vincent_lupo

<p>Frank Marshman / Camera Wiz (540) 434-8133. He's repaired several Exaktas of mine over the years, including a few Kine Exakta I's, and a beautiful VX Version 1 that's sitting on my kitchen counter right now with a roll of XP2 in it, and will be used today. Now, he does have some problems getting the shutter curtain material -- oftentimes I've sent him an Exakta body with good curtains and he will install them in the better body for me. <br>

Frank knows these cameras very well, and would not hesitate to recommend him for any repair.</p>

 

<p>This post was also submitted in another thread, but I think it's appropriate here too, so here goes.....</p>

<p>Best Exakta lenses? Wow, where to start? The one really nice thing about Exaktas is that you have a huge selection of lenses -- at one point, there were more lenses made for Exaktas than any other camera.<br /> I'm offering these thoughts as someone who has been using Exaktas since he was 12 years old (32 years), so take these opinions however you like.....<br /> As far as a 'normal' lens goes, I'd go for the 55m f/1.9 Steinheil Auto-Quinon -- beautifully sharp, and you can close focus with it. Speaking of close focus, another one would be a Kilfitt 40/3.5 Makro Kilar.<br /> Wide lenses - my choice would be a Schneider 35/2.8 Curtagon. Any of the Angenieux lenses would be good too. I have an ISCO 24mm lens, but I can't say that's it's the sharpest lens (at least mine isn't, and it's in very nice shape).<br /> Portrait lenses - there's a few good ones, but of course the best of the best is the 75/1.5 Zeiss Biotar. I'd also vote for the Meyer 100/2.8 Trioplan.<br /> Please keep in mind that a few of the lenses I've mentioned are either manual or pre-set lenses. Not that it's a big deal, but it just adds one more thing for you to remember if you're focusing wide open and need to stop down to take the picture.<br /> The cameras themselves are not 'speed' cameras, but does it really matter? They just slow you down and make you a more thoughtful photographer!<br /> My personal preference for an Exakta camera model is the VX version 1 - the back does not detach like the Varex, it has that beautifully curved film advance lever, and you don't have to hold the rewind button down to rewind the film, as with a VXIIa. But, I have to say that the VXIIa with the embossed logo on the front is quite pretty.<br /> Exaktas are quite underrated cameras (in my opinion). True, it can be difficult to find a good one (primarily due to deteriorated shutter material), but once you do, you will be rewarded with beautiful photos and a very satisfying photography experience (particularly if you're a leftie!).</p>

<p>Best Exakta lenses? Wow, where to start? The one really nice thing about Exaktas is that you have a huge selection of lenses -- at one point, there were more lenses made for Exaktas than any other camera. </p>

<p>I'm offering these thoughts as someone who has been using Exaktas since he was 12 years old (32 years), so take these opinions however you like.....</p>

<p>As far as a 'normal' lens goes, I'd go for the 55m f/1.9 Steinheil Auto-Quinon -- beautifully sharp, and you can close focus with it. Speaking of close focus, another one would be a Kilfitt 40/3.5 Makro Kilar. </p>

<p>Wide lenses - my choice would be a Schneider 35/2.8 Curtagon. Any of the Angenieux lenses would be good too. I have an ISCO 24mm lens, but I can't say that's it's the sharpest lens (at least mine isn't, and it's in very nice shape).</p>

<p>Portrait lenses - there's a few good ones, but of course the best of the best is the 75/1.5 Zeiss Biotar. I'd also vote for the Meyer 100/2.8 Trioplan.</p>

<p>Please keep in mind that a few of the lenses I've mentioned are either manual or pre-set lenses. Not that it's a big deal, but it just adds one more thing for you to remember if you're focusing wide open and need to stop down to take the picture. </p>

<p>The cameras themselves are not 'speed' cameras, but does it really matter? They just make you a more thoughtful photographer!</p>

<p>My personal preference for an Exakta camera model is the VX version 1 - the back does not detach like the Varex, it has that beautifully curves film advance lever, and you don't have to hold the rewind button down to rewind the film, as with a VXIIa. But, I have to say that the VXIIa with the embossed logo on the front is quite pretty.</p>

<p>Exaktas are quite underrated cameras (in my opinion). True, it can be difficult to find a good one (primarily due to deteriorated shutter material), but once you do, you will be rewarded with beautiful photos and a very satisfying photography experience.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Update on my Pilot: After having made my last post, I did a bit of digging and found your photos of the right side of the camera taken apart. Like yours, mine had some sticky dark lube that seemed to be hosing everything up. I cleaned it up, and it now works!<br>

I do have a question though: that lever that moves with the shutter along that long curved lower channel - it has a hole at the end, and your photo shows it pushing against the pin. Should that pin not fit into that hole, as opposed to the arm pushing against it? I'm assuming that the hole is there for the pin, otherwise why would it be there?</p>

<p>I'm feeling rather jealous at the moment, as your Pilot is working great, and my shutter isn't working properly. The shutter will function after pressing the button, but it will just go up with the mirror (in other words, it won't expose the film). How do you take the camera apart to get to the workings of the shutter? And, what adjustments are there inside that would enable the shutter to function properly? Or, is it just a case of it needing a good lube?<br>

Many thanks!</p>

 

<p>I got the camera back from Frank -- this camera is unreal! I have a roll of Tri-X in it right now, and am hoping to have it shot by the end of this weekend. I'll be sure to use the 135mm lens as well, and will post photos to let you assess the next round of results -- judging by my track record of posting photos here, they may end up on Rangefinder Forum instead!</p>

<p>It still won't work. Try this link and you'll be able to see three shots there, about halfway down the page:<br /> <a href="http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58956&page=2">http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58956&page=2</a></p>

<p>Okay, last chance on a photo from my one roll of film......</p>

One more time with feeling....

