darren_sandford

It could be the capacitor that went pop. The goo in them could account for the residue.

My understanding is that if a lens is "designed for digital" and mounted on a full-frame camera, then the IQ of the image area out of the 1.6 crop area will be poor - dark, soft or distorted.

 

Is that right?

Please please -please- be careful when opening a flash. I still have two scars on my thumb from where I inadvertantly touched the two capacitor terminals.

The XT and XTi support a trigger voltage of up to 250V, unlike the older models which do only support 6V maximum. That may give you more scope to choose something!

Duane, do you work for Pentax, or do you have a real dislike for Canon?

 

Your post history certainly implies one or the other...

Sounds completely broken, and possibly dangerous! You should send it to me for proper disposal. ;)

C'mon people, it's Christmas!

 

To be fair, the lens may have been bought second-hand without a manual, and the original poster may not know where to look on the front of the lens to see the filter diameter.

 

Just in case the question actually was "Where do I find the filter diameter on my lens?", I have copied the following line from wikipedia's article on filters http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filter_(photography) :

 

'Filter diameter for a particular lens is commonly identified on the lens face by the ligature "ø". For example, a lens marking may indicate "ø 55mm."'

@Colin:

 

The EXIF appears to be stripped out of that image. Did you perform any retouching?

The Whi-Bal card is great quality and I would recommend them, but it is NOT a 18% gray card. They say as much on the site. So if you get one, use it for white balance, not for exposure metering.

My 400D, when the lens is set to manual mode and I focus manually with the button half-pressed, the focus confirmation lights -do- light up when a point is in focus.

I read somewhere (or it was in a dream) that the S of EF-S stands for "Short-back focus" (or maybe just "short", so you get "Electro Focus - short".

 

Don't know if it's true, and to be honest, it doesn't really change the way it works, but I thought I would throw that in there to go with the rest!

I bought my XTi in the US, and the charger is certainly rated for 240V as well. It doesn't come with any other adapters though, so you will need to buy a travel adaptor to use it.

If you think a question is beneath you and not worth your valuable time to answer, then ignore it.

 

There really isn't any need to be rude, unless it makes you feel superior to the poor person that may have asked what to them may have been a reasonable question only to be patronised with your reply.

It sounds like they should've made it an EF-S mount, if it causes mirror collision on a full-frame Canon. That's exactly what EF-S is for.

Really? Awesome! I am -sure- this didn't work when I tried it, but it sounds like I messed up somewhere!

 

I will give it another go, as performing long bulb exposures is what I bought the RC for!

I can confirm that this works on my 400D as well. In continuous shooting mode with the camera set to "M" it takes three shots automatically, in single shot I press the release three times to take the three bracketed shots. You can also see the three exposure values on the meter as you change the shutter/apature.

Unfortunately, the wireless remote control doesn't work for bulb exposures. You would need to get a wired shutter release cable.

I bought a XTi when I was over in the US this year and brought it back with me to the UK.

 

It is an identical camera apart from the badge, but as has been already mentioned the battery charger you get is a US model, and you will need a plug adaptor to use it in the UK/europe.

 

The charger is multi-voltage however, so it will work quite happily on 240/220V as well as 120V.