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lehun

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Posts posted by lehun

  1. <p>Hi,<br>

    I bought two different focusing levers, one marked Rollei f 50-250 in metal and one in plastic as seen in the image. None of these astonishingly fits any of the Rollei lenses I own, Sonnar 4/150 HFT, Distagon 4/50 HFT , Planar 2.8/80 HFT. I assume there is no focus lever for these lenses?</p>

    <p>Thanks</p>

    <p>Richard</p><div>00WJUa-238851584.jpg.de8ee4bdc00b3237188e9d671902b485.jpg</div>

  2. <table border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%">

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    <td colspan="2"><strong>DHW-Fototechnik GmbH</strong></td>

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    <td colspan="2">Hans Hartje</td>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td width="435">Salzdahlumer Straße 196<br /> 38126 Braunschweig<br /> Deutschland</td>

    <td valign="top">

    <p>Telefon: 0531/6800348<br /> Fax: 0531/6800295<br /> E-Mail: K.Hartje@franke-heidecke.net</p>

    </td>

    </tr>

    </tbody>

    </table>

  3. <p >Carmen Fiumerfreddo</p>

    <p >Onick Voskinarian</p>

    <p >Rollei & Hensel Service </p>

    <p >1275 Bloomfield Ave. Building #8 Unit #68 Fairfield, NJ 07004</p>

    <p ><strong>Business: </strong>+1 (973) 244-9662</p>

    <p ><strong>Business Fax:</strong> +1 (973) 244-9817</p>

    <p ></p>

    <p >Have a completely equipped worshop, and both used to work for Rollei USA and have decades of experience. They are not going anywhere any time soon. </p>

  4. Hi,<br /><br />I am looking for MF scans to be able to scan all usable images from MF shoots. I needs a standard high quality neutral scan so I can decide whether to drum scan after that.<br /><br />Mail order servives charge USD 6 per chrome for a wet gate scan, but I have not found anyone using a nikon coolscan 9000 ed or comparable (the epson v750 seems to be in use most of the time).<br /><br />I would be grateful for any suggestions.<br /><br />Thanks<br /><br />Richard
  5. <p>Hi Tak,<br>

    This is one of the things I wanted to ask you. The manual, both German and English is indicipherable for me on this point.</p>

    <p><em>"Compensated fi ll fl ash<br /> To select this fi ll-fl ash mode, set the exposure-<br /> compensation switch 43 to a value in<br /> the “comp“ range. This will reduce the<br /> effect of the ambient light by the minus<br /> value selected, the fl ash providing the<br /> remaining light required for proper exposure.<br /> Example:<br /> You have set -1. Ambient-light exposure<br /> will be reduced by one exposure value. The<br /> fl ash will compensate for the light loss.<br /> This is particularly interesting in shots<br /> where the fl ash has a strong effect on<br /> background exposure (e.g. in interiors).<br /> Additive fi ll fl ash<br /> To activate this fi ll-fl ash mode, set the<br /> exposure compensation to a value within<br /> the “add“ range. The exposure compensation<br /> has no effect on the ambient light.<br /> The fl ash output is high enough to brighten<br /> the subject by the compensation value<br /> set.<br /> Example:<br /> You have set +1. The surroundings of your<br /> subject will be rendered naturally, with the<br /> main subject reproduced lighter by one<br /> exposure value.<br /> This fi ll-fl ash mode is of particular importance<br /> for subjects in which the foreground<br /> should be reproduced brighter without the<br /> background being affected by the limited<br /> fl ash output (e.g. outdoors)."</em></p>

    <p>This would mean to me that the TTL meter system will combine continuous and strobe light sources, but allow me to change the ratio of one to the other (not compensating the wrong TTL preflash reading).<br>

    On this logic the only way to increase the exposure of the light is turn the strobe up to overexpose by 2/3 of what the preflash is saying is right.<br>

    What do you think?<br>

    P.S. What does silent mode actually do? Do you have it on all the time? I'm guessing it raises the mirror then waits a second before shooting?</p>

    <p>Thanks<br>

    Richard</p>

     

  6. <p>Hi,<br>

    Although the internal meter on my 6008 AF is spot on with my sekonic for continuous light, when I use the pre-flash function of the 6008 AF with studio strobes there is a 2/3 stop difference between what the camera says is right and an external flash meter.<br>

    Has any one seen this before?<br>

    Thanks<br>

    P.S. does the Masterware allow me to slow down the rate of continous shooting/auto bracketing to accomodate strobe recharching, they run just a little behind the speed of the camera?</p>

    <p> </p>

  7. Hi Sylvain, its the old question camera as investment, camera as creative tool. I just faced the same decision. I shoot in 35 with Leica M5's (1971-1975) and they are maintained to factory specs, and will probably out live me. I was always confronted by the stories of lack of parts for my M5s. Curiously enough after finding the right repair people this has never been the case.

     

    Are you going to be able to get the Rollei serviced in 10-20 years, my guess is maybe. Will you find a rollei 6008 that can replace the one you have that goes down, almost certainly. So for the price Kurland is selling them at, you will potentially have a camera that will never create a problem, until you decide you dont need it anymore. If it you need service within the next couple of years, you will find it.

     

    Will the camera be a secure investment? That is questionable. But that is not what I have this camera for. My most important advice contact the Service Person who will care the camera. They are the people who will have to be there for you. In this case it would be:

     

     

     

    <p >Onick Voskinarian </p>

    <p >Danielle Inc Rollei & Hensel </p>

    <p >Service 1275 Bloomfield Ave. Building #8 Unit #68 Fairfield, </p>

    <p >NJ 1275 BLOOMFIELD AVE.</p>

    <p >Tel. 973-244-9662 <br />info@danielleinc.us</p>

    <p ><a href="http://www.danielleinc.us">www.danielleinc.us</a></p>

    <p ></p>

    <p ></p>

     

     

  8. <p>Hi,<br>

    I changed out the viewfinder from the AF 56704 to 976069 Bright focusing screen with microprism spot. After doing this, I can see that there is a minute difference between what the auto focus reads and what the microprism says is in focus. This happens on all of the lenses I put on the body. Anyone have similar experiences or a suggested explanation?<br>

    Thanks<br>

    Richard</p>

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