leif pigott

Hi,

I have a canon 24-85mm usm lens and put a Toko 67mm skylight filter on this lens to protect it....

 

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It turns out the filter was hitting the front element of the lens and has left a circle about 3mm across with scratchs.

 

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Has this happened to anyone else?

 

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Is like canon have stuffed up with the clearances ?

 

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At the time I didn't think to check if the filter was touching the front of the lens element.

 

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Rgds Leif

Hi,

Have you thought about the 300mm f4 L. It is a great lense and works

well with the 1.4xTC. I find that it takes really great photos and is

not too big. If you are interested in birds the 300 is as short as I

would go. Any zoom is not going to take the great photos this lens

can produce. The IS 300 f4 is a bit more but might be worth it.

 

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The 100mm f2.8 Macro is a large lens (for 100mm macro) but it is as

good as you could ever want. I brought mine when they were first

released and often carry it rather that my 70-200 f2.8L.

 

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The wider end of things is interesting you could go for a zoom e.g.,

20-35mm. This is ment to be ok stopped down, but I don't own one. Or

go for a 24-85 ok but nothing wonderful (i have one). Or look at a

couple of primes eg a 24mm f2.8 and a 50mm f1.8 both of mine are

great.

 

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I would go with 300 f4L (IS if I had the $), 1.4xTC, 100 macro, 24mm

and 50mm. New this will set you back about $2160 new. You could

save lots by getting a second hand 300.

 

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Or 100-400IS L and a 20-35(slow one) and a 100mm macro- about $2500

but might not give you the image quality.

 

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Good luck Leif

Hi,

It is an interesting choice. I have the 70-200 f2.8, and it is a lense that I use a lot- yes it is heavy! But it is very sharp!

I go from 20mm to 300mm and also suffer from several lenses around 100mm. If I was in your position I would look hard at the 70-200 f2.8 and selling the 100-300 and buying a 1.4x TC.

I ended up with my 70-200 almost by accident, there was a 1.4 and 2x Tc with the lens, I wanted the TCs! Figuring I could on sell the lens. Well 2 years on it is my most used lens.

There are times when you need the 2.8, and nothing else will work. I'm not sure why but it takes lots of landscapes, I think it comes down to cropping using the zoom.

The 400 f5.6 will work well with the 70-200- most of us mortals can't find the $ for the 500 or 600 mm lenses, even if I lust after one and could make it pay (just).

Hope this helps

Leif

Hi,

Just looked at some shots (3 rolls of each taken within 1 hour 3-4pm getting dark at 9:30pm)using MS100/1000 and proviaF100. Both exposed at 320asa and pushed 2 stops. Using EOS 50 with 300mm f4. The shots are of white herins feeding there young on New Zealand bush by a stream- Large white birds with lots of different greens.

 

The clear winner is ProviaF. The greens are much cleaner with better, the MS seams to have gone slightly yellow (all processed at once). There is also more contrast in the ProviaF.

 

If I saw the MS by itself I would look ok but side by side it doesn't cut it.

 

Hope this help

Leif

Hi,

I wouldn't say the 105 is a mistake. Where else can you get an f2.4

lens for 6x7. I would look at getting a 55mm lens next, I have the

old f3.5 lens, big but I love the chromes.

There has been lots of debate about the best lens- they all depend on

what you are using it for! I have bought the older lenses and I'm

happy with them, they suit my style and provide me with a nice

income. I would rather have a 55 and a 200 rather than just one. No

matter how good the 55mm, and old 200 will still take better photos

when you need a long focal length.

What I'm getting at is if you can try before you buy don't right the

older lenses off and not being "the best".

Hi,

I'll put in my 2 cents- New Zealand. Yes it will be winter and the it will not be warm but there are some great shots to be had. Temperture range, highs of 10-18 degrees C, lows down to 5 to -5 degrees C. With the US dollar being so high it will be cheap. 39 cents US buys 1 NZ dollar. I would also plan a stop over in a pacific Island - the humpback whales are in Tonga by July.

 

If you want large mammals don't come to NZ, usless you want sheep and cows!

 

HOpe this helps

Leif

Hi,

I would keep the 35mm system, if you love birds keep taking the pictures. I would also get a 24 or 20mm lens.

 

You can carry both systems at once - you don't need to go overboard on MF gear to start with.

 

Learning to use a MF/LF system doesn't happen overnight. Why not go with a fuji 6x9 range finder? Great lens and it will teach you how to meter. It is completely manual, pick one up second hand then start to understand the joys of manual cameras. If you don't like it sell it with minimal loss. This camera is light enought to carry with your 35mm gear.

 

I brought a Mamyia 23 a few years ago and learn lots- yes I have sold several of the shots. It was big heavy and suffered from the odd light leak -if I stuffed up it let me know about it. It improved my 35mm work no end. I replaced it with a fuji gs645w and a Pentax 67, each tool has its own place.

