micha__stachowski

<p>It worked, thanks a lot PF!</p>

<p>Thanks, Ill definitely give it a try, its just weird that it happens with one lens and not another I would have though that when its stuck its stuck... </p>

 

<p>Hi,<br /> Something weird is happening with my wife's t2i, when she has her kit lens attached (Canon 18-135mm) built in flash pops out and fires, if she attaches any of my lenses (we've tried 24-70 and 16-35) the flash does not even pop up (all other setting equal) - we are pressing the pop-up flash button not just waiting for it to pop up by itself so its not 'brighter lens' explenation.</p>

<p>On top of that the in-camera flash settings are not accessible (with my lenses) and a message (I'm paraphrasing) "External flash is attached - can't use built in flash", all of them are accessible with her kit lens.</p>

<p>Any ideas?</p>

<p>Hi all,<br>

Could you recommend a backpack that will be good for skiing? <br>

I will be holding quite a bit of gear in it (5d, at least 3 lenses - lets say 70-200 and 24-70, 16-35 and a flash + cards, batteries, energy bar and so on).<br>

The backpack has to be comfortable, and easy to get my gear in and out quickly, while providing very good protection against elements... and the vary occasional (keeping my fingers crossed) tumble. I don't want something too big as I'm am going to ski in it most of the day. <br>

A tripod attachment (a very secure one - nobody wants to be hit with a tripod leg while skiing) would be a BIG plus.<br>

I realize I might be looking for a unicorn here ;) </p>

<p>Thanks in advance,<br>

Michał </p>

<p>hehe, at wirst I was like 'gosh, no way', and then my faith in humanity was temporarily restored =)<br>

Thanks for that I needed it!</p>

<p>If memory serves, You can find a gallery of 7D pictures with different lenses/settings (even full size files) on dpreview. But I have to ask the same as Wofl:<br>

Why, Dani ? To what end ? (if only to satisfy my curiosity ;] )</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

You might consider reading this:<br>

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/essays/irish-nocturne.shtml<br>

I found it very instructive.</p>

<p>Happy Shooting,<br>

Michal</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

For all those that come here to look for a solution to a similar problem, it's as simple as setting your region/language to US/English and then everything runs smoothly - I guess x-rite believes the rest of the world does not calibrate their screens ;)<br>

Happy shooting!<br>

Michał</p>

<p>Thanks Howard,<br>

My laptop is a fresh system with just adobe creative suite cs4 on it, no other devices/drivers except what comes on with os (camera is also not plugged in). - do you know if there is a way to go back to 10.5.5 without redoing the whole setup?<br>

I did not check the console log - will research into it (any good links?) and see if I can make out anything from that.<br>

Michał</p>

<p>Hi everybody,<br>

I just purchased the i1 Diplay 2 form x-rite. I have 2 mac's (os 10.5.6) I'm using for editing (Macbook PRO (clean install with just Adobe Studio on it) and Mac Pro with HP LP2475w).<br>

Out of the box on both computers the i1 Match crashes. I went to x-rite's site and downloaded the newest version of their software, now I can run the program but when I try to start the calibration process (either Easy or Advanced) it crashes. Same situation on both macs.<br>

I tryed the i1Diagnostics and I am able to run this and verify that my calibrator is working and within specs, again tested on both macs...<br>

Did any of you have a similar problem? any ideas on how to solve this?<br>

Thanks!<br>

Michał</p>

<p>In my experience (I own/ed 10D/40D/5D) for fast moving subject center is best, and If light (amount of) is not perfect center point is the only way to go. Unfortunately you might be forced to do some cropping later on.<br>

A alot depands on your lens here (USM, F/stop etc) and subject matter (amount of contrast, size/distance from the object and speed).<br>

Don't be afrid to experiment though, ymmv :)<br>

Happy Shooting!<br>

Michał</p>

 

<p>First of all I do not own this product, so this is just my opinion.. but looking at the flash base contacts* I would say no ETTL.<br>

*look at all those smaller contacts on your flash/camera - thats what flash and camera use to talk to each other and make the ETTL magic happen, the number of contacts on this device makes me think its only a trigger device.. Also the on-camera-trigger uses a pc cable, which is further evidence.</p>

<p>If what I suspect is true I would really recommend looking at some cheep radio releses as they will work the same but let you position the flash head more freely.</p>

<p>Happy shooting!<br>

Michal</p>

 

<p>Just looked around and there is an off-brand device like TC-80N3 at 1/3 cost that looks like it would do the job very well. Search for Timer Remote C3 for Canon on *bay type sites... <br>

I heve no clue how well it works however, I would be surprised though if someone around here is not using it already.<br>

Again, happy shooting!<br>

<i>Michal</i></p>

<p>You can do it, but you will need additional equipment to do so. These are your options</p>

 

<ul>

<li>If you are in a studio setting use Canon's software and shoot threaded to a computer, works very well.</li>

<li>If you are thinking about outdoor shooting or simply can not shoot threaded there is a little thing cannon makes called: TC-80N3.</li>

