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janos_kovacs

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Posts posted by janos_kovacs

  1. <p>Well as far as I am aware all Nikon lenses are compatible with the DF body as they are compatible with any other Nikon body. As a consequence I am sure the ones that work best on other bodies will work the same on the DF. When it comes down to which ones to choose, well that depends entirely on the shooter style as to what he is used to shoot with.</p>
  2. <p>In the past couple of years I witnessed on various forums, people asking for a lot of Mpx on new cameras, they said they needed to have the crop possibility. I remember years before the D800 was launched, they wanted 36 Mpx on the new Nikons. Nowdays very frequently you can see how some people want even more than 54 Mpx.<br>

    On the other hand people wanted an affordable FX camera and wanted Nikon to minimize the difference in the level of performance between the FX and DX cameras.<br>

    So I would say Nikon listened to them and now we have the D800 with 36 Mpx. Most of us we do not need that many Mpx, but it is there. I certainly think that my D4 is better than the D800 in every way including the well praised DR but that is not important.<br>

    Then you have the D610 as an affordable DX camera for everybody.They fixed the shutter, you can have it at a reasonable price.<br>

    Last but not least you have the D7100 that is nearly as good as an FX.<br>

    Is not this what we wished for ? Because to me it seems, pretty much yes, it is.</p>

  3. <p>To replace the DSC part with D<em>x</em>C and D<em>y</em>C might be one of the most effective methods.This will always allow you to determine the body that was used, if that is so important.<br>

    In addition to this if you synchronize your 2 bodies time-wise (i.e. with your Local Time), you may use just one directory on your computer HDD and sort the photos by time taken if you used the 2 bodies in one photo session.</p>

  4. <p>Well, a lot of good advices here.<br>

    I shoot sports as well and definitely the D800 does not cut it. It cannot compare with my D4, even if downsampled, upsampled, middlesampled, or whatever you want to do to it. Neither AF nor speed not even DR above ISO 600 cannot be compared with it. It is just the D800 is in another league for sports and when I say that I mean certainly below.<br>

    I reached the conclusion that it is an overrated body and my backup one, that is a D3, does a better job.<br>

    So a D3s or a D610 might be a backup option you would like to consider.<br>

    Hope it helps.</p>

  5. <p>I own 2 D3's and my D4 is about to arrive. By no means I would swap my "old tech D3" with a D600. Yes, I know, the D600 has a better image. Indeed it has, iffff you can acquire it. Now I prefer a slightly "worse" image but that I can capture always with my D3. The same works for the D700 not for the D600 though.<br>

    Now as far as technology is concerned, I find amusing the fact that the D300s is considered an "oldie" because it was launched in August 2009. Well in September 2009, Canon launched the 7D, which... it is still actual, that one is not an old technology. And this really makes me smile.</p>

    <p> </p>

  6. <p>The 5D is far better at high ISO (3200) than the 50D. The 50D is outperformed even by the Canon 40D. The 5D was one of the best cameras Canon came up with. Now since is pretty old you might have a problem in getting one in a very good shape that will allow your further shooting trouble free. <br>

    As it has been said, you may consider selling the 17-55 and the 50D for a 5D2 (or even a 7D). Than 17-40 would allow you to go wide enough for the time being.</p>

  7. <p>At this point it is arguable if there is or not a need of an upgrade or even for a better glass. Nikon 24-70 might not be as wide as needed on a DX sensor. If it were me I would invest in more practice until I could find out what I really like and would want to shoot.<br /> Now as far as D7000 or 7100 compared to D700, let's be realistic for a moment. In spite of advantages and disadvantages, a FX camera will outperform a DX one most of the time. But even though an FX camera will not make you a better photographer.<br /> I would not give up my D3 for any of the new DX cameras. But that Is my choice.</p>
  8. <p>I have a D300, but dont really have noise at ISO800. if I correctly expose the image.<br>

    I have switched ADL OFF because it is underexposing the images and brings in noise. Then I would suggest matrix metering instead of spot in similar photos that you've just uploaded.</p>

  9. <p>I use as well CNX2 and VNX2 on Win7(64). My CPU is an I7, 8Gb RAM, O/S runs on a SSD, graphics is on a high end ATI. CNX2 runs excellent, no hicups, no errors, it is faster or at least on par with LR4.<br>

    In post I use CS5, LR4 and CNX2, depending on the matter at hand. However when it comes down to quality (basic editing of course) I found CNX2 the best.</p>

     

  10. <p>@<a name="00adHo"></a><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=3670956">Eric Arnold</a><br>

    "??? dont see how this is possible as d300 and 700 use the multicam3500 AF module, same as in D3. D3s and D4. am i missing something here?"<br>

    Well I think you do. The D3 and the D3s had always better AF than the D700 and D300, it is a well-known fact. The D700 is a a D300 with a FX sensor. Infact the D700 is slightly better than the D300.<br>

