phyliss_crowe

<p>Um, guys. I didn't say I can't locate the photographer. I'm working with him now about the second photo of the Ranger, and I've been exchanging emails and phone calls with his wife. They're Red Shutter Studios.</p>

<p>I said I may not be able to contact the RANGER because his photo was taken by Rod 7 years ago. And yes, he would be recognizable because the second photo of him is a full facial and in the same costume, both of them taken the same day at the same location. Who knows how long he's been doing this? Maybe years. People will recognize him. It's one of the reasons I started this thread. And the reason you can't see his face in the "street" photo is because like Rod said, those re-enactors were initially camera shy.</p>

<p>Everything else aside, I WILL ask Rod about the license and I WILL contact the folks who run and maintain the Tuscon Old West town they use for their shows. Hopefully, they'll be able to set me on the path to finding my Ranger. Then I can work with him about the book cover. That part of the process is relatively without cost. And I need to get on it because I just completed my book tonight! whew!</p>

<p>Thanks again for your help!</p>

<p>Just for curiosity's sake, this is the photo I bought and want to use for my book cover.</p>

<p>

<p>How often do you get this kind of capture off the cuff?</p>

<p>Better safe than sorry would be the preferred way to go, I agree.<br>

Maybe I'll just vacation in Tucson this year and snap him myself. He is rather handsome.</p>

<p>Thanks for all your input - astute and well informed as always!</p>

<p>Thanks for the well wishes, too. </p>

<p>If I buy a photo of a person from a professional photographer with the original intent of hanging it in my living room, which I have done, then decide I'd like to use a copy of it for the cover of an e-book I'm writing, do I have to jump through any hoops to be able to do that? One assumes there's already been a "model" release signed because there is another photo of this same person taken by this same photographer that I'm also going to purchase. I say "model" because he doesn't do this professionally. He is/was a volunteer gunfighter re-enactor in Tucson, and I'm not sure I would be able to contact him if I needed to get his permission or something. The photo was taken 7 years ago. He may not be there anymore. Of course, I'd give credit when the book is e-published. </p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>or maybe never really understood in the first place.</p>

<p><a href="http://blog.photoshelter.com/2012/01/rant-i-love-photography/">http://blog.photoshelter.com/2012/01/rant-i-love-photography/</a></p>

Glad to hear you were able to get the lens off without damage to it or the camera. I just hope you're not giving up on Sears lenses altogether. They have a Sears Lens Club over at pentaxforums.com with some samples of what those old lenses can do. Stunning results and an excellent bargain for what they produce, IMHO.

One of my all-time favorites is an Auto Sears 55mm f1.4; resembles a Takumar physically. Never have figured out why, but when I start using it, I can't seem to stop. It just "feels" good, and the results are sweet!

<p><strong>If you get a Ricoh lens jammed on your camera...</strong><br>

If you do get a Ricoh lens stuck on your Pentax camera, you can often remove it by inserting a thin feeler gauge between the lens and mount on the lower right-hand side (with the camera pointing towards you) and working it around until you get it between the flange and the offending protrusion. It can take a long time, but you will usually (usually!) be able to get the lens off.</p>

<p>Courtesy Mark Roberts<br>

<a href="http://www.robertstech.com/compat.htm">http://www.robertstech.com/compat.htm</a></p>

<p>I see Nick named it first. </p>

<p><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVPpobmjXeA&feature=related">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVPpobmjXeA&feature=related</a></p>

<p>Well, I talked to my friend and it turns out she has the 7D, not the 5D.</p>

<p>She didn't have her camera with her when she visited, but she's pretty sure it gave her the Communications error. The Sigma was mounted on her camera and was working perfect the last time she used it. Then she swapped it out for a prime to do a school project. She put the big lens in its box and stored it in her closet while she used the prime. After the project, she switched them out again, and then got the communication error with the big lens.</p>

<p>The camera was turned off each time she changed lenses. As I said, the Sigma was practically new when I got it for her and has worked flawlessly - about a year - the very few times she's used it. I suggested she "erase" the contacts and try it again. Haven't heard anything as to how that worked.</p>

<p>Also, right after she bought the camera, she inserted what turned out to be a defective flash card - the contacts bent backwards inside the camera when she tried to remove it, and she had to send it in for repair. It's worked fine since with a new card, but is it possible another card issue might be involved? I know there are error messages specific to card problems, but still...</p>

<p>If cleaning the contacts doesn't work, I'm leaning toward a nice gently used Tamron (the new one is out of budget) except that I know from the pentaxusers forum, many people have an issue with CA from this lens over a variety of cameras. That's what pushed me to buy a Sigma instead for my K200D.</p>

<p>So which older Tamron 70-300 is best? I was once told to look for the LD or LI or DI or some such designation to get the good one?</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Thanks, folks! Good information to chew on. She's coming over tonight so we'll be running through all your suggestions.</p>

