mike_doyle2

Hi

Can anyone help me in my predicament, I have been receiving weekly alerts for the Nikon forum for many years and all of a sudden they have stopped arriving in my email in box, I have searched the site to see where I can reconfigure my profile to receive them again, but with no luck.

Can anyone tell me where I have to go on the forum to start receiving these once a week alerts? Regards, Mike

<p>Brexit I am afraid, is the lame excuse being trotted out on anything post June 23rd that is negative, however, as Rodeo Joe said in an earlier thread, it is amazing how when financial markets fall to the benefit of the consumer the manufacturers tend to drag their heels in passing on any benefits, if at all, the price of petrol is a prime example of this, however on a more positive note another comparison website I use is this one <a href="http://pricespy.co.uk/product.php?p=2716164">http://pricespy.co.uk/product.php?p=2716164</a> and you can type in the product of interest at the top of the page to see what is on offer, I recently used it to pick up a D750, and was even offered a 6 months o% interest deal if I wanted it.</p>

<p>Hi Edward<br>

If you can tell me how I attach a Pdf file to a forum post I can send you the methodology I had passed on to me, and the one that I always use, regards Mike</p>

<p>Hi Michael<br>

Attached image produced from a 30 year old negative using my copy stand and light box method, regards Mike</p><div></div>

<p>Hi Tom<br>

I have been reading this thread with interest, and I too have an ES1 slide copier, I also owned a Nikon Coolscan at one point, then one day some years ago in conversation with a fellow photographer we came to the subject of digitally copying transparencies and negatives, both mono and colour, and having seen some of the examples of his copying I was sold on his method and have used it ever since with remarkable success, I have a Kaiser RA1 Copy Stand, a Kaiser Slimlite light box, and for negatives a Nikon FH-835S 35m strip film holder, I use a Nikon FX format camera with my 60mm Micro lens and photograph the individual negatives 12 at a time in RAW, I then take them into Photoshop where I employ a conversion process that produces, as far as I am concerned pretty accurate results when compared to the originals, with transparencies I photograph them individually, again in RAW, on the light box, normally in batches of about 30 to 50 at a time, then take them into Photoshop to work on the images, this method has worked fine for me and if you wish to see my methodology I would be happy to let you have a copy of my printed workflow, not sure if we can PM on this forum though, I could also send you some examples of thirty year old colour negatives that not only did I process using this method, I even used the mounted enlargements at a number of exhibitions that I presented, I apologise if I have gone off the topic of the ES1 but having tried this method myself, I felt far more at ease with my newly discovered means of copying.</p>

<p>Does the XT2 have built in GPS? Does any mirror less camera have built in GPS? It is essential for my type of photography, and I presently use a Nikon GP1 tethered to my DSLR's, but would love to jump ship to a Fuji mirror less option with in built GPS, maybe it will come with the XT3 or XPRo3!</p>

<p>Hi Shun and Michael, I am grateful for you both taking the time to respond to my request, and am looking forward to venturing out some time soon with grid lines to help me in my photographic projects when recording old churches, your helpful advice is what makes this forum the one I always use as choice, again many thanks for your help.</p>

<p>Michael, thank you for the response, I have now finally found my operating manual, and you are correct, the instructions are there, I intend to order the grid lines screen tomorrow, many thanks again.</p>

<p>Hi Shun, thank you for the quick reply, and yes you are correct it is the focusing screen I wish to change, I am aware that I can call up the grid lines in live view, but my preferred option is to use my camera viewfinder for photography and not live view on the rear screen, hence my request for information on changing the focussing screen that came as standard with my D3, I note that a national Nikon supplier in the UK markets Nikon focusing screens and one with grid lines the "E" Screen, hence my interest in wanting to change to the grid lines.</p>

<p>I would like to replace the standard viewfinder on my Nikon D3 with the "E" Type finder (Grid Lines), however I seem to get the impression that the viewfinders are supplied with no fitting instructions, and wonder if anyone could possibly give me a step by step guide on how to remove the original finder and replace it with the new grid lines finder, and also advise me of any potential pitfalls I may encounter on the way</p>

