vasilis1

<p>>Phil: I do not think it's the battery, as the problem occurs only in intense sunshine.<br>

>Puppy Face: I will tell my friend about your experience. I think she using the Canon battery but I' tell her all the same.</p>

<p>Thank you both for responding.</p>

 

<p>A friend has an EOS 450D that heats up and stops working when she is using it for a few minutes under sunshine. Obviously there is something wrong, as I have seen the same model working for hours in the sun without any problem. Anyone with a similar experience? Thanks.</p>

<p>I Have recently acquired a new Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ100 camera. I tried to open Raw images on PS Elements #8 and it was not possible. I had no problem with my earlier Panasonic Lumix version DMX-FZ18. Could it be iincompatibility or am I doing something wrong? Anyone any idea? Thanks.</p>

<p>I have PS Elements #8 since two years. I like to double click on its desktop and open files. Up till two days ago I could see my folders and photos as thumbnails. After several automatic Windows 7 updates I can no longer see thumbnail photos, but the Adobe images (different for each format) instead. Preview at the bottom of the dialog box still works but it's not enough for me.<br>

Anyone had the same problem? Any ideas how to deal with it? Thanks.</p>

<p>First, "EF-S" lenses are not supposed to compare with the quality of "L" lenses. Second, the price seems right, (provided the lens condition is good). Yes, this is a walk-around lens, but I often miss some extra focal length. However, that is because I am usually too lazy to change to my 100-400mmm white monster I am carrying (or not carrying, because of its weight!) in my bag. I would recommend that you buy the glass, particularly if you plan to upgrade to full frame. One word of caution: Beware of the "pin cushion" distortion at the ends of the frame. (I have not been able to correct this one on Canon's DPP, apparently due to my lack of familiarity with the porgram...). Appart from this con it's a great lens.</p>

<p>I too own a 5D2 and can report that: a) Occasionally I get underexposed images but usually it is my fault because I have fiddled with the EC dial b) Light conditions fooled the camera meter. When none of these occur, exposure is normal. One thing you can do to check camera meter is use an external spot light meter (borrow if you don't own one) and with camera in spot metering mode compare readings. Caution: The display on the camera back has auto brightness adjustment, based on ambient light; this may fool your eye as regards exposure, if you are judging exposure from the camera display brightness.</p>

<p>Thank you for your response. I will check the proposed software.</p>

<p>I own an EOS 5D MK II (also a Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ18) and some times I make the mistake of using it in protrait mode for shoooting movies (gradually I am learning to avoid it though). When playing back these files, I cannot rotate the images by 90 degrees, as would normally do with stills. Is there a way to rotate movies and save the file in this way, so I can store it on a DVD or other media?</p>

<p>I know that FB is very popular, but my personal view about it is negative. Apart from the "political" reasons involved, I think it is a complicated site that does not always make sense. Example: You see a photo of a person and you want to know more about the person. You click on the photo expecting to get an enlargement or profile of the person or both. Instead of this you get a page packed with a list of "friends" you are not interested in, sponsor banners, quotes of what people you don't know (or care to know) wrote and a lot of other silly stuff that you have no interest in. I wonder whether any other visitors share my views or I am alone at that.</p>

<p>Dan, thanks for the extra information. No offense taken from John's remark; I often feel too lazy to either change lens or even to carry all the glass I have, when I am out shooting. Very often I only carry one lens, the one that seems more suitable (often the heavy 100-400 and a Manfrotto tripod if the situation warrants its use).<br />Christine, you don't seem to be very much of an amateur photographer! Your photos are stunning and, from visiting your web site, I understand that you sell your photos! What else makes a professional? :-)<br>

With regard to religion, I am no part of the religious crowd. Photography is valuable to me. Religion is not. (No offense intended for the religious of you).</p>

<p>John Crowe, I think you are right. Besides, I also own a 50mm/1.4 and 100mm/2.8 Macro, so I am well equipped with primes. The 70-200/4L sounds inviting. Perhaps my next purchase. I was considerin the 80-200/2.8 but that seems too cumbersome to carry arround. I already have the 100-400 L IS, so most of my tele lens need are adequately covered. I think I should just get rid of some laziness though!</p>

<p>Thank you all for the enlightening answers. In fact I never knew that Canon's DPP provides such correction possibilities. I have had it installed for several years, but the only use I've put it to is batch conversion of my Raw images downloaded from the memory card, into Tiff. I will print the user's manual and find information on image correction. I was surprised that I never got to know about this possibility. If I don't have a hard copy of a manual I tend to neglect reading it.<br>

