikon but in my preference if I used a DX DSLR I would use at least the D 300 body (or Pentax equivalent).

I use the D 700 myself and all my lenses are FX (full frame). In dusty locations I would minimize the need to change lenses. Using Nikon the lenses I am familiar with the all purpose lens I would use would be the 28-300VR and longest lens would be the 80-400VR. The wide angle zoom would be my old 20-35 F 2.8 which I like. If weight is a problem the 20-35 will stay home.

Tripods may be OK if you have the room and time to use it on a safari, (personally I won't bring one) a monopod may be a wiser choice.

Hope I helped. Just my 2 cents worth.

Eb

January 2, 2011

Hi Tony

I was thinking of such a trip maybe for 2012 or 2013, whats on your mind? I'm told the Okavongo (Botswana) may be cheaper but was also looking into other possibilities.

Eb

January 2, 2011

Hi Yee,

I agree with Mark, I have used Nikon SLRs since 1972 starting with the Nikkormat FT2, F2, also had the 801, 601, F70, F90, FM2 and finally the F5 and maybe used mirror lock up very rarely, no more than 3 times at most and MLU is not an issue 99.999% of the time. Don't get hung up on MLU.

If you just want to experiment with an older SLR body and dof and a G lens then just buy a reasonably good SLR body, an upscale one like you said I would start with the D/N 90, F4 or F5 that should be enough and these are quite cheap and are very good cameras. The N/F 90 is much lighter.

Except for my FM2 and D90 all my film SLRs have been sold. My lenses from the film days are still usable with my DSLRs (my old D70) and my current D700. I have only FX lenses.

Remember film is gradually getting harder to find and more expensive to buy and process. Kodakchrome has already become a memory. Put your money into a good digital SLR body and good glass. I have not shot film for maybe 8 - 10 years now and don't miss it at all. The 24-120 AFD is a good lens, it was my primary multi purpose lens for a long time but just at Christmas I got the 28-300 VR and that is going to be the multi purpose lens for me now.

Hope this helps, have a good 2011 - year of the Rabbit

Eb

December 15, 2010

Hi Mike,

I use my Nikon 60 mm macro with my D700. Does a fine job. My Nikon 105mm macro will do too, but I prefer the 60mm for ring shots.

Eb

November 24, 2010

Hi Cory,

Yes thats true, its not an AF D lens and you can set it ay 'Auto' and use it like the flash units of the old days. TTL Bal won't work

eb

November 24, 2010

Hi Jason

I have that old 50 AF F1.8 lens too. I first bought and used it on my 801 (8008) and now I have used it on my D70s and D 700 and it works well. It is a sharp lens. I also have an old 28mm AF 2.8 works well on my D700 but when I want wide angle I usually use my 20-35mm AF D F2.8.

All these 'old' Nikon lenses still work with even their latest DSLRs that is what is sets Nikon apart from their competition. I still have some Nikkor MF F mounts that I use sometimes with DSLRs.

eb

May 22, 2010

Hi Leo

Here is a shot taken with the 20-35 F2.8 and D700 about 3 weeks ago. It's a great lens.

Eb <div></div>

May 22, 2010

Hi

Ethe 20-35 is a great FX lens and I have had mine since 1999 - bought it just before it was discontinued - and never had any problem with it at all. On my D 700 it works beautifully, I used it extensively on my trip to Vegas just 3 weeks ago.

I prefer it over anything now that is wider than 20mm as there is less distortion.

If you can get a good price on it get it.

eb

April 6, 2010

Yes it may be possible to AF with a Nikon MF lens. Some Nikon SLRs can use the old TC 16 A and that will allow MF Nikon lenses to AF with some SLR bodies. It worked on the 8008, 6006 and F90. (801, 601 and F90X in Canada)

Now I do not know it the TC 16 A would have worked on non Nikon lenses, it should, but I don't remember trying it as all my lenses were Nikons at that time.

