pgavalis

<p>Hello Kyle! I did a year or two of track/field and indoor competitive cheer with the K3. I will be the first to admit that there seems to be some, but not a lot, of focusing glitches. The more I used it, the more I understood what it can do and what settings would be best. 99% of my track pics are hand held only because I like the freedom to run about. That being said, I will be doing it again this year and will absolutely bring my monopod because after critiquing my pics, I feel the ONLY thing missing is 1 extra helping hand to make me completely satisfied. </p>

<p>I would not shy away from the K3 based only on internet opinions and reviews. It is a durable beast with a small form factor with a pretty high FPS rate. I took hundreds of pics in the rain with zero protection, only to look back at the "pro" Cannon/Nikon shooters under tarps, umbrellas and gear covered with plastic wrap and bags. AND they were stationary while I was walking around freely with no worries and getting more original/creative angles of view. </p>

<p>I do have a few samples in my portfolio, they are not the best of the best (those are saved for the parents/athletes), but it will at least give you an idea of it's capabilities. I considered leaving the Pentax line but came right back and I can't wait for this spring and another Track season. You always get better with experience!</p>

<p>Hope this helps even if you have already made up your mind. </p>

<p>Thanks guys. It was more of a lingering thought I had, rather than a specific problem or immediate issue, but I see your points. Thanks again!</p>

<p>Great thread! Great images! Wish I had some to share.</p>

<p>Please bear with me on this. I haven't found an answer on Google so I am going to try this here.</p>

<p>When taking a photo, are there converse or similar settings to obtain the same image resolution? For instance, leaving DOF out of it, is an image taken at ISO100-1/100thsec-f4 similar in resolution to a photo taken at ISO100-f8-1sec? I'm just using imaginary numbers here but does anybody understand what I am asking? Does a longer shutter allow more information into the image, making it a "better" image? Or does it allow for the intro of more artifacts making it lesser desired image? </p>

<p>This again, may have to do with my math skills or maybe I'm just talking nonsense. But I am very curious because it seems to me that with a longer shutter one could capture 'more' of the image and a faster shutter seems like a "cheap/lazy" alternative? </p>

<p>This was probably covered in Photography 101 but I have no fear when it comes to asking questions! This has been bugging me for a few years now and I need to know! I am not trying to start a debate here, if that's even possible with this question. Nor am I trying to get into which camera is best, lens, etc... Strictly trying to get to the basic elements of the question. Or maybe it is completely subjective?...just talking out loud here.</p>

<p>Okay Okay....my bad. Yes, laziness took over and I am very much talking about step-up/down rings and I think with ALL of your help I am good to go. Sorry about that...as much as I love photography, I don't pay much attention to technically proper terminology as long as I know what I mean :)</p>

<p>And John, you nailed it! The flat/plain flange were for the filters, which I JUST found in a drawer. I was totally dumbfounded but, it was a bad year. </p>

<p>Thanks again for your help! Now I am about to open up another can of worms with another post. Sigh.</p>

<p>Thanks Stephen! I understand/remember the vignetting now. The adapters I have are one sided, with thread only to the rear with no other sizes on them, i.e.. 52mm, and that's it. </p>

<p>So am I safe in saying that I need adapters ranging in size from a 67 to 49, 67 to 52, 67 to 58 etc?</p>

 

<p>Please don't judge...so I am bad at simple math or conversions when it comes to lenses and adapters.<br>

I currently have lens sizes:<br>

49mm, 52, 58, and 77.<br>

I have filter sizes:<br>

49, 58, 67. The 67's were not cheapo. </p>

<p>Can someone PLEASE tell me what filter adapter sizes I need to maximize my use for the filters/lenses I have? Can I use smaller filters on bigger lenses? If so, what are my limits? And Vice/Versa? Yes, I know it may seem simple to most of you but I get lost in translation, so to speak. </p>

<p>I also found a set of K&F adapter rings from 52-77mm with a single thread on them and have zero clue as to how to use them and/or can't even remember why I bought them. Seriously, I feel very insecure right now and as much as I enjoy sarcasm and friendly banter, please keep it simple...but feel free to express yourselves;)</p>

