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frank_lambert

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Posts posted by frank_lambert

  1. <p>My first car was a 1947 pontiac. The engine was certainly past it's prime and would do about 60 in 2nd and 50 in third! I have also owned a 1953 Chevrolet and a 1956 Ford Victoria (wish I had that Ford back). Put on more than one set of tire chains up in Northern NJ.... Glad the winters are milder here in NC :)<br>

    Have owned a 1947 Indian Chief, 1958 Harley, 1967 BSA Lightning, 1969 Royal Enfield.... <br>

    My first camera was a Brownie Hawk Eye, my parents gave me and was the catalist for my passion for cameras (I still have it)<br>

    My first 'Rock & Roll" concert featured Bill Haley and the Comets and if you even stood up you would be "escorted" OUT by the local police.... I saw Chubby Checker perform TWICE!<br>

    Went through Army Jump School and "exited" more than one C-119, C-130 and C-124.... Was a crew chief on a "Huey" with the 101st Airborne.<br>

    When I was about 7, I froze my tounge to the mail box one morning.... (never forget that)<br>

    Made candles from melted wax on the pot belly stove so we would have some extra light when the power was out two weeks at a time, in the winter.... (when nobody was watching, I used to like to spit on that stove, if you have never done that, it was great fun)<br>

    There's more but, enough for now :)</p>

    <p> </p>

  2. <p>As Andy already eluded, I should also stay away for the same reason but, can't resist...... I collect FSU cameras and one of the things I really enjoy is collecting "Re-Badged" versions. For instance, Zenit, a Russian manufacturer, sold their cameras to many "overseas" companies that re-sold them under a different name. Kalimar is one example. Fact is, Kalimar also re-badged some of the Japanese cameras such as Aires and, the Kalimar-44 was actually an Anny-44, made in Japan. Sears was a BIG buyer of Japanese cameras and marketed them under the "Tower" name. My point is; it would be interesting to do some research and see what Japanese cameras were marketed under a name other than the original manufacturer. You already have two; Kalimar and Sears (Tower).... so, there you go! (I just love getting others in as "deep" as me) :)!<br>

    Best Regards,<br>

    Frank....</p>

  3. I kind of went the way you are thinking and ended up picking a "favorite" route and pretty much concentrated on that. I have found it to be more suited to my liking and I don't have to know everything about every "type" of camera out there. I do still have some folders, box cameras, medium format TLR's and Japanese RF's but my real passion in collecting has become FSU RF's..... You may have already answered your question when you mentioned the FED 2 and your impression of it's looks... The FSU cameras, in general are very good "picture takers" with good glass and, you could spend a lifetime collecting all the various models and variations of just the FED's, Zorki's and Kiev's. The "flip side" of the coin is that they usually need "work" to get them in good order. I personally, don't mind that as I am also an avid "tinkerer" and really find enjoyment in bringing them back to life :)..... Anyway, just wanted to add my "2 cents" and, wish you good luck regardless of what "direction" you take... Good luck in keeping it "modest":). Regardless, It is certainly a "worthy quest"!

     

    Regards,

    Frank

  4. If you own a sedan, pickup truck, sports car and a motorcycle and, someone asked; "which one would you rather drive?", it would be impossible to answer by selecting just one. Mood, purpose, climate conditions, etc., would be a big part of deciding factor. With that said, I am rating my cameras in the following manner:

     

    SLR

    Canon FTb (have had this one for 35 years and, have "grown accustomed to it :))

    Rangefinder

    Fed 2 (Fun & interesting to use and takes EXCELLENT photos with Industar 26M)

    TLR

    1. Yashica 124G (Excellent photo quality in MF)

    Folder

    1. Zeiss Ikon, Ikonta 521/2 (Classy, fun camera. Generates a lot of questions from onlookers)

     

    PS: I also really enjoy ALL my other cameras and have "used" them all at one time or another.... So, I guess it would be better to qualify, all the above, as being my favorites right this minute.... I will probably change within the next hour or two or, possibly not until that Kiev 4 arrives..... :)

  5. Hi all,

    I recently saw a camera from "Rocky" that I was interested in. I asked him "what is the condition of the lens; i.e., scratches, fungus, fogging or, none of the above"? His answer was; "everything in the photograph is included and as is".... I sent another similar request, asking again. the same question.... Same answer. I "wrote him off" at that point..... I guess, from reading this thread, I did the right thing.

     

    I have learned (luckely only once) that you need to ask the "right" questions to ebay sellers and, if you don't get the "right" answer, it's time to "move on".