 

After you fall in love with large tranies on the light box you can make the MF/LF choice.

Hope this helps

Leif

When playing around in small boat I have found the EWA housings ok- basicly plastic bags that will keep the water out even if you go for a swim. They are not cheap but they are good insurance. It means that you can have the camera ready most of the time- although changing lenses will not be simple!

Has anyone got any experence taking underwater whale shots?

 

I've just spent a week taking humpback whale shots in Tonga -

Topside. Next time I go back I would like to take an underwater

camera. Snokelling does not present any problem, a miss spent youth

spear fishing and playing underwater hockey has seen to that.

 

From what I have learned so far a second hand Nikonos V with a 15mm

lens might be the way to go.

 

A flash seams out of the question and there is a bit of light near

the surface with the visibility being 30-70m underwater. Anyway no

flash is going to illumiate a 60 foot whale.

 

I should note that it is legal to swim with the whales here and the

whales do swim up to people on snokell

 

Thanks

Leif

Hi,

I need the 600mm at times for taking bird photos. In New Zealand the

birds are often easy to approach and I can often get away with the

300 mm or 300 and a 1.4TC. Unfortunately there are times when 600mm

is needed. I�m currently using a EOS50 (Elan II) 300mm f4L and 2X

canon TC. I can�t find the answers searching thought the archives

 

 

My questions are:

 

1 How well does the EOS 3 focus with a 300 f4L and 2xTC ? I already

know it produces the optical quality I can live with also I know it

will AF, but is it usable?

 

2 Will an EOS 3 focus faster than an EOS 50 in low light using the

300mm F4L. Low light is 30th of a second at f4 (320 asa flim). MY

eos 50 is seaching and often not locking on to the subject.

 

Thanks Leif

Thanks for all the help.

I don't know which model the camera is. I suspect it is an early

model, the lenses are 1950's so I guess the body is too. The body is

grey and bellows are black. The someone has repainted the body at

some stage.

The bellows look ok but I need to check this futher.

The ground glass might be a bit of a problem, I live in New Zealand

so I might have to make one myself, but even if I have mail order one

from the US it looks ok.

Thanks again

Leif

Hello,

I've been looking at getting a 4x5 field camera for a while. I have a Pentax67 but want movements and a bigger negative for stock work.

 

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I have been offered a Linhoff Technica 4x5 flatbed with a 150mm f5.6 Symmar and a 240mm f5.5 Tele xenar (both Linhoff Shnider lenses). Both are clean and the shutters are working.

 

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Unfortunalty it has a broken ground glass and only comes with one lens board.

 

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The way I see thing are that the glass is replaceable, athough I have no idea at the cost.

I would need another lens board, and some film holders/polaroid back. I have all the other things, except a dark cloth.

 

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They only want $350 US for the camera as is, and the lenses.

 

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Would this be a good camera to learn on and is someone trying to rip me off.

 

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Thanks for your help

Leif

After two weeks and 50 rolls of film latter�

 

Not many photos suffered from camera shake, those where often due to the ground being a bit squeegee.

 

Longer lenses used where canon 300 f4 L and 70-200 f2.8 on EOS50 and a pentax 67 with 55, 75 and 135mm lenses. Mirror lock was used for almost every shot with the P67, but the shutter shake is still an issue.

 

Positives

 

Weight, it is still light and easy to carry hence it got used a lot

 

Leg locks are very quick to operate and lock

 

I love the three position legs

 

Negatives

 

Not quite tall enough for panning shots of birds, I was taking Royal

 

Albatross photos. They where gliding around the headland but I had to be almost on my knees when they came overhead.

 

It is a bit light is strong winds, 20 to 40 knots or 40 to 80 km/hour winds. I guess this would have been a problem with anything not bolted to bedrock.

 

Going low is pain, mind you with any �normal� tripod it is a problem

 

I had to use the second (wider) leg setting to increase the stability with my Pentax

 

Would I buy it again?

This is the hard one, the other choices in New Zealand are the gitzo and it is about 40% more expensive or staying with aluminium tripods at about 1/3 the cost.

 

Weight is important, the lightweight makes it easy to carry and I love the leg locks

 

If I didn�t need to fly with it or carry it large distances I wouldn�t bother. Airlines are getting very strict on the weight they allow between 20-30kg luggage and 5kg for carry-on (even if my minitekker is 12kg, it looks too small to be noticed � yet). By the time I get my camera gear and camping gear I having weight problems.

 

If I had the spare cash I would buy it again, but only just.

 

Design changes-

Increase the spread of the legs by a few degrees.

Increase the length of each leg section by 5cm.

 

Rgds

Leif

Hi John, I will make the assumption that you are taking about $2000 Aus. dollars and I know your lens prices are nowhere near as cheap as the US or even New Zealand( where I'm from ). Hence the sigma lenses.

