jason_george3

Anybody have this combo of gear, and able to make the three work together? I would love a solution to

this, as Nikon Scan 4 (as far as I can tell) won't work as a plug-in to the Photoshop CS3 Import menu.

Much thanks,

Jason.

Hi there- curious to know if anyone has made a 44" print from an Epson 3800. Any tips on how to go

about this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ! Jason.

Hi there; does anybody know if you can make a very long exposure with a Hasselblad Xpan (ie star trails

etc...) I am enquiring about both models, series 1 and II. Thanks. JG.

Hi there; I am searching out a "digital darkroom" (yes, a printer) and am wondering what feedback some of

you might have on the following:

I would like the print to be like a cibachrome in that it can be printed to 16 x 20, or larger, and not ripple,

buldge, etc when it is framed and hanging on a wall over the seasons. The Cibas old old had a wonderfully

stiff base (polyester, I believe) and never had that problem. My goal is to avoid extensive mounting/ print

preparation: print it, mount it, frame it.

Ultra glossy surface: like the cibas, I prefer a nice glassy look on the paper; I went from printing cibas to

lightjets on the fujiflex material which has been wonderful, but would love to able to print up to 16 x 20's

at home and make them come out archival, polyester based (stiff and wrikle free) and with the same snap

that cibas / lightjets have (or close to it).

If any of you believe that there is no reason to go this route (and outsource to a bureau for lightjets), I wil

keep the prints to portfolio size and content myself with non-fine art prints.

I am looking at the Epson Stylus 3800 Pro version.

Much thanks and have a great day.

Thanks for all the suggestions- I did have long expsoure noise reduction turned off, but high

ISO noise reduction on, so perhaps it was that. I found that long exposure noise reduction

took heaps of time, so switched it off- I wonder if this would disappear shooting tethered to

a laptop.....

The D200 I was using allows a 30 sec exposure (exposure time) so bulb was not necessary,

nor would I want to monitor a stopwatch for hours on end.

Shooting night sky time lapse; intervalometer was set to 1 frame every 30 seconds- the exposure time

was 30 seconds; camera would wait to expose next frame for 30 seconds; not the desired behaviour; the

idea was to get the intervalometer to shoot one frame every 30 seconds, ie no break in exposure-

changing the interval did not help- the computer counted down as if it had made exposures it hadn't (ie

interval is set to 1sec, one 30 sec exposure exposed 30 frames! The gap between shots was elimiated, but

it wasn't a solution. Anybody have any thoughts on this one? JG.