andrew_pogrebennyk

<p>Does anybody have the pepair manual for Mamiya 645 Pro TL in electronic form? The Mamiya 645 Pro one would do as well. If so could you email it to me at apogrebennyk [at] gmail.com? This time buying from overseas is not an option, as my friend asked for it fast. Thanks.</p>

<p>Chrise, thank you for your input. Examples are most appreciated. Reason for me narrowing down to these two options is that Kaesemann and Rolleipol are both available in bayonet mount.<br>

Edward: yeah that is something to think about. You are probably suggesting the polarizer which fits over the both viewing and taking lenses, but I think this type is not available in bay II (Minolta made one for the Autocord). Both Kaesemann and Rolleipol have scale markings on the rim to fine-tune and remember the angle when viewing through the polarizer, though it's a bit a waste of time, especially when used with the hood.</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I'm thinking about getting a bay II polarizer for my Rolleiflex 3.5E to take on a trek to Nepal. Currently I have two options: Rolleipol and Heliopan Kaesemann Polarizer. Given that Rolleipol is in a top shape, which one would you prefer? I'm looking for a decent sky darkening and vibrant colors (I'm a bit concerned about the color cast when using the polarizers). Kaesemann is so much more expensive, will it be a marked improvement over the Rolleipol?<br>

WBR, Andrew</p>

<p>Plenty answers have been provided on the LFPF forum, so I guess this thread is no longer relevant. Most people think this artifact comes from the sticky shutter blade. I'm going return this lens to the seller and go for the 120mm Super Symmar HM listed in the classifieds.</p>

<p>I've been out in the mountains this weekend shooting LF with my Chamonix 45N-1 and newly acquired Fujinon NW 125mm f/5.6. It's the version that takes 52mm filters, has EBC coating and chrome speed setting ring. I have developed 5 sheets of film so far and two of them have an unpleasant artifact at the top of the frame which looks like a black ghost:<br /> <br /> <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Yz0sDwNa2LY-IwDep8IU2w?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_4y3DOVqW40k/SksCjiXT81I/AAAAAAAAAyw/WFUuL4tPsX4/s400/img820.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="316" /> </a> <br /> <br /> <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/aQFTr26Z8FuwBhhPa1uhXQ?feat=embedwebsite%22"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_4y3DOVqW40k/SksCjlgznZI/AAAAAAAAAy0/ZeqrVb3Th8Y/s400/img826.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="316" /> </a> <br /> <br /> The lens has quite some white specks inside that appear around the edges of the front element, but they seem to be on the black paint inside and not really on the glass. I am not especially bothered by these. I posted the same question at the LFPF forum and got one response saying that this problem looks like a sticky shutter blade as there's a white section next to the black section. Do you agree with this? I will probably return the lens because I don't have access to a repairshop and besides I've found Fujinon rendition in color to be vastly different from Rodenstock. I prefer more gentle character of the Rodenstock.<br /> <br /> To tell you more about shooting conditions, I didn't use the filters or hood of any kind, totally nothing that could obstruct field of view. Film was EFKE 25 and I've used the film from the same box in the past with good results. I did stand development in HP Combi-Plan using Rodinal 1+100. I don't think the atrifacts come from the development because other sheets from the batch came out OK; all of them were inserted properly and there was enough liquid in the tank to cover them. I'm not an experienced LF shooter but I've never had any issues with my APO-Sironar-N 210mm.</p>

<p>Thanks goes to everybody. You gave me some food for thought.</p>

<p>I am looking for a lightweight field camera for landscape work. I'm transitioning from using my Bronica SLR for landscape work to 4x5 as i'm a type of person who prefers to take this kind of photography slowly and patiently and I think it'll work for me. I've got a 210mm Caltar II-N and plan to add a 90mm lens later, so the camera should take 90mm lens without limiting movements and ideally without a need for recessed lensboard. The longest lens I could use is 300mm.<br>

The price should be not more than $800 since I know i'll need quite some accessories in order to be up and running and i also want to add a 6x12 film back later on. Chamonix can be had new for about this price which looks like a big advantage to me. I also think that Chamonix has a brighter ground glass and more clever features. What does Horseman have to offer? Also I've seen some nice deals on Wista on eBay recently, but I prefer to learn all the alernatives first. Also, we have no LF camera dealers in the city, so go and try is obviously not an option. Thanks in advance</p>

<p>To express the opinion of Bronica that had formed after occasional using it for half a year and intense using on the two travels, I'd like to say that while it is capable of delivering good results, it feels plasticky (especially after touching Leica M3) and not-so well thought-out (or rather error-prone: e.g. I have wasted a couple of shots recently because I did not fix the mirror lockup switch in the S position). <br>

<br /> While WLF is good for landscapes, it's tedious when photographing people. To alleviate it, I've bought a 45D prism finder and a speed grip ($140 together), but they are yet to arrive. I also want more format choices. I think about adding a 4x5 field camera plus 6x12 back for landscapes and a 6x4,5 rangefinder for street and travel photos. I also like the feel of TLR: I have a Yashica 635 with Yashicor lens that I bought used at the market in India and I enjoy going out with it. The lens doesn't match my taste, though.<br>

<br />Meanwhile, an hour ago I gave in to temptation to buy a nice Rolleiflex T on eBay. It cost me about $320 with bay 1 hood and filters. I think I'm going to love the contrast of Tessar. Besides, it comes with a bright focusing screen adapted from the Mamiya RZ and has a working meter. Wonderful and lightweight camera. All I need to add is a case and probably 0,7x Mutar. It does work with Tessar, doesn't it?</p>