I do not know if the old TC 16A can be used on DSLR bodies, would some one out there know???

I had the TC 16 A at one time but sold it, about 10 years ago.

eb

February 13, 2010

Hail Cesar,

I had the 28-300 XR Di LD that you mentioned and sold it just 6 months after I bought it. Remember at the long end of the lens where it is over F 5.6 it does not always focus well on many Nikon SLRs and DSLRs including the D 700 and D 70 s which I have. The AF is slow. The performance of the lens is OK.

Instead of the 28-300 take a look at the Tamron 28 - 200 which is an F3.8 - 5.6 I used this on my D 700 in my recent trip to NZ and Australia and was very pleased with the results, mind you at the long end at F 5.6 it does not always snap to focus like a Nikon lens, but once you learn how to get it to focus your shots will be sharp.

If you are shooting sports this is not the lens for you, but for travel I found the size weight and performance to be very good. With so many restrictions as to weight and carry ons by the air lines I only had this lens and my Nikon 60 mm macro as a back up.

Eb

January 1, 2010

Hi Robert

Looks like you are on the same ship (Diamond Princess) as I would be on except that I will be sailing from Auckland to Sydney, this last incident on Christmas day has made it hard for me to decide what to pack but any way here is what I intend to take with me. My D700, 24-120, 105 Macro, 80-200 and the SB800, but I might leave the flash and the 105 macro behind if I have to.

I have checked the hand luggage regulations, seems that we are allowed ONE carry on and one accessory like a hand bag, attache case, but not to exceed 22 pounds. In any event even if the regulatiions have changed to 15 pounds, I would still be able to make it. This is also a trip of a life time for me, I have never been south of the Equator and from all accounts NZ is very scenic and I want images to remember this trip by.

If indeed you ar on the Diamond Princess, she is a huge ship and you would enjoy sailing on her, service is great. I sailed on it last year from Beijing to Bangkok. And if this English man David is still the manager of the ship's Photo department, take the time and get to know him, you will be glad you did.

eb

July 3, 2009

Hi Jose

I have my D700 for about 3 1/2 months and have shot just about 2700 frames. I always take the CF card out to down load my pics and have never had any problems with the cover popping open.

Eb

June 14, 2009

Remember that some times Nikon cameras will have trouble finding foucs at aperture greater than F 5.6.

I have Tamron 28-300 F3.8-6.3 and my D70s and D700 sometimes has to hunt for focus at the higher zoom end because the lens goes to F 6.3 at about 200mm. Frustrating when you need to be quick.

With your D40 you have to get lenses with the motor built in, with Nikons its the AF S lens.

Eb

June 14, 2009

I prefer to shoot nature too, but often have been approached to shoot weddings, and I enjoy that too.

I use the D 700, SB 800, and a Tamron 28-200, Nikon 24-120, 60 F2.8 macro (for close ups of rings, etc), 85 F 1.8 and 105 AF DC F2, and depending on the layout of the Church balcony or loft I also have my 80-200 or 80- 400 AF D VR to take a long shot of the couple at the altar. If I have to shoot in tight spots then I will take my 20-35 F 2.8.

I see no one suggested that you should be at the wedding rehearsal and have that opportunity to test your equiment and decide where you want to stand, when the B + G should walk slower, where you may want them to stand and face and where the other members of the wedding party whould stand and especially what they should do with their hands. I like the ladies holding their flowers at waist level, I like the gents with their hands behind them. It is also a good time to know who the main family members are that the B+G would want shots of, and if little kids are involved you can tell them how to walk and cue them as to what to do, like throwing rose petals, blowing bubbles or kisses, use thier cuteness to your advantage.

It is also good to know what kind of lighting is in the place, I once had to request that the spotlights not be used, on another occassion the church was full of mirrors it was difficult to get a flash shot without getting a flash back from the mirrors, and at other times the flowers or planters in the church had to be moved around so it would not block or put in a way that it would enhance a shot.

Just my 3 cents,

Eb

June 13, 2009

HI

I bought my D 700 from London Drugs in Edmonton AB on March 18, 2009 and they made me a deal at Can $ 2900 for the camera body and $200 for the MB 10 D + GST. I thought that was a good deal.

Shop and compare prices remember however Nikon has since raised its prices.

eb

June 11, 2009

Hi

I bought my F 5 in Malaysia and it came with a 2 year Nikon International Warranty.

I had no problem when I returned to Canada and it needed some adjustment. Nikon Canada honored the warranty.

Perhaps Nikon does not have their International Warranty any more?

eb

May 27, 2009

I used mine with MF lenses only, I sold it when I upgraded to AF lenses eventually.

eb

May 27, 2009

I used mine with MF lenses only, I sold it when I upgraded to AF lenses eventually.

eb

May 27, 2009

Its the right eye cup but it should have been made better. I remember mine came off quite easily and I eventually lost it. I never bothered replacing it.

eb

May 27, 2009

When I use my D 70s I use the Nikon 60mm macro as my main portrait lens. Remember it acts like a 90mm on DX format, if I have to use a longer lens then the 85 F 1.8 or the 105 DC F2, depending on how far away I can be from the subject.

Now I have the D 700 my 85 F 1.8 and 105 DC lens can be used as true portrait lenses like the way they were designed and intended for.

My D 70s now enjoys a well deserved retirement, but is used as a back up occassionally.

eb

May 27, 2009

When I use my D 70s I use the Nikon 60mm macro as my main portrait lens. Remember it acts like a 90mm on DX format, if I have to use a longer lens then the 85 F 1.8 or the 105 DC F2, depending on how far away I can be from the subject.

Now I have the D 700 my 85 F 1.8 and 105 DC lens can be used as true portrait lenses like the way they were designed and intended for.

My D 70s now enjoys a well deserved retirement, but is used as a back up occassionally.

eb

February 17, 2009

Hi Dave

I just got back from Malaysia and Hong Kong, the best prices on Nikon equpmnet are (would you believe it?) in NY City.

But if you have to get something from the Pacific rim countries then HK or Malaysia are the better places to get it. In HK try the stores in Stanley Street, and in Malaysia, the best place is the island of Penang in the north. These stores are well stocked but the prices are not lower than B&H or Adorama in NY, and in fact may be higher.

I had the same problem as you do when I dropped my lens in Beijing and the AF won't work and had to get a replacement in HK, but the price was not that great.

Good luck

eb

December 8, 2008

HI Epp,

I have used the FM2 in cold weather, out here in the prairies of Western Canada you get used to -15 to -40 C in the winter. Before the FM2 I had my old F2 and Nikkormat FT in all kinds of winter weather, out hiking and ice fishing. Do not use the motor drive to advance film, make sure your have good gloves on and hand warmers.

If it really gets cold you would likely give up shooting out doors way before the camera does. The FM 2 will do a fine job for you.

Eb

September 4, 2008

Hi Mark,

Here is what I did, the room is dark so focusing and composition is the problem. In my lst wedding shoot I used the

D 70s the with the SB800 on a Stroboframe and put the reflector on the flash and tilted it flseh to the first notch.

I used my 20-35 F2.8, get in close to the B+G or who ever you are shooting, with the wide angle you can do this. I

shot to 5.6 Aperature priority. ISO was 320, I am fussy about grain. Shoot RAW

The B+G will be adequately lit and the background darker, then in CS3 you do your composition, that's why the wide

angle lens was chosen for this job, and a wide angle lens is also faster to focus.

I do not want a B+G on a dance floor too well lit because that spoils the atmosphere of the dance floor, so B+G

should be lit with enough light but not so much light as to spoil the 'mood'.

I am new to this site and am not too computer smart and have not figured out how to attach an image to this answer

otherwise I shall show you some of my shots. Perhaps you can tell me how to do this.

eb

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