zeb_lisik

<p>I know a few of these have been mentioned before...<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. monitor is calibrated with an external device (like an eye one display 2) or at least one of those gamma programs<br /> 2. printer is using its name brand inks and paper; or 3rd party printer-ink-paper combination which has been profiled; or a 3rd party paper that has has profiles profiles for your printer and its name brand inks<br /> 3. software is configured with your monitor profile<br /> 4. software is configured to proof and print with the icc profile for your printer-ink-paper combination<br /> 5. it sounds like your configuring the print driver properly but it should be relative colorimetric<br /> 6. make sure lighting is consistent in the computer area and where you're viewing the print<br /> 7. follow these guidelines by epson files.support.epson.com/pdf/pho140/pho140mc.pdf<br /> 8. make sure your colorspace is consistent</p>

<p>a canon 135mm f2.8 + kenko 1.4x TC is very cheap, small, light and black....but not a zoom.<br>

there is a tokina 80-400mm f4.5-5.6</p>

 

<p>there's the tokina 12-24mm which is about 400$<br /> do you find that your 18-55mm is wide enough?</p>

<p>a 'good' all rounder standard zoom for 500$...hmmm well 'good' is in some cases relative; acceptable for ones purposes might be a better angle to look at it from.</p>

<p>tokina makes a fast 16-50mm f2.8 and a 50-135mm f2.8, each costing about 550$ But is 16mm wide enough for your purposes?<br /> <br /> if your kit lens is wide enough then maybe canon 70-200mm f4L ~600$ if you have any need of longer reach?</p>

<p>it may be best to test different lenses and see what lengths suit you best and would be most useful on your trip.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Have you considered getting a 1ds mk2? They can be had for 2k-ish and should be going down further in the near future, if the 1dsmk4 ever comes into existence.<br>

I don't have one but from what I gather they have much better AF than the 300D and any 5D. </p>

<p>I'd go for the new. the 1000D is just too far ahead in technology and that 20D is expensive.</p>

<p>But the picture prints incorrectly for both orientations.</p>

<p>And for landscape it prints as if an A4 paper were selected, which its not.</p>

<p>I guess it dosn't really matter. There's probably a good CM'ed printing utility out there that plays fair with printer drivers.</p>

<p>So I've only recently started using GIMP 2.6 and I like it well enough.</p>

<p>I tried printing out some borderless 4x6 snapshots on an Epson 2200 using Vista sp1 32bit, but I can't seem to orient the photo properly. I've used plenty of other programs without issue and with better CM but the fact that I tried several times and couldn't get it right irks me.<br>

I either get either:</p>

<p>1. a small vertical strip on the outer edge, its as if the printer is trying to print the photo off the paper. Purely a fuction of portrait/landscape i believe.</p>

<p>or</p>

<p>2. proper orientation but only 3/4 of the photo is printed, leaving about an inch+ of unprinted paper, looking like a polaroid.</p>

<p>and on none of them could I get borderless printing.</p>

<p>Is there some trick to printing with GIMP? Is that trick not to print with GIMP?</p>

<p>not sure what sort of stuff you're looking for but here's a place http://www.fotosearch.com/</p>

<p>I'm sure there's plenty of the same sort of thing just google it.</p>

<p>On that note google images might be enough for your purposes.</p>

<p>Can't you uninstall(or something) the software & lisence? I remember running into such a problem not too long ago for a different adobe product and exceeding the number of installs/lisences. Their method dosnt really allow for system crashes and such, that is, unless you call customer service.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have also been asking myself such questions lately.<br>

Geoff,<br>

that book looks good, I just bought it used from Amazon marketplace for 10$. I hope its info is not dated but from some of the excerpts he discusses theory and methodology and not simply which buttons to press so I'm guessing the info will have longevity.</p>

<p>I got a solution to my problem on a printer forum<br>

http://www.nifty-stuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=25532#p25532</p>

<p>basically the timing strip got dirty (with ink) and was causing the vertical lines of color and the vertical inless line in the nozzle check.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I'm still experiencing the same printing problems; vertical color banding.<br>

During nozzle checks I always get a vertical empty line down the cyan column but everything else is now good.</p>