<p>The reason we're looking is that I bought the 5D owner a gold band Sigma APO 70-300mm last year for use on her 450D, and she found that she loves the daylights out of that focal range. Unfortunately, she left her car unlocked one day and someone helped themselves to the 450D, her iPod, and a couple other things. So she replaced the 450D with this 5D and she gets an error message when the Sigma is mounted on it. I don't know what that message is as I haven't seen it and she didn't say, but I will ask her when she comes over tonight.</p>

<p> As far as I know, neither the camera or the lens have been traumatized. I believe the Sigma is only 5 to 6 years old, and the 1990s Tokina Aspherical AF zoom she has works perfectly on the 5D. So shouldn't this Sigma work on it, too?</p>

<p>Thanks again!</p>

<p>I’ve been reading that the Canon 75-300 IQ is inferior to the IQ of the 70-300 (and you will pay for it) and that the main IQ complaint about the 75-300 is vignetting at the long end.</p>

<p>Does the 5D being a full frame camera have any positive/correcting effect on the 75-300 Canon or is this issue inherent in the lens itself?</p>

<p>Any other budget friendly recommendations (i.e., non-L glass) for a long zoom from 200 to 300mm? The 5D kit lenses were not included with the camera, but it seems the EF-S 55-250 kit lens is popular. Nikon glass would also be a consideration as there are adapters to use those lenses on the 5D, and the 5D owner shoots mainly in manual.</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>2012? Then I'm not alone in my poo-pooing the Mayan Apocalypse. Sweet!</p>

<p>Oh, and very nice work people! We get wintry cold where I'm at but never any snow worthy of mention, and I love snow - as long as it doesn't hang around too long.</p>

<p>I have 4 Vivitars – all Kiron or Komine made except an f2.8 135mm that came from a portrait studio. It’s M42 and not on The List (only a 6-digit serial number) so I have no way of knowing who manufactured it for Vivitar. It’s unique in that it has a wide chrome band around the front edge of the body of the lens. Vivitar made a ton of 135s, but I’ve yet to see another one like this one. It’s nice, too; very sharp, great colors, but requires a tri or chest pod.</p>

<p>I also have the Komine f2.8 28mm, a 35-105mm (does require a hood for best results and is painfully sharp!), and the 70-150 one-touch, all of which I love and regularly use on a K200D. All are keepers. (Vivitar was so ahead of its time.) But I really want a fast, medium telephoto prime for indoor use.</p>

<p>Never had a Tokina made Vivitar so wasn’t sure how they stacked up to the 22xx and 28xx lenses. I did once have a straight up Tokina 70-210 I used on a Nikon film camera. Small and easy to handle but it was slow, and I didn’t like the IQ or colors so much. Woefully subpar to the Vivitars I had for that same Nikon. And the Pentax-M would be incredibly easier to handhold.</p>

<p>Given the price the Pentax 100mm non-macro is commanding at present, I was hoping the Vivitar would be a decent and competitive alternative at a more palatable price than the Pentax. 85s and 90s continue to languish outside my budget at this time - but not entirely out of the question.</p>

<p>……Santa, Cutie, there's one thing I really do need; the deed to a platinum mine.</p>

<p>Thanks for your input!</p>

<p>Anyone have any experience with this screw mount lens? Definitely NOT the macro flavor.</p>

<p>SN beginning with 37 so Tokina made.</p>

<p>Other than improved coatings, how does it otherwise compare optically to the Pentax-M 100mm f2.8 non-macro?<br>

<br />Thanks!</p>

<p>"I just want to do something that is above me so I can basically say it was an experience and also illustrate that experience to the best of my ability and gain experience out of it and possibly a good way to get my name out there."<br>

_____________________________________</p>

<p>If this is your primary goal, as it appears to me to be, then I have to say you're doomed to fail before you ever get started. Like I once told my ex-husband - Can't you ever do anything just because it needs doing? Not because it will benefit you personally?</p>

<p>There are stories in less fortunate foreign countries - even here at home in the U.S.A. - of human suffering, sorrow, misery, loss, pain, degradation, humilation, hunger, starvation, loss of hope and even the will to live. Why don't you seem to want to tell those stories? Sounds to me like you're primarily after the glory and recognition you think you will personally acquire. </p>

<p>You not only need to rethink your physical mission; you need to rethink your motives.</p>

<p>By the way, since you're new to photography and want to get into it on a budget, do you absolutely have to have Nikon to begin with? 'Cause you just about can't go wrong with a Pentax K1000 for a totally manual starter camera. The better ones say Asahi Pentax and carry the Pentax logo on the prism.</p>

<p>They are plentiful, often come with at least two decent lenses, and don't sell for a whole lot of money, usually around $50 or less. And when you're ready to move on, you can usually recoup your initial costs when you sell it.<br>

