peter_sturtivant

<p>I found a stall at a Photo-Bourse here in France selling many items at low low prices, I bought a 35 to 70mm f2.8 at £20 and the same guy had a number of F80 bodies in mint condition also at £20. I bought one on the basis that, if it didn't work for some reason, at least it had a good rewind knob that I could use to replace the slightly damaged one on my own F80. After having done so, a guy asked about one and, not wanting to mislead him, I fitted the lens I'd bought and looked through the viewfinder. I couldn't focus sharply, the screen was fuzzy. I changed the lens onto the one I'd bought, and it was just the same. I pointed out the problem to the guy and he passed on to the next stall. <br>

Having paid in good faith I took my F80 body home and checked again, it was fuzzy. I then fitted a battery and, hey presto, the screen was clear and sharp.<br>

My question is, quite simply, can anyone explain why?<br>

Any suggestions ?</p>

<p>I have never removed a Leica M rewind knob neither, but I've removed lots of others, the manufacturers of which have simply screwed on the inner fork. Since rewind knobs always wind clockwise, then there is no necessity for anything more sophisticated.<br>

From sunny France<br>

Peter Sturtivant</p>

Just don't forget that using a longer focal length lens for portraits can flatten the features. O/K it's good for large noses but you might need to increase the modelling illumination.

Incidentally I find that the AF-S 18mm-55mm f3.5-f5.6 ED and the AF-S 18-135mm ED are super sharp, despite their lower cost. Chasseur d'Image the premier French photo mag agrees with me. In a recent test against my 50-1.4D both ED lenses were sharper on my D80.

A useful tip when checking or comparing filters is to place them on a smooth white piece of paper. This doubles the apparent colour of the filter since the viewed light needs to pass through the glass twice.

As for the L39C/NC question, I would go for the L39C anyway, especially if the price is lower. How many of us ask ourselves if we have a UV filter fitted when off on a day out to take photos at altitude.

Incidentally, using a red filter cuts out virtually all other colours better than other colours of filters, so using a red as a lens test for chromatic aberration will show up whether chromatic aberration is a problem on a lens. Just take two identical pics with and without the red filter and compare the results. If the one without the filter is less sharp, then chromatic aberration exists.