<p>So far I've:<br>

-run plenty of head cleanings<br>

-run alignment<br>

-I bought some head cleaning fluid, soaked the sponge and let the head sit over night<br>

-used cleaning fluid and cleaned the spikes under the ink carts<br>

-replaced all ink carts with epson carts<br>

-printed on epson paper, gloss and mat</p>

<p>Any suggestions?</p>

 

<p>Roger Smith,<br /> With regards to the photo that faded after 4 months what kind of paper was it on? Was it under UV protected glass? And when was the ink purchased (I believe that the Image Specialist ink has changed over time)?</p>

<p>I assume that the paper recommendations are for commercial and gallery printing? What do you use for more casual printing or commercial work where the highest quality is not needed?</p>

<p>I took a gamble and bought an epson 2200 (instead of the 1800) with a clogged nozzle for 30$, a CIS and Precision Color (Image Specialists) ink.... And I believe that the guy I got the ink from can do a few profiles as a bonus.</p>

<p>So basically I've not followed anyones advice.. haha But if things don't go well I'll go to epson ink and paper with profiles for epson ink. However I am also planning to buy a few sets of epson ink just in case.</p>

<p>I bought an Epson 2200 that was having problems, that being an example of the output. The guy didn't want to deal with it and just bought a new one. I think he did it because the printer was out of warranty.<br>

I got it home and printed a generic test page and there was horizontal white space between the text and then it ran out of ink... so I have to wait until my new ink arrives for further diagnostics.<br>

I've also found evidence that turning off fast printing can correct such a problem.<br>

I hope everything works out, I'll be out a lot of money if I can't fix it.<br>

I'll report back if things work out or not.</p>

<p>Does anyone have any idea whats wrong with this printer?<br>

The print out has colored bands</p>

<p><a href="http://home.earthlink.net/%7Esamward/3-lines.jpg">http://home.earthlink.net/~samward/3-lines.jpg</a></p>

 

<p>thanks for everyones input, advice and resources.</p>

<p>If everyone recommends staying with the printer's manufactuers ink then I guess its pointless to ask for paper recommendations.. haha</p>

<p>Though I'm not off the idea of using a high quality 3rd party ink and 1 or 2 types of paper for general photo printing.</p>

<p>I'm going to start doing some printing (mostly colour I believe) for myself soon and I lacking in the colour management department.<br /> <br /> I was wondering if anyone could recommend any up to date books on the subject. <br /><br>

I recently ordered <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Color-Confidence-Digital-Photographers-Management/dp/0471786160/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1244688793&sr=1-6">Color Confidence: The Digital Photographer's Guide to Color Management (Tim Grey Guides) </a></p>

<p>I do have an i1 monitor calibrator, photoshop cs3, lightroom, gimp, epson r1800, various papers and have been reading the Color Management Primer by Jay Kinghorn on photo.net.<br>

I am hoping to use 3rd party inks and am wondering how this will effect my colour management; can anyone give me advice?</p>

<p> </p>

<h1><br /></h1>

<p>Well I found an R1800 for 120$ used but apparently in pristine condition. Apparently it hasn't been used over the past year but the guy tested it recently and found that it printed fine.</p>

<p>J. Harrington, I've read that in order for the nozzels not to clog one must use the printer weekly if not more. I've even seen a program that will do this periodically.</p>

 

<p>I'm in the market for a good condition, used pigment printer for mostly colour printing.<br>

I've seen a few R2200 out there for about 200$ with new sets of ink, in good alleged condition. is this a good deal?</p>

<p>Also one person claimed that keeping empty carts in the printer for long storage will keep the printer from clogging. is this true? I have no experience with pigment inks.</p>

<p>Gary you're considering the <strong>12-24mm f/4 AT-X 124AF Pro DX vs </strong> <strong>12-24mm f/4 AT-X 124AF Pro DX II </strong> am I correct?</p>

<p>If the benefits don't justify the extra 100$ to you I don't see any reason not to get it. Many people are happy with it. You are likely to be very happy with it. If price is a concern you may want to look around and see if you can get a used version.</p>

