joshua_martin1

The main reason I use FD is COST and IMAGE QUALITY. I'm a student paying my own way, and Canon FD is the one of the most widely-available systems to include quality optics at cheaper prices. I enjoy my late-model Vivitar 19-35/3.5-4.5, FDn 28/2.8, 50/1.4s (FDn and SSC), Tokina AT-X 60-120/2.8, Vivitar 70-210/3.5, and cheapy Soligor 400/5.6. A few flashes, two AE-1 series bodies, and an assortment of accessories juuuust fits into a Domke OutPack DayPack.

If I had the money, I'd be in EOS gear. Lighter, quieter, built-in motor drives, decent built-in flash, some EXCELLENT prosumer zoom lenses (28-105, 20-35, 100-300/5.6L), ultra-fast (USM motors), reliable AF, etc.

But that won't happen for quite some time!

John,

There was a web page that detailed all of this -- if you put in a search at www.google.com for " dennis canon fd lens " you will pull up the page--BUT the page seems unavailable at the time.

HOWEVER - Google.com caches the pages and you can view an older copy of the page, which should have the info you are looking for. Here's the current link:

http://216.239.51.100/search?q=cache:O_XUWuPbfVcC:web.mit.edu/dennis/www/canon/fd-lens-info.html+canon+FD+lens+hood+bw+bt&hl=en&ie=UTF-8

Take care,

Hello Stephane,

<p>

I haven't used that Vivitar lens before.

<p>

Poor lens performance can be attributed to several factors: damage to

the lens, lens not working properly, poor build quality (poor

focusing/sticking elements) or design constraints made in order to

keep the lens cheap, inadequate shielding from lens flare by the

photographer, dirty elements (hazed over), etc.

<p>

There are some good and bad zoom lenses in both Canon and the 3rd

party offerings. Do some research and you can find which lenses to

avoid--there was a discussion a while back on Javier Henderson's FD

mail list on these mid range (28-70mm) lenses. If you subscribe to

the list, you can look through the archives.

<p>

Canon FD mail list:

http://www.kjsl.com/canon-fd/fd-mailing-list.html

<p>

Yahoo-based FD mail list:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CanonFD/

<p>

Take care,

H. Yeh,

<p>

The Vivitar Series I 70-210mm f3.5 lens is widely regarded as an

excellent lens for a minimal outlay--a deal similar to the 50/1.4

SSC. They are available from time to time on eBay or online camera

stores. I got mine for $60. If you're willing to wait for a good

deal, I wouldn't pay more than $75. Also, note that there are at

least two versions of the 70-210mm "Series I" lens--the legendary one

has a fixed max aperture, and the lesser-regarded one has variable

aperture.

<p>

Re: 35-105mm, one member of Javier Henderson's Canon FD mailing list

recently got one for about $180 from KEH.

<p>

Link to Javier's FD mail list:

http://www.kjsl.com/canon-fd/fd-mailing-list.html

<p>

There's also a yahoogroups FD e-mail list at:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CanonFD/

<p>

Take care,

Hello H. Yeh,

<p>

Dust and specks in the lens don't always harm the final image

quality. Take some test shots and see if they affect the images. If

it is fungus, you well know that it may spread and 'eat' at the

coatings or finely etch the lens element surfaces.

<p>

Before you take the plunge to clean the lens, consider replacing the

lens for comparable cost. The 50/1.4 SSC is available for $50-75.

Cameta Camera ( www.cameta.com ) had one or two in stock for about

the same cost it would take to ship/clean the same lens.

<p>

I have used Camera Clinic's services for lens cleaning and repair. I

was pleasantly served with prompt communication, timely service, and

a job well done.

<p>

I have two of the 50/1.4 lenses, one is the SSC version and the other

is the newer FD (aka FDn) version. The SSC has a 55mm filter mount,

the FDn version has a 52mm filter mount.

<p>

The older design Canon lenses use what is referred to as the "breech-

lock" design, and are mounted straight on the camera body and locked

in by turning the mount ring--but the lens doesn't turn during

mounting. The newer FD lenses use what is called the "bayonet" style-

-the whole lens body turns as you lock it in the mount.

<p>

Some 3rd party mfrs (Vivitar, Tamron, etc.) still make lenses in the

breech-lock design. Some prefer it over the FDn, but as long as the

lens fits tightly against the body, you'll be fine.