 

I brought a new sigma 400 f5.6 macro about 18 months ago, I have since sold it and replaced it with a 300mm f4 L.- too long for working in the bush and most the birds in NZ (and I found this in Tasmania 2 years ago) are not as difficult to approach as in North America (Canada last year)also the birds are often bigger.

 

If you can afford a 300 f2.8 or a 600mm f4, great. If not you will get good results with the sigma 400 f5.6 apo macro. I would also invest in a good tripod and a sigma l.4 TC. You might lose auto focus. Try not to get sucked into the world where speed is everything, you can always use 800 asa print film :-)

 

Second hand is nice but I suspect that you will not have access to a large array of gear. Look at the cost of importing a lens from the US and make sure you and the duty/sales tax.

Hi,

I just brought a the 441 last week and spent the weekend playing. These are my first impressions.

I was previously using a Manfo.144 that weighs in at about 2.6Kg that only has one leg position. Both tripods were using a Manfotto large ball head, with large hex plate. Cameras- EOS50 with a 300mm F4 L and 380ex with better beamer, or a Pentax 67 with a 75mm lens.

 

Good points

The legs have three sections with nice locks

 

The tripod with head is tall enough for me to use ( I�m 180cm or about 5 11).

 

The three position legs are nice

 

The tripod feels dead, it doesn't seam to ring or carry vibrations nearly as much as the heavier aluminium tripod

 

I like the way you can remove the centre column and place it parallel to the ground allowing for good macro work on the forest floor

 

It is light, it feels much better with a camera on over my shoulder than the 144.

 

Possible issues

 

There are three angles for each leg and the first position (i.e. tallest), is too narrow resulting in the tripod not being very stable, not really stable enough for the P67. when the legs are set to the next position the tripod feels very solid.

 

Cost, it cost me about 900 New Zealand dollars (about $430 US), not cheap but much less that the others on offer

 

I�ll write a more complete review after a two-week holiday at the end of February- taken nature photos in the lower half on the South Is of NZ.

 

Leif

Hi, Congrads on a great little camera. I wouldn't be without mine.

I have a manual so here is the answer to your lens question:

EBC Fujinon W 45 f 5.6, 5 components, 6 elements.

76 degree field of view

Shutter Copal No. 00

 

Focusing trick, keep a piece of string with the camera, that is 3m long with knots at 1m 1.5m 2m. I can help if you want to do moderat closeups.

Leif

Thank you all for your replies. I realise that there is no right or wrong answer and that everything is a compromise in some way.

 

My Mamiya Press has been a real learning experience and is similar to a view camera in many ways, glass back, roll film packs, bellows etc.

 

My 65mm lens is f6.3 and thus dull on the ground glass on a bright day - take it into a humid damp forest and put your jacket over your head to see the glass back and my glasses mist up every time. Thus I resort to the 90mm and the range finder (not very accurate). Even then the resolution and contrast are not great, nothing like the Fuji lens on my GS645w.

 

My Fuji range finder is great but I find it too limiting when I want to use a polarising filter and I need to be able to change lenses. A couple of fuji 6x9�s with the 65mm and 90 mm lenses were an option considered but they lack control.

 

4x5 trannies are very expensive here, for every two processed 4x5�s I can get an entire roll of 120 with processing. While I get the exposure right every other time I just can�t afford the running costs of 4x5, a Polaroid back might fix this. I usual get 2-5 images I�m happy with out of a roll of 8 6x9�s, depending on how much I concentrate, nothing spoils an image more than forgetting to remove the dark slide :-).

 

I�m going to stick with my press for a few more months and see if a really good P67 or RZ comes up with at least two of the lenses I want. Although I am tending to a P67 with Mirror lockup.

 

Thanks again and if anyone wants any info on New Zealand email me.

I use my MF gear for landscape and for plant/ flower shots I'm

looking at a 6x7 camera. I have a good range of 35mm gear, that will

not be sold.

 

I have owned a Mamyia 330f, Yashica Mat but found they didn�t suit

me. I now have a Mamyia Press ,a Fuji gs645w and an old Mamyia M645.

 

I�m looking at getting a 6x7 format camera (second hand) with the

major contenders being RB67 or RZ67 or a Pentax 67. The Mamyia 7 is

outside my price range and simply not available second hand. My

basic understanding is that the P67 would be better out in the field

but the Mamyia�s have slightly better optics and are cheaper second

hand in New Zealand. The new camera will be replacing a Mamyia press

and the M645, it can�t replace the Fuji 645 for things like mountain

biking!

 

Almost all the work is outdoor with tripod. It will be carrying it

several km and the gear will get damp in the rain. I don�t have an

unlimited budget but I�m willing to spend what it takes to get a good

6x7 outfit.