    In case of doubt have a look at Thom Hogan's reviews on their AF system.<br>

    ontopic: The D90 cannot possibly lock-on quicker than the D800, except if settings are not adequate, generally speaking.</p>

     

  11. <p> <br />1- The D3 is a professional high end camera with all the coresponding bells and whistles;<br>

    2- The D700, is a high end amateur camera with all the coresponding bells and whistles;<br>

    3- AF System- Although the D700 and the D3 have the same AF system, the D3 snaps into initial autofocus faster than the D700. So when it comes to aquire focus the D3 bodies are better than the D700/D300 according to T. Hogan;<br>

    I noticed that myself as well. It seems this is an issue completely independent from the lens choice. In extreme low-light conditions the D700 sometimes needs a very "contrasty" surface to lock focus and "start focusing".<br>

    Tracking at high frame rate seems to be more precise with the D3, whereas the D700 struggles a bit to catch up; <br />4- Image quality- According to measurements on DPR, the DR is different as well. The D3 has got 8.6 EV<br />opposed to the D700 with 7.8 EV.</p>

  12. <p>Any combination which involves the 14-24 is a winner no matter if the body is FX or DX. Other lenses simply cannot compare quality wise with the 14-24G. Whoever owns it, knows it.<br /> Since there is no lowlight capability involved, the OP said he wanted a combo for landscape and architecture, I do not see the imediate advantage of the D7000 over the D300. So almost sure the D300 will do a fantastic job. Sometimes I use the 14-24 with the D300 and most of the time is wide enough and the quality is excellent.<br /> I have the Nikon 12-24 as well but that is a lense in a different class and so are the aforementioned ones. So instead of a D7000 with a 10-24 I would definitely prefer a D300 with the 14-24. But that's me.</p>

    <p> </p>

  13. <p>I suggest the following settings:<br /> a1: AF-C priority selection: release<br /> a3: Dynamic Af Area 9 or 21 points<br /> <strong>a4: focus tracking with lock on= 3 : Normal (or 5: long)</strong><br /> press the shutter half way down when (re)focus<br /> <br /><br /></p>
  14. <p>I 've been always a Capture NX user especially for basic processing and conversion. For advanced editing I resort to CS5.<br /> I ran Capture NX with all the Win based systems like XP, Vista and 7 ultimate. And although I like the results achieved with it, I cannot overlook the quirks it has.<br /> Since I upgraded my O/S to Win7, and my hardware to an I7, with 2 very good graphic cards, 6 Gigs of RAM and a SSD, CNX2 works OK, far from brilliant but OK. However it is very obvious to us the team who wrote this piece of software were not too much into photography. And it seems they are still not into it. <br /> In the old times, producst were releasead after a proper quality check, nowadays is quite ussual that manufacturers have their customers doing the hands on testing after the product purchase. The Mark III AF, Nikon 7000 hot pixels, K5 stains, are just some to mention. They fix what they can on the go and that's it.<br /> Coming back to the managers response, to me it is obvious they are aware about CNX2' shortcommings as I am pretty sure they have their own source of info, so more than a political statement, if any, you will not get.</p>

    <p> </p>

  15. <p>Simon, have a look what <strong>Joe Buissink </strong>says about the optics used at a wedding:<br />“I’m more of a zoom guy for weddings as I like being inconspicuous. I shoot single shot, lock the centre focus, and never use motordrive, so I don’t need high speed shooting,” he reveals. “I’ve always fallen in love with the images files I got out of the 5D.”<br />“The 24-70mm lens is really my workhorse,” he says, “I find this zoom lens to be one of the strongest. It gives me a wideangle and a medium telephoto in one.”<br />If you look in his bag you will find a mix of zooms and primes. <a href="http://cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/technical/lenses_for_weddings.do">http://cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/technical/lenses_for_weddings.do</a>"]<br />Have a look at <strong>Denis Reggie</strong> as well, you might be surprised to find a mix of zooms and primes there too. "<a href="http://www.learnphoto.pro/?p=496">http://www.learnphoto.pro/?p=496</a> "<br />At the end of the day what it matters is the <strong>result </strong>and the satisfaction of your customers. It is up to you how you achieve that.</p>

    <p> </p>

  16. <p>I use mostly zooms (Nikon 14-24; 24-70; 70-200mm). Zooms in the Nikon line, match and sometimes even outperforms primes. When I want to better background blur to separate the subjects, I resort to the 50 1.4 or the 85 1.4. But I definitely prefer my zooms, I guess their quality is better. <br>

    For low light photography, nowadays a f 2.8 lens will do, since bodies have a very good performance at high ISO. I felt seldom the need to have an 1.4 lense on my D3.<br>

    But at the end of the day, I think it is a matter of taste and photo style. As long as you get the result you want, it does not matter if the glass is a prime or a zoom.</p>

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