brian_reischl

<p>I've got the 055XPROB. It's nice for macro, the swing out column is handy. It's a bit big for any serious hiking (ie, multiple uphill miles). <br>

I've also considered macro focusing rails. They're supposed to be handy, but I haven't tried them myself. </p>

<p>What Dan just said was very good. I'd second his thoughts on polarizers.</p>

<p>Filters aside, remember that foliage is particularly sensitive to the direction of the light. Front lit foliage usually looks dull and boring. Backlight will make it much more vivid. Sidelighting can work sometimes as well. </p>

<p>In post processing, I use curves for general toning on everything. After that, blending modes can give you interesting results. Try creating an adjustment layer with no actual changes (eg, a "curves" layer with a straight line) and change the blend mode to Soft Light or Multiply. They're strong effects, so remember to try dropping the opacity and/or masking out areas if necessary. </p>

<p>If you're up for something more complex, a digital version of the Orton Effect can work well with some shots. There are a lot of tutorials out there for it. If your version of Photoshop supports Smart Objects use them instead of Layers, as they'll make it much easier to tweak the effect. </p>

<p>The 5 shots <a href="http://cinchphotography.com/Packages/AutumnGold/11535696_3ppGF#811427098_5awBW">in this gallery</a> have some of all of these techniques applied in varying amounts. I think it's obvious which are more heavily manipulated. :) </p>

<p>Months ago we planned a trip to New Orleans. Since the Deepwater Horizon disaster I've been watching the news, so yesterday I saw that some of oil had reach Grand Isle, LA. This seems like a (hopefully) once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see an acute ecological disaster in progress, so I'm planning to take a day trip. <br>

I'm looking for nearly any advice anyone has, particularly from LA locals. Is it still possible to get to Grand Isle? ie, has access been shut down. Will they keep people like me away from the beaches? Is there any particular place/time I should go? Is this a bad idea for some reason?<br>

Thanks in advance!</p>

<p>There's a free program called Enfuse that can do it too. I've messed around with it for HDR and found it to be a bit difficult to handle. It has lots of options and not the best UI ever.<br>

<a href="http://wiki.panotools.org/Enfuse_reference_manual#Focus_Stacks_.E2.80.93_Depth-of-Field_Increase">http://wiki.panotools.org/Enfuse_reference_manual#Focus_Stacks_.E2.80.93_Depth-of-Field_Increase</a></p>

<p> </p>

<p>I think you've got it right Lilly - this guy looks a lot like some of the examples at <a href="http://www.wildherps.com/species/C.collaris.html">WildHerps</a>, particularly the ones near the bottom. <br>

Thanks for your help! </p>

<p>Hello all,<br>

I'm trying to identify what lizard is pictured below. This photo was taken in the Four Corners area of Colorado in the U.S., at the Ute Mountain Tribal Park. Any help at all would be appreciated.</p>

<p>Thanks in advance,<br>

BKR</p>

<p>Larger image in gallery: <a href="http://bkr.smugmug.com/Vacation/Mesa-Verde-2009/9626242_dNZyx#658231454_APVJp-XL-LB">http://bkr.smugmug.com/Vacation/Mesa-Verde-2009/9626242_dNZyx#658231454_APVJp-XL-LB</a></p>

<p><img src="http://bkr.smugmug.com/Vacation/Mesa-Verde-2009/IGP3902-199/658231454_APVJp-S.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="268" /></p>

<p>I would think the people would have to be composited in. There's no way they sat perfectly still for long enough to get the star trails. They would look very soft if they had tried. Also, the star trails go behind their heads, so I don't think it could be a multi-exposure, or that they were strobed and then moved out of frame.<br>

The rest of it may have been natural light though.</p>

<p>The most in-depth article I've found on this is here: <a href="http://toothwalker.org/optics/dof.html">http://toothwalker.org/optics/dof.html</a></p>

<p>The short version is that as the magnification increases, the focal length matters less. By the time you get to 1:1 magnification, the focal length is irrelevant. </p>

