r_t12

December 4, 2015

According to the Zero Image webpage, the 75B pinhole camera has the following pinholes:

0.18mm (25mm) - f/138

0.28mm (50mm) - f/176

0.35mm (75mm) - f/216.5

And has these zone plates:

25mm w/11 zones - f/43.25

50mm w/21 zones - f/45.54

75mm w/33 zones - f/44.7

More details on the Zero Image webpage: http://www.zeroimage.com/Pinhole_Camera_45_2015_BTN.html

A mighty fine looking pinhole camera. I wish I had one, too! Have fun!

March 14, 2015

Theoretically, yes.

For fun, I once stuck a sheet of Fuji Instax Mini film in my Holga (medium-format) camera, exposed the film, and then transferred the film back into an Instax camera to process the image.

Film transferring between cameras was done in darkness, of course. I was able to get an image that covered almost the entire image area of the Mini film with the Holga. If you were to do the same with a 35mm camera, the image would only cover small part of the Mini film. Not sure if this is worth your effort, but???? :)

There is a Flickr group where folks experiment with Instax film in non-Instax cameras - usually medium or large-format cameras. Google "Instax without Instax".

Best of luck, and let us know how it goes.

August 17, 2014

You might find this useful:

http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/MamiyaRB67.html

July 1, 2014

If Fuji replies and confirms that there is an "adapter" to use on the PA-45 to shoot the smaller 3.25 x 4.25 instant pack film, please let us know! I have never heard of one, though.

To shoot FP-100C (3.25 x 4.25) in many 4x5 cameras, you can use the Fuji PA-145, or similar Polaroid 405 instant pack film holders. No film "adapter" needed, although you will need to compensate for composition of the smaller film.

June 16, 2014

There is further good news regarding instant 4x5 film users! If you haven't already heard, the folks at New55 Film recently started and achieved their $400,000 Kickstarter fundraising goal. We can expect a product very similar to Polaroid's Type 55 film to be marketed in the very near future (January 2015).

Check out the New55 Film Kickstarter page here: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/bobcrowley/new55-film

And the New55 Film webpage here: http://new55project.blogspot.com

Hang on to your Polaroid 545 film holder! rt

January 7, 2014

Wayne,

Not every 4x5 camera will accept the Polaroid 550 film back. What camera do you have? Graflok-style back?

More importantly, FujiFilm appears to have recently halted production on all of their 4x5 pack films (FP-100C45 and FP-3000B45). You can still buy some on the secondary market, but be prepared to pay a premium.

If your 4x5 camera accepts the smaller Polaroid 405 instant film back (or similar Fuji 145 back), you can use Fuji's 3.25x4.25 pack films (FP-100C and FP-3000B). Latest reports from FujiFilm USA say that the FP-3000B will be discontinued later this year (2014). FP-100C will be the sole instant pack film in production at that point.

December 23, 2013

Yes, if you use the current commercially available Holgaroid backs, you will get a squarish image on a rectangular FP-100c film (with a black band on one side of the image and heavy vignetting).

See this Flickr site for examples:

http://www.flickr.com/groups/holgaroid

Some people have also hacked/modified their Holga camera with the filmback of a Polaroid Colorpack camera to create a full-frame Holgaroid. That Flickr site has discussions on how this can be done.

rt

September 18, 2013

Susan,

Your Noon Kingston camera looks very similar in style and function of the 4x5 pinhole cameras made by Lensless Camera Mfg. Co. (LCMC):

http://www.pinholecamera.com/

The LCMC cameras use standard 4x5 sheet film and instant film holders. These LCMC cameras also incorporate a sloping rail, and dowel that slides tight behind the film back. The slope allows for the varying thickness of different film holders.

Not having either your camera or a roll film back in front of me, I’m not sure but I think a medium-format roll-film back, like those made for the Graflex 4x5 press cameras, are too thick to use with the dowel. But maybe the film back can be held against your camera simply with large rubberbands?

I hope Noon Camera and others here on this forum can provide you more help. If not, the wise folks at f295.org may have more info for you. Let us know what you discover.

- rt

January 20, 2012

This discussion on the F295.org forum might be useful to you. Depending on the format you plan on shooting (6x6, 6x4.5, etc.), the placement of the hole will differ with 120 film:

http://www.f295.org/Pinholeforum/forum/Blah.pl?m-1172070742/s-all/

And I use a piece of red plastic cut from report covers for my window. You can buy them at your local "school supplies" store. If your hole is placed right up against the film paper, you will reduce the chance of getting light leaks.

good luck!

January 11, 2012

35mm or 120 film?

Is there a FAQ for new Polaroid users? · April 25, 2011

To shoot with the Fujifilm instant pack films, you can choose from the following currently available film:

3.25"x4.25":

FP-100B (bl&w)

FP-100C (color)

FP-3000B (bl&w)

4"x5":

FP-100C45 (color)

FP-3000B45 (bl&w)

FP-100B45 (bl&w) was discontinued last year - very sad news!

Polaroid made pack film holders for each size film. Both holders fit many 4x5 cameras with graflok backs. You can get the Polaroid holders only on the used market. Fujifilm makes holders that are nearly identical to Polaroids', and they can be purchased new:

3.25x4.25 - Polaroid 405 holder, or Fuji PA-145

4x5 - Polaroid 550 holder, or Fuji PA-45

I can't speak directly about your Speed Graphic, but the Polaroid 405 and Fuji PA-45 which I own, both fit my ca. 1954 Crown Graphic with graflok back. It's a very tight fit, though with the PA-45. You might want to search the forum archives over at graflex.com to see if there is an issue with your Speed Graphic.

