aawhite

<p>Manuel, <br>

Thanks for the tip. I am having trouble with "go to tools, select objects, go to copyright symbol"</p>

<p>Please go here to see screenshots of my workflow:</p>

<p>http://www.flickr.com/groups/photoshopsupport/discuss/72157623688836752/</p>

<p>I am trying to watermark my photographs...My workflow is: </p>

<ol>

<li>Create logo in Illustrator</li>

<li>Place as Smart Object on top of Background image in Photoshop</li>

<li>Transform to fit</li>

<li>Adjust Opacity/Fill</li>

<li>Layer Style Effect</li>

<li>Bevel Emboss to desired effect. </li>

</ol>

<p>At this point the Smart Object with Layer Style Effect is on top of Background and the watermark looks good. </p>

<ul>

<li>The problem occurs when I Merge Visible, Flatten, Merge to Top, or Save. </li>

<li>Regardless of what I do, it removes my Bevel/Emboss effect! </li>

</ul>

<p>The watermark is now simply an outline of what I am looking for... I have tried everything: </p>

<ul>

<li>small files</li>

<li>large files</li>

<li>8-bit</li>

<li>16-bit</li>

<li>sRGB</li>

<li>Adobe RGB</li>

<li>ProPhoto</li>

<li>72dpi</li>

<li>300dpi</li>

</ul>

<p>Nothing works. When I flatten, merge, or save the Bevel/Emboss effect is gone. </p>

<p>Any help will be much appreciated. </p>

<p>Marc,<br>

Don't know what your shooting with, but i cant afford an M9 anytime soon...<br>

Canon stood by their camera, thats good enough for m<br>

The bottom line is the camera is 3 years old, well out of the 1 year warranty, and they are FIXING it FREE...<br>

Many companies are much less accountable (namely, Sony), "Out of Warranty is out of LUCK"... <br>

Moral: STOP posting ideological nonsense in forums simply for some personal sense of negative satisfaction. </p>

<p>My 5D's mirror fell off yesterday on a shoot...I was changing lenses and I heard a clink, sure enough the mirror was sitting on the street. I didn't immediately know what it was but it looked important. I picked it up put it in my pocket and walked away. I went to take a photo of the brass band I was hired to shoot and sure enough I couldnt use my viewfinder...I was in Av mode and the photo was grossly over exposed. I immediatley opened the camera and noticed the mirror was just GONE... I fumbled my way through the shoot with no viewfinder and no meter. Other than some loose framing everything went OK considering the ATOMIC MELTDOWN. </p>

<p>Today I went online and Canon's website sure enough has a post about Main Mirror Detachment.</p>

<p>I called them up (they are open until MIDNIGHT!!)<br>

http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=PgComSmModDisplayAct&fcategoryid=215&modelid=11933&keycode=2112&id=55659<br>

They fix this problem for FREE!!! And to boot they send you UPS prepaid SHIPPING LABELS!!<br>

My 5D is 3 years old, and well out of warranty, but Canon really rose to the occasion and stuck by their product. </p>

<p>I LOVE CANON</p>

<p> </p>

I am letting a friend use my digital darkroom to print about 8 8.5"x11" prints for an upcoming show...i am doing her a favor, but need to be

compensated for ink consumption (she is providing her own paper). I have not figured out what it actually costs me to make a 8.5"x11"

color print on the Epson R2880....anyone know (ballpark)?

Well i truly believe my best photos to be worth even the highest of what you all have suggested. It is my first go round at

selling my work, so I will be modest yet fair to my work.

$125 it is.

Arthur, thank you for your interest. The Eiffel shot your speaking of is the close up or the distant? It wouldnt be

abnormal to price some 75 and others 125?

My area is New Orleans...not the strongest economy in the world, but people here appreciate quality. The show is on a

local street in a artsy district, which is not the same as Soho, Beverly Hills, etc. New Orleans is a very casual place.

Its not that I dont think people will pay $135, or that my work is not worth $135... but it is my first show, and I want to be

modest about the price (and selling my first print would feel pretty damn good).

I mean to ask, from the experience you all have at lesser/unknown photographer's shows what is the average price for a

good 8.5x11 print?

I seem to be retaining the shadow detail best when I print from ABW with a setting of DARK.

The print also seems most neutral when H:3, V:3...Epson Standard seems a bit cool.

"3_Not sure what you mean by calibrated monitor colorimetric?"

- yes that was a typo. I mean Calibrated Monitor

"Have a look at this small image"

- where is this image?

I have my first "real" show coming up and I am unsure what to charge for my prints.

I will be displaying 20 8.5x11 prints matted in 11x14 frames.

The frames will be cheap $3 ones from Adorama.

The prints will be printed on Epson Premium Luster paper on an Epson 2880 w/ K3 inks.

The mattes will be hand-cut white matte board.

I Print with an Epson 2880 with K3 inks.

The content is artistic, but by no means abstract or alternative.

For a sample of my work you can visit my flickr page and browse (none of the documentary work will be in the show).

Link to flickr:

My initial ideas were $50-$75 per print.

n.b.

In Soft Proof should I Simulate Paper?

Patrick,

Been following your posts in the forums I previously searched for answers to my question. Firstly, are you still using the

"Channel Mixer" method of B&W Conversion, or have you adopted CS3s B&W Conversion? If not why?

Secondly, by following your workflow stated above I have made some excellent B&W prints on Hahnemuhle 308, but

cannot yet test it on Luster for I am out of Photo Black Ink. I am confident that by following the same procedure Luster

prints will be better than before.

Just for kicks could you give me a rundown on your color workflow?

Mine is currently:

1 - Calibrate Monitor Colormetric

2 - Edit Image

3 - Soft Proof (Relative & ICC Profile for Printer/Paper, Black Point On)

4 - Photoshop Manages Colors, Relative Colormetric, Black Point On

5 - Disable Color Management in the Print Dialogue

6 - Select Paper, Speed, Quality

7 - PRINT!

Epson 2880 if you do not need to print larger than 13x19 sheets or 13x44 roll... After a bit of trouble, and help from Patrick I

have been printing gorgeous B&W...It takes a good workflow, but has excellent results. The color prints I've made are

stunning (provided you have correct ICC profile, calibrated monitor, ink).