mark_medin

<p>I have a pack that unfortunately looks more like an overgrown holster rather than a fanny pack. The largest it can hold is maybe an XE7 with a short zoom attached. Can't tell you who made it or when (it's well built), it was part of a collection of equipment given to me.</p>

<p>My dad's first camera was a Kodak 3A pocket camera with a Bausch and Lomb lens and red bellows. He must have bought it used since they were no longer being sold when he first came to the US. I had the camera for years, in fact I wanted to use it for my first photography class in junior high but I couldn't find film for it locally. I lost track of it, don't know if I could find it now. Later he bought a simple Kodak Duaflex for family snaps, I think mostly because he forgot how to use the 3A. </p>

<p>I saw the auction and was aghast. I wouldn't want to be the person removing that lens.</p>

<p>I don't agree. My K-01 provides nice images, allows the use of every M42 and most K/M mount lenses (watch that Ricoh pin) and all later Pentax lenses. The brick shape is mere personal preference - my hands are happier with it. I dislike the Sony NEX series due to the lenses of mine dominating the body which forces me to cradle longer telephotos unless I find an accessory grip. The door has never bothered me. I do not suffer from slow AF as I use faster lenses, the LCD issue I solved using a Swivi which is a heck of a lot more comfortable to me than even EVF as it has a built in diopter adjustment which I need, and the eyepiece can be flipped up, converting it to a hood. Very handy and I can install it on any other camera with a similar sized screen. Oh, and the battery lasts many, many shots.<br>

<br />I would prefer a K5II for certain features, but for the price there isn't much else that's as capable. I got mine at a blowout price, of course, but they're coming out with more of them. Hopefully there will be more firmware upgrades. </p>

<p>It looks like a different type of DOF preview arm on the lens. I don't see how it could be used on the SR series to couple to a nonexistent TTL meter, the SR-7 having uncoupled metering. The MC tab was the first of that type that I remember on the Minolta.</p>

<p>For anyone who wishes to know, one reason that A-series lenses are more expensive are that they can be used without exposure problems on current Pentax digital cameras. K and M series aren't so easy to use, open aperture metering will be wrong to some extent.</p>

<p>Interesting that the lens on the camera is normally seen on the later MSX/DSX series, hence the SX designation. Doubt that it is original to the camera, but it is likely the same construction. The TL/DTL Auto lenses have a much narrower aperture ring.</p>

<p>I used to see these on the auction site misnamed as Konica CYC. To Rick, I note that the selenium cell on my Olympus EE-S is still going strong. Sure doesn't have the viewfinder features of the Konica, though.</p>

<p>Announced today, along with a cheaper, non-weather-sealed K-500 with the same specs.</p>

<p>It does matter. There's a loss of motion blur at higher shutter speeds giving what's termed a "nervous" feeling to the video. Matt is right in recommending you to experiment. There are instances where you might want to use the higher speed shutter's quality for an effect depending on the subject.</p>

<p>I use ND filters myself if needed, depending on the ISO and frame rate I shoot.</p>

<p>My 58/1.4 (early MC, straight screws on the mount) didn't seem difficult to disassemble or reassemble when I had it apart. There was a Japanese site that had instructions with difficulty ratings for a number of various Minolta lenses (site may be defunct), and as John mentioned the SRT101 manual has instructions for the 58/1.4 as well. Spanner is necessary, and knowing which screws to remove from the lens mount side is important.</p>

<p>There is a little more info there, the post code. It helps narrow down London a little.</p>

<p>I believe it's a Super Ikonta BX alright (I know what scene you're referring to), but as to it being postwar I wouldn't know. Much of TBS was shot some time before its eventual release. </p>

<p>Um, I have a selenium cell Sekonic L-38 Auto Leader which is as old as I am and quite accurate to this day. The best thing with a selenium cell meter is to test it against a known good meter. I have a Yashica-Mat EM whose meter is just as accurate, too.</p>

<p>I don't know how Rollei meters hold up, but just being old and selenium is not a reason in itself to distrust it. </p>

<p>You may have to replace the wire connected to the battery contact if corrosion has wicked up through it. As for replacement of the battery cover, it should be okay if you choose one that holds the same batteries. I have an XD and an X-700, and the battery covers are interchangeable. For those interested, Nikon EM/FM/FE/FG/FA covers are all the same, too.</p>

<p>I've seen the film and it's an Argus alright. Some films from the '30s had Leicas, but I don't have a list. Most of the time what you'll see are both Graflex and Speed Graphics being used. It's a hoot to see cameramen holding those Graflexes upside down, shielding the lens with the dark slide.</p>

<p>The Ai 50/1.8 gets less love in the circles I travel in than the "pancake" Nikkor 50/1.8 AiS. David's does appear by s/n to be of the later batch, with the plastic. It still should be optically excellent.</p>

<p>I think a typical C-mount would vignette on an APS-C sensor, but this lens is odd in that the size is rather large for a C-mount zoom, and it's not even a 10x zoom. It may have been made to fit more than one mount. I'd have some fun with it.<br>

The FG-20 isn't as capable as the FG, but the Nikkor looks as if it's Ai-S, and it's supposed to be better than the earlier Ai. </p>

<p>My "first" was a camera only Gene M could love, a Savoy. I got it just because nobody else wanted it. Of course I was only about 6 at the time, and it didn't get much use. I much preferred the family camera, which I was barred from using at that age because I might "break" it. How anyone <em>could</em> break a Kodak Duaflex just by using it is beyond me. My first real camera I paid for when I was around 11 or 12 was an Olympus Pen S, which I got quite a bit of use out of before it disappeared.</p>

<p>I hate to tell you this, but the lens doesn't match the camera, exactly. That lens went with the DSX/MSX line of cameras which came after the TL/DTL. Good that the meter works, it's the biggest issue with these.</p>

<p>The Pax issue is well known and solvable, it's a variant of the green-grease problem in Agfa folders.</p>

<p>Compatible? Only one way and not really. Any Nikon lenses you get can be fitted onto a Canon if you somehow find an adapter, but not Canon FD lens onto Nikon mount.</p>

<p>As for manual mode, I'm thinking that both the FM and FE models have manual modes, and the FA does as well, though the last two have electronic shutters and so need batteries to power them. If "fully manual" means without battery, stay away from the FE and FA models.</p>

<p>There's the F3 also, which is quite affordable. It needs a battery, though. </p>

<p>I'll let someone else direct you towards lenses, there are too many!</p>

 

<p>I've been sitting on 8 12-packs of M3 bulbs (6 GE, 2 Sylvania), plus a few loose M3B bulbs and about a dozen Press 25. I used to get bags of flashbulbs from thrift stores in the 1990s. This is all that's left. I also had a carton of flash cubes but gave them to someone years ago. </p>

<p>Honestly, I should sell what I've got but I haven't thought about them for a long while.</p>

<p>I don't know that those dots are on <em>all</em> the walls, maybe on one and being reflected on the others. They seem to be too much alike on each surface shown.</p>

<p>Interesting how the lens hacking done on Rokkors can be eliminated, and only the body modified. I've seen some ugly, value destroying (non-reversible) hacks done on rarer Rokkor glass to make them fit the EOS. Better to take a depreciated body and hack that.</p>