aaron_good

Christos,

 

I own an S410 (just like the S400). I have played with an S70. In retrospect, I would have rather purchased the S70. The S410 is SOOOO point and shoot that it can be a challenge when you want to control anything about the way the picture is taken.

 

I would kill for an adjustable aperture or shutter speed on it.

 

I think the size difference is minimal enough to make the S70 a more useful tool.

I too will vouch for Russell Brown's method. It has served me well.

If you are going to be doing ANY photo editing on it, I would avoid any of the 12" powerbooks/ibooks. YMMV, but I find that screen irritatingly small even to surf the web on. 2 friends of mine have those machines and I really don't like working on them.

 

If you have an Apple store near you, I would recommend going down there and playing with one before you buy it.

 

I use my PC for photo editing. My 15" G4 Powerbook's screen is far too old and dim to be useful.

At least with my 300D, applying a little Unsharp Mask goes a long way. You might give that a try.

Thanks, Robert.

Hi-

 

I am filling out my Canon rebate form, and they ask me to include

copies of the customer portion of the warranty cards that show the

model number. Am I supposed to fill out the warranty card? It doesn't say.

 

Thanks,

Aaron

I don't know if either your E-10 or D70 uses a TTL preflash, or if you can turn it off, but remember that if there's is a TTL metering preflash, it may set off your strobes before you actually expose the CCD/CMOS. On my 300D, I can't even tell there's a preflash, but there is one and it sets off slaves, which then don't have enough time to recycle before the real flash.

I read about a Photoshop technique that did essentially the same thing as that software (which I'm gonna download and play with). It involved bracketing, just like the software does, then setting different blending modes for the +1/-1 images and adjusting their curves until you get everything balanced perfectly.

 

Anyone remember how to do that? I can't remember where I found the tutorial years ago...

Doug's suggestion is pretty good.

 

Here's what I do.

 

1) Use a Curves adjustment layer to get everything BUT the sky the way I want it.

 

2) Create another Curves adjustment layer to get the sky the way I want it. Then, with that layer selected, I click on "Add Vector Mask" at the bottom of the Layer palette.

 

3) Then, using the Gradient tool, with the transition eyeballed to about how I want the simulated ND Grad to appear, I drag the gradient tool from top to bottom. I usually end up getting that part wrong and then have to drag it from bottom to top, but then you're left with a sky that has a gradual or non-gradual transition (depending how you set the sliders in the gradient tool).

 

Does anyone know how that workflow could be adjusted to make changing the type of gradient easier?

It works great for me. I only wish the C.Func to turn off the focus-assist preflash worked...

Bob-

 

Be careful and read your motherboard's instruction manual. I bought my 512MB stick of PC3200 RAM and my motherboard at the same time. Upon reading the manual, I discovered that the motherboard, which had two memory slots, could only handle one stick of PC3200 memory, or two of most lower denominations.

 

This limits me to having to sell the one stick of PC3200 RAM to get one 1GB stick or 2x 512MB sticks of PC2700 in the future.

 

Your motherboard manufacturer's website may have a manual you can use.

I tried one of those PDA screen protectors on my Canon S410. Because it is textured to make a PDA feel more "paper-like," it creates weird interference patterns on the screen.

 

Once my Olympus digital camera was in the same bag as my YashicaMat 124G, and the Yashica shifted while I was walking and it scratched the Olympus's screen pretty badly.

 

I don't think it's unreasonable for Eric to be concerned about the screen scratching.

I have also found that the brightness of my Powerbook's LCD has decreased markedly over the past 3 1/2 years. I believe this is expected. The maximum brightness is pretty dark now.

Some people find that a tablet helps. I didn't.

<p>

The <a href="http://www.3m.com/us/office/myworkspace/mos_ergo.jhtml">3M Ergonomic mouse</a> is what I use at home. It has worked well for me for years and my mom started using one at work as well.<p>

 

At work I use the <a href="http://www.naturalpoint.com/smartnav/">NaturalPoint SmartNav</a> which allows me to move my head to move the cursor. With only a few days of use it is pretty easy to use for anyone.<p>

 

Also, a generic ergonomic keyboard works pretty well.

<p>

 

Check out that 3m ergonomic mouse first, it's only about $30 from CDW, and now comes in the optical variety (light on the bottom). It allows for a much more neutral wrist position.

Godfrey:

 

I'm pretty sure that pointing a camera at a sunny sky at ISO100 and f16 will not give you the exposure you mention. Sunny 16 applies to a reflected light reading from that kind of light hitting an 18% grey card, no?

 

I could be wrong, but that was my understanding of Sunny 16.

Mac or PC?

 

Why not make the non-admin account an admin? Easy to do on Windows or OSX.

My mom bought the same setup, except with a 128 MB and 32 MB card for $150 from a

friend of hers about 1 1/2 to 2 years ago.

 

So under $100 sounds about right.

Wow. That one of the Brooklyn Bridge is amazing...

Thanks Scott. This seems to be a reasonably wide lens!

 

I really liked the picture taken of the lake, with a mountain on each side and the clouds filling the gap, Crw_5666.jpg.

The Minolta A200 supposedly has great video, but in the last review I read of it, it said the microphone is on the top so it picks up more of the sounds made by the photo/videographer than the subject.

I am thinking about getting the Canon EF 15mm f2.8 fisheye lens for my

Canon Digital Rebel, and I was hoping someone out there had taken some

pictures with it on a Rebel, 10D, 20D, D30 or D60, so I could see if

it looks wide enough.

 

Anyone have pictures taken with that lens of various subjects that I

could peruse? I looked all over the web and found reviews of the lens,

but all the pics were taken with full-frame.

<i>Jpeg has to be decoded. It is much more fragle than Tiff which is basically a bit map. If you save them to jpeg it is possible to lose a single bit of information and not be able to recover the entire picture.

<p>

In tiff information loss only effects that spot on the picture like a dead pixel in the camera.

<p>

I wouldn't save anything I wanted to keep to jpeg.</i>

<p>

That's funny. I just read somewhere else here on photo.net that TIFs are worse because while they are just bitmaps, they store their data in some weird and antiquated way that means if one byte goes south, the whole file is lost.

<p>

I apologize for contradicting you but being too lazy to try and find the thread that mentions this. I ran a couple searches and couldn't find it, but I know I read it!

<i>Come on, it's Canon!</i>

<p>

The mailing address is a PO Box, and probably an outsourced rebate processing center. There are no companies I would put above "losing" or otherwise invalidating as many rebates as they could.

The Tamron 28-75 2.8 Di has been reviewed quite favorably everywhere I've looked.

Has anyone out there actually received your large amount of Canon

rebates? Has anyone been unfairly denied?

 

I am thinking about getting some stuff with the rebates but I don't

want this to be one of those rebates I never get.

 

-Aaron