Good luck!</p>

<p>Another good place to shop for used photo stuff is <a href="http://www.shopgoodwill.com">shopgoodwill.com</a>. Not saying you'll never get sniped there, but at least there are no listing fees, insertion fees, yada yada, the seller will hit you up for because the merchandise belongs to the Goodwill in the first place. Right now, they have 42 Nikon cameras and lenses and other stuff for Nikon currently running. It's always a surprise what they offer. I've even seen several Mamiya, Bronica, and Hassie MF outfits listed there! </p>

<p>Be aware, though. With the Goodwill auctions, you pays your dime, you takes your chances - there are never any guarantees. Everything is sold AS-IS. But I have gotten some really sweet deals there over the years. A NOS Canon AE-1 Program with lens and original leather hard case; same with a Nikon FG plus filters and new flash; and a beautifully preserved black Pentax KX. Never paid over $55 for any of them. Their shipping is fast and reliable, and besides - you know your money is going to a worthy cause with them.</p>

<p>I will warn you they aren't very good about responding to email questions, but you usually get enough decent photos of the items to make a reasonable judgment call.</p>

<p>The focus ring just behind the front glass seems to be a problem, and images from it on a Canon 7D are deemed by the user to be soft when enlarged beyond 8x10. Granted, those images were made and reviewed on the fly due to time contraints; however...</p>

<p>With the lens off-camera and the AF/MF switch in AF, the focus ring does not immediately engage. You have to turn it a short distance, you'll get two clicks, it "grabs" - becomes stiff to turn and you can hear gear movement. When you flip the switch to MF, the focus ring is freed up and offers no resistance whatsoever but unlike the Canon 28-105 f3.5-4.5 II USM I just bought, you cannot turn the Tokina's focus ring infinitely. The Tokina ring is limited to only 1 full turn around the lens circumference back and forth. The lens is in very nice cosmetic condition; no signs of maltreatment or trauma.</p>

<p>This isn't "the" lens I bought, but it's the same lens I have:</p>

<p><a href="http://tinyurl.com/3wfe84v"><strong>http://tinyurl.com/3wfe84v</strong></a></p>

<p>Very happy to hear good news about the Canon lens! Appreciate all the responses!</p>

<p>Girlfriend will be in town today with her 7D so will see how she likes it. And I'll get to watch how the Tokina behaves on-camera and see what it produces. too.</p>

<p>Oh, thank you, both for the reassurance and your response!</p>

<p>Is it likely the Tokina I mentioned works the same way and isn't broken after all? She didn't really spend much time playing with it; just took a half dozen shots at Auto and pronounced it "soft" when the photos were bumped to 8 x 10. Perhaps she could've touched those images up with the focus ring, like with this Canon. There's no operational info out there about the Tokina, either.</p>

<p>Thanks again!</p>

<p>Just received this lens (Taiwan flavor; bought off eBay, reputable seller but No Return policy unless not as described) and have a question about it. </p>

<p>There is a skinny knurled plastic ring on it just above the AF/MF switch that moves the distance indicator in the window next to that switch. (Focus ring?) It moves the dial in the window from infinity to MACRO and back, and you can feel and hear when it "hits" both extremes of the scale. But the ring doesn't stop turning at either of those points. You can turn it around and around and around the lens as often as you want.</p>

<p>I Googled for the User Guide for this lens but came up empty.</p>

<p>Is this ring supposed to function like that or shouldn't it stop at each extreme of the scale? </p>

<p>My son's girlfriend needs it this weekend, and she lives a couple hours away at this time so it can't be tested until Thursday when she comes to visit. I know little of Canon and own Pentax so I can't test it myself. I so hope this isn't broken because it's cosmetically immaculate, and I really don't have time now to find another. I've already been disappointed once by a lovely Tokina 28-105 that turned out to have a disengaged focus ring, which is what I'm fearing is going on with this Canon, too. If so, is a repair costly and/or worth it? (Paid $150 for it; the cheapest one listed at the time.) (The Tokina was a gift so we might look into whether it's worth repairing.)</p>

<p>Also, is there any way to narrow down what year this Canon lens was produced?</p>

<p>TIA!</p>

<p>Andrew:</p>

<p>To "print screen", open Lightroom to the screen Scott mentioned. Look at your keyboard. At the right end of the F key row are three keys marked Prt Scrn / Sys Rq, Scroll Lock, and Pause/Break.</p>

<p>While Lightroom is open to the screen Scott said, press the Prt Scrn / Sys Rq key one time. This copies the screen you're currently viewing.</p>

<p>Open your Microsoft Paint program (its listed in Accessories in your Start Menu).</p>

<p>Click Edit / Paste. Voila. A screen shot of the Lightroom screen.</p>

<p>Save it somewhere as a jpg, then post it here.</p>