Jump to content

tim_barker1

Members
  • Posts

    43
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by tim_barker1

  1. <p>I'm doubting that the OP is going to benefit from the brutal "in your face" approach when he is still learning. And when he is working with aspiring models who also are learning. These aren't seasoned pros or models ready to make the jump to pro shoots.<br>

    I've been doing a lot of the same type of shoots as the OP over the last two years, working with a range that includes first-time models and veterans. And I have found that the friendlier approach works very well for me.<br>

    I talk a lot during shoots. Never too personal. You don't come across as a creep. And there is always some sort of music playing - just to avoid uncomfortable silences. I may, at times, suggest they channel some emotion - happy, sad, anger, fear. Some can do it. Some can't.<br>

    I personally prefer moodier images, so I don't look for a lot of smiles. But you can see some of my work at www.timbarker.com.</p>

    <p> </p>

  2. <p>90 percent of the stuff I shoot these days are portraits. I use both an M8 and a D700. For me, I couldn't agree with the comment that M's are inferior for portrait work. They aren't good options if you need to shoot with a long telephoto. But for anything else, a rangefinder will absolutely get the job done.<br>

    Among other things, I find that many subjects are a little less intimidated by the M8. I use mine with a CV 75/1.8, Zeiss 50 Planar and a couple older lenses, including a Nikkor 50/2. I'm very happy with the results I get from them.</p>

    <p> </p>

  3. <p>The problem with the V.4 of the pre-asph summicron is that someone once proclaimed it the "bokeh king," a title that stuck and prompted a significant rise in the price.<br>

    It's why I prefer, and use, the earlier V. 3. It can generally be had for several hundred dollars less. Some say the build quality is better than that of the V.4. And it is every bit as good as the V.4 in terms of the images it creates.</p>

     

  4. <p>My current favorite long lens for tight portraits is the CV75/1.8. (roughly 90mm with the crop factor). That 90 elmar you are using is nice. But I always find that I want the option of shooting wider (at least f2).<br>

    The 50 summicron also is a great option. I recently picked up a 50 rigid summicron for portraits. I love the initial images from the thing - though I would not, personally, use it for tight shots.<br>

    Really, it's really hard to go wrong here, since portraits can be shot with anything.</p>

    <p> </p>

  5. <p>I shot with both a 50 summicron and 50 planar. I ended up selling the summicron, which seemed to flare easier than the planar. If the summicron is a better lens, it's not better in any way that's going to matter to 99.99 percent of us.<br>

    Before I spent anything, I'd ask myself which FL I'm going to use the most. Then I'd find the lens for that. If you like 35mm, you could find a 35 pre-asph cron (v.III) for $900 or so. Great lens. That would leave you $600 or so to pick up a 50 (used planars can be found in that range easily) or a 75/90.</p>

    <p> </p>

  6. <p>I'm a big fan of the planar. In fact, I sold my summicron after buying the planar. Obviously both are very nice lenses - so it's not like you can really make a wrong decision here.<br>

    In the end, I felt like the summicron was a little too flare-prone for my uses.<br>

    I've been using the planar in a lot of portrait sessions lately. Some examples if you care to see them:<br>

    http://zeissimages.com/showgallery.php?puid=805</p>

    <p> </p>

  7. <p>The three summicrons seem like a great kit to me for the M8.2.<br>

    28, 35 and 50 are the only FLs I use with my M8.<br>

    I also have a D700 (before that a D300). The limitations of the RF system just won't allow me to eliminate a DSLR from my kit.<br>

    And I can think of plenty of opportunities that could arise with your grandchildren, where the smallish M8.2 could offer nice advantages over the larger D300.</p>

    <p> </p>

  8. <p>Part of me wants to tell you to sell them both and get a 35mm - as a compromise.<br>

    But if you must choose between the two, it seems like the 50 would be a no-brainer. Of course, I only say that because I know the 50 would fit my own style of shooting.<br>