 

I�m looking at three lenses in 35mm speak a 28, 50 and 100mm. I will

be using transparency film exclusively hence I need an accurate

shutter. TTL metering is useful but not critical

 

Pricing the RB67 is about half the price of the P67 with the RZ67

being about 50% more. The Mamyia gear is more available than the P67.

 

Can anyone add some more useful information I�ve spent considerable

time going through the archives and I�m not getting anywhere.

 

Thanks for any help. Leif Pigott

Hi I have a fuji GS645W. You could find this MF camera very limiting compared to you EOS gear, particully if you like using filters. Polarisers are ok on a good day but split-ND forget it. Long exposures greater than 1 sec are not simple and you will be using it sideways a lot.

On the plus side, the lens is great. It does have a built-in meter that is accurate.

I have some great shots from this camera but if I wanted to take just landscapes it wouldn't be my first choice. If you want wide shots think about splicing several shots together digitally.

Hi,

If I was looking for a lens to carry it would be the 300/4 (with IS, if I could afford it) and invest in a canon tc 1.4. I still have a 75-300 which is useful but my 300/4 is great. Even the 300/4 is a very different lens to the small zoom, after a month in Canada carrying around a 400/f5.6 I can see reasons to stick to the 300 and TC.

 

It should be noted that the 300/4 without IS are rather cheap at present. One could be brought second hand and prove to be a good staging point, ie if you do find you need ( note need not want) a larger lens it could be resold without significant loss.

 

Have you had a look at the other lenses you mentioned? If you have to carry them you will know all about it by the end of a long day.

I would look at forking out the hire for a couple of days before you think about anything bigger, and just see if you like the weight.

Thanks for the responces.

I have been using both a 6x7 back and 6x9 back and the results are the same, not quite right.

I have been using the ground glass back for focusing (sometimes) but most of my landscape stuff it taken using f16 or f22 hyperfocusing so that everything should be well in focus. That is if I'm using f16 I will be using the f11 or f8 depth of field marks on the lens. I got into this habbit with my Fuji range finder (having to guess the distance).

I guess this could be my downfall.

Thanks Leif

Hi,

I recently purchased a Mamiya Press, with 65,90 and 150 mm lenses.

 

I don�t seam to be able to get really sharp images out of the camera,

about 15 rolls of flim have been taken. I�m using a tripod (4 Kg) and

cable release, with velvia film. I think my technique is ok.

 

When looking through a 10x loupe they seam to be somewhat blurry,

when compared to photos taken with a Fuji rangefinder (GS645W), Canon

35mm (EOS), Yashicamat, and Mamiya 330f.

 

How good are the lenses when compared to more recent optics, and I am

I asking too much of the camera?

Does anyone have any idea on what might be causing the problem?

 

I like the large format but if I don�t sort out the problem I�m going

get rid of the camera and get a P67.

Thanks for any help

Leif Pigott

Sounds like a great chance to get some wonderful photos. I'll add my two cents worth.

1/ Get a flash extender, I have used a "Better Beamer" with a sigma 400mm f5.6 to great effect in the NZ forrest. This should give you enough light, even if the background will be dark. Marketed by Arthur Morris.

2/ Take a few rolls of fuji ms100/1000, and rate it to 600 asa- any higher and I don't like the results

3/ If film price is an issue look at consumer slide film, Sensia II and Kodak EBX-100. I think they are versions of Astia and 100VS.

4/ Take some fast print film Fuji NGHII 800.

Above all else you should practice before you go, and work out how to use the flash. Hope this helps Leif.

Hi, I have just gone through the same debate. I wanted 6x7 or larger for landscape work, while still using roll film. I was going to get a Pentax 67 but I couldn't justify the $1000us ($2000 NZ) for a camera and one lens.

I ended up with a Maniya Press with 65mm, 90mm and 150mm. Ground glass back, 6x9 back and 6x7 back and other odds and ends for $500 US.

After taking 10 rolls last weekend I'm happy with some great images, you need to think about the following;

 

1/ It takes more time to compose than a modern camera

2/ You have to remeber the dark slide ....

3/ Lenses are ok but not the same standard as my fuji GS645W

4/ The outfit only just fits in a Novapro 5 bag

5/ It is possible to use grad filters just with the ground glass back

6/ Macro work is possible

7/ Limited camera movements are possible

8/ If you get the Unversal you can have a polaroid back (and use RB 6x7 backs?)

 

If you can live with just a single lens I would go for the Fuji, but for a simple robust cheap system the mamiya is hard to beat.

 

Hope this helps

Leif

Just a note that you can extend the legs on the Manfrotto tripods simply by replacing the tubing with longer sections. Moving all the fittings across takes 10 minutes with some simple tools. I'm still looking at replacing a set of Al tubes with carbon fiber (graphite), although most of the weight in the Manfrotto tripods is in the fittings.

Rgds Leif Pigott