john_kjellberg

Bad luck!

I still believe that you should update the drivers in the slightly longer run. Maybe in some not too far future you can try it again. Things ought to be better with sp1.

I suppose you have tried looking for help at nvidia or colorvision?

If possible you could try reinstalling sp1 and hope something went wrong last time??

Prem,

Have you tried updating your video drivers?

John

Some programs show they are active in the taskbar. Maybe you can hear or see that there is activity going on. Or you can start the task manager and try to understand the entries (by searching on the web). If you can guess what program it is you could check the manual (maybe it says that it turns on when the computer is idle).

You could also turn off indexing, user account control and windows defender long enough to see if one of these makes a difference.

Of course the correct answer is Mac....

My computer is acting relatively OK after SP1 and a few more updates, and after uninstalling everything from Symantec. Nowadays I nearly only loose the calibration when I put the computer to sleep. But the way I understand it that is not your problem.

Is there any program starting up when your computer is idle? Anti virus? I think it would be something not from MS.

Sometimes the behavior has changed when I have changed the monitor settings back and forth under "Personalize - Display settings".

I believe the startup version of the problem was solved with sp1.

John

It's a Vista bug. And it acts differently on different machines. Differently over time

on same machine too. It seems to have something to do with security things. Some

have turned off UAC, some have done other things.

You have to be prepared to reload the profile using your profiling program. You do

not need to recalibrate, just reload the video LUTs every time viru..., sorry vista

throws them away.

My next machine will be a Mac.

John

Someone (Kata??) makes a bag which opens on the back side in stead of the traditional front side. That should be much better on mud and stuff (not in deep water though ;-)). But I wonder how that affects ruggedness. It means everything is hanging on the zipper when carrying.

On the topic of padding, a hard plastic board against the back should eliminate irregularities.

The padding against the back does not need to be thicker than the rest. Maybe stiffer but not thicker.

I've seen a picture of a very nice home-built modular pack once. He had taken a classical outer frame from an old-style backpack. On that he had fastened a few shoulder camera bags. It looked really perfect for forest service. But it's not so easy to replicate.

One thing I miss in all existing packs is a clever compartment for extras (sweater, coat, food). The existing ones mostly place this behind the pack. This means placing weight unnecessarily far out behind my back. Weight should be as close to ones body as possible. So I would like a compartment under the camera part (in case something leaks). And maybe an other over the camera compartment.

Also all packs have lots of padding between your back and the camera, which also moves the weight to far out. I suppose that padding is very nice when crawling on the ground with pack on...

One more problem is that all bags except, maybe, the really big ones are too short for my back (I have a LowePro Pro Trekker and it's a bit short, load stabilizers should go at least 10 degrees upward, which they do not). Those big ones are heavy. I also want to carry my lenses with hood on, ready to shoot. Especially if the weather is adverse. So I'd really like a lightweight long big pack that is not so heavy. It does not need to be built for being jammed with stuff. Just a place to protect my gear while keeping it all ready for action.

Last missing extra is a mesh pocket for rainclothes. Typically rain is something that comes and goes. So you need a place for wet rain clothes between showers. An outer mesh pocket would do the trick.

John

I'm a new convert from Arca B1 to RRS bh-55. The Arca has a tendency for problems when it's cold. Gets very unsmooth. The tightening screw is on the wrong side for me (I'm right-handed), which makes me go nuts especially when I'm taking pictures downwards.

But as far as I can judge so far it is much easier to get really high framing precision with the Arca than the RRS. When I tighten the RRS it moves slightly to the right and downwards (maybe half the center focus point on an EOS 5D). The Arca has no such tendency.

But I'm getting better at getting the exact frame I want with the RRS, so maybe it's just a slightly longer learning curve.

The RRS is lower. Nice for macro. It feels really good so far.

David,

Avoid the flip lock quick release from Arca. You have to overtighten it if you don't want your camera to slide in it. It is really hard to open on a cold day (forget trying with gloves on). And if you carry it around open it can actually fall apart.

The system that fits your description best is the Novoflex Miniconnect. Otherwise I really recommend the Really Right Stuff things. Very nice to work with. The plates don't cut into your hands and everything just functions. They remind me of my old EOS1n, seems allways to be better than expected.

Their medium-sized ballhead (BH-40) should be right for your equipment.

By the way I stopped using the battery grip on my 5d after finding out I got sharper pictures without. In both orientations, handheld. On a tripod the bottom of the battery grip is way too soft. Which simplified the choice of plate for me ;-)

John

<a href="http://www.novoflex.com/english/html/index_e.htm">Novoflex</a> makes a very good quick release called Miniconnect. The plates fit ANY camera or lens. And you only need one hand to fasten your camera if necessary.

<p>That said I have started using REally Right Stuff myself. Mostly because of the L-plates (expensive), but also because the Novoflex QR does not fit well on an Arca Swiss or Really Right Stuff ballhead. But I miss its simplicity.</p>

<p>John</p>

Forgot to say:

Shifting angle of the center column is real fast and easy on the Induro I mentioned. And there is a hook at the other end of the column for hanging a counter weight.

I think it works best if you have an <a href="http://reallyrightstuff.com/tutorials/L_plates/index.html">L-plate</a> from really righ stuff because otherwise the ballhead has not enough freedom of movement upward, especially if you angle the center column downward.

John

I just bought an induro CX213, the strongest of the tilting head version. One thing that is better than the Gitzo in my opinion is that the center column turns into a traditional one when used in straight up. So, no trade-off compared to traditional tripod.

On flat ground the tripod is full-sized with center column fully lowered. Quite OK. Can't look through the viewfinder if I use the center column.

I do not know anything about quality yet exept for what the shop said.

John