adam_gifford

<p>I upgraded from a digital rebel to a t1i, and everything that i noticed about it seemed better. Burst buffer is way larger, screen is way larger, settings aren't removed from the firmware like in the rebel, etc. <br>

It's a night and day upgrade in my opinion. I can't promise the af is faster, its not something i tested, but everything else is completely worth it.</p>

<p>What would you do with the resulting "tall" video? TV's don't rotate....</p>

<p>I like my canon 10-22 ef-s. 10mm (on a crop) is pretty darn wide. Its a little pricey though.</p>

<p>Sigma, tamron, tokina i believe all have lenses for less $$$ in similar focal ranges though.</p>

<p>I believe most of the FD-EOS adapters cause you to lose infinity focusing, making the lenses not particularly useful.<br>

The answer might be "None".</p>

<p>For live-view, it appears that all the current rebels (xs,xsi,t1i,t2i) listed on canon's site have live view.</p>

<p>Buy some low self discharge NIMH batteries to go with the flash. Sanyo eneloop or any of the other "pre-charged" / hybrid nimh cells. (Low self discharge cells stay charged longer when not in use).</p>

<p>I have the 430ex for a t1i and it works well enough for my needs. The big differences are of course that the 430ex is less powerful, and can't act as a master flash (for multiple / off camera flashes).</p>

<p>The flash AF assist isn't IR, its red. (and a grid pattern on my 430ex)</p>

<p>I was looking at something more along the lines of a B+W, I don't think i'm ready for a cokin (or other) "System" quite yet.</p>

<p>Is a slim CPL needed for the 10-22 EF-S? I've read a few reports that says it vignettes with a regular cpl.<br>

Are there any downsides to a slim CPL vs a regular one?</p>

<p>I was planning to use it also with my 28-135, after acquiring a 72-77 step up ring.</p>

<p>The main limitation of the 300d, is the buffer is only ~3 frames until you have to wait for all the images to be written to compact flash. Newer models have much larger buffers.<br>

I found this a big limitation when dealing with any action shooting (auto-racing, etc).</p>

<p>That and the review LCD is TINY! compared to a modern rebel (like the t1i).</p>

<p>If money was no object, for a black, compact travel lens I'd get the DO. I'd rather have a ring-usm lens, than a micromotor-USM that the non-do has.<br>

But, money is an issue, so the non-DO was what i purchased. I though it was a very good value at ~$500. I can live without ring-usm for half the price.<br>

Ive been pretty happy with the optical quality of my 70-300 non-do.</p>

 

<p>Canon would only offer a very low end camera without video, for market segmentation purposes. They wouldn't offer a mid-high end camera with less features than the rebel T series.</p>

<p>I like my 28-135, the ring USM is nice since it focuses fast and the front doesn't rotate. It has good reach for a general purpose lens.</p>

<p>The only thing i don't like is that 28mm isnt wide on a crop sensor camera; so it is tough to use it as the only lens i carry. Usually i pair it with my 10-22.</p>

<p>A 2 minute exposure isn't something you are normally going to shoot. The longer the exposure the more "hot" pixels you are going to get.</p>

<p>If they don't show up under more normal shooting conditions, then there isn't anything to worry about.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>If you move to a full frame camera like the 5Dm2, if you are used to the "crop" viewing angle on your lenses your lens lineup is going to act differently.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I'll 3rd that that battery shouldnt have drained at all. Check the menu to make sure the sleep option wasn't completely disabled?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Well, since the models above(7D) and below (T1i, T2i) all have video mode i think its a given that the successor to the 50D will also have video mode(and the other new tech). If the T1i or T2i dont have the features you want (pentaprism, better AF, etc) you might want to wait until the 50D's successor comes out.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>the crop factor affects the EF-S lenses as well.<br>

The main difference is that since the EF-S lenses (in general) have a reduced image circle, they can be made smaller & cheaper.<br>

The 3rd party lens makers also make some reduced image circle lenses that don't use the ef-s mount. But if you use them on a full-frame camera you get severe vignetting.<br>

If you want an ultrawide (10-22mm) or thereabouts you are pretty much going to be getting a reduced image circle lens of some sort.</p>

 

<p>Googling suggests there is no switch on this lens:<br>

Tokina’s exclusive One-touch Focus Clutch Mechanism allows the photographer to switch between AF and MF simply by snapping the focus ring forward for AF and back toward the camera to focus manually. There is no need to change the AF-MF switch on Nikon cameras** and there is no second AF/MF switch on the lens for Canon, everything is accomplished by the focus ring. </p>

<p>Posting for a friend -<br>

The focus ring on his 11-16/2.8 is supposed to push/pull into and out of AF/MF, but in MF mode it still rotates from the AF motor. Is this a common issue with this lens? His concern is about the gears stripping.</p>

<p>He's trying to decide whether to get a replacement lens, or switch to another ultra wide crop lens.</p>

<p>A friend of mine just ordered and got one from B&H last week, so they must be getting a few. He had not been on a waiting list either - just saw it had gone back in stock on their website.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Any word on whether it has manual control over shutter speed and aperture in movie mode? That's the main thing i thought was missing from my T1i.</p>

<p>The T1i video is pretty good im my opinion, but you have no manual control over it on the rebel. This means if it picks the wrong settings it doesnt look as good as it could on one of the higher cameras. (it basically like shooting in P/Green box mode, the 7D & 5Dm2 have full manual control over video settings i believe).</p>

<p>I also moved from the 300D to the t1i, the main things i like about it are the faster shooting rate, and that it can buffer way more than 3 frames before pausing to write to the card. The rear display is also much larger and higher resolution and is much more useful. Live View is somewhat useful as well - can zoom in to make manual focusing easier.</p>

<p>70-300 IS "USM" and the 70-200 F4L are most certainly different AF systems. The 70-300 is the fake micromotor USM, while the 70-200 has real ring type usm.</p>

<p>The front element rotates on the 70-300 and does not on the 70-200.</p>

<p>I suggest you find a different shop rep.</p>

<p>my t1i you can AF while recording, but it seems to adjust the aperture or iso or something while its doing it, making that section of the video basically unusable anyway. I would be surprised if the 5m2 is any different.<br>

Going from memory, i think you have to hit * for it to AF - it takes a few seconds and the brightness changes then too. This must be with the contrast detect AF.</p>

<p>The canon infrared remotes work on the t1i, and they're cheap. They dont have intervalometer functionality though. And you'll have to aim them at the front of the camera.</p>