<p>Thanks for the further information Dwight, I have an older D200 and I am going to try that first, once I have mastered it I will then move on to the D3, I have ordered a Giotto Blower, but am slightly confused with the range of Arctic Butterfly's on the market and am unsure which model will be suitable for the D3 and hopefully the D200 too, until I can get into the city to check out a dealership that will have to wait, as I do not want to order something by mail order and then find it is not the correct product, again thanks for the updated information, regards Mike</p>

<p>Hi Everybody, and many thanks for all the extremely helpful comments, and taking Dwight's advice I read the article by Thom Hogan that was really first class and simply put, I now feel I have the confidence to undertake the sensor cleaning that I previously thought was beyond me, and would have to be undertaken by a professional dealership, fingers crossed once I have bought the necessary items my images will be dust and spot free, again many thanks to you all for taking the time to respond with such informative comments, regards, Mike</p>

<p>I have a Nikon D3 and have some dust spots evidently on the sensor, as I have taken test shots with two different lenses and the spots show in both images, having looked at some answers as to sensor cleaning I am confused by much of the advice given, and before I commit to having a store deal with my issue would like any views of people who have undertaken sensor cleaning on a D3, such as the best cleaning aides to use, and technique. I also noted that one reply said that the D3 sensor was in fact protected behind a screen and it was in fact the protective screen that had the dust spots on, I would be interested to know if that is correct, I look forward to any answers to my problem, thanks all. Mike</p>

<p>Thank you for the comments Natasha, I have now purchased a GP1 and will be testing it within the next week or so, for my purposes I only require what the GP1 has to offer, and when I am out in the field working, I alway carry at least three fully charged spare batteries with me so do not expect battery drain to be an issue, when of course I travel to Europe I also take my charger, enabling me to always have the means to recharge spent batteries. Regarding the compass, most of of my work is from detailed maps that I download to my Mio PDA, once I have located the position, my object is to take the necessary photographs which will record the exact locations/s, via the GP1, so that should anyone, including myself wish to return there at anytime in the furure they will be able to locate the exact position by using the co-ordinates that I have recorded on my website relating to that particular location. Thank you again for your comment, I do appreciate the many comments that my original enquiry generated, it is what makes this forum so unique, and also helpful in allowing members like myself to arrive at balanced decisions, it is also useful when comparisons with other products are made too, thank you again to all posters. Mike</p>

<p>Hi Shun, thank you for the very interesting and informative response, and I agree with you in regard to add ons, as opposed to built in features, and also look forward to Nikon's next offering having the ability to record GPS co-ordinates into its metadata. My reason for these being so important is that I am an historical researcher of the Great War, and often find myself in very out of the way places, most notably trenches and front line positions that were for example in the middle of fields, and I locate them by using old trench maps with the latest maps on a handheld PDA, if when I locate these obscure locations I could take photographs that recorded the GPS co-ordinates, this would then enable me to return to the exact positions at a later time using the PDA, without the need to repeat the previous work with maps, I would also be able to share these co-ordinates with fellow researchers, of course I am referring in the main to research in France and Belgium, but also northern Italy and in the last two years Gallipoli in Turkey, so not exactly somewhere where I can just go and visit on a whim from the UK. As to the accuracy of the GP1, once I have put it to use and proved its technology I will indeed report back, again thanks for taking the time to offer me your advice, regards Mike</p>

<p>Hi Bjorn, Shun and Mike, thanks for the responses, I will go ahead now and order one, but will hold fire on a replacement second camera body in case, as Shun says a replacement for the D3s may have the GPS built into its specification, I am surprised that the GP1 is not given as compatible with the D3s though. Again thanks for your helpful comments, regards, Mike</p>

<p>I own a Nikon D3 and am considering investing in the above device in order to record the locations where my photographs are taken, when I was looking at the compatible cameras it does not list the Nikon D3s. Does that mean the D3s has GPS built into its specification? I am interested to know if this is the case as I will shortly be upgrading my second camera and am considering a D3s body, and if it already has the GPS built in then I would be wasting over £200.00 on the GP1 for my D3. Look forward to your responses, regards, Mike</p>

