tony_fletcher
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Posts posted by tony_fletcher
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<p>You might check to see if your cam uses the 3-pin connection. I just ordered this for my 30D and 7D.</p>
<p>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350280716330&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:1123</p>
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<p><strong>The 17-55 f/2.8 is awesome.</strong> I repeat: awesome. I shoot my kids all the time with it from infants to-now-the oldest at 7. Low light, bright light, ice rinks, indoor, outdoor, soccer, portraits, parties, beautiful bokeh, super-sharp...it's truly the "walk around" lens for the cropped sensor. Pony up—you'll love it.</p>
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<p>The lens is the Canon EF-S 17-55 2.8 IS. There is a "sharp cut" UV filter on it.<br>
I always thought-and expected-lens flare to come from the side, across the lens. I'm surprised to see it here, almost in front of the lens?<br>
The beer is good! There's a brewery here in town that lets you brew your own. I made 15 gallons of porter with some friends. The joke of the photo is that they bottled their share and I put mine in a 5 gallon soda keg. I was just rubbing it in!</p>
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<p>I should add that this was not a burst mode shot!</p>
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<p>I read where some 7Ds had an issue with ghosting, with images taken in burst mode. A recent firmware update was sent to address this issue. Anyway, I was goofing around tonight and I took the following image (to make some friends jealous!) and I see the Guinness neon sign made quite a ghosted image. Is this typical? I've never seen anything like this. Is this lens flare, with a neon sign?<br>
<img src="http://tonyfletcher.com/~pickup/Sites/filechute/mmmmmbeer.jpg" alt="" /></p>
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<p>Hello everyone-thanks again for the tips. I just ended up using the clone tool to replicate the background. I then made a new layer of texture/noise to match the original photo's texture and "multiplied" that over my new work. I think it turned out well:<br>
<img src="http://tonyfletcher.com/~pickup/Sites/filechute/Bbay_original_flat.jpg" alt="" /></p>
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<p>Thanks guys!</p><p>Thomas: Looks like the clone tool is the way to go. I guess I just gave up to early.</p><p>Jack: Would love
some info on the color-tinting you did. The shot with the quilt.</p>
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<p>I'm in the process of making this oval print a more traditional rectangle. I began by cloning the background, but I think a better avenue would be to find a similar background, edit the color and replace the background all together. Then silo the subject.</p>
<p>Any ideas on where I could track down such a background? Or perhaps I some input on creating something similar in PS with the pattern maker?</p>
<p>Or...any other ideas welcome? </p>
<p>http://tonyfletcher.com/~pickup/Sites/filechute/tonyfdesign_032.jpg</p>
<p>Thanks in advance.<img src="http://tonyfletcher.com/~pickup/Sites/filechute/tonyfdesign_032.jpg" alt="" /></p>
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<p>I spent the weekend exploring my new 7D. I thought our local ice rink would be a good high-ISO test since it has such poor lighting. Attached are two at ISO 1600. I'm pretty pleased with the level of noise.<br /> I used Canon's DPP to process these RAW files as it seems to be doing a much better job than Lightroom.<br>
<p>http://tonyfletcher.com/~pickup/Sites/filechute/rink-2.jpg<br>
http://tonyfletcher.com/~pickup/Sites/filechute/rink-1.jpg</p>
</p>
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<p>Not sure when the "Q" button was introduced as I recently moved from a 30D to the 7D. Just wanted to say what great feature the "Q" is. I really appreciate the ability to get a quick glance-and the ability to make a quick change.<br>
Hope to post some 7D test shots soon.</p>
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Hello:
I have a surplus of HP Advanced Photo Paper Satin-matt (from my old HP B9180) that I would like
to use in my new EPSON 3800. Does anyone have a recommendation on what paper profile might
be a close match in the EPSON family?
Thanks in advance.
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I have a EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 on my 30D. In fact, it's the only lens I have. I can't say anything
bad about it. Terrific in low-light situations with the IS. It's a true all-purpose lens for the
1.6x sensor.
It's true that the build quality is a little less sturdy then the L series, but that's a moot point
for me as I do not shoot professionally.
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I sent a few test prints to Adorama and they came back a little dark. They look like prints I make here on HP B9180 printer when Photoshop and the printer both apply color correction.
The prints I sent as a test, were:
TIFF
ColorSpace: AdobeRGB 1998
Bit Depth: 8
Resolution 300dpi
On the Adorama site I checked the box "perform color correction." That's where I went wrong correct? If the images are arriving at Adorama with the AdobeRGB 1998 color space, and then Adorama applies their profile, I have in a sense "double" corrected these images which could account for the darkness?
And, my monitor is properly calibrated via the Gretagmacbeth Eye1.
Video database?
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted