brad_r2

<p>Hi.</p>

<p>I recently bought a Mamiya 645 1000s. Here's my issue...<br /> I load a roll of film in, wind to the "1". I can fire off one shot. I start winding to shoot again and it'll wind a little bit and then it feels like the winder loses grip with a gear and just spins, so I can't fire off any other shots.<br /> If I open the back to see what's happening while the film back is loaded, it winds perfectly fine, no issues. If i leave the camera on Multi and shoot. Obviously it doesn't wind, but it will fire correctly. Once I close the back up, it'll wind maybe 1/4 a turn or less and then it'll just spin.<br /> The gears look fine to me, no missing teeth or anything. I was told on purchase that it was working and just CLA'ed.<br /> Any suggestions? Am i missing something or is there actually a problem here. I may just have to return it, but the seller (ebay) has a ton of ratings near perfect, so I thought I'd be fine.</p>

<p>Thanks in advance!</p>

<p>Hi.</p>

<p>I'm taking a trip that includes southern France, Venice, and Paris. I own a D700, was planning on taking my 70-200 2.8 and 24-70 2.8. I also own a 50mm 1.8, but originally wasn't planning on bringing that as well.<br>

I have two questions. Do you think the 50mm is necessary? Only reason I can think of is for say, dark churches, etc to have the lower light capability, although the D700 does get decent high ISO.<br>

More importantly I'm looking for a good bag I can use for my equipment. I have a small sling bag that works nicely, but over time carrying it bring shoulder pain. Are there slings that people have used that are more comfortable, lugging around that equipment for a full day? Im looking into backpacks, but I want something that I can access my camera quickly, but also deter thieves as everything I'm reading seems to keep me weary of that. <br>

Please share your experiences! Is it ok to just have my camera on my blackrapid strap on my person and only use the bag if I need to switch lenses? Again worried about it getting stolen, etc. </p>

<p>Thanks in advance for your help!</p>

<p>Thanks for the advice so far!<br>

<br />I currently shoot with a D700. I always shoot in RAW, but want to minimize my actual editing time if possible. For performances, it's a little more complicated than that. I work for a company that does theater education residencies in schools. They never use any theatrical lighting. It usually whatever general lights the auditorium has so there's no specific theatrical effect they're trying to give. <br /><br />The "performances" are usually 5-10 minutes long only and I am also usually there for a rehearsal before that. I do have them stop and do poses if there are any of note, but with younger kids you won't get the same expressions as during the performance. All the kids are no older than 8th grade, usually 9-13 year olds.<br>

The rehearsals are literally right before the performance and the blocks of time are set in the day since it's during actual school days. <br>

Not sure if that changes any of your suggestions, based on cost and time it may a lost cause so to speak. </p>

 

<p>Hi,<br>

I currently shoot lots of school events, theater performances. They are almost always in auditoriums which have terrible downlight or just generic lighting. Usually get shadows under the eyes sorta thing. I have all 2.8 lenses so i can usually get a pretty good product. My question is I'm looking to get some lights. I can't use a flash so I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions for any hot lights, led lights or anything that could be set up fairly easily/quickly but will give a decent amount of light coverage. <br>

Thanks!</p>

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>A couple years ago I bought a Nikon Nikkor AF 80-200mm 2.8 ED Lens on ebay for about $400. It's the old push/pull zoom. The autofocus no longer works up to maybe 120mm or so. Beyond that it works fine. (I own a D700 btw). I'm trying to find a local repair shop that can maybe repair for cheap. But I'm wondering if it's even worth it at this point since I only spent $400 on it? Most of the repairs will cost at least $200 I'm told. <br>

<br>

If anyone has any other suggestions, I"d greatly appreciate it.<br /><br>

<br />Thanks!<br /></p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I have an odd request. I'm getting married in May and looking to build a Boutoniereusing a film lens. I need something small and light. Any suggestions on where I can find one? Looking to spend no more then $20-$30 tops. I'd prefer something broken because I may have to glue or make it unusable in other ways. As a photographer that kind of hurts me to have to do that to a well working lens. Maybe something from a twin lens? I've looked on ebay but it's hard to exactly tell weight and size by pictures. Need to really feel in my hands. I'm in the NYC area and have tried to get to various antique shops but don't have the time to go searching all over the place.</p>

