mark_williamson6

<p>I use the AF-On button exclusively. It becomes second nature after about a day of shooting. I think it allows me to have more control over focus in fast situations. I can hit the AF-On button, focus, and then take my finger off of the shutter button and the camera is still focused at the distance I want it at. I can recompose and move to a different angle if I choose and I don't have to concentrate on holding the shutter button "half-way" down.</p>

<p>I have the D300. I love it because of the crop factor and the resulting reach. Plus it is reasonably priced. But after I bought it, I realized that my 18-70 glass wasn't good enough. I have spent twice the price of the camera in new glass and have at least one more $$$ lens to buy.<br>

I agree with Joe. Buy some good glass first. Maybe a 50 1.4 prime to start with. They are fairly inexpensive and a good starting place. But if you have to get a camera, really consider what you need. According to what you have said, the D300 would do, buy only you really know what you need.</p>

<p>Calumet also has a tripod similar to Bogen 3221 for about $100. It's the Calumet 7500. Heavy, but VERY sturdy. Take a look.</p>

<p>Careful with the Pocket Wizards. I have read and heard some reviews that say that the distance claim is WAY short of reality. Take a look at the Pro Photo Show podcast site.<br>

Radio Poppers seem to get good reviews.<br>

I went to Samy's Camera in SoCal and they had a good radio remote control for about $100. The brand name is RPS Studio. Fits into the 10 pin connector of my D300. I've used it from 10-15 yard and it works great, but I don't know the actual longest range.<br>

Hope this helps.</p>

I haven't tried the non-VR 105 or the 105 f4, but I LOVE my 105 VR 2.8.

You might want to look at the Lowepro Primus AW. I have one and love it. The bag fits well, is fairly light and has a separate compartment to keep lunch, jackets, accessories, etc.

 

It looks like a regular day pack, but you can reach around your right side and slip the camera right out. It takes some practice, but I had it down to an art after about a week.

 

Also, you can get access to the bag by slipping your arms out of the straps while leaving the belt attached and rotating it around your body. The bag never needs to leave the security of your body.

 

I think it will hold a 70-200. At least I hope it will as that is my next glass purchase.

Michael is right. I have a D300 and am buying glass like my next camera is full frame. I am also buying the fastest, best glass they make. I got the camera because the D70 I had was gray market and was starting to get some questionable quirks. Now I want good glass. Lenses last almost forever if you take good care of them. Bodies will become obsolete withing five years.

 

Get the glass.

I don't have a good sample picture to post, but I do have the lens. It was on a D70 and now on a D300.

 

Up to about 200mm, it is pretty good, but after that.....not so much. Soft. Very soft.

 

The macro feature is 1:2. Good, but my next glass purchase will be a Nikkor 105 2.8 VR. Also, it is 4-5.6 which makes it kind of hard to use in low light.

 

If you are looking for a good starting lens, this is not bad. You can get some great shots, but when you examine them up close you will want more.

 

Am I disappointed with my lens? No. I has served me well in my learning period. But I think I am ready for better glass.

 

I hope this helped.

I agree that you need to go shoot and be self critical, but it is always nice to have a starting point on how to do the work in the beginning. An athlete doesn't just go out and try things until they find something that works, they are taught how the skills and then they go out and use them in games and practices.

 

I am not sure how much you can "teach" people creativity, but I know I have learned a lot about composition through books and reading.

 

I would second Shaw's book mentioned by Juergen.

 

Read and then shoot an be self-critical.

Obviously, the answer is to take it out of your daughter's allowance. How else is she going to learn to be responsible for her actions?

 

Sorry, I couldn't resist. :)

I also like to leave my camera in a "ready" state.

 

I always use CL release mode at 3fps, because as Anthony said, CH is just too sensitive for normal shooting. I like Matrix metering for general, grab and shoot stuff. I still use the shutter release to focus, although I am playing with the AF-ON button as the focus button.

 

Usually, my 18-70, 3.5-4.5 is on the camera, but I change that if I know that where I will be could require something different. (Sports, wildlife, etc.)

 

I almost never change the ISO off of 200, but with the D300, I may start trying some higher settings.

 

Then I set all of the modes to the following: Aperture: f11; Shutter: 1/125; Manuel: 1/125, f11 and then I leave it on Program mode. I agree with Anthony that 1/250 might be better, but I like the starting points that I have.

 

It is in program mode so that I can grab and shoot, but the others are at a good baseline for me to change to quickly and be ready to shoot if I need to in those modes.

 

I hope this helps.

I always have a UV filter on the front of my lens. I buy it at the same time as the lens. Reason? I know that something will happen that will cause damage to the front of the lens eventually. I can always take the filter off if I need a really "clean" image, but I like the idea of the extra protection.

 

Also, I think it protects the threads that the filters screw into. I have seen a lot of lens that you can't screw a filter onto anymore because the edge has been damaged or bent. I think (hope) the filter will prevent that.

 

Just my two cents. But the debate will go on. :)

I am a firm believer of the Lowepro Primus AW. I like the ability to reach behind my back and pull out my camera without taking off the backpack. Once you get used to how the camera exits and enters the bag, it becomes second nature.

 

The bottom half will hold a camera with a 70-200 f2.8 attached (by my estimation) and two other lenses. The top half will hold some accessories and personal gear (jackets, lunches, and such). It also has a storage area in the front of the bag for other things. The bag opens from the back so all you have to do is swing it around your body and you can pull out what you need.

 

I took it hiking in the Red Rock State Park (CA) area and took a pretty good fall on my @$$. The bag took a good shot and still protected the gear.

 

I am not sure it is for everyone, but I think you should really look into this bag for hiking. It won't work for backpacking, but it does work for hiking.

 

Good luck.

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I got the opportunity to use a Sigma 10-20mm lens. I used it to take pictures of sculptures around a city. It was GREAT for getting the entire piece of artwork in the frame yet removing the background clutter.

 

I had to really think about the composition of the image and had to work to find a suitable view point, but it was worth it. I opened it up wide and got really close to the artwork. That eliminated most of the distortion and got the whole piece in frame.

 

The Sigma 10-20mm is on my short list of desired lenses. There is definitely a difference between 10 and 18mm in lenses.

I found a site a long time ago that covered this: http://www.its.caltech.edu/~atomic/snowcrystals/

 

Specifically, this page: http://www.its.caltech.edu/~atomic/snowcrystals/photo2/photo2.htm

 

The guy even makes his own snowflakes.

 

I kind of wish it snowed here so I could try it.

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