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I have a Canon 5D3, program mode is selected, but when focus on subject I cannot adjust exposure + or -. with main dial I can vary Fstops, but when I attempt to vary EV with quick control an "L" appears and the exposure time is locked. I depend on being able to vary EV a lot as I am a existing light photographer. Does anyone have an idea on how to get rid of the "L" so I can vary EV's on the fly. thanks.

<p>I just upgraded to Windows 10 and Photoshop Elements 14 and experience your same problems. For years I've been able to get away without using Color Calibation on my Epson 2880. I use only Epson Inks and Epson Papers. I have downloaded the Epson 2880 Driver and all Epson Profiles. Ron, I would appreciate what you've done to resolve your issues. Would also appreciate advice on color calibration packages.<br>

I am planning to upgrade to a Epson P800, but that is on hold until I resolve the issues with the 2880 and Windows. </p>

<p>When I installed my 2880 I downloaded all necessary drivers which included the ICC Profiles in existence for the 2880 at that time. Not included at that time were Exhibition Fiber Paper (EFP), plus the two Hotpress papers and the two Coldpress papers. I have been able to download all the new profiles and these new profiles are shown as "Installed" in Microsoft Vista Control Panel/software.<br>

With Photo Black Ink installed and recognized on the 2880 I am able to select any of the glossy papers I want to print on except EFP. I have the same problem with the Fine Art Papers (Hot Press, Cold Press) when I have Matte Black Ink installed and recognized.<br>

The Epson Help Desk tells me the EFP selection is not available on the 2880 and that I would have to have a 3000 or 4900 to have the selection. I'm told to print EFP using the Luster choice.</p>

<p>Andrew, I downloaded EFP from PixelGenius. Using Vista OS. </p>

<p>I've downloaded the Exhibition Fiber Paper (EFP) ICC Profile, but am unable to select it during the printing process.<br>

Epson suggests I just use the Luster profile instead. When I printed on Epson Satin Canvass I was instructed to use the Water Color Radiant Profile and did not achieve good printing results with that.<br>

I would appreciate your comments on printing EFP on the 2880.<br>

I use Epon inks, Photoshop Elements V.10 and have been very happy with the 2880.</p>

<p> </p>

<p><a href="http://www.finerworks.com">www.finerworks.com</a> can do large. The customer is always right, so have them specify your print size.</p>

<h4>If you qualify for the Canon Loyalty program you may be able to get a refurb 5DMarkIII for about $2,500. You can also get lenses for a reduced price. Usually to replace lost or non repairable under warranty. All equipment is subject to availability and there was one 5DMarkIII available last week. 90 warranty comes on the refurb.</h4>

<p>All my stuff went underwater and was certified "non repairable" by Canon Warranty Repair. Most of what I lost was not available in refurb, so my insurance company purchase all new from Canon Direct. </p>

<p>I held out on digital until the 20D, then got a 50D for second camera. Both were slow compared to the 8FPS film camera's I had been using. In July I got a 5DMarkIII and I am in Heaven. I got rid of the 20D, I keep my 300mm f4 on the 50D, and mostly just pack my 5DMarkIII with 17-40 and 70-200 f4. I suggest look at the 6D and 50DMarkIII. Get the best technology you can afford.</p>

<p>Thanks all for your comments. This particular cemetery is in the U.S. where many freed slaves are buried. There are few head stones since the families of the deceased were too poor to be able to afford them. There is a fence around the cemetary, but it is absent of "No Trespassing" signs. I've decided to call the church's pastor and inform him of my plans to exhibit this picutures and what title I plan to give to it.</p>

<p>What rules, ethic, protocols are involved when photographing in a church cemetery? Can you show a picture of a grave marker with the deceased person's name. Can these photo's be entered in photo contests, be published and can they be sold?<br>

I recently took pictures in what I consider to be a historically significant church cemetery. The grave marker included in one of my photopgraphs shows the deceased died in 1899. The marker was placed in later years by members deceased persons family.<br>

Would appreciate serious conversation about this. thanks.</p>

<p>Would anyone consider in-camera HDR in the M3 as a plus over the M2?</p>

<p>Would anyone consider the in camera HDR as a benefit of the 5DM3 over the older M2?</p>

<p>In the last 5 years the yen to dollar exchange has gone from .008 to .0129. Gas has gone from $1.80 to $3.40. Mostly caused by the cheaper dollar. We just got faked out because the price on the 50D to 60D was decreased to $1,000 from $1,200. It went down because it was a cheaper build.</p>

<p>Processors, memory and storage have taken a nose dive in the past 5-10 years. The Canon 60D is 20% less that the 50D was. The 5D-II was originally priced at about $2,699. so why would a MK III be less than than a Mk II unless it is made of gold or has features that you can't live without?<br>

Just look what IBM and H-P have done with capacity enhancements for a much lower unit price. Digital cameras use processors, memory, and storage too and are subject to the same market competition. A Mk III with 25-30 MP's, that eliminates the need for Photo Shop and Light Room shouldn't be much more that a Mk II is if it wants to be competitive in the market place.<br>

It's and interesting market place and Canon has always been competitive. You either need a new technology, or else you price your processors, memory and storgage at the market price. </p>