<p>

Anyway, here's Camera Clinic's contact info:

Camera Clinic

295 Gentry Way #9

Reno, NV 89502

E-mail: Steven40@aol.com

<p>

I can't comment on the 35-105mm comparison, but you will probably

find the 105mm end of the zoom a bit short for wildlife, unless you

can sneak up very close. And, unfortunately, the quality long lenses

carry a hefty price tag. However, there are compromises. I have a

cheaper 400mm/5.6 lens that does fine wide open for my purposes of

pleasure shooting, but I use a tripod to minimize blurring since it

is a bit slow for hand-held shots. If 200mm suits your purposes, the

Canon FDn 200/4 is a great performer for the lower price. At any

rate, due research ususally turns up opinions on just about any lens.

<p>

Take care,

I don't have much to offer; but I do know if the shutter button is

stuck down then you get a similar scenario. Does a gentle (but firm)

knock on a solid object help at all?

Hi Brandon,

<p>

A few questions. What's your intended subject matter? Sports?

Landscapes? All-around photography? Do you know what zoom range you

are looking for?

<p>

Search the web for reviews. For example, I might do a search

for "Canon FD lens review" and see what that pulls up. Then I might

just try "Canon FD lens". Photographyreview.com even has feedback on

a few manual focus lenses.

<p>

Tokina, Tamron, Phoenix, Vivitar, and Sigma are among the 3rd-party

makers of Canon FD stuff; some of those mfgrs are beginning to drop

some of their manual focus models.

<p>

If you just want something to play with, consider the cheaper models

offered by the mfgrs. If you want to maximize your image quality (as

much as is within your budget), do your Web homework and you'll come

up with enough info to make an educated decision.

<p>

I currently own two zooms: 35-80mm Tamron SP and a Vivitar Series 1

70-210mm f3.5. I'm happy with both, although I do wish the Tamron

went down to 28mm--I find the 35mm end a bit narrow.

<p>

Feel free to ask more Q's. The worst you can get is silence. :-)

Steve,

<p>

Are you looking for new CANON FD lenses or new lenses for Canon FD

that are made by other mfgrs?

<p>

A few mfgrs still make or have stock of Canon FD. B&H [

www.bhphoto.com ] lists offerings by Tamron and Tokina, among others.

<p>

There's plenty of used stuff that will work just as fine--both Canon

and non-Canon. The Vivitar Series 1 70-210 f3.5 is a prime example

of this--I'm not sure if any zoom eclipses its performance, not to

mention it's availability at $75. eBay can be a good source. In the

past I've been happy with purchases from from Northwest Collector

Camera [ nwcollectorcamera.com ].

<p>

FWIW, I have a Tamron 35-80mm f2.8-3.8 SP-series lens that's

excellent. I also have the aforementioned Vivitar. Do some

searching on the net and you'll find out what models are junk and

what models are highly rated.

I serendipitously came across some info related to my question. An Austrailian company called Cinekinetic has a neat item that helps isolate bump and vibration of mobile-video, while also serving as a posh, informal camera support. Looks like something you might be able to make at home.

The "CineSaddle" looks like a supple (leather?) bag partially filled with foam balls; your video cam snuggles in the middle, hedged in like your butt in a saddle. Small foam balls alledgedly absorb much of the bump and shock, allowing for smoother mobile video.

The 'saddle comes in 3 sizes, and include either basic or deluxe "mounting package" (used for mounting on hood, luggae racke, etc.).

There are some testimonials, pics, etc. on the Cinekinetic website. Here's the site link that demonstrates the theory of the Cinesaddle

http://www.cinekinetic.com/invention/howitworks/howitworks.html

Enjoy.

Have you seen those short movies where a sports car is careening

through a mediterranean city, taking random streets here and there?

All you see is the street becuase the camera is (apparently) mounted

on the front of the car. How do they get that smooth, undisturbed

video?

I have the opportunity to travel to Pakistan this summer, and will be

a day or two traveling along the mountain roads with my Sony TRV900.

I would like to try and duplicate it for some of the mountain roads,

maybe for some general city stuff, too.

Low-down to the ground is cool, but introuduces debris that could

make the camera go kaput. Any ideas? Thanks.