yusuf_dacat

<p>this has helped enormously. it turns out that the back up (an M2) has parallax issues -- nothing that a good CLA should address. <br>

The regular camera: a Leica MP with a Summilux 35mm ASPH is fine. I suppose if I have a follow up and tangentially related question, it is to ask if people have techniques that compensate for the angle of view issues. At infinity the camera seems to be remedied from a accommodating shift of the lens and body to where I estimate the Viewfinder was when I framed the image. At close range, things seems to be off. I am working and traveling with a Leica (no space for an SLR or Twin Lens Rolleiflex) so the best solution given the circumstances would help. <br>

Also, up close even though the lens moves down and to the right, frankly, there does seem to be some parallax issues as well as part of the image gets cut off or framed incorrectly. If I can figure out the principle, I can figure out the solution necessary, but, as usual, I want to tap the wealth of other people's experiences first.<br>

thank you again for the generous responses. </p>

<p>so I am trying to figure out how to best compensate for the leica parallax with this lens, and have found the answers with regard to general leica parallax pretty unsatisfactory or confusingly written. <br>

any tips?<br>

particularly with this lens?<br>

any help would be greatly appreciated. I am getting a little frustrated with cut off heads in pictures or more of an image than I had framed. <br>

please respond if you have this lens or have used it. <br>

also, please save the 'go do some tests' remarks -- i intend to do that as well this week, but thought I would weigh in on what others have found until such time as I can really do some testing myself. <br>

I am trying to isolate the tendency of the parallax and then figure out how to compensate for it. <br>

thanks.</p>

ahh--i see that I just need the lens and some superglue. Great (no more fiddling around with

copper)

where do you fix the lens on the protruding circular metal rim?

Matt,

lo and behold, I just heard back from Greg Weber with the same news: he does not have

any replacement viewfinders.

I am going to look over your instructions a few times. I do not wear glasses, so hopefully

the scratching issues you mentioned will not be an issue.

Do let me know if you found any other Hexar viewfinder sources since your own solution. I

fear that I am not as confident a handyman as you and your dad are (!)

Bill, you are spot on.

That piece is missing form what I can tell. There is no rubber ring there whatsoever. Is yours

in the image above rubber?

Anyone know where I can buy one? I may try the Greg Weber contact mentioned above, but if

anyone has any other leads....

John, thank you so much for the pointer to Greg Weber. He did indeed turn up at the top

of the page on google and I just looked at his site. I am going to shoot him an email now.

What sucks is that the camera works perfectly except for this problem--it appears that

some thing is either unhinged or has fallen off as the electronic light meter readings,

shutter and all other mechanical features seem to be operating smoothly. Were there a

diopter on this camera, I am sure the problem would be solved. Hopefully it can fixed for a

reasonable price...

Thanks again to everyone for chiming in with your suggestions. Much appreciated.

I have a Konica Hexar RF that was fine until a few days ago. Now everything through the viewfinder is

blurred.

Did I mess up an adjustment on the camera and not realize it or did a viewfinder piece fall off while I was

out? I just got a hold of the thing from a friend and did not have it long enough to recognize if a piece fell

off. I am hoping someone here has enough experience with these cameras either to tell me which button I

pressed by accident or that indeed this is a common problem and something on the viewfinder fell off. In

the even that it is the latter, can anyone recommend where I might be able to get replacement parts and

the whole thing fixed?

Thanks in advance.

John,

Thank you.

My setup:

1. Silver M6 with silver 35mm f1.4 asph and 50mm summilux.

2. Black MP with black 35mm f1.4 asph and 50mm summicron

I want to sell one of the setups. You are right though, I did get used to the better

viewfinder on the MP, the m3 style winding lever, and the discretion of a black camera. I

am worried though that the m6 setup with the silver asph f1.4 35mm may be sharper on

small prints and that may make a difference with images when they go to gallery size.

Also, what use are the fucnional benefits of the MP if the images are being sacrificed,

right?

I want a solution so that I can keep the MP, sell the M6 and be satisfied with what I have.

I talked to DAG this week about tweaking my one camera. (loud shutter and slightly

misaligned focus images--normal according to Don there who said this happens after

some time) My only issue is time as I may have to go on assignment to the subcontinent

from NY this coming Wednesday.

After reading your response though, I am now toying with the idea of sending them the MP

and accompanying lenses (black 50mm summicron and 35mm f1.4 asph) to see if they

can resolve the slight softness or lack of contrast that I perceive.

Seeing as you mentioned them and they were also recommended to me by Ken Hansen in

NY (legendary Leica dealer), have you had any experience with them with matters like

mine and do you recommend them for the work that you suggested may be needed?

thanks.

Incidentally, I agree with the 50mm assessment you made. I purchased the summicron for

the MP after a NYT photographer swore it was so much better than the summilux I had on

the silver M6. He was wrong. The bokeh is better on the 50mm summilux and the

sharpness was negligible given the overall better bokeh and lack of flare that I noticed in

my older summilux (non- asph)

"Someone else who has no business owning a Leica or is not quite sure of what he's

aiming for"

Is that directed at me?

If so, I suppose it was not going to be too long before another internet coward reared their

head to malign someone from the safety of their computer terminal.

A few things may be of some interest to you: I posted this question under pseudonym

because I am not interested in being archived by Google for the rest of my life and I wish

to enjoy a certain amount of privacy. Of more interest, may be the fact that I shoot

freelance for National Geographic Society. I received a book in the mail this past tuesday

from the Illustrations Editor which featured my work alongside other photographers like

Ami Vitale. I have shot for the New York Times and my photojournalism has won awards

from the Western Knight Foundation and Annenberg.

The question of sharpness here is somewhat critical because I am in the process of setting

up a show for a Chelsea gallery in NY for the Fall and want to make sure with this new

camera that I am not sacrificing quality that I may have already had with the older Leica. If

I know little about printing, put it down to the fact that I have been to busy making a living

from shooting.

Can you say the same? Or do you scour the internet looking for posts to unleash your

obvious bitterness and amateurish, unfounded snobbery.

That said, I appreciate the good counsel of like-minded, supportive Leica users who

posted above and take the time to make this site an invaluable resource in spite of the

boorish remarks like yours here.

slides Idea is great Steve, thanks!

My concern over sharpness is also directly linked to the focussing issue I mentioned. If in

fact, I can also figure out where the lens is focussing if not precisely where I think it is,

then it will throw much of the low light / wide open shooting I do at night. My feeling is

that if I have summiluxes and am not using the f1.4 aperture (which I do want to do) then

what was the point of paying for the exra f stops?

For now, I think the slides idea is great and am going to give that a shot.

Thanks again guys.

Hi guys.

I have two leica M (one m6 and one Mp) setups, each with its own 35mm (f1.4 asph) and 50mm lens. I

need to sell one of the setups.

I want to test the sharpness of the cameras to see which one is sharper but know so little about printing

that I am lost as how to proceed.

I wonder (from some bad machine prints) whether one of the lenses is in fact ever so slightly softer and

whether one of the lenses is back focussing slightly on one of the setpus--namely that I focus on a point

close up and wide open and actually the camera is focussing slightly behind the point at which I think I am

focussing on.

Any definitive, tried and true methods that will not break the bank?

I've heard conflicting results from people who looked at the cameras superficially.

Thank you in advance