<p>Thanks to all for you great comments.</p>

<p>My current equipment is 50D (15mp) with 50 1.4, 15-40 4.0, 70-200 4.0 and 300 4.0 plus 1.4X. I process with PSE and print with Epson Photo R2880.<br>

I shoot just about everything from landscapes to birds. 300mm with 1.4 just does not have the reach or sharpness with either handheld and IS or with tripod. I just don't see a 500mm in my future due to cost.<br>

I am really getting into birds. Which would best suit this app--a new 5Diii with rumored 30mp and my current 300mm 4.0 or my current 50D with a 500mm 4.0. It can only be one or the other as buying both would put me out in the cold.</p>

 

<p>I say forget the copywrite issue, just be happy you got your camera back.</p>

<p>I print on an Epson 2880 using Super B cut sheet Epson Enhanced Matte now called Ultra Premium Presentation Paper Matte. Many of my landscape photos require an aspect ratio not supported by the 19" length limitation of the cut sheet paper. Epson does not sell Enhanced Matte in roll stock for the 2880. Has anyone found an equivalent matte paper in 13" wide roll stock from another vendor. Thanks in advance for your help.</p>

<p>the Kodak Workshop Series, Existing-Light Photography, might be an interesting read for you. This was written pre digital, but you can still use most of the settings in it as guidelines. This will give you ISO/Exposure times for everything from nighttime fireworks, cityscapes, lightning, to shooting the Eiffel Tower after dark. You find it in your local library, Library of Congress Catalogue Card No. 96-69137.<br />You can probably Google it. Hope this helps.</p>

<p>I have a "personal articles" policy that goes with my State Farm homeowners policy. It costs me about $54/year for loss/damage where ever I go for about $6,000 worth of Canon equipment. Photography is my passion not my major source of income so I am not paying professional rates. Where you live and your credit rating will also influence your rates.<br>

I think a personal articles policy that would go with renter's insurance would be your best bet unless you are a professional photographer. Property and Casualty insurance in the the USA is very competitive. Any agent would be happy to quote your coverage. Find out who your friends and relatives have their renter/homeowner insurance with and call their agent. Or look in the yellow pages and pick any three different insurance companies for a quote.<br>

In my case if my equipment grows feet then I miss a shot that could provide some income, but mostly would reinforce a memory for a lifetime. I guess I could live with missing a shot, but having to pay for my equipment twice would be even worse. I'd rather pay a little every year for insurance then have to replace camera, lenses, filters, bags, etc in one fell swoop.<br>

The major cities in Europe are just like the major cities in America. There are a lot of kids with fast hands and even faster feet just waiting for you to put your camera bag on the ground. </p>

<p>I have my 50D, 300 mm f4, 70-200 mm f4, 17-14mm f4, 50 mm f1.4 all on a personal items policy with my State Farm Agent. I pay $54/year for this coverage for virtually any type of loss. It allows me to to worry more about getting the picture than losing equipent. So far I haven't filed a claim, but accidents can always happen.<br>

I take my equipment sailing, canoeing, hiking, biking, whatever. I worry more about leaving it in a hotel room than loosing it in water.<br>

I hope your 70-200 f2.8 IS recovers from its accident. I suggest you get a personal items policy for future coverage. Just keep taking pictures. </p>

<p>I have 50D with 17-40, but need to go wider. Why not the new 15-85 that will allow me to go wider and longer.</p>

<p>I'm another 486 with RC2 user. I started using RC2 with an earlier ball head when I was shooting with an EOS 5. I am very happy with the combination. I carry my 50D with either 17-40 or 70-200 f4 mounted on the tripod a lot. Two things I would like to emphasize are: 1) be sure the RC2 is secured flush with your camera body or lens, and 2) have personal lines insurance that covers accidental loss. I have RC2's screwed onto my lens collars for both my 70-200 f4 and 300 f4. I have total confidence with this combination. I pay about $50/year for personal lines insurance that covers 4 L lenses/haze filters/polarizers and 2 camera bodies. You never know when you might trip or when the canoe might capsize. </p>

<p>I don't disagree with any of the comments made. I have a 50 1.4 that I use on my 20D and 50D. I recently was "forced by necessity" to buy a 50mm 1.8. For $99 you might want to try this throw-away-lens for awhile before making a bigger investment. </p>

<p>I have a 50D. Whenever I shoot a social event I always use my stroboframe bracket and speedlite with great results. However, I was recently in the City for fun, and to attend a friends suprise birthday party. Friday night. We'd planned this trip months in advance and I forgot I was supposed to be the photographer. I got a reminder on Friday evening that I was supposed to shoot the event. I forgot to bring my bracket and flash and the only lenses I had were my 17-40 and 70-200 f4 which I didn't think would work with the pop up. B&H and Adorama were closed so I went to three Mid Town camera rip off stores and tried to negotiate a fair price. Saturday morning I found Camera Land at 575 Lexington and a fair price. I got great pics at the party, photo shop took care of the red eyes, and my story had a happy ending.<br>

Better a pop-up than no flash (even though the AF assist is a nuisance), a thank goodness for Camera Land. </p>