<p>Jeremy, I see.. That means, most likely P6->P645 adapter also required manually changing the aperture.<br>

Doug, thanks for the information. Actually, I heard there are some 180 Sonnars adapter to Pentax 67. I'm just not looking for a P67 at the moment :)</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I am considering buying a Pentax 645 body for CZJ Sonnar 180 MC. Can you tell me if the P6 -> P645 adapter supports the auto stop-down? I will be shooting also the landscapes where tele is appropriate and changing the aperture manually every time from 2.8 to a smaller one would be painful. Thanks.</p>

Metering at a blank wall answered my questions. With exposure correction of 1.3 (or 1.7 in bright sun..) the readings of my Gossen lightmeter agree closely with the readings of the F100. There's no deviation that I pretended to have noticed before. Thanks everybody for the valuable advice!

<b>Randall</b>, I am using a fresh 9V alcaline battery.

Hm.. Note that in dim light Gossen actually overexposes the picture as compared to Nikon and in bright light - underexposes ;) I've been very happy with spot metering in my Nikon and because of this deviation I'm a bit worried if Gossen will work out for me. Seems I should test it with some (slide) film :)

Hello,

I have bought used Gossen Luna-Pro F exposure meter with variable angle

attachment and i'm comparing now its readings with readings of my (reliable and

tested) Nikon F100. I have attached 50mm lens to the Nikon as its angle of view

is most close (from the lenses I have) to that of Gossen, set ISO 100 and f/8

and went out to a balcony on sunny day. And yeah, I have set angle of view of

variable angle attachment to 7.5 and selected spot metering mode on the Nikon.

 

Now if I point the meter at the object (lit piece of wooden furniture) for

reflected reading and take the measurements I notice that Gossen somewhat

underexposes the scene as compared to Nikon. I give it 1.3 or 1.7 exposure

correction (in addition to that needed by variable angle attachment) to

compensate this and now it looks more like normal. But Gossen is much more

sensitive to light and dark than F100:

* I take the measurements of the street and nikon reads 1/320 while gossen reads

1/500 at f/8

* I point the meter at the black bag in the corner of the room and gossen reads

1/2 sec while nikon - 1/6 at f/8.

 

Isn't that strange? Am I missing something?

> I have two 1000s bodies, one better than the other.

 

Guys, can you tell me more about this camera? What advantages does it have compared to newer 645 Pro and 645 Pro TL? I have heard that it has non-interchangeable back, but also some interesting design solutions such as top body shutter release button.. Also I heard of a guy who used an adapter ring to attach MC biometar 2.8/80 carl zeiss jena DDR to this camera - is this adapter ring easy to find?

Finally I have bought Bronica SQ-Ai with waist-level finder, 120 film back, Zenzanon 80mm F/2.8 PS and Zenzanon 50mm F/3.5 PS for about $600 (not incl. shipping). Can't wait to get hands on it, but I'm pretty sure I'll also buy a Rolleiflex in future :)

sorry for the typos, i was a a bit hurried ;) i meant "the ability to attach 50mm wide angle lens to MF SLR"

Thank you for your tips. This forum is simply the best. I have a couple of days to decide and men, this decision is complex :) I am considering three options: Rolleiflex 3.5e or 3.5f with average wear, Mamiya RZ67 Pro with Sekor Z 110mm f/2.8W and 120 film back for $650 and Bronica SQ-Ai with Seiko PS80mm lens and film back. Both Bronica and Mamiya are in good condition. Bronica is almost 1kg lighter and is capable of producing good results when shooting hand-held. This forum as a nice comparison thread.

 

Mike: I am OK with shooting from Rollei's 80mm focal length most of the time. It will work. But I love wider angle as well, so the ability a 50mm wide angle lens to MF SLR camera is quite valuable. Mamiya RZ and Bronica have the nice ones.

Additionally, using ND and polarizing filters or polarizer on TLR looks tricky for me. ND is difficult to live without when shooting b/w or slide film with narrow exposure. Hey, when I was in Tibet it was basically indispensable :)

Doug, nice shot.

Ronald, I live in Ukraine. Processing is not that big issue here...

Thanks to all for the valuable comments!

And yes, I have a Nikon F100 with fine lenses so I don't feel like I need a modern 645 format camera:) So would you recommend getting a Rolleiflex?

Hi,

I am choosing an inexpensive camera to make the jump into MF. After rejecting

Mamiya TLR (and RZ67) for being too bulky i'm left with two choices: mamiya 645

pro tl and used rolleiflex (and I could put Bronica SQ-Ai onto the list as well,

but they are in somewhat short supply on eBay and adorama).

I like 6x6 and 6x7 formats much more that 645 format though. I do mostly

landscapes and street photo, less portraiture. I wonder if you use your

Rolleiflex for landscape work and how it feels compared to SLR. Is it suitable

for long exposure shots?

Thank you for your hints.

Forgot to add, of course I know keh.com, but I've heard that shipping can take up to 3 weeks, which is unacceptable. Is this a reliable information? Please advice.

Hello,

Since it's virtually impossible to get Contax G2 here in Ukraine, I'd like to

get one on my trip to Vancouver in October. Can anybody recommend me a local

store that sells Contax G-series in Vancouver, what is preferred, or online

store that can ship item withing 10-12 days?

Thanks in advance!

Andrew