jose_castro1
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Posts posted by jose_castro1
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<p>I have had my lens for about 6 years now and always had it stored in a dry cabinet when not is use (in tropical climate where i reside). The past year, i've noticed the rubberized coating around the body has started to get soft and most recently, sticky residue would be left on my fingers.<br>
Has anyone else had this problem? What would be the best way to fix the issue?<br>
Thanks in advance.</p>
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<p>with the internet capability of the phone, heck you can upload right after the shot! or make an SDE right out of the phone with an app and it's iTunes.<br>
will this world ever slow down? </p>
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<p>leave the body, bring the lenses.</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>won't be long before we are able to shoot first, apply light later ...</p>
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<p>My P6000 just stopped recognizing the SD cards I've been using. The camera won't even allow me to re-format and even new ones could no longer be used. I could, however, still view the pictures I took using the camera. The write-protect switch has been toggled off, by the way.<br>
I'm wondering if there are other users who can point out what's wrong before I decide to send it to the shop.<br>
TIA</p>
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<p>I'm sorry if this sounds funny, but I imagined myself kayaking carrying a camera and I may have over-killed it but...<br>
i won't kayak at night, at the very least, i probably would before sunset. therefore, i wouldn't need the 2.8 for the speed.<br>
kayak through a river or near the coast would get me what to shoot? probably wide open space or a something interesting a little far away. that makes me question why even worry about dof that the 2.8 would be available to me.<br>
shooting long at something (eg a bird in flight or a surfer) with one eye shut would easily make me lose my balance and flip the kayak. bye bye dslr + 2.8 or DO, or f/4 for that matter. <br>
using a point and shoot won't help you any better taking shots of fast wave riders or faraway air gliders. i'd be on my feet in shallow waters with a 300mm + 2x where my cold mojito is closer. but that's just me.</p>
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<p>Thanks again for the responses.</p>
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<p>Thanks Michael and Michael<br>
I read between posts and found a few information on the effect of fluorescent light. I'm about to try and do side by side shots with a 30D, same lens, ISO, aperture and shutter speed. I would expect to find the same results but hope the 5DII would do better.<br>
PS I shot at 1/500</p>
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<p>Thanks Keith. I didn't. I should've and will.</p>
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<p>Thanks for the responses. I may have termed the problem incorrectly as 'banding'. But the problem shifts horizontally. The shots were taken in burst mode and yes, the room uses fluorescent light. I couldn't post the 3rd shot as rules apply.</p>
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<p>third</p>
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<p>Hello.<br>
I'm holding my breath on this one. I used my 5DII for the first time under a low light condition and as the ISO was set at 3200, took pictures wide open and in burst mode. The result of the three successive shots are attached and the problem is obvious. I shot at lower a ISO and stopped down to f/4 and the problem isn't as apparent. Can anyone please offer to explain how this happened? Is it with the lens or the camera and is it something that can be fixed?<br>
Thanks in advance.<br>
JC</p>
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<p>Hi Derek! Any issues as to the quality of the file? I can't try it just yet nut will do so within the next few days. I'm also wondering how far the image would differ from one taken with a 5D2. </p>
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<p>Is it technically possible?<br>
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<p>I had my 30D + 85 1.2 in my toploader slung over my shoulder and both hands full with other stuff. Opening the gate to the house, the bag slipped and fell - hitting the pavement pretty hard. Slowly opened the bag indoors and could hear broken glass *crinkling* inside. (insert sad song here).<br>
Cracked the lens cover and shattered the only UV filter I ever bought. 85 baby came out fine except for some extensive air-blowing to remove the shards and powdered glass. (insert happy song here).</p>
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Perhaps the hood rotates because it's not as snug as the rotation-type hoods. Very characteristic of the click-on types. More info here if you're interested. http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-85mm-f-1.2-L-II-USM-Lens-Review.aspx
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Hi Mark.
I shot the moon last night when it was full. Some posters have suggested doing it at around or close to midnight with the following settings; 1/ISO, f8 to f/16. If you're using a light lens and speeds up to 1/160 to 1/200 and up, you may get a decent photo handheld. Otherwise, a tripod is a must.
Good luck and have fun!
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Nice. Mark I prices set to go down before Apr 30. Good time to buy.
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"I can move the top of the lens and see the numbers in the distance scale window move a
bit."
While this does no immediate effect on your photos, it might just develop into something
worse sooner or later. I suggest for you to have it looked at by Canon. BDW, my copy
doesn't have the play and I've had it for a while.
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Another option :Canon OC-E3 Off Camera Shoe Cord 3 - TTL Off-Camera Flash Cable.
Though it goes no farther than a couple of feet. Cheaper at $70.00 vs $220.00 of the STE-2.
Other options : Pocket Wizards, Radio Poppers, Flashwaves, Bowens RF Triggers
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Look up a CanoScan 4400F. Works well for me. And costs half your budget.
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i agree with anson. i used to have the 1.8 and it was fairly faster in terms of af. got the 1.2 II now and results (atleast for me) make the switch worth it despite the slower af speed. i'd rent it out if only i don't use it so often.
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Thanks everyone! The unit's in mint condition (only the case has a few scratches) but more importantly, the seller let me take some time to take pictures with it. He's got two units and is worried that the prices will be coming down hard when the f/2 comes out.
As for me, I can't stop thinking what this thing can do with or without my 1.4x II.
85mm f1.2 II rubberized coating is melting
in Canon EOS Mount
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<p>Thanks Sarah. The info on the mosquito repellant helps. This started around the time I took the kids to the beach so that may have been it. I suppose the lens will just have to go to the shop.</p>