<p>Any ideas are welcome. Thanks!</p>

<p>Yea. For that gig I only have my kit lenses, unfortunately 3.5-5.6 28-80. Obviously it's not a useable photo with the blur, but just wanted to show a super quick example of the conditions, etc.<br>

I recently got my 17-50 2.8 lens which recently has definitely helped. Although I haven't shot in that room yet, which is very dark and painted red! I guess the faster lens would and has been a big leg up on the problem.<br>

My issue with getting fixed faster lenses is I don't have the fluidity of changing the view, which I need to be able to do quickly. At the moment I don't have another body, but do plan on buying one in the future (obviously from this post) I can't get super close to the kids again without interrupting the class and what's happening. Any thoughts on that? Would you suggest I just have 2 bodies, one with a 35mm and another with like 105 or closer?<br>

I don't claim to be a professional, and would appreciate any advice. Thanks!</p>

<p>The problem is I do so different types of photography so having 4 or 5 lenses with me isn't practical. But if you're just referring to the main Theater Education stuff. I'd say yea probably somewhere in the 30mm range and then close like at least 150mm-200mm most of the time. But they're both 2.8 fixed. Are you suggesting getting a fixed length lens that's faster then 2.8?</p>

<p>I don't have a portfolio on this site and only have my other work on my website. Like I said, this is pretty small time for me and it's not my main job.<br>

I don't do any printing, I simply hand over the digital files to the client. But they use them for marketing purposes, flyers, ads, etc. They need to be crisp. They do blow them up to 16x20 or larger from time to time to use as posters.<br>

I'll try and find some examples to post if you think that'll help. With technology changing though, eventually things will run out of date and clients expectations will be higher.<br>

Like I said, it's a tough situation because it's in a classroom, usually with younger kids and it's theater education. So there's games and constant interactivity so using a tripod is out of the question. There's usually not great amounts of light in the room and it doesn't pay to bring tons of lighting with me. A flash is too distracting as I said. So i'm basically stuck with using the fastest lens I can afford and shooting in a low enough ISO that it'll still stay crisp at the higher sizes while still being exposed correctly.<br>

If anyone has suggestions, I am more then happy to listen!</p><div></div>

<p>I have a flash, but the nature of the work is Theatre education for young kids and a flash constantly going off is too disruptive. Otherwise I certainly would.<br>

I usually just switch between my 17-50 for the wider shots and my zoom for the closeups.</p>

<p>I'm not worried about the actuations, just that it's out of date. I feel like the low light in addition to the low MP limits some of my work. Or the work that I could do. I don't feel I could ever get into bigger events with the limits it has. I mean if it's not worth spending $1000 on a used D300 or D7000 then I won't do it. But the upgrades in MP and low light capability might be worth it to get more gigs.</p>

 

<p>Also, any thoughts on what I could get for my D200? Like I said, about 5000 Actuations.</p>

<p>I shoot headshots and lately education classes from time to time. (Lots of kids, terrible lighting in classrooms) I have a Nikon 50mm 1.8, Tamron 17-50mm 2.8, and Nikon 80-200 2.8.<br>

I shoot landscapes for my own purposes as well.</p>

<p>So you recommend I go for a D300? Is there any other Nikon camera you'd recommend instead? D700? Or would the next best thing beyond the 300 be a D3 series?</p>

<p>Hi.</p>

<p>I currently own a D200 with only about 5000 actuations. I get hired for jobs here and there, but it's definitely a part-time thing. Obviously the D200 is outdated with only 10 MP. I'm thinking of maybe upgrading. I'd like something with more MP, better with low light, and durable.<br>

Does anyone recommend getting a used D2X? I know that's outdated now as well, but I imagine it'd be a step up from what I have. I'd go for a D3, but I don't have the money. I'm thinking of spending $1000-$1500 most.<br>