<p>I have no idea, but Mike Moats wrote a blog post about how he does it: <a href="http://tinylanscapes.wordpress.com/2009/11/29/so-you-want-to-be-a-nature-photographer/">http://tinylanscapes.wordpress.com/2009/11/29/so-you-want-to-be-a-nature-photographer/</a></p>

<p>If you look around, there a number of similar articles/posts by various other photographers. Good luck!</p>

<p>As David Henderson noted, Colorado was not so great this year. The aspens had some sort of parasite that was causing dark spots on the leaves and causing them to drop early. Lots of trees were bare while their neighbors were still green. We also have ongoing problems with the pine beetles, so there are enormous amounts (tens of thousands of acres) of dead pines around.</p>

<p>So not a great year for shooting wide expanses of trees, though there were some good pockets. </p>

<p>I got a pair of convertible gloves similar to what others have mentioned. Actually, I got these exact ones: <a href="http://www.rei.com/product/772205">http://www.rei.com/product/772205</a></p>

<p>They fingers are good enough for operating most of the camera controls, though I doubt I could handle film with them. The over-wrap/mitten part is very thin, but helps a lot. I actually find that 90% of the time I leave that on and can still operate the camera through it. </p>

<p>The may not be thick/warm enough for subzero use though.</p>

<p>Dan,<br>

The auction you linked to is for the f/1.2 version. Nancy's photo clearly shows that she has the f/2 version. That stop-and-a-half difference changes the value quite a bit. :)</p>

<p> PentaxForums keeps lens reviews, as well as self-reported average prices. The f/1.2 averages almost $500, the f/2 averages $37.50. </p>

<p><a href="http://www.pentaxforums.com/lensreviews/showproduct.php?product=129&cat=28">http://www.pentaxforums.com/lensreviews/showproduct.php?product=129&cat=28</a></p>

<p><a href="http://www.pentaxforums.com/lensreviews/showproduct.php?product=126&cat=28">http://www.pentaxforums.com/lensreviews/showproduct.php?product=126&cat=28</a></p>

<p>BKR</p>

<p>I've found myself in possession of a Sakar 80-200/4.5 Macro zoom, in what I'm reasonably certain is a Minolta MD mount. The lens isn't useful to me, as I shoot Pentax and there's no adapter available. It's in perfect shape cosmetically, though there appears to be some sort of bubble or blemish between two of the elements.</p>

<p>So what should I do with this lens? Is it worth trying to sell? I suppose I could use it for a paperweight. What else? I'm looking for actual suggestions, but off the wall ones are fine too. Maybe I'll take it apart and use the glass to make a hanging mobile. :) </p>

<p>I've got the Sigma APO as well - and I second everything Camus just said. I rarely use the macro on it. I find the working distance to be too far for indoor work, and the lens too slow for outdoor work. YMMV.<br>

I use my Tamron 28-75 more for "macro" work. Even though it only gets to 1:4. I still like it better than the Sigma. </p>

<p>I shoot a K10, my GF shoots a K100 with 2100 mAH Eneloops. Neither of us uses flash very much. I typically get ~900 shots per battery, she gets maybe ~400/set. She also routinely leaves the camera sit for weeks and then shoots with no problems. I would not worry about the battery life unless you shoot a LOT (ie, 1000's of shots/day) or if you buy crappy rechargeables. </p>

<p>re: "smart" chargers, I think my LaCrosse qualifies. Its normal mode of operation is to discharge each cell completely, then recharge to max. At that point it shows how much energy it put into each cell in mAH. If you really want to know, you can then have it discharge again and tell you how much it got out of the cell. I have used this a few times to identify the weak link in a set of batteries. I suppose if you want to test self-discharge rate you could charge them, let them sit for a while and then discharge to see how well they retained the energy. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>So I just had a thought....</p>

<p>Electronic Level Indicator + Rotational SR motors == Self Leveling sensor?</p>

<p>How great would it be if you could just get close to level and let the camera fine-tune the leveling for you? <br>

I haven't seen it mentioned in any of the reviews, but if they have that option I'm leaving it on all the time.</p>

