andrew_cole3

Would you buy a Rolls that made unusual noises ? not if you had it new...the fault could be the SWM, in

which case it would cost a lot to replace or it could just be 'dry' ... other than that I would be concerned

of impending failure from friction... if its a used purchase then take a chance but don't pay over the

odds..about 2/3rds the second hand price would be enough..

just thought I would update my situation..I tried a nikkor 17-55 afs 2.8 dx g that came from greys of westminster..I was so impressed with the results at all settings across the whole image that it is now my constant companion...the d200 focus works the best it ever has..the results are spectacular...it would appear therefore that my d200 is in love with the dx types at the wider end. so be it..I have sold the others.

HI GOPPI...YOU ARE CORRECT...I THINK THE CONFUSION SEEMS TO COME, BECAUSE A DX OR ANY LENS DESIGNED FOR DIGITAL APS SENSOR IS NOT REALLY SUITABLE FOR 35MM FILM CAMERAS.. VIGNETTING OCCURS DUE TO THE SMALLER IMAGE ON THE 35MM FOCAL PLAIN AREA....A NORMAL 35MM LENS HOWEVER ON DIGITAL CAMERAS WILL CAUSE THE APS SIZE SENSOR TO CROP THE RESULTING 35MM FP AREA... THE X 1.5 DATA ONLY RELATES TO THE CROPPED IMAGE BEING PRINTED OUT TO THE SAME CANVAS SIZE AS 35MM. ;)

Shun...if you can remember how you did your tests then maybe we could do the same..it should prove one way or another if the fault is with us, our lenses, or the D200

2nd test

Hi Jim...I think you are right..I did a test for focus accuracy using the usual chart at 45 deg to plain...again it was intermittent ...you will notice the back focus issue and the acceptable focus test done immediatly after each other...I will contact nikon who are 4 miles away from me thank goodness....if your D200 was faulty when bought, you should try and get a replacement from the dealer ?

Hi Shun..thanks, will try that...but I am still wondering why it is ok in manual focus, (green focus dot also lights up on all bodies)...I still think this could be a D200 issue with certain W/A zooms that require the focus pin activation.

will post answer soon..Andy

Thanks for your answer Wyatt.

.I have already mentioned that manual focus is no probem. also, the diopter setting while in auto-focus mode would be irrelevent.

I have set the D200 and lens to autofocus single servo, centre spot focus lock on so it will only focus using the centre area.

Andy

I should have mentioned that all the lenses still work fine on my D100

sorry about that

I have a Tokina AT-X 20-30 2.8 and Nikkor 20-35 2.8..there are some issues with

both, using the D200. the Nikkor has an intermittent focus problem at the 20mm

end whereby it will not focus accuratly and not at all at infinity.. the green

dot will not confirm focus what ever the aperture setting, proving that DOF is

not an answer...my test settings are single servo using only centre spot focus,

elevated square to building subject at 100-ISO,...I usually have to refocus

several times before it is accurate or use continuous servo.. 24mm is better

and 28...35 perfect... the Tokina has no such problems but at the 20mm end the

shutter will not fire unless I switch to continuous servo.. weird or not ?? my

other nikon lenses DX G type AF-S 18-70 (ok all settings) D 80-200 2.8 and

Tokina AT-X 28-80 2.8 are all unaffected I thought that the drive pin was

probably the problem but my D lenses work ok. focussing manually is an answer

but why should I ?? is the problem within the D200 itself..bought 6 months ago

serial number starts with 8023XXX any ideas Andy.

I have a Tokina AT-X 20-30 2.8 and Nikkor 20-35 2.8..there are some issues with both using the D200 the Nikkor has an intermittent focus problem at to 20mm end whereby it will not focus at infinity accuratly, what ever the apature setting, proving that DOF is not an answer...my test settings are single servo using only centre spot focus, standing square to building subject at 100-ISO,...I usually have to refocus from close several times before it is accurate...diopter eyepiece is ok but quite irrivelent in AF mode as an answer. 24mm is better and 28-35 perfect... the Tokina has no such problems but at the 20mm end the shutter will not fire unless I switch to continuous servo.. weird or not ?? my other nikon lenses DX G type AF-S 18-70 (ok all settings) D 80-200 2.8 and Tokina AT-X 28-80 2.8 are all unaffected I thought that the drive pin was probably a problem but my D lenses work ok. focussing manually is an answer but why should I ?? is the problem within the D200 itself..bought 6 months ago serial number starts with 8023XXX any ideas Andy.

I have a Tokina AT-X 20-30 2.8 and Nikkor 20-35 2.8..there are some issues with both using the D200

the Nikkor has an intermittent focus problem at to 20mm end whereby it will not focus at infinity accuratly, what ever the apature setting, proving that DOF is not an answer...my test settings are single servo using only centre spot focus, standing square to building subject at 100-ISO,...I usually have to refocus from close several times before it is accurate...diopter eyepiece is ok but quite irrivelent in AF mode as an answer. 24mm is better and 28-35 perfect...

the Tokina has no such problems but at the 20mm end the shutter will not fire unless I switch to continuous servo.. weird or not ??

my other nikon lenses DX G type AF-S 18-70 (ok all settings) D 80-200 2.8 and Tokina AT-X 28-80 2.8 are all unaffected

I thought that the drive pin was probably a problem but my D lenses work ok.

focussing manually is an answer but why should I ??

is the problem within the D200 itself..bought 6 months ago serial number starts with 8023XXX

any ideas

Andy.

this switch is very poor in locking into position..it is very easily moved, especially when changing lenses or just holding the lens when lifting...there should be a firmer click-stop or better still have the lever recessed..there is a button in the centre which could have been used to lock the positions..then you would have to push it in to move the lever.. however, as it is, there could be a problem of accidentally moving it to the 'C' position... it is then not in focus when you re-compose, because it did not lock on the point you wanted..there are lots of complaints out there about the D200 not focusing properly. I think the problem could be this switch..the best bet is to get into the habit of checking this before shooting, tedious, yes, but better than disappointment later.

I think Nikon will have to address this problem as more complaints come in..

I use maximum 4gb lexars because I need reliability...however, when are you really likely to use 8gb or more of memory in a session or two..if you think about it, you would end up spending several hours sorting through them in photoshop or whatever before choosing any to use..

are you so uncertain that your results might not be that good in the first place ???

I think it is best to transfer/store your shots to a secure memory device when ever you get back. why would any one need 8gb or more on a single card ???

8023601 from uk Jan 07...

focus problems with Nikon D lenses using drive pin (intermittent)

focus ok with G types...any ideas.