christos_chatzoglou

<p>John, is the second time that someone asks about what is this thread doing, on the LF forum.<br>

The test is made betwwen 617 camera, that like all 617s uses 5''x7'' format lenses, vs digital capture.<br>

So, apart that this camera uses roll film, we have large format lens, plus that the exposed film area is too close to 4''x5''.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Jens, the comparison here is between, digital files from scanned chrome (with a nikon scanner and not from drum scanner) and digital capture.<br>

These two files has a big difference in size (a 6x9 chrome, scanned at 4000 ppi, gives about 650MB while the digital capture from 16.6Mp camera gives only 95MB, at the same bit depth).<br>

BUT, when you change the image size to both, to take the same image size for a print 24''x36'' at 300dpi, the differences are not as much as you wait to see from original files so differents in size.<br>

Scanned files includes a lot of grain, while digital captures are very clean and you can upsize them to this print size, without serious deterioration.</p>

<p>Paul, of course you can post the examples to anywhere you want.<br>

I would like also, to know how did you make the adjustment of the color balance.</p>

<p>Paul you made a perfect work to the color balance,<br>

This thread is about my dilema about, the easier way to shoot panoramic for take large prints (24''x72'') and with the maximum quality.<br>

Shooting 617 means a lot of time for scanning, but easier to shoot (no problem with moving objects or need to leveling perfectly the camera), while the digital capture, using a panoramic head (like panosaurus or other), plus ts-e lenses, needs more time durind the capture (to set up tripod, mount the pano head, leveling and take a lot of photos), but you avoid the 1.chromes cost 2.developing cost and time 3.scanning time.<br>

About the quality, i think that sticking five or more digital photos, from a 16.6 Mpixel camera we can take the same or even better quality for 24''x72'' prints than a scanned 617 chrome.</p>

<p>Dave, the color is something easy to adjust in photoshop (i made a very fast try).<br>

But one thing that none of you takes care, is about the big difference of the dynamic range.<br>

This is the only part that digital is far away the winner.<br>

And d.r. is something that someone cann't adjust in photoshop without creating high levels of noise.</p><div></div>

<p>I use the glass holder to keep as flat is possible the chrome.<br>

I make two scans 6x9 (first one, covers about half lenght of the chrome and second scan for the rest).<br>

Next step is sticking together these scans with p/s.</p>

<p>I put the focus to the hyperfocal distance and i stopped down (not at f64 that is the minimum aperture of my lens), to obtain maximum depth of field.<br>

I used as always, a heavy tripod and cable release, plus mirror lock up for the canon.<br>

When i used to my schneider lense, apertures f32 and f45, i never show any differences on sharpness.<br>

I use to print 24"x72" and never show any serious difference in sharpness at this size.<br>

When i took the first photo with my 617 camera, i didn't have in my mind to make this test.<br>

I return back to the same place after a month, to shoot digital becouse, i had my eos 1dsII left out of use more than one year, using to shoot only panoramas, just to see if with the simple way to take just two digital captures throught my TS-E lenses, i could obtain same big prints with same contrast, details, colors and dynamic range as with the 617 chromes, for printing large as before (24'x72').<br>

To my eyes with close inspection after printing these cropped parts, are acetable sharp both, but the digital crops missing information. </p>

<p>About the color is probably the longer time exposure of the provia 100f (about 10").<br>

I didn't touch it.<br>

Aperture for the film camera was f45 while for the digital was f20 (min aperture f22)</p><div></div>

<p>Hello.<br>

I made a test to see about the overal look of an image, made by a digital camera and a medium format scanned chrome.<br>

I also checked about how many details can capture each one.<br>

Both photos made at the same place, but not in the same day in late afternoon.<br>

I used the max optical resolution of the scanner (4000ppi) Nikon coolscan 9000ED.<br>

I adjusted only the local contrast due curves and levels in photoshop.<br>

For the digital capture i used the shift movement of my tilt and shift lens (Canon TS-E 24mm), to take two separeted photos that i sticked togethet via photoshop.<br>

To my eyes the digital capture has better dynamic range but also seems a little fake with a "digital look".<br>

About the details the scanned file looks far better.<br>

For big enlargements i think that scanned files from medium format chromes can deliver best prints.<br>