Or should I go lower with like a D300? But I've heard the weather durability on the D200 is better, I could be wrong.</p>

<p>Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!</p>

<p>Thanks for everyone's help! I've already contacted the seller and he's agreed to give me a full refund.</p>

<p>Arg! Ok thanks.<br>

<br />Any ideas what mount this is for?</p>

<p>Hmm. So then why is this mount bigger then my D200 mount? I looked up A16 and it seems like that model is made for Nikons.</p>

<p>My guess is it can only be used for the smaller cameras? D40, etc?</p><div></div>

<p>or Rather A16? Sorry I think that's it.</p>

<p>DA09? I'm not sure if that's it.<br>

Or I guess this is the serial number? 087584?</p>

<p>If not where would I find it?</p>

<p>Hi.</p>

<p>I just bought a lens on ebay. TAMRON 17-50MM F2.8 FOR NIKON AF/ DIGITAL ZOOM EX+CNDTN is how it was listed.<br>

Seller said it was for Nikon and would work on my D200. I just got it and it seems the mount is too big. Is there any way to tell if a. I'm being dumb and am not putting it on right or b. Find out which camera mount this is actually for? There is no box or paperwork, just the lens. <br>

<br />Is there a way to find out from sellers on ebay other then trusting them to give the right description? Or is there a way to mount this lens onto my Nikon?</p>

<p>Thanks!!</p>

<p>I've been taking photographs for 8 or 9 years. I do mostly landscape but I also do portraits/headshots and I just recently got asked to do a wedding reception for a friend. Nothing formal, but nonetheless important.<br>

I have a Nikon D200 with 2 kit lenses 70-300 4-5.6 and a 28-80 3.5. I'm just looking for some recomendations. Obviously I don't have the startup capitol to spend $2000 on a lens if I"m just starting out. I'm thinking becuase I am starting to ramp up my portrait/headshot business a 50mm 1.4 would be best and they're fairly cheap around $100. I'm guessing it could be useful as well for weddings and other events. The 70-300 just isn't cutting it without any kind of good lighting unless I go 1600 ISO or higher which as you know significantly reduces the crispness.<br>

Should I try and go the cheaper route and buy the 50mm and maybe a 105mm 2.8 or something simliar? Would that be workable to start? I do a lot of low light situation for other events and like to shoot in natural light. Any suggestion? I'm definitely going used for these only because of price points. I've already read the photo.net wedding page, just hopeing to get a little more real-life insight from more then one source. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.<br>

One more question, has anyone used lensrentals.com? Do you recommend it? Maybe I should rent one of the more expensive lenses for this event and see if it's worth spending the money on?</p>

<p>Thanks so much!<br>

-Brad</p>

<p>Great suggestions everyone. Thanks for the help! I do think you're right about wanting known named items, but I also think some of the smaller museums a la, not MOMA or some huge conglomorate, would be more interested in a local, city or state related significance.<br>

Thanks again!</p>

<p>Hello,</p>

<p>I recently uncovered about 1000+ photographs that my grandfather took from the 1930's and up. There are a lot of family photos mostly candids. There are also many of my hometown and areas around New Jersey. I believe that many of them have a lot of historical significance. There are even some of the Lincoln Tunnel being built.<br>

I really believe that these photos hold a piece of our history not only from a landmark perspective but also a family one. I've already started cataloging them and getting names/places of the subjects. I would like to contact some city and state museums about putting together a show. I've never had a formal photography show and would like to know the best way to go about it. I don't want to seem completely inexperienced and send someone a random email. Is there a better way to approach it? Do I just go in and try to get a meeting with someone with sample pictures in hand?<br>

I also think that there is a possibility I could get a grant either for arts or historical purposes. How would that play into my application for a show? Do I contact the museum first and mention that I'd be applying for a grant? Or do I try and get the grant first and then contact the museum. I would imagine having the preapproval of a museum show on a grant application would give me a better shot.<br>

<br /> Thoughts? Thanks in advance!</p>

<p>-Brad</p>