<p>Thanks everyone, for all your responses I shall within the next few days be a Canon G11 owner, and regarding the challenge laid down by Sarah, I may just try. Again thank you all for taking the trouble to read my questions and offer me advice, regards Mike </p>

<p>Hi, regarding lighting, the archive library that I use has very good artificial lighting, and supplies copy stands and tables that are placed in the ideal positions to utilise this light, I have previously used a Nikon D200 to copy text only documents for half a day, and this raised the need for a silent good quality camera camera, as I became conscious of the shutter noise in such quiet surroundings, with a few raised eyebrows, which did not need comments to tell me they disapproved of the intrusive noise of my camera shutter every few seconds as I turned the pages to copy the documents, hence my decision to explore other options, being a Nikon man at heart I was most disappointed to find that they have no equivalent to the Canon G11, but from comments I have seen on web sites the Canon G11 appears to tick most of my boxes, but having no practical experience I decided to ask the forum members for help in the grey area's, ie; the shutter release cable, this will enable me to remain seated while I am copying the documents, and the ac adapter, which I will definately need as I used three batteries with my Nikon in the four and half hours I spent there last month. Regarding the documents and the light source, the images taken with the Nikon were first class, I took them as Jpegs fine quality. Thanks for the comments look forward to your answers to this post, regards Mike </p>

<p>Hi, I am looking at the Canon G11 as the camera of choice to use to do a lot of copy stand work copying archived documents, can anyone give me an idea of how many jpeg images I can expect to record on a 4GB SDHC card? I would like to use the camera with an AC adapter and also a remote cable release, so anyone who has used this combination may be able to pass on any tips they may have on getting the optimum benefits from this set up, finally is the camera silent in operation, ie: when the shutter is released, or if not can any bells and whistles be silenced?</p>

<p>Hi again everyone, and thanks once again for the constructive advice, I have accepted the argument for the SD cards, and am now going to look at the Compact Camera's available from Nikon, and intend to go down the card reader and dump the images on to the laptop route, I now have to look at the features as I will require a shutter release cable and also a mains electicity power cable as I do not wish to be burdened with batteries and chargers etc. Thanks again for your time, regards Mike</p>

<p>Sorry, maybe I did not explain myself too well, I have been using a Nikon D200 to take lots of images of archived documents for research purposes, however the archive library have pointed out to me that the continued sound of my camera's shutter (mirror) is distracting to other users, and I have to admit that I do understand that, however I still have lots of work to do in this area and so thought that a compact style camera that took good quality jpeg images, and was robust enough to face the challenge of taking upwards of 70,000 images over the course of the next few years would be better suited to my purpose and due to its silent operation would no longer create any form of nuisance to other users. The reason for Compact Flash cards being preferred is that I own both a Nikon D3 as well as the D200 and obviously have lots of CF cards so would prefer to continue to be able to use these for this purpose though would compromise on this issue. I would welcome any comments on what compact camera's are out there that would suit my needs, and finally the library provides camera copy stands so all the work will be done with the camera mounted fixed above the documents, thank you for your comments so far and look forward to some further advice, Mike </p>

<p>Just looking for advice after posting a thread in another forum relating to using a camera in a library to copy documents where a silent shutter action is required. Does anyone know of a good quality digital, camera that is silent in operation, and uses compact flash cards up to 4 GB and takes good quality jpeg images? Thanks, Mike</p>

<p>Can I thank everyone for their contributions, as ever they are a very interesting mixture of options and I certainly now have a little more food for thought, my way forward is still not without problems, but I am considering the possibility of an upmarket compact camera, that will provide me with good quality jpegs, though it would be nice if I could use my Compact Flash cards instead of possibly having to purchase other formats of card storage media, again many thanks to everyone who contributed, it is all gratefully received. Mike</p>

<p>I am thinking of moving on to a Nikon D300s, the silent shutter mode appeals to me as I take document photographs in an archive library and the sound of my D200 shutter can be somewhat distracting to other library users. I would welcome any comments on how the silent shutter mode is engaged and will it cope with three day sessions of six to seven hours in continual use? Look forward to any comments, regards Mike D</p>