Which is yours opinion? </p><div></div>

<p>Hi guys.<br>

I have cut the hood with a hand held grinder.<br>

Everything perfect with no damages on the lens and body.<br>

Thank you all, for your advices.</p>

<p>I intent to use a filter system (Lee) and will be a pain to do this, with this hood.<br>

Anyway thank you your answers.</p>

<p>Hi.<br>

Today i received a Fuji GSW690III, bought from ebay and i want to remove the lens hood.<br>

Does anyone knows a safe way to do this, without introducing any damage to the lens or the camera's body?<br>

Thank you</p>

<p>Thank you Sheldon.<br>

It is thrue that i am used to use all these stuff like ETTL that all are made by the camera and the flash (Eos system).<br>

So is the first time that i need to use all manual and is for that all my questions.<br>

Anywhere you exlained very well what i have to do (compicated enough).</p>

<p>Thank you for your help Sheldon and Andrian.<br>

The camera does have a hot shoe.<br>

So, i can shoot at any speed i want, and this will be transmited to the flash throught the hot shoe?</p>

<p>I have a Canon 580.<br>

Could it work ok?<br>

How can it be connected with the lens?</p>

<p>Hi.<br>

Does anyone knows which flash is right for this camera and how is used?<br>

Thank you.</p>

<p>Sorry.<br>

I failed before to insert the photos.</p>

<p>Hi Robert.<br>

Welcome to the club!!!</p>

<p>Hi Jamie.<br>

I suspected about scraches on the slide, becouse the nature of these bandings (at least mines) are like very thin lines of burned area and between them there is some information.<br>

From an older experience from a RZ 67 PROII that light entered in the back throught the crack of the darkslide, the nature of that banding was very different, vertical like fog.<br>

Here there are fine and precise limits nothing like fog.<br>

I believe that if the light pass inside the back from somewhere, these areas of the slide will be burned like fog.<br>

As you see i can do only suppositions.<br>

Maybe we must send an email to the dealer to ask what we have to do for solving this inconveniences.<br>

But i believe that something going wrong with these backs.<br>

Other problems that i had with this back is that when i wind fast the film at the begining, this was cuted, and sometimes was blocked the cover and was impossible to open it (i ever carry with me a set of fine screwdrivers and i unscrewed the two screws of one side that keeps the hook in site for open it).<br>

I don"t know if you have had similar experience but be carefull when you wind a new roll, to do it slowlly until to see the number three on to the back"s window.<br>

After this, there is no problem.<br>

And when you open the cover of the back you must pull it with the same way both sides simultaneously becouse the metal alloy is very soft and is possible distort one of the two back's hooks that keeps the cover.<br>

If it will be happen, opening the back will be impossible.<br>

One my thought was to buy the horseman back that use the Ebony 617S camera if it is possible to buy just the back and if it fits right on the Shen Hao (i thing that is very possible).<br>

Solving the problem of these bandings unfortunally not solves all the other problems.<br>

Exept the shen hao 617 i used more than one year, three same Gaoersi 617 cameras (the shift model with interchangeable back) and the quality of all these three backs was far better than this shen hao.<br>

About how i scan, i have allready answered you (before to asked it) yesterday, to your other question that you have posted in this site.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Jamie now with your last picture i understood better the problem.<br>

I have exactly the same light bandings at all my slides, not only at the top as yours, but also at the bottom like mirror.<br>

I haven't the dark bandings.<br>

When i show first time these light bandings at my slides, i thought that they made from rubbing, introduced when the roll is winding, probably because the surfaces of the back at these points are not perfectly smooth.<br>

I live with this issue and i just crop during the scan, these areas.<br>

Having both of us the same problem (me worst), means that these backs are difected and as i told you at my first message, all about this camera is a big dissapointment.<br>

About the dark bandings, i want to ask you if it was mounted on your lens any filter holder or any filter directly? </p>

<p>Jamie, i use Epson v750 with BetterScanning glass-holder but when i want better quality i use Nikon coolsacan 9000 with its glass holder too.<br>

With nikon scanner i have to scan twice (6x9) the same frame and after i stick the two pices in one throught p\s.<br>

The quality from nikon is far better than epson v750 (Dmax nikon 4,3 vs epson 3,9)</p>