<p>Jacque,<br>

The Tamron is a very nice lens, I've got one and I love it. It's definitely a good walkaround lens, although you will notice the extra weight compared to the kit lens. I didn't pay too much attention to lens weight until I got this one - it's the second heaviest in my kit. </p>

<p> It <i>may</i> not suit your desire for indoor shooting. 28mm is not terribly wide on a crop sensor. Depending on how big your house/apartment is, a wider lens might be better for indoor shooting. You can check pretty easily - zoom your kit lens to 28mm and take some shots.</p>

<p> Also keep an eye on what shutter speed & aperture you're getting from the kit lens. The Tamron will only be 1/2 stop to 2 stops faster, depending on focal length. At 28mm it's probably 1 stop faster, so you could use half the shutter speed (eg, 1/60 instead of 1/30). That may not be enough to let you shoot hand held -- depends on how bright the lights are in your house and how steady your hands are. </p>

<p> I don't want to discourage you from getting the Tamron - it's a great lens. I would just hate to see you drop $400 on a lens and then find out it's not what you need or want.</p>

<p>

<blockquote><dt >Electronic Level Indicator</dt><dd >Finding the perfect horizon is fast and easy using the K-7's built-in Electronic Level Indicator.</dd><dd ><br /></dd></blockquote>

<dd >Is it sad that I think this is the most interesting thing? </dd><dd ><br /></dd><dd >It is an unusual feature though. I don't think I've heard of any other camera having this.</dd></p>

<p>If you're talking about the Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 XR IF, the front ring does not rotate during focusing. That's what the IF means, Internal Focus. I think there's another Tamron 28-75, but I'm not sure. <br>

Anyway, you can still use a polarizer even with lenses whose front element does rotate, it's just that you have to readjust the polarizer every time you focus. It's annoying, but hardly the end of the world. It does make you wish all lens hoods had that little removable window that some of the Pentax hoods have. :)</p>

<p>Ken, over here in the US B&H has the 35 Macro for $530. Heck, the lens cap alone is 30 bucks! </p>

<p>I may have to come over there and buy some lenses. :)</p>

<p>I just had a very similar conversation about this very lens over at PentaxForums. I don't suppose that was you under a different name? <br>

<a href="http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-slr-lens-discussion/59572-mf-sigma-lens-inquiry.html">http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-slr-lens-discussion/59572-mf-sigma-lens-inquiry.html</a></p>

I thought the noise got stored on the SD card and then played out through the computer speakers when you download the photos? :)

But I think you're right that it's "normal." Now that I know what to listen for I checked against a K10D and it makes the same sound. I guess I just never noticed it and then freaked out a bit thinking I had messed up my sensor or something. It does still seem a bit louder than the K10, but I guess I'll just deal with it.

Thanks for the responses everyone.

Hi all,

I just finished blowing dust off of my K100D with a rocket blower, and now the

camera is making an odd sound. It's a sort of low, static-y grumbling sound.

It's not very loud, you need to be within maybe 6 inches of the camera to hear

it. Honestly, it sounds a bit like a hard disk writing, but I can't imagine

there's anything like that going on in there.

The photos from the camera seem to be fine as far as I can tell.

I hear the sound for the entire length of a long exposure. If noise reduction is

on I can hear it for about the same amount of time after the exposure. If noise

reduction is off it bursts a bit after the exposure is done and then stops.

If shake reduction is off then I don't hear the sound during an exposure but I

do hear it during the noise reduction period after the exposure. So I guess

maybe I managed to screw up something in the shake reduction system.

I hear the sound for the entire time that the camera is in cleaning mode, which

I wouldn't think would involve the shake reduction system. But maybe it does?

Unfortunately this camera is going on vacation tomorrow morning. Does anyone

have any hints about how to fix this issue?

Thanks in advance,

BKR

Thanks Jerry, I totally missed Ken's title.

That's seriously disappointing though. There are a lot of situations where I'd like to use trap focus, but it would be nice to be able to also use AF without having to switch lenses or electrical tape. Maybe Pentax will offer an option for this in a future firmware update.