roy_rogers

Well it was very similar from f16 to f19, but very bad at f22 at 55mm, Im just looking for general best, its a bit hard to judge in the field but doing these simple tests I can then bracket the aperture around these values I guess

Im not an expert but I thought id just say until someone comes along who knows, you can download "GIMP" which is a good quality free photoshop like program which will allow you to straighten it up a bit and do other editing.

 

http://www.gimp.org/

 

interesting panorama tools and info:

 

http://www.dojoe.net/tutorials/linear-pano/

Ive just done a test with my stock lens on my d50 and found on 20mm the sharpest

images were around f8 to f11 with f11 being the sharpest. So I thought Id do a

test where Im zoomed in at 55mm, so on that test its from f16 to f22 with f19

being sharpest. I am wondering if this seems right or if zooming in makes no

difference? I guess it does surely? The optimal sharpest must change with

different zooms?

ah damn Ive just figured it out now by having a test, if you set in aperture only mode then the bracket only changes the shutter, if its shutter mode it only changes the aperture! Glad I got that sorted! (hope its right!)

 

could someone tell me though, is it best to have it on iso auto or will bracketting then alter some ISOs and each image would have different ISOs?

Hello

 

Im just experimenting with my new d50 and I thought Id try some HDR, thats not

really what Im having an issue with but what Im wondering is when I use auto

bracketing I take -5, -3.5, -1, 0, 1, 3.5, 5 and I use the first three photos on

auto bracketting and I could just use three, but then I read dont change the

aperture but it will change the aperture in auto bracket wont it or how do I

make it only change the shutter speed for auto bracket, or can you do it vice

versa even?

 

(says here

http://backingwinds.blogspot.com/2006/10/how-to-create-professional-hdr-images.html

not to adjust aperture during bracketing)

 

Thanks

im all too familar with the afs annoyance believe me,

 

Ive been looking for the 70-210mm but not many around so far on ebay uk or in any second hand shops.

dunno about that I have a lot of photos of landscapes in magazines taken with normal dslr cameras.

 

Im only on about focusing most of the image using something to give the image depth with an object in it, thats if you can even find something good.

 

Anywho thanks for all the tips everyone.

yes using a tripod

Ive just read that earlier today, incidently I found a good guide from ken rockwell and learnt how to use focus points using left and right which isnt mentioned in the manual and also how to setup preset wb using the shortcut key which again isnt mentioned in the manual, although ken doesnt say you have to press the shutter half way down (if any d40 people are reading) its a superb guide I think http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d40/users-guide/controls.htm

 

thanks for all the tips

thanks Ive written all these things down for when Im out next so I can tick them off and experiment with them.

 

Im thinking my lens would be better at 20mm than 18mm or not much difference?

Im looking to improve my landscape photography and the one ultimate thing I

notice that makes a good landscape photo is having something close to give the

image depth, its on almost every landscape image you see, quick example just off

the net nothing fancy

http://www.northernlandscape.co.uk/images/mobile/ullswater1.jpg

 

I am wondering what you should focus on for best effect? Ive got a d40 so only 3

focus points but what should I be aiming at in these instances? The sky or the

rock with max aperture?

 

 

Thanks

I found some good reviews of it this site:

 

http://www.photographyreview.com/cat/lenses/35mm-zoom/nikon/PRD_84736_3128crx.aspx

 

:)

one thing Im wondering is will the AF Nikkor 70~210mm f/4-5.6 (first non-D version) be an AI lens or will it need to have been converted. I guess its AI, or is it? I dunno :)

thanks for all the advice, manual focus is a big issue so Id prefer to have one with a bigger focus ring so I guess the 70-300 is out, although as long as its not loose I guess it would work. I shall try a and get the AF Nikkor 70~210mm f/4-5.6 (first non-D version) on ebay I think or second hand shop in uk.

 

Thanks very much great information

sorry Im not typing the question mark, its a pound sign but this forum font doesnt have the pound sign installed evidently.

the nikon 55-200 is not ?60 here in the uk its more like ?132. Im looking to pay a whopping ?50 for the above.

 

So 1 vote for the nikon, well interesting, dont know if its metal though probably not.

 

I wonder if thatll be the only vote! :)

I tend to use the aperture mode but I think I might use p mode for a bit as some of my images are a bit dark sometimes, the more complex thing Im finding hard moving into DSLR is the white balance and raw issue. When I shoot in raw all my images tend to look a bit dull but you can change the white balance but i dont understand if shooting in raw ignores your white balance settings? I use preset white balance sometimes which really does help.

Im looking to buy one of these lenses for under ?50 ($100) as I wont be using it

much, anyway its for a d40 and I need to manually focus with these. I know none

of them are great but which is the best of the bad bunch. I want to be able to

use the manual focus well, so I want the best manual focus at long length.

 

 

 

Nikon AF 70-300mm F4-5.6G

 

Nikon AF 80-200mm F4-5.6D

 

Sigma 70-210mm F4-5.6D UC-II, Nikon Fit

 

Sigma 55-200mm F4-5.6 DC, Nikon Fit

 

 

 

I am thinking after looking on the internet that the sigma 70-210 is the best of

the bunch.

 

I am only looking to get these or similar priced, I can buy these ones currently

from a shop. I guess there are tamrons on ebay etc. but I guess there all as bad

as each other but I wanted the best one out the those I mentioned rather than

anything else.

 

Thanks

I have a hoya circular polariser, it has a white mark on it for reference of

where it was.

 

Now I keep reading they work best at 90 degree angle to the sun, forgive me if

Im being stupid but I just dont understand this. Does this mean the line has to

line up with the sun at a 90 degree angle or the cameras position? Ive read

about it but I just dont understand what is meant by the 90 degree or at least

its confused me to how you can get a 90 degree angle when the sun, does this

mean if the sun is say high in the north east, then the line has to be 90

degrees right?

 

Im confused. Do you even need to know the angle? Cant you just move the filter

around at look what does the effect best?

 

thanks

Does anyone know if the raynox 250 fits on a nikon d40 with standard 18-55 afs

edII zoom lens? I think it does but Im not 100%. I was going to purchase a two

element nikon 4t close up filter but I have heard the raynox 250 is better?

Which is the better bet?

oops 3t and 4t rather, not 5t (5t is 62mm apparently)

I thought Id buy a nikon 6t, but there too big, 4 and 5t are 55mm, so i guess ill get a 5t , do I need to get more than one and stack them?

ah right, well there are some expensive close up lenses and then cheap ones Ive read theres not a lot of difference with the expensive ones correcting more problems than the cheapys. I dont mind paying more but is it worth it?

 

Dont suppose you have a link to a that picture you saw with similar combo? :)

Only problem is close up is glass, so it will degrade quality,whereas extension tubes wont..hmm

oh of course its still a zoom sorry. Close up lens would be better I see. I shall look into that then, thanks very much