icecold1980

<p>The camera will be on a stationary tripod, and it will just be a long exposure. I've read that the purpose for stopping down the aperture mid-exposure is so that, in not a completely dark sky, the sky will not wash out the stars. At least, that's what I think the purpose is...</p>

<p>I have recently been experimenting with night sky photography, and I've read about stopping the aperture down throughout the very long exposure. I can see how this is possible on film SLRs, where there is an aperture ring available to adjust at any time. I have a Canon T1i. Is there a way to stop down the aperture during a long exposure? Thanks in advance!</p>

<p>Funny you should say that, Michael, but I happen to scroll down a little further, and found that! I just need to upload it now. Thanks for searching. I'm trying to unlock the RAW capture features now. I know how to enable it; I just need to figure out how to download it and process it (I'm not sure if CameraWindow transfers it automatically). Thanks again, everyone.</p>

<p>Thanks for that note. It seems like an odd limitation. I'll check out the CHDK forums to see if anyone's devised a workaround before I write a script.</p>

<p>When using Av mode in near-dark situations, are there limitations as to how long the shutter speed will be? Will it ever use the full 15" if it needs to? I'm asking this because I'm utilizing CHDK to do time lapse from night to day, and am trying to expose correctly for that varying light condition. Thanks!</p>

<p>I lucked out at the local camera store. It doesn't have a lock, but nothing I can't rig up! Thank you for the link. I'm pretty excited now to spot locations for good night shots.</p>

<p>I've finally discovered what the "B" means on my dial, literally. I knew what it did, but had no idea what it stood for. That's the minor exciting news. Now I want to dive into night photography, taking advantage of the bulb setting. I don't have a cable release for this camera. Does anyone know where I can find one for this camera? Also, I wonder about the longer exposures, well, even as short as four minutes. I'd get bored holding a cable that long, so is there a timer associated with these cables, so that you can leave it unattended during a long exposure? Thanks for the help in advance!</p>

I just had a discussion with someone on sensor sizes. I've read that if you compare a small sensor 8Mp camera to a

larger sensor 8Mp camera, the image captured with the larger sensor will have better quality. Is this ALWAYS true?

 

Because, what he was saying, was that it all depends on sensor quality, and something about the sensor's

receptors...so, you won't necessarily have better image quality with a larger sensor. It sounds like it makes sense -

a "quality" product is better than "any other" product from a performance standpoint. Anyone agree / disagree? I'm

not quite keen on this subject yet, but do manufacturers make their own sensors, or get them from someone else?

Who's got the best sensors?

 

We also briefly talked about lenses. He was comparing his Canon Digital Rebel XTi to my Canon A570IS, and was

saying that since my lense element is smaller, image quality is somewhat comparable to the XTi, because it's easier

to manufacture a homogeneous, smaller lense, with quality becoming more difficult to maintain as the lense element

becomes larger. Opinions? Thanks for everyone's help!

I'd like to be able to manage from scanner to monitor to printer, but input will mainly be coming from my camera...so, mostly monitor to printer 'alignment'.

I'm looking for a decent quality color management tool...hopefully for $80 or

less, if there is such a thing. I guess less than $100 would be fine too.

I've heard of Huey, and Spyder2 Express. Anyone have experience with any of

these products? I just want to make sure that what I compose is what I'll see

on the computer, which will be what I see on a print out. Thanks for any input!

The camera is a Canon A570IS. Taking panoramics is pretty cool with this camera, especially with a tripod, then everything stitches seamlessly.

I have a fairly new one, but it is not HD capable - Sony DCR-SR80. It has 60GB of hard drive space, 12x zoom, various focusing/scene options, and decent night-shooting capability. There's also image stabilization. Around $800-$900. Good for the money! Good luck with your research.

Anthony, what kind of camera do you have? Unfortunately, my camera doesn't even have a zoom level indicator, so I just made sure I was somewhere around 2x to 3x. I tried with those exposure values, with evaluative, center, and spot metering, but no luck. The lowest ISO I was able to use was 80. It's looking real nice tonight too. Full moon tomorrow. Right now, the moon is a tiny center of this gigantic circular glow in a perfect circle around it.

I have a Canon A570IS...is it worth it to get the wide angle converter for this

camera? It has a .75 magnification, allowing me to take 26.25mm shots. The

CCD for this camera is 1/2.5". Opinions? Recommendations for D-SLR's, haha?!

Thanks!

Frank, it's not that I'm ashamed of being a beginner at this - I usually am picky as to what kind of personal information I put on the web, that's all. I'm very much getting into this hobby though, as much as I can with my new point-and-shoot. I've learned that you don't need Photoshop to create captivating compositions!

I've been trying to capture a nice clear shot of the moon, but no success yet.

There are some trees in the foreground with the moon in the sky above them - no

branches blocking the moon. The camera I'm using is the point-and-shoot Canon

A570IS. I tried using F8.0 with shutter speeds from 1" to 10", spot metering,

evaluative (with the moon being the center of the photo)...but the trees show

up fuzzy most of the time, and with longer shutter speeds, the moon becomes

overexposed, and loses is clarity. ISO was set at 80...I figured with the

longer shutter speeds I was using, I didn't need a high ISO. Any hints? Much

appreciated!<div></div>