jay_poel

<p>Instagram is rewording the new Terms of Use to make it clear that they are NOT selling your photos and clearing up any confusion.</p>

<p><a href="http://blog.instagram.com/post/38252135408/thank-you-and-were-listening">http://blog.instagram.com/post/38252135408/thank-you-and-were-listening</a></p>

<p>Mike, I'm sure you know but the 24-70 f/2.8 should be sharp .... really sharp. My copy is and most of what I've read says the same. I'm intersted in what you come up with. </p>

<p>If it makes you feel any better Peter, I still get a smile when I see your photo as a meme but it is sad that once it's gone viral there is not much you can do about it. :(</p>

<p>I haven't printed any of mine (8MP on Samsung Infuse 4G) but I can tell you that good lighting makes a big difference - by good I mean lots of it - LOL.</p>

<p>1) 3<br>

2) 4<br>

3) 4<br>

4) 5<br>

5) 4</p>

<p>Ah, that makes sense Ariel, but I use mine for fill not for lighting up dark scenes LOL. But that's the way they have the firmware programmed.<br>

I checked my D90 with my SB-600 connected - same thing with the LCD - lights up with d9: set to OFF. </p>

<p>Yoram - in the english manual - page 183 has what you are looking for. (You can download it from Nikon here: <a href="http://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/16087/~/user's-manual---d90---guide-to-digital-photography">http://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/16087/~/user's-manual---d90---guide-to-digital-photography</a> )<br>

Custom Setting d9: LCD Illumination - set it to Off and it will only illuminate when the power switch is moved to the lightbulb position.</p>

 

<p>I was thinking that was pretty impressive too Simon but a Google search for "70-200mm vrII 1/10s sharp" gets a lot of reviews that state the same thing. The VRII is pretty impressive.</p>

<p>Very interesting. I'd love to know what the cause is. Maybe a call to Nikon?</p>

<p>Alan that is a pretty bold statement "Not to worry". </p>

<p>The OP CLEARLY states "I think may have a problem with the type of flash is uses, but almost every photo I take of my son brings out a yellow glow in his eye, Iv not seen this in anyone else Iv taken photos of" in the original post. It ONLY happens with her son. I know as a parent of two young children, I would definitely follow up with a specialist just to be safe.</p>

<p>I truely hope it is nothing but Karen, please keep us informed of what the doctor finds.</p>

<p>The difference is in the card - the Extreme Pro series is designed to read and write quickly in a UHS-1 device (the D5000 is not a UHS-1 device). The Extreme Series is designed for fast read/writes in a SDHC (Version 2.0 of the SD specification) device. </p>

<p>Now, if you put both those cards in a D7000 or a UHS-1 card reader - I would expect that the Extreme Pro would be noticably quicker. The D7000 was the first camera to use the UHS-1 bus interface.</p>

<p>If you look at the tech specs you will clearly see:</p>

<blockquote>

<p><strong>Lens Focal Length </strong>4.3-180mm (angle of view equivalent to that of 24-1000 mm lens in 35mm [135] format)</p>

</blockquote>

I'd say since it is a P&S that Nikon is posting the specs for the non-photographically inclined people. With my D90 and my 70-200mm I would have to do the math in my head (70x1.5 to 200x1.5) to get the 35mm equivalant.

I agree with Mr. Sperry though - "I just want to think if I like what I'm seeing through the viewfinder" because that's all that really matters.

<p>I do the same Shun. I try to remember to switch it off, set release mode to Continuous Low and change my mode dial back to 'A' after I remove the quickplate from the camera.</p>

<p>Ooops, Rene is right ViewNX 2 is what I should have posted - <a href="http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Imaging-Software/NVNX2/ViewNX-2.html">http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Imaging-Software/NVNX2/ViewNX-2.html</a></p>

<p>Time to upgrade to Capture NX2 or get View NX and convert the RAW files to JPEG or TIFF to edit. View NX is free and should be on the CD that came with your camera. You can download it from Nikon:<br>

<a href="http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Imaging-Software/NVNX/ViewNX.html">http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Imaging-Software/NVNX/ViewNX.html</a></p>

<p>f stops - 1, 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, 32, 64 | The smaller the number, the larger the aperture. </p>

<p>shutter speed - 1/8000, 1/4000, 1/2000, 1/1000, 1/500, 1/250, 1/125, 1/60, 1/30, 1/15, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 1s ... | The smaller the number, the shorter amount of time the shutter is open.</p>

<p>ISO 50, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, 12800, 25600 .... | The lower the number, the less sensitive the sensor is to light.</p>