<p> </p>

<p>It's truly a great camera. I ended up with the Pentax 50/2.8 macro and opted for a Sigma 17-50/2.8 over the 20-40/2.8-4. I also have an old Hanimex 75-150/3.9 that is super sharp and is fairly light/compact, perfect for this body. I love them all so far but shooting has been limited due to weather and holidays. Hoping for a break here soon but Michigan weather, is, well, you know. I also have to say that the Yongnuo 560IV's and the TX controller is absolute genius. Had 3 flashes up and synced within 15 minutes. Truly an awesome system and for the money, I don't think it can be beat. </p>

<p>I am also seeking a 'dedicated' wide angle or very low profile lens for street photography or a quick grab n' go lens that is lighter than my current lenses. I <em>think </em>my best/safest choice might be the 50/1.8 for price and performance?? It's been awhile since I had one and can't remember how loud/fast the focusing was. The Sigma 17-50 is soooooo quiet and fast that I think comparing it to the 50/1.8 might be unfair. Anybody agree or disagree with this choice? I'm open to other suggestions but looking to keep it under $200/used. WR would be a bonus. </p>

<p>Can't wait to get my hands on it tomorrow!</p>

<p>Hello Everyone! It's been awhile. I just thought I would stop in and share my excitement about my latest purchases! <br>

**In the past year I unloaded all of my Pentax gear: K3, 60-250, Tammy 17-50, numerous old manual gems, flashes, and I have my MX-1 on the auction site right now. It was a very solid collection. Why did I do this? Well I was in a creative funk and lost all interest in being serious about photography. In the past two weeks or so I felt the itch to get back into it...and it was a serious itch. I looked back at some old photos and realized I never really took my skills and creativity to the next level. Partially because I got caught up in volunteering my time for my daughter's track squad, going to every meet to take pics of every single athlete for the school website. Basic skills but somewhat demanding. I loved every second of it and will do it again for the next couple of years. However after sorting through several hundred shots 2-3 times/week, it was getting tedious and I felt like I was in a creative black hole. I was also a little tired of the Pentax gear so I made a clean break.<br>

**When this itch came back I thought I would see what was out there. And I discovered this mirrorless "craze". Yes, I was aware of the technology but once I dug deeper I became entranced in learning everything possible. Yip, the dreaded tornado of information, reviews, videos, ratings...and it sucked me right in, again. <em>I seriously spent 8 straight hours one day just clicking and reading and watching!!!</em> After my semester of research I was confident I was going to end up with either a Fuji XT-1, an Oly 5Mii, or a Samsung NX-1. Out comes my legal pad with columns of pros/cons, little stars, side notes, smiley faces, dollar $igns, website scores and a roadmap of arrows. I know you all have been there!! And just so I didn't limit myself to the mirrorless systems, I added a couple more columns (the 7dii and the K3ii), but they were mere underdogs.<br>

**What I wanted: a compact/light WR system that is good for travel, hiking, street photography, sports, wildlife, stills, portraits... so yeah, <em>EVERYTHING</em>, with video only as a perk/bonus. (add in several late nights, dreams, deal hunting, budget re-calculations, and reality checks here) <br>

**What I learned: <strong>Mirrorless is NOT in my budget!</strong> An average of $3k for a body and two top-notch zooms! But mirrorless is in my future, that I am sure of. I am a laggard, not an early adopter. For example, I just got my first iPhone and Macbook in this past year; I am glad I waited and I could not be happier. I could not find more than a handful of top quality posts using mirrorless for sports/fast moving wildlife. That, to me, is a red flag.<br>

Everything else mirrorless can do seems to be incredible (considering how new it is). So after counting out any of the 3 mirrorless systems I was down to the K3 and 7DII (<em>with an eyeroll and heavy sigh</em>). The 7DII auto-focusing and shutter speed...WOW! That seems right up my alley since I was rather disappointed with my K3/60-250 combo more often than not. I was getting about 50-60% hits during every event but when it hit, it hit gooooood. Back to the 7D. It had every feature I needed BUT: OIS in lens, $$ for top level lenses, and with the last Canon I owned, WR and tough or not, I was always scared to bring it out in iffy weather. It is also not very compact. And again, the $$$. <br>

**I guess by now you know where this is headed. Yup, the K3II. What I realized I loved about ALL of my Pentax bodies (from the K10-K3 with many in between), is that I could trust it to do just about everything, everywhere, every time. It was like a safety net. I was never afraid to take it anywhere. It's very compact, especially with a pancake. It's relatively light. And the K3 just felt like it belonged in my hand. I held dozens of bodies (cameras) and nothing compared to the feel of the K3. I was already familiar with the system; why learn a new DSLR system when I will eventually end up with a mirrorless? Did I mention the durability and image quality, low light ability, in body IS, awesome old manual glass that can be had for cheap, top of the line Weather Sealing, and now the pixel shift, GPS, Wifi (although I won't use it), WR HD lenses, etc?<br>