We'll try this again....

Just as an update -- here's a photo from my singular roll of film taken with the Contaflex TLR. It's using the 50mm f/2 Sonnar lens. BTW,

the mount for the Contaflex is in fact different than a Contax -- not to mention the price!

Just noticed my name mentioned in this thread regarding the Contaflex TLR. Here's an update on my particular beast...

 

I got it off eBay, sent it to Frank Marshman at Camera Wiz for him to replace the ribbons, give it the full spit and polish etc etc. I got a

135mm lens for it too (about as expensive as the camera), and proceeded to run exactly one roll of film through it. I found that there

was shutter capping at anything above 1/100th of a second, and you have to be careful not to shake the camera due to the use of a

lever as a shutter release. I managed to get a few decent shots out of it before having sent it back to Frank to fix that shutter capping.

As of last week, (November 20/08), Frank still had it completely taken apart, so hopefully with enough prodding I'll have it back by the

end of the year.

 

Despite these initial technical hiccups, it is definitely now my favourite camera -- you really need to hold and handle this thing to really

appreciate it. Prior to having purchased it, I was serious dissuaded from buying it by those 'in the know'. Granted, it isn't a speed

camera, verticals take some getting used to (not a big deal, really), and it weighs about 4 lbs or something, but if I wanted an easy way

to take pictures I'd use my Blackberry. It's really not the point with this camera, or any vintage camera for that matter. It definitely

slows you down, which for me is a good thing.

 

So, if you can afford it and expect to send it away for a full overhaul, it is quite a rewarding camera to own and use.

 

Vince Lupo.

Having used Leica TM equipment since I was 16 (I'm 42 now), I can't really recommend a

screw mount camera for flash, particularly outdoors. For one thing, using it to 'fill in

harsh shadows in daylight' will be tough with a 1/25 sec. flash synch (electronic), unless

you're using ISO 50 film. Indoors you might be okay, but even the bulk of a Vivitar 283 on

the camera's shoe (or a CTOOM flash bracket) will make the small body a little hard to

handle. For me, the purpose (and the joy, for that matter) is using a camera like this in

available light with higher speed black and white film. The cameras are fantastic - I have

at least 10 screw mount bodies - but I just don't think that using it for flash photography

would be its strong suit. A IIIf is a great camera, and there is really nothing wrong with

conversions (I have a gorgeous and highly unique black I/IIIf conversion with a serial

number of 8989), but I understand that some 'purist' collectors aren't big on them. I

would agree that a Canon rangefinder would give you faster action, and a VT with the

trigger wind on the bottom would be a good and inexpensive choice, plus you can use all

the Leica screwmount lenses.

 

As far as where to get one, Sandy Ritz at www.collectiblecameras.com is a reliable and

honest resource, www.keh.com are fantastic, and Igor Reznik at www.igorcamera.com is

good too. Kevin Li at www.kevincamera.com is also a source for good equipment, plus

he's a good honest guy. For service, you can't beat Gerry Smith at Kindermann Canada,

and down in the U.S I like Frank Marshman / Camera Wiz (he really is the Wiz!).

 

Hope this adds something to the discussion.....

I just hope that the photo lab can print the photos! I shot a roll with my Tenax II recently and

brought it to my local 'pro' photo lab. They could process the negs but their whiz-bang

computerized printer didn't recognize the format, so they couldn't print it. Reminds me of

when I shot with my Robot Star camera -- fantastic camera, but it cost about $ 50.00 to get

one roll of film processed and printed (they were basically 'custom' 5"x5" prints and charged

as such).

For repairs, Frank Marshman at Camera Wiz is your guy (540) 434-8133.

I know this thread is a few years old, but the initial question was if anyone out there is

using a MOOLY. I just came back from a three week trip to Europe, including a trip to

Wetzlar and Solms (where the Leica factory is), and my main cameras were a black Leica III,

and a Leica IIIa with a MOOLY motor. I love using it because it gives a little extra heft to

the camera, and all you ahve to do is simply press down on the lever on the front of the

motor and it fires (doesn't work for speeds under 1/30, however). I shot 20 rolls of film (8

rolls colour and 12 rolls XP2), and the cameras didn't miss a beat. It was particularly great

to stand in front of the Barnack memorial holding my Leica III -- it was made while

Barnack was still at the factory.

The only objection I have about the MOOLY's is that if makes loading the camera a bit

more of a production (take the transmission arm off, remove the motor, etc). Oh and of

course I hate the fact that they're getting so darned expensive...even crappy ones are

going for $ 1200.00!