I also own the fine TS24 lens, which I have used, occasionally, for perspective correction and also the EF 20mm/2.8, another fine lens for wide angles. Perhaps I should not use so much the 24-105 for wide angles, but it is so handy!</p>

<p>I own an EF 24-105 L IS and while I am very happy with its performance when shooting portraits or landscapes, I am deeply disappointed when I shoot buildings or any other stuctures involving straight vertical or horizontal lines. The reason is well known: the lens creates pin-cushion lines out of straight such. I really wonder why this lens enjoys such high regard, when the distrotion it introduces is so terribly visible. My question: Is there another quality lens, of similar focal length range, that does not have the disadvantage in question? IS at this focal range is not all that important.</p>

<p>It is my impression that your problem is the capacity of the inverter and/or the 12V source. Once these two can supply sufficient amperage to charge your camera batteries for as long as your work requires you would not have a problem. Of course there is some energy loss in the inverter but messing with plugs and voltages is rather risky for your camera batteries. My suggestion: try to calculate of the total current (both DC and AC) you need and then find the suitable match of 12V batteries/inverter for your requirements.</p>

<p>Back in the days of film photography I used (and still own) a Mamiya BR67 that produces 6X7 cm pics on 120 or 220 film. I have used it very little and on rare occasions. The scans cost me a fortune and the size of photos I made did not warrant the use of such high resolution film images. I am happy with EOS 5D although I am planning to upgrade to Mark II for a bit better resolution and camera features. 4X5 is used by professionals who really need the better resolution it offers. Unless your photos end up in billboards and other large size prints, stick what what you have.</p>

<p>As regards jewel cases, Avery has a program that allows you to design and print all you want on forms intended to fit a jewel case. You can even have text on the edges. I remember it is very cheap (~5 Euros) and even comes bundled with the respective Avery forms.</p>

<p>It looks fine to me too. Could it be that you cropped out the faulty part of the picture?</p>

<p>>Jeff Lear: Yes, mine is PS7. Will try your advise on my office PC tomorrow but what you are suggesting doen't ring a bell... Thanks anyway.<br>

>Jen Lambert: "f" does change the background size and the canvas color appears. In my home PC it is black but I guess it will be the default grey at the office.</p>

<p>Although I have been using Photoshop for more than a decade, I consider myself as beginner. About a year ago I changed the background color which appears if you reduce the size of an image but leave the background size unchanged. (I really don't know how this area is called). I do not remember how I did it but I did it. It was grey and is now pitch black. When I tried to do the same in my office PC, I could not remember what I did, no matter how much I tried. It seems that ingenious flashes come only once! Does anyone know how this is done? Photoshop "Help" did not help at all (or I didn't know what to look for).</p>

<p>Thanks for all the information Nikolai. I will try to get lighgtroom and give it a try.</p>

<p>Thanks to all for the replies. In fact I am only using TIFF files (unless I publish on the web). I have also tried Raw Therepee and the results are the same. I wonder whether they both apply preset but in the instructions I read nothing to this effect. Lightroom is part o PS new version, I suppose and capture on a bit pricey. Most of the time I mass convert using Canon EOS bundled software, but I thought I should see what more I can do by doing individual conversion...</p>

<p>I am a beginner in RAW provessing and have biginner's questions:<br>

I am using SILKYPIX software and I get both options: JPG and RAW. However, no matter which one I open they look the same. I was under the impression that a raw image is dark and looks weird until you start processing it to your taste. In my case the image looks exactly what it would look like if I let my camera software convert it into JPEG or TIFF and then use Photoshop or other software to make adjustments. Obviously I am missing something or I do something wrong. But what?</p>

Shot about 15 years ago on EOS5 and sensia film.<div></div>

<p>Just checked for you and quickly found this: <a href="http://www.atlantiv.com/category-36/CANONEF2470MM.html?language=DE&currency=EUR">http://www.atlantiv.com/category-36/CANONEF2470MM.html?language=DE&currency=EUR</a> Availability: They have 3 pieces on stock.</p>

<p>I usually order from German e-stores which I have found to be quite reliable and often better priced than stores in Greece where I live. What I do is Google the model of the equipment I wish to purchase together with the word: "Preisvergleich" which means "price comparison". I get a list of stores and respective prices (several sites do that and sometimes list different stores). There you can also find availability information as well as comments about the e-store by customers. This procedure saves you the time to visit stores and provides a global view of what is available and at what price. I have purchased from several stores and I am happy with all.</p>