</ul>

<p>But keep looking there might be something I have not heard of ;)<br>

Happy Shooting!<br>

<i>Michal</i></p>

<p>Hi Lisa,<br>

 

 

<p>You have not mentioned what camera you are using. If you own a crop factor Canon dslr (x00D/x0D series) you would have to multiply the focal length of the lens by 1.6 (so your 50mm becomes 80mm). Another thing we should know to give you a good answer is a more exact size of your studio. <br>

Here is a small attempt to answer your question:</p>

 

</p>

<ul>

<li>The smaller the focal length (mm) the wider the angle of view gets (anything below 35 would be considered wide) - normal lenses are around 50mm and 70mm and up is considered tele (high magnification).</li>

<li>The reason that most people favor the 70-200 (200 being a bit long for my preferences) is that different focal lengths change the way the image is rendered on your sensor. For example 24mm lens (on a full frame camera like 5d and 1Ds) exaggerates perspective a bit - in classic portraiture it would elongate some features of the face (nose for example) and make it appear a bit more 3d if you will), a 70mm-135mm lens on the other hand (again talking full frame) would flatten the perspective a bit thus making most faces more appealing.</li>

</ul>

<p>There is quite a bit I could write about it (and others here could probably write a book on the subject)... I would strongly suggest that you get a good basic-photography book, it will have the answers for your questions.</p>

<p>Happy Shooting!</p>

<p>I can't talk much about the difference between the models (except that only the LP2475w is an IPS monitor) as I own just one of them.</p>

<p>However as a VERY happy owner of the LP2475w I would greatly recommend it to anyone. Out of the box color accuracy was a bit lacking but after calibrating it really does a great job, viewing angles are very good (I often have clients looking along side with me), proofing is as easy as it gets now so that makes me very =)=)=)</p>

<p>One thing that ppl don't talk to much in reviews about is the color accuracy at varying brightness settings - this screen shines in that aspect, it might or might not be useful to you but that is something that is important to people that work in different light conditions or people (like me) that like to turn the brightness relatively low for sake of their eyes).</p>

<p>Overal I find it's the best price/performance screen at this price point. Is it better then the top-of-the-line Eizo? Probably not, on the other hand remember about the law of diminishing returns ;)</p>

<p>Good luck, and happy shooting,<br>

Michal </p>

 

Hi all,

 

I have a (just about) 2yr old 5d. Lately I started having some problems with focusing, thiking it might be lens related

problems I tested this with 3 other ones (16-35, 24-70 and 70-200) it seems that the probhlem remains no

matter which I choose.

 

Focusing problems accure only in lower contrast scenes (but not very-low contrast which can be problematic for the

bast cameras so I made sure to chose my test scene carefully) - I know It used to focus no peoblem on things like

gradianted mountain veiw, now it hounts in very little steps - not from front to back of the f. rage but jumps +/- 10%

and evencually achives focus after a few sec of work.

 

I know I can focus on more contrasty part of the image and recompose, but thats not the point - it used to be able to

focus, now it cant.

 

My question is - could it simply be dust on the focusing sensor (which I or canon could clean) or maybe (but I just

cant belive this) focus sensors loose their sensitivity over time.

 

Thanks for your help and sorry for any misspelled words.

 

Michal

 

PS. I did try to clean lens/camera contacts, they appear to be in tip-top shape.

Hi Kathy,

 

I would recommend buying either the Canon 10-22 or Sigma 10-20. If you were

already considering spending a larger sum (you mention thinking about buying the

16-35L), I would go with the canon lens without a doubt in my mind.

 

Why not the 16-35 you ask? Because on your friends 40D it will become a "not so

wide to normal lens" as 40D sized sensors have 1.6 crop factor (you have to

multiply the number on the lens by 1.6 to get the actual mm) so the L becomes

effectively 25.6 to 56mm - wide but not THAT wide...

 

Another thing to consider is his shooting style, based on his present lens he is OK

with slower aperture (you might have heard about it as "fast/slow lens"). for example

if his thing is landscape then 10-22 is more then fine if he (as I do) likes low

light/street photography a "fast" lens is almost a must have...

 

Hope that helps a little bit..

Good Luck!

I would 2nd Yakim's post - you really should look into buying/renting/borrowing an UWA. If

you are going to places like Patagonia, Iguazu - you will wish you had something wider than

27/28 mm

 

Have a great time on your trip!

Michal

Hello,<br>

I don't see a reason why any 8gb card should not work in your 5d.<br>

My 2c - I use Transend 16gb 133x CF and love it especially for the price 76.99 from

newegg.com<br><br>

Happy shooting!

What you are seeing is light reflections on the filter - somewhat similar to what happens

when you get light rays shining directly on your lens (flare) - I'm sure somebody here will be

able to explain it better...

I use the same camera/lens combination and I have noticed that for night scenes like this

taking of the UV/protective filter helps enormously.

I would like to add that in portraiture and art photography (and in many other areas) you often want a shallow DOF. 2.8 will allow you for a bit shallower DOF then 4, also if you use manual focus it is a god-sent.