As far as I know, the Impossible Project has not produced any of these "pack films", yet. We can hope that they do one day, though!

Some folks purchase expired Polaroid pack film on eBay, but I'm not brave enough. YMMV.

Best of luck!

August 7, 2010

What to shoot? Like Chuk said, ANYTHING. If you need a bit of inspiration, check out the various online pinhole galleries. Here are a few:

http://www.flickr.com/groups/p-sharan/

http://www.sharan-camera.com/SQ35_gallery.html

Have fun!

rt

June 21, 2010

For a 100 bucks, I'll recommend what I use - a 2nd hand Sekonic L28 C2 (or similar L-398) meter and a "pinhole exposure scale" you can download for free at Kyoto Photo Press:

http://www.kyotophoto.org/pinhole/resource/index_e.html

I use the Sekonic as an incident light meter. It is reliable, accurate, uses no batteries, and is built like a tank.

Best of luck!

rt

March 1, 2010

Jeremy,

Someone on the solargraphy flickr group mentioned using printing out paper (POP), and gold/selenium toning, before fixing in hypo to get some stablized images.

http://www.flickr.com/groups/solargraphy/discuss/72157623303552562/

If you have any success fixing your solargraphs, please report back. I'm sure many other solargraphers would appreciate any info on this.

thanks,

rt

March 1, 2010

Jeremy,

Someone on the solargraphy flickr group mentioned using printing out paper (POP), and gold/selenium toning, before fixing in hypo to get some stablized images.

http://www.flickr.com/groups/solargraphy/discuss/72157623303552562/

If you have any success fixing your solargraphs, please report back. I'm sure many other solargraphers would appreciate any info on this.

thanks,

rt

January 24, 2010

Hi Justin,

Each film manufacturer places the exposure numbers at a slightly different position. Not much difference between them, but if you shoot primarily with one brand, you might want to place the hole more carefully. For example, shooting 6x4.5, Kodak Portra 160NC has two row of numbers centered at 10 and 17mm.

Here is a discussion on the f295 forum on this very topic. Check out antbiker's reply (#4) for a cool diagram. I hope no one minds me giving this link:

http://www.f295.org/Pinholeforum/forum/Blah.pl?m-1172070742/s-all/

As for raw material to make the red window, I use those clear red plastic covers high schoolers use for their report assignments. One report cover will last you a lifetime. Good luck on your pinhole camera making!

rt my pinhole flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/36exposures/collections/

First time pinhole user questions · January 6, 2010

As mentioned, your Zero 2000 should have a exposure scale built into the back of the camera. If not, one can use this free one located at Kyoto Photo Press. I find it quite handy and simple to use in conjunction with a hand-held light meter.

http://www.kyotophoto.org/pinhole/resource/exposure/index_e.html

As far as reciprocity goes, I'll leave it up to others, but I primarily use negative print film (Kodak Portra 160NC) and don't compensate for exposures that usually run between 1 to 60secs.

Good Luck and have fun with your new pinhole camera!

rt my pinhole flickr page: http://www.flickr.com/people/36exposures/

October 28, 2009

Stephanie,

A good first roll in color. A bit under-exposed to my eye, though. Deep shade in bright sunlight is tough.

I would suggest using color negative film for more exposure latitude, and if you don't have one, find and use an incident light meter.

I welcome you to post your best color pinhole images at:

all the best,

rt

October 14, 2009

Cool! The image of the boat in the middle of the "forest" is surreal. :)

Check out http://www.f295.org/ for more pinholing fun.

rt

October 12, 2009

Hi again Stephanie!

The images are great! Pinholes and cemeteries seem to go well together! The images do look sharp but with a soft touch. Nice!

Keep shooting!

rt

October 12, 2009

Hi Stephanie,

Good luck on the 0.3mm pinhole. The scan of the hole looks nice, round, and clean. That should help on the sharpness.

Oh, and as far as black paint goes, I use "flat black" in a spray can that I get from the local hardware store. Works fine.

Show us your results!

rt

October 11, 2009

Hi Stephanie,

Congratulations on your pinhole camera! According to this website, your 0.3mm should be near optimal for your 50mm focal length (0.26mm and f/192).

http://ca.geocities.com/penate@rogers.com/pinsize.htm

I agree that your image could be a tad sharper. I would try making a slightly smaller pinhole and make doubly sure that you are not introducing any camera shake during exposure - esp. when opening and closing your shutter.

I've been experimenting with home-made medium format pinhole cameras for a while. You may be interested in seeing what I've come up with, particularly how I secure the camera back with clamping knobs.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/36exposures/sets/72157606590964855/

All the best,

rt

July 3, 2009

I prefer long exposures using the ol' "hat infront of the lens" trick to expose your film to multiple aerial bursts on a single frame. I also prefer daylight color negative film allowing a bit of exposure latitude (100 or 200 ISO). Shoot on bulb, and f/11.

Having shot a few fireworks shows in the past, I now bring a small penlight with red filter over the lens for film changing. Here is the Smithsonian Institution webpage with more hints on taking fireworks photos: <a href="http://photo2.si.edu/firew/firew.html" target="_blank">http://photo2.si.edu/firew/firew.html</a>

Best of luck!

rt

July 3, 2009

Sherry Krauter of GOLDEN Touch sorted out my Leica IIf with an overhaul. Works fabulously now. Not cheap, but she has a good reputation. Turn-around time a little long, but worth it.

Good luck!

rt

June 2, 2009

Use this handy free exposure calculator in conjunction with a hand-held light meter:

http://www.kyotophoto.org/pinhole/resource/exposure/index_e.html

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