**My Christmas present: K3II ($730...<strong>$730!!!, are you kidding me?!!</strong>), 3 YongNuo IV's (LOVE them) and Transmitter ($240), 50mm/2.8 ($175), and a HD 20-40/2.8-4 ($500). <strong>Total: $1,645!!! All of that for about the price of ONE of the other bodies and ONE primo lens!! </strong>Yes I could have <em>stepped down</em> to a used K2/K5 but for $700 NEW?!! With that price I already know that I will KEEP the K3II and one or two decent lenses even when I dive into the mirrorless world. I will pick up a used 50-135/2.8 in the spring since I know it will be more than sufficient for the upcoming track season. The 60-250 just got too heavy and since I have access to the whole track, I really didn't need the extra reach. And if I decide to get more into wildlife, I may just grab the new 1.4x adapter for it. I will also eventually grab a used DA-L 18-50 and/or the new HD 55-300 for any taxing outdoor adventures. So excluding the 50-135 and flashes, that is a very compact and inexpensive system IMO. <br>

So ends my journey. I just thought I would share this adventure since I feel there might be many others out there looking to make the leap and I am VERY PUMPED with what I got for the money invested! Welcome back old friend(s). Regards, Pete.</p>

<p>Thanks for your opinions. Maybe it was the time I took on some of the older shots, or maybe I just see something in some of them I prefer...who knows. Not worth me worrying...just makes me want to shoot more and more with these newer lenses. Still lots to learn. Thanks, Pete.</p>

<p>Just looking for other opinions. I have been going through some of my old pics in my portfolio and have noticed an odd pattern. I seem to like many more of my images that were taken with the older Pentax manual lenses (even some of the cheapo third-party brands) on the digital body.<br>

I'm assuming I like some of the manual lens images better because I took way more time to compose and focus instead of just rapid fire and move on. Some seem to have much more pleasant bokeh and depth/richness in color. Maybe I haven't played enough with the two new lenses (Tammy 28-75 and Rokinon 8mm) and I almost always try to shoot everthing in M mode...am I missing something or is there just no fair way to compare the Manual vs. Digital lens, or even mimic the look of the images with the new lenses?<br>

Not to say I don't LOVE the versatility and speed of the newer lenses but does anyone else feel the same way about your own images? I am now regretting unloading my older manual lenses to help fund the newer ones and will slowly be picking up some oldies again.</p>

<p>I have been gone for quite some time now...lost interest in many hobbies but decided to pick up the K5iiS, a Tammy 28-75 and a Rokinon 8mm Fisheye...a couple flashes, some filters, and get my butt back outside! Glad to see many familiar names and some great work out there! Regards, Pete.</p>

<p>AWESOME!</p>

<p>Thanks folks. It was the 'custom setting' I overlooked. My "it's finally here" excitement got the better of me!</p>

<p>Hello all. I have to confess. I took a 2 year leave of absence from Pentax and tried Canon. Jeers and sneers expected and accepted! I do have a question though. I just purchased the K5 (and no longer own any Canon products). A problem I have with it is the 'focus beep' when using an old Takumar lens. I did not have this problem with the K20d. I could slap on a lens, turn the focus ring, and the camera would ALWAYS let me know when something was in focus. I cannot get this function to work on the K5. Am I missing something or has this incredible feature now gone kapoof!? Do I really have to rely on my failing eyesight to perform this task? Please help. Regards, Pete.<br>

ps. this camera is AWESOME!</p>

<p>I look at photos on this sight every week. Some grab my eye, others seem like copycat images. I've said this before...in many other words. If ONE person likes any ONE of my photos, then I succeeded. If THOUSANDS of people like it, I still succeeded...it might just be more mainstream, popular, current, emotional, acceptable, technically accurate, etc. Sometimes compostion beats technicalities. Sometimes popularity wins over emotions. Sometimes originality wins over composition, etc.</p>

