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derek_linney

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Posts posted by derek_linney

    Sigma 10-20 mm / F 4.0-5.6 (EX DC HSM) || Sigma 10-20 mm / 3.5 (EX DC HSM)

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>I have previous experience of both the original Sigma 10-20mm and the Tokina 12-24mm but have just purchased the new Sigma 8-16mm. I am amazed by this lens: surprisingly little distortion and virtually no CA but above all else I cannot undertsnad how well it combats flare - with sun either in or just out of the image it simply doesn't seem to produce flare.</p>

    <p>And 8mm is an awful lot wider than 12mm and even than 10mm - trust me, even I was surprised. It does jsut about everything I used to do with a semi-fisheye (on Canon FF) but without the fish-eye distortion.</p>

    AF On Button Question

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>Try it with the CF set so focus is only on the AF-On button and<strong> try it for a few days.</strong> You will find it becomes second nature to press it when you want to focus and you won't miss having AF on the shutter release. Now I cannot stand having the shutter button mess up my focusing.<br>

    One-Shot - press & release to lock focus. AI-Servo - press and hold while you want tracking.</p>

     

    Nikkor 24-85/2.8-4

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>Heinz,</p>

    <p>Probably irrecoverable but ................. take the lens and submerge it in FRESH, CLEAN water - you cannot do any more harm and it might clean out any gunk / dirt from the original water. Leave it to dry <strong>completely</strong> before you try anything.</p>

    Advice re: AF-L setup on D60/D90

    in Nikon

    Posted

    <p>I am used to shooting Canon DSLR's and my preferred set up is to have AF-Lock on the AF Button (recent cameras) or the *-Button (older cameras). The way it works is effectively Lock & Hold - once released it holds the focus. I then use the shutter release button (1/2 press) for AE-Lock and fully pressed for shutter release. On the Canon cameras with this setup the camera knows that I am controlling focusing so doesn't try to lock me out in either One Shot (AF-S) or AI-Servo (AF-C) mode irrespective of whether I achieved focus. This works fine for me.</p>

    <p>Now on my D700 I can achieve the same thing by setting AEL/AFL Button to AF-ON (takes focus off the shutter release button and enables AF Lock (even if I then release the button - so it's effectively Lock & Hold) and setting the release priority mode of the shutter button to "release" so it doesn't lock me out.</p>

    <p>BUT on my D60 and D90 I can't seem to set it up how I want. I can put AF-ON on the AEL/AFL Button. But now if I focus and lock focus (finger off the AEL/AFL button) and I recompose and go to take the shot it sometimes won't let me shoot because the camera thinks it hasn't achieved focus and therefore locks the shutter release. This seems to happen all the time in AF-S mode on both D60 and D90 and also in AF-C mode on the D60 but seems OK on D90.</p>

    <p>Am I missing something in the setup?</p>

    <p> </p>

    canon 85mm 1.8 vs 1.2 bokeh quality

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>Unless you intend shooting at f1.2 or f1.4 <strong>a lot of the time</strong> then it isn't worth it. If you take the time to learn how to exploit the f1.2 lens then it produces results that have a unique characteristic.<br>

    see:<br>

    <a href="http://www.takebetterpictures.co.uk/galleries/boroughmarket/">www.takebetterpictures.co.uk/galleries/boroughmarket/</a> for example.<br>

    Is this worth the cost: only you can tell.<br>

    Derek</p>

     

    Wedding hire

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>I would suggest that the 24-70 would be good on the crop body. However, I would strongly recommend using a flash as well. Set the flash exposure compensation to -1.5 or -2 and then shoot in Av mode. You will then be exposing for the ambient conditions but the flash will give great fill-in light to lighten shadows which are a problem both outdoors (if the light is sun rather than overcast) and indoors.<br>

    If shooting indoors with low ambient light then set flash compensation to zero but try to use the flash bounced off walls / ceiling (if white / neutral colour) or if bounce isn't possible use a diffuser over the flash.<br>

    Derek<a href="http://www.takebetterpictures.co.uk"></a><br>

    <a href="http://www.takebetterpictures.co.uk">www.takebetterpictures.co.uk</a></p>

     

    Help needed about af canon lens

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>I agree that the 24-85mm f3.5-4.5 is a good option. It's been eclipsed in the digital era by the 28-135 IS lens but for many years was my main lens on a succession of EOS Film bodies - 50E, 5, 3, 1V.<br>

    The other option is the 28-105mm f3.5-4.5 USM (not to be confused with the plastic f4-5.6 version). These are good, robust and cheap</p>