<p>f stops have to be memorized but shutter speed and ISO you can multiple or divide by 2 for a full stop.</p>

<p>I hope this helps. I know I found it easier to understand when I saw something similar.</p>

<p>I know you got an answer but I'll add that I too notice the VR spooling up on both my 70-300mm VR and my 70-200mm f/2.8 VR lenses.</p>

<p>Josh should delete the OP and this thread. Blantantly stolen as Micheal noted and John linked to.</p>

<p>I would only trust a Nikon battery in my $1000 camera. I've tried aftermarket batteries for other things (Wii and XBox remotes come to mind) and have been disappointed.</p>

<p>I'm am still using the original battery and an extra I purchased to go in the MB-D80 grip when I bought my D80 in 2007. I bought a D90 in 2009 and gave my dad the D80 and the new battery that came with the D90. Both original batteries have worked flawlessly and get 600+ shots easily with a little chimping.</p>

<p>@Bruce Brown - no Bruce, you shouldn't run lithium batteries down before charging. Charge them when they hit 20-30% or so if you can. If you need to run it down then do so. </p>

<p>Did this fix your problem?</p>

<p>Did some Google searching for you and turned up this thread:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/groups/nikondigitallearningcenter/discuss/72157608774436325/">http://www.flickr.com/groups/nikondigitallearningcenter/discuss/72157608774436325/</a></p>

<p>Sounds like the middle pin in the battery compartment of your D90 is not lined up properly. There are some pictures that should help show you. Seems to be a problem for a few people. Mine worked fine - I have the same setup MB-D80 on a D90.</p>

<p>I've got and love the Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8 and the 70-200mm f/2.8 VR for my D90, just missing a wide angle but I think I might just go with the 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 DX for the price - the 14-24 f/2.8 is a little steep for the little use I think I would get out of it.</p>

<p>Josh, Ken already posted what i was going to add but I'll reitterate, I have a Samsung Galaxy S Infuse and there are quite a number of user settings. Here's a list if you are interested:</p>

<ul>

<li>Shooting mode - single shot, smile shot, continuous, panorama, add me, action shot, cartoon</li>

<li><strong>Flash - Off, On, Auto</strong></li>

<li><strong>Exposure Value (compensation) - +/- 2.0</strong></li>

<li>Focus Mode - Auto, Macro, Face Detection</li>

<li>Scene mode - None, Portrait, Landscape, Night, Sports, Party/Indoor, Beach/Snow, Sunset, Dawn, Fall Colour, Firework, Text, Candle Light, Backlight</li>

<li>Timer - Off, 2 sec, 5 sec, 10 sec</li>

<li>Resoution - 8M, W7.8M, 5M, W4M, 3.2M, W2.4M, 2M, W1.5M, 0.3M, W.4M</li>

<li><strong>White Balance - Auto, Daylight, Cloudy, Incandescent, Fluorescent</strong></li>

<li>Effects - Normal, Negative, Black and White, Sepia</li>

<li><strong>ISO - Auto, 100, 200, 400, 800</strong></li>

<li><strong>Metering - Centre-weighted, Spot, Matrix</strong></li>

<li>Anti-Shake - On or Off</li>

<li>Auto Contrast - On or Off</li>

<li>Blick Detection - On or Off</li>

<li>Image Quality - Superfine, Fine, Normal</li>

<li>Adjust - sliders for Contrast, Saturation and Sharpness in whole steps +/- 2</li>

</ul>

<p>You can also display guidelines, and turn on or off review and GPS tagging.</p>

<p>In single shot mode it takes approximately 2.25 seconds between shots. Burst mode automatically drop the resolution to 0.3M (640x480) and takes 9 shots in 3 seconds with a few more seconds to write to the memory card.</p>

<p>The only problem? The photos are not even close to as nice as I get with my D90.</p>

 

<p>The Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8 is very sharp wide open - it's my favorite lens but it is pretty large and heavy.</p>

<p>I agree with Mark, better lenses won't help you take better photos for the most part (maybe a little sharper and a little better colour rednition). If you are doing landscape, get a good tripod if you don't have one and practice, practice, practice.</p>

<p>What lenses do you currently have?</p>

 

<p>Andrew was getting to the idea I had.</p>

<p>Depending on the camera, Auto mode will be adjusting a lot more than just shutter speed, aperture and ISO. White balance, sharpening, contrast, saturation, active D-Lighting (Nikon), etc. can all have an effect on the final output.</p>

<p>The difference might not be the exposure but instead the processing.</p>