<p>On the subject of shutter speed remember that once you're on a tripod it is much less important, as long as your subject is stationary, so keep your ISO low. Typically AV mode is the most useful when doing macro/closeup, just set your fstop and let the camera worry about the shutter.<br>

A closeup photography book might be in order, "Understanding Close-Up Photography" by Peterson is a good place to get started.</p>

<p>Hi Kim, I use an Canon Digial Rebel 300D and a Tamron 90mm 1:1 macro.</p>

<p>The 100mm is surely better and more useful than the 60mm. Having more reach is very useful in that you can be positioned farther away which may help you in not disturbing your subject and in not blocking light sources.</p>

<p>You can also use your cameras timer in order to avoid some shake as an alternative to a cable release.</p>

<p>As others have suggested if you're doing 1:1 (or higher) macro photography use a focusing rail of some sort on a tripod, for this magnification any tripod is better than none. If still suffering from camera shake try using MLU though I don't know if your camera supports it or not...</p>

<p>You can also use the method of holding your camera immobile against yourself, holding your breath and leaning forward or backward ever so slightly to get your focus. This is more effective at ratios less than 1:1 and obviously your shots out of focus rate is going to be higher so take plenty of pictures. I found this useful before I got a proper tripod and focus rail, or whenever I don't have a tripod with me.</p>

<p>Manual focus is easier (since AF hunts too much) and is the general standard when shooting macro and closeup though there may be plenty of situations when AF is suitable. For instance if you were shooting a wide angle closeup of some flowers on a breezy day, a quick AF shot may be the more practical choice.</p>

 

<p>What, no corresponding graph of prices over time? haha<br>

a huge amount of work... thanks.</p>

 

<p>Hey, just as a follow up we bought a Canon A570 IS. The flash recycle didn't seem too bad off some batteries just out of the charger, but the flash won't be used much anyways.</p>

<p>The ability to use a hard case underwater housing made me choose the older A570 over the A590; warranty be damned.</p>

<p>I found it, used only a few times, for 126$ shipped. Everything seems to be in like new condition. Included was:<br /> hp photosmart 475 printer, case, with ink x2 and paper,<br /> 2x 2gig sd<br /> camera case<br /> manfrotto monopod<br /> all manuals and cables</p>

<p>All in all a pretty good deal I think, I'll use the monopod and the printer will be useful for informal snapshot printing.</p>

<p>Is 'both' a good answer?</p>

<p>Internal disks are faster, cheaper, usually run cooler (and thus may last longer) and are less likely to be knocked about (unless you're in the habit of kicking your computer). They are also easy to install yourself and its fairly easy to set up 2 or more into a RAID array offering some redundancy.</p>

<p>External drives also (generally) run hotter (and thus may fail where the same drive might live forever inside a computer tower), the housings are often of sketchy design and/or have poor QC and are transportable but are thus exposed to the opportunity of knocks, drops and drips (if you plan to cart around files often using your external drive i'd install an internal and have them mirrored). Also some drives are always left 'on' which may further shorten its life.</p>

<p>External drives could, in theory, be as fast as if they had been mounted internally if the housing and connection type are up to snuff. As some have commented they find external drives to be 'fast' enough, for edditing and such, which this may very well be true in certain situations. However if you're copying 10 gigs of files from CF cards via a USB card reader and copying them to a USB hard drive and browsing/edditing photos on that same hard drive and perhaps you've stored music/videos on that same hard drive and are listening to music or watching video on your second monitor..... well that's a lot of traffic through the USB channels, and it ain't bottomless and depending on your computer architecture it could less than stellar.</p>

<p>Depending on what your back up needs are and since hard drive are so cheap my suggestions would be as follows:</p>

<p>Option 1: install 2 identical internal drives and set up a mirrored RAID array</p>

<p>Option 2: install 1 internal drive burn optical disks as archival backups</p>

<p>Option 3: install 1 internal drive and 1 external drive, use a program to sync the files between them and use one or the other as your backup (depending on if you want to use the external drive as a transportable drive)</p>

<p>Option 4: install 1 internal drive and be done with it. but can you imagine loosing 500 gigs of data and having basicaly no way to recover it?</p>