<p> Every day changes your outlook and opinions on everything..not just your opinion of a photo or what is considered a "7" now as opposed to a "7" four years ago. I used to think PG movies are acceptable for everyone....12 years later, plus one daughter, there are PG movies I watched 10-20 times that I would not let my daughter watch, but they are still just as good to me. But there are also PG-13 movies out today that I don't hesitate to let her watch, that are also just as good as my fav PG movies from when I was growing up. I don't think you stumbled onto any life-altering philosophies or benchmarks...IMO you are just human.</p>

<p>Thanks for the replies! I am using the 7d and will be giving it another go this afternoon. I will let you know if/how it works.</p>

<p>Hello all. I received a Sunpak DSU-01 for Christmas (it must have been on my "wish list") and I am having difficulty setting up my 580EXII and Vivitar 285HV with this unit. Is it even possible? My goal is to use BOTH the 580 and 285 OFF camera...can I do that? Do I have to use the 580 ON camera with the Sunpak and 285 OFF camera? Is my goal possible with these 3 units?<br>

The most simplified answer/set-up explanation is going to be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks, Pete.</p>

<p>Thanks, Peter. Incredibly simple and I will be adopting the same rule of thumb.</p>

<p>Thanks to all for your input. Looks like I will be eating PBJ's and noodles for a few months with the 2.8 on the horizon. Great insights. Thanks again.</p>

<p>Scott, Mendel, Mark, thanks. The IS would be for the portraits, still life, etc....understood. Second guessing, maybe..probably. But, there are a couple good deals available for the f/4 (used) for well under $1k, with a significant jump for the 2.8...and I could use that extra coin for peripherals like paper, ink, softbox, a third flash/lightsource, etc.. I should probably just rent one of each and decide from there but was taking the lazy and cheapo path...hoping for that 'one great decision making opinion'.....HA! I know you have all been there at one time or another! Cool camera and incredible..err, CRAZY menu and learning curve with this Canon system! Just when I thought I knew everything about a camera (Pentax k20d) I go and do something like this and feel like I never took a photo before!</p>

<p>Thanks to both...my intentions would be prints and most likely some web images. Nothing outrageously large at the moment...printing from my Epson 1280, possibly something larger from Mpix if someone wants one. The more I think about it the more I feel I am just going to end up with the 2.8, but was hoping for some 7d angel to show me I can get away with the f/4 for awhile.</p>

<p>Greetings all. Recently made a huge switch from Pentax to Canon (7D). I WILL be purchasing one of the above lenses. Budget is of some concern but I am wondering...since this camera is so good at higher ISO's, will the f/4l be sufficient for high school gym sports and/or evening sports on the 7d? I will be using it for some portraits as well. I am fully aware of the IQ these lenses are capable of, as well as the price differential and the benefits of 2.8 over 4 but I am trying to be as frugal as possible, if possible. I ended up getting the kit lens (28-135) which seems like a fun all purpose lens and as mentioned, will be getting one of the lenses in question along with an 85mm. So I am just curious if I could get by with the f/4 or should I sell the kit lens and go all out for the 2.8? I.S. on either is a must for me. Anyone have samples using the f/4 on the 7d in the conditions I mentioned? Figured this was safe to post since it is a camera/lens specific question. Thanks, Pete.</p>

<p>I went through the same thought process, research and dilemmas that you are posing now, with the exact lenses...then I listened to the helpful folks in here and took their advice, 'just do it'. After days and hours of scouring the web for info, reviews, sample images, etc...I had enough.</p>

<p>I bought the Tamron from Norman Camera, used it for an entire day, and took it back in the morning to exchange it with the Sigma--with no problems or questions at all. As a matter of fact when I walked in, and before I said anything at all, the clerk said, "too slow for you and you want the Sigma?"</p>

<p> I found a completely different experience with the hunting issues on the Tamron. The Tamron had a VERY difficult time focusing on football players under the lights and even had a difficult time with stationary people in lower light. It drove me NUTS! Maybe it was a bad copy, who knows, but I used the Sigma the very next night under the very same conditions and did not have a single issue, nor have I since. But, that is only my experience and I am sure you have discovered everything I discovered when I was in your position which is...<em>there is no definitive answer on which lens is better!</em></p>

<p>My initial reason for purchasing the Tamron was the $$, $100 less and the warranty was ridiculous and hard to pass up...if I remember it was something like 6 years? A very hard offer to pass on but I am very happy with the Sigma. I used it on the K20. I really don't think it will matter too much what brand you choose. If what you are using makes you happy, then you have the right one and if you can't find a retailer willing to exchange it after a day or two, then I would look elsewhere.</p>