paulmavers

Hi everyone,

 

I have been at the bad end (there is no good end) of the E18 problem in the past. I gave up on the camera only

to start it up again when it was needed for a holiday the other week. Midway through the trip the lens stuck

again. After checking various web pages I was fairly certain I could fix the problem myself, it would be a

matter of cleaning the sand out (this had been the case in the past with an old Ixus, and this camera had been

down the beach. NEVER do this with an Ixus).

 

I stripped the camera following the advice given on this decent guide:

 

http://www.avh.dds.nl/Fix-Canon-SD600-Lens-Error/

 

and got rid of all sand/dust eventually using a can of air to do the job properly. However the problem

persisted, after the lens moving in/out as it should, sometimes for as many as 20/30 times in a row it would

invariably jam again. Each time the lens jammed I would have to move the "lens rotor" around again to get it

going (please see the 4th picture on the website I mentioned above to see the "rotor"). Each time it became

jammed I realised that it was a bit of an effort to push the rotor first off, then it became easier. Basically

the "rotor" was, and is, getting stuck. After encouraging it on and freeing it up it works fine until it

(perhaps) happens into an unfavourable position and becomes jammed again.

 

I would love to fix this problem but I am not sure what steps to take. Can I get into the rotor? Can I then

replace the part? Could it be that the motor (shown on same picture) for the rotor is not powerful enough? Does

the rotor just need readjusting? and if so how can I do this? etc. etc. etc.

 

Maybe someone has had a similar experience? I am reluctant to throw things out, I would rather have a good go at

fixing them than do that. It unfortunately costs too much to take it to a pro, I can buy a new 6 meg. pix.

camera for that price and it is out of warranty, so this is my last chance before it goes in the bin, however I

think I may be near the finishing line so if anyone can offer advice I would be most grateful.

 

Thanks

 

Paul

Like I said I want the most potent infrared images possible so a filter that lets in mostly/only infrared light would be ideal. People mention Hoya and other lenses but without explaining the qualities of each and why they choose them. Is seeing through the filter a problem? Can't the shot be set up and then the filter be placed in front of lens? Thanks

Guys and gals please help. I am extremely interested in infrared photography

(b & w film photography) and have bought my first film to experiment with

(Kodak HIE) however after over two hours of trawling the internet I have come

across little or no information concerning the 'best' infrared filter to use

(when I say 'best' I mean the one that will produce the most potent infrared

images), I have a budget of no more than ?50/$100 but would ideally be looking

at ?30-?40/$60-$80. However if it is worth the extra then I can stretch

myself. Thanks

Thanks everyone, got round to concentrating on this and it was a simple case of switching the lens to 'manual' mode! Thanks again, Paul

Hi everyone this is my first time posting on photo-net although I have always

made use of other posts that have answered my many questions. I have two

cameras, an FTb and AE-1, however on both cameras when I attach my 100mm macro

lens and change the aperture the 'iris aperture' inside the actual lens doesn't

move. With the FTb and it's 50mm lens the aperture iris does move. With the AE-

1 and it's 50mm lens it doesn't. Am I right in thinking this macro lens is

incompatable with the FTb? If so which macro lens is compatable?

 

Also, how does the light measuring system work with the AE-1 if the aperture

iris does not open/close when I turn the aperture ring? (I have not used this

camera before, I borrowed it from my girlfriend so I could eventually use my

macro lens)!

 

Thanks for reading all that and I appreciate any help, Paul