    <p>The 50mm f1.8 has to be a good choice - cheap but good image quality and max aperture.</p>

    <p>Derek<br>

    <a href="http://www.takebetterpictures.co.uk">www.takebetterpictures.co.uk</a></p>

     

    Canon Lens specifications sheet updated

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p >I have updated my Canon Lens datasheets with additional information on the TS-E 24mm L II and various minor corrections.<br>

    Please do let me know of any errors. <br /> <br /> <a title="Click to open link in a new browser window" href="http://www.gallery1.co.uk/canon/" target="_blank" title="Click to open link in a new browser window" >http://www.gallery1.co.uk/canon/</a> <br /> <br /> -- <br /> Derek <br /> <a title="Click to open link in a new browser window" href="http://www.takebetterpictures.co.uk/" target="_blank" title="Click to open link in a new browser window" >http://www.takebetterpictures.co.uk</a></p>

    Are there any downsides to having sharpness-max when shooting jpeg?

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>I think the answers you are being given are assuming you are more advanced than you are in your handling of digital images. To answer your question: if you shoot jpegs then if you apply no sharpening your images will look soft but with too much sharpening you will tend to get three things happening - a) the pictures start to look artificial rather than natural b) you get noise and c) you get sharpening artifacts like halos around objects.<br>

    So generally speaking you would be better off leaving the sharpening at the middle or normal setting rather than low or maximum.</p>

    <p> </p>

    RAW Question

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>Nick: certainly upgrade DPP since its free. But if you are not a real heavy duty Photoshop user you may like to consider Lightroom - this has ACR embedded within it and enables you to manage your image library, convert raw files and do a lot of the basic editing from within Lightroom itself and only occasionally do you need to go out into CS2, CS3, CS4, Elements or other editing program.</p>

    C1 C2 C3 Settings for 40D

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>Everyone probably has their own "most used settings". I set mine up as:<br>

    C1 - ISO 200, One Shot AF, Single Frame, f8, Av, Raw<br>

    C2 - ISO 400, Continuous Focus, Low Speed Continuous Drive, f5.6, Av, Raw<br>

    C3 - ISO 800, Continuous Focus, High Speed Continuous Drive, f5.6, Av, JPEG<br>

    so I can easily switch from static to moving to high-speed subjects.</p>

     

    Focal length and perspective

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    The answers are correct but overcomplicated.

    <p>

    a) Perspective is purely a function of distance camera to subject as stated<p>

    b) If you put a 50mm on a 1.6x camera and a 80mm on a FF camera to take a portrait then they would have the same angle of view so you would stand the same distance from the subject to fill your picture frame with the subject<p>

    Hence<p>

    c) The perspective will be the same.

    <p>

    If you<p>

    d) Put the 80mm lens on the 1.6x camera it would have a narrower angle of view (like that of a 128mm on FF) compared with the same lens on FF and so you would end of standing further away from the subject and hence: <p>

    e) The perspective would be affected (more telephoto flattening of perspective)

    5D / Bad noise in shadows at ISO 100?

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    Is the histogram normal or is it heavily biased to the left. As stated significant underexposure (for whatever reason) would cause noise in the shadows. If this is causing the effect then it should be obvious from the histogram.

     

    One cause of differing exposure could be if you have accidentally switched from say matrix to spot metering.

    Unusual macro set up...will it work?

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    Save yourself money and for the moment buy some cheap extension tubes and use your current lens(es). IF you get bitten by the macro bug THEN is the time to buy a proper macro lens. The best value macro lens by far is a used Canon 50mm f3.5 - brilliant and cheap and works with AF / Autoaperture on your Rebel.

    My new 24-70mm

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    You will pay 17.5% VAT and possibly some Duty (approx 5%) and in addition there is usually a "Collection fee" for the monies from DHL of around 20 UKP. Note the VAT and Duty is charged on the total cost including shipping. I generally reckon to simply add 25% to the cost from B&H (Price + Shipping)to get a pretty good estimate.

    40D and BG-E2 / BG-E2N and AF-On

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    I have tried my older BG-E2 grip on my new 40D and I have a dilemma: I like the

    placement of the new AF-On swith on the 40D - I have always used CF4 to move AF

    to the *-button but the AF-On button is much better placed.

     

    BUT the BG-E2 only has the *-Button so if I want to use that to focus when in

    vertical mode I have to enable "Switch AF-On & *-button" but then I'm back to

    using the *-button when in landscape position.

     

    1. Is there any way round this I haven't spotted?

    2. Is it the same with the new BG-E2N grip?

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