    I will say, though, that unless you are really good with wide angle lenses (and I don't think that many people are), you're probably going to make better images with the 50s. Certainly you'll enjoy it more if you are shooting portraits of any sort.</p>

  9. <p>When researching lenses, here's a nice site on Flickr - http://www.flickr.com/groups/m-mount/<br>

    You can search photos by specific lens.<br>

    If you are looking at 50s, don't ignore the Zeiss 50 Planar. There are many photographers out there who prefer it over the 50 summicron. The 50 Hexanon - now discontinued - is also a great option.<br>

    I'd never tell a person to avoid Leica glass. But just don't feel like you MUST buy Leica lenses to make great images. There's no doubt that the company makes great glass. But that doesn't mean others don't also make some very fine lenses - at a much lower price.</p>

     

  10. <p>Luis,<br>

    You'll rarely find Leica gear on a site like Craigslist because it's really a niche product. The average person running around this country today has no clue what a rangefinder is. They know Canon and Nikon. Not Leica.<br>

    As someone else already mentioned, go to RangefinderForum if you want to immerse yourself in Leica and other rangefinders. Lots of stuff for sale there every day. Tons of info as well. And I don't mean to take away anything from this site (many users frequent both sites). It's just that the RF forum is where the vast majority of talk is about rangefinders.</p>

  11. <p>I use the last model of the 50 pre-asph summilux (46mm filter, and close focusing to .7 meters). I do prefer the size of the 43mm version, but the prefer the closer focusing of my model.<br>

    I guess the thing may not be as sharp as some of the newer glass, but the thing is plenty sharp for me wide open - where it gets most of its use by me.<br>

    Ebay prices can be a little odd some times. I have my best luck shopping at Rangefinder Forum, here, etc. Or at KEH camera. If you are patient - and quick to act when a deal shows up - you get what you are looking for. If you don't feel like waiting, you'll probably pay a little extra unless you luck into a good deal.</p>

     

  12. <p>Never.<br>

    I have a flash somewhere that I occasionally use with my Nikon D200. But I prefer to do availalbe light photography - and since I'm rarely paid for my work, I figure I am free to do it however I choose.<br>

    So my Leicas (m2 and m8) have never had their hotshoes violated by by a flash.</p>

    <p> </p>

  13. <p>If that is the one with a 46mm filter (telescoping hood) that would be an amazing deal if it really is mint condition. Typically you might be able to find a nice copy of the 2nd version of that lens (43mm filter) in the $900 range.<br>

    I don't know 50 summicrons all that well, but if that really is the newest 50 summicron, $700 seems to be a pretty decent price as well.</p>

     

  14. <p>I ran into a similar situation with USPS. I paid for insurance (which has a signature component). The day the camera was delivered, the buyer put in a dispute on the $600 payment.<br>

    I thought I was safe since I had used delivery confirmation and could produce a copy (from the post office) of the insurance document signed by the buyer upon delivery. I was wrong.<br>

    I had not read closely enough. In its fineprint, Paypal says it only counts a signature confirmation as valid if they can view it online. And unfortunately, the USPS insurance signature cannot be viewed online. After complaining to enough people at Paypal, they offered to split the disputed payment - so I "only" lost $300.<br>

    Since then, I always pay whatever extra fee there is for a signature confirmation. You have to protect yourself, because Paypal sure isn't going to do it for you.</p>

  15. <p>If you have a burning desire to own a Leica M body, then buy one now. You'll get one sooner or later anyway.<br>

    You might consider a less expensive M lens to go along with it - say the 40 summicron, an older 35/3.5 summaron or user-grade 50 summicron. You can find those for $400 to $500 pretty easily.<br>

    If not that, there is absolutely nothing wrong with the CV lens line. That company is making many very nice lenses. And the 50 hexanon can be had fairly cheap. Never used one, but have heard many good things about it.</p>

     

×
×
  • Create New...