  6. Hi Brian,

    It seems that just about every "bargain" I come accross backfires in some way. It's usually in "time spent" restoring that "good deal" to fully operational condition. Being an avid "tinkerer" is my downfall. I will go on the "hunt" for a camera that needs work and, if it's a Yashica Electro 35, for instance, I may be able to get it for around $15 shipped.. Then the fun begins. Complete tear down, clean all the corrosion up, replace at least two wires (sometimes more), Install new POD, free up the sticking shutter, etc, etc.... and, by the time I get it all properly lubricated and re-assembled, run a roll of film through it and get it processed, I have spent no less than five hours labor and another $10 for film, processing and travel expense. Plus another two hours getting some photos, to and from the processor, etc.. Now my real cost is $25 cash + 7 hours of labor and the Camera is now worth about $30 ..... That pays me seventy cents an hour for time and labor.... I don't know about everyone else but, I wouldn't take that job :) worse than all that, I don't ever sell any of them... Do you think I would be better off just finding "Mint" examples?? Ya' gotta' love it

     

    Frank

  7. I recently got a Konica C35 in a "lot" of cameras that I bought for parts. The C35 had a sticking shutter and I was able to fix that problem without too much trouble and, I installed new light seals. I figured I would sell it but, wanted to run a roll of film through it first. I carried it around in the car for about two weeks and was able to finally use the roll up (Fuji Color 400ASA). Every shot came out perfect! I found the camera to be very user friendly, the lens is very sharp, focus is dead on, exposure, on automatic, is exceptional and the color rendition is amazing. It is now my "go everywhere" camera and it's NOT for sale! I do not have any of the other cameras you mentioned but, I do have several Electro 35's, Hi-Matic 7S's, various FSU RF's, and too many others to list but, the C35 fits in nicely with all the rest.... Just my "two cents", get the C35 if you are looking for a very handy, nicely made accurate rangefinder that produces good results.... The only thing I could say against it, is that it does not have automatic parallex compensation in the viewfinder... Not a big deal to me. Good luck and, I know you will be a "happy camper" regardles of your decision.

     

    Frank

  8. Gene, your "found film" postings are habbit forming. I have found myself getting up from the dinner table in order to go check this forum for more. It has become more "necessary" than checking my e-mail! PLEASE don't stop.... Now, where is that shoreline???
  9. I pulled the cds cell. It measured a short and, varying light intensity had no effect. Got some cds cells at Radio Shack. Drilled the old cell out of the metal case and mounted the new cell. Right now I'm waiting for the RTV to cure. Will wire things back up when it's "set up". I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks again..

     

    Frank..

  10. Dan,

    When I set it up for the battery check, the meter deflects to the "OK" area. When I set the shutter and aperature up in manual mode or automatic, the meter swings to full scale (EV 17). I acts like the cds cell has absolutely no resistance and it makes no difference what the light intensity is on the cds cell.

    Frank...

  11. Hi all,

    Anyone know the adjustment procedure, for the three pots. on the meter ckt.

    board on the Hi-Matic 9? I just got one and as soon as I put a battery in, the

    meter goes full scale and changing light intensity to the cell has no effect.

    Not sure yet, if it's wireing (all wireing outside lens checks out), the cell,

    the meter or an adjustment. I have a "hunch" that the cds cell might be bad.

    If that is the case, does anyone know of a source for a suitable replacement,

    other than another "parts camera"?

    Thanks.

    Frank

  12. Concerning the adapters to permit use of the silver-oxides;

    I have made several by converting a "spent" PX-625 to a "holder" for the smaller 357's. You have probably seen the conversion but, at the risk of redundancy, I am attaching the link to the full description. I use a Shottky 1N5711 diode (available from "Digi-Key") for the "dropping" diode and, I get the copper tape, for the conductor at a stained glass shop, here in town. I can make one of these for about a buck. It's a pain but, it's worth it in my opinion. Also, it is my understanding that the Yashica Electro 35's, at least, do have a bridge circuit and can compensate for higher than the original 5.3v batteries. I use the standard 6v alkalines with a converter to physically adapt the smaller battery, in all three of mine with good results.

    http://www.buhla.de/Foto/batt-adapt-US.pdf

    FL

  13. There is more than one possibility. As Patrick pointed out, if the battery is dead or below 5v, the electro magnet circuit that releases the shutter will not work. If this is the case, it's either a low or dead battery or the magnet is sticking and not releasing properly. If you can not move the lever, the shutter is probably cocked and it's one of the above problems. If the battery is good, I would remove the bottom cover and, you should see a small magnet/solonoid. take a probe and see if you can release the actuator from the magnet. If you can, the shutter should fire and you should be able to advance the film advance lever. Lightly lubricate the linkage to the electro magnet and you may have solved the problem. The other instance is if the film advance lever just turns freely. If that's the case something is broken or disconnected. I am attaching a link for a service guide for you camera. Good luck.

    http://www.canonfd.com/at1repairguide/at1servicerepairguide.pdf

  14. Hi All...

    I would buy a good spanner wrench so I don't have to "make" one everytime I need to remove or, take a lens apart. Then I would order some of that lightproof fabric from Porters Camera so I can get started making new bellows for three folders that have been begging for new ones... That should take care of the hundred but, then I would go on the hunt for more broken relics, over-extend the budget and, hope I could find another $100 :-)

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