josh_ross1

<p>Dreamhost is just a web host. Any web host can do what they do so don't feel like it's a big deal to change. Not saying there is any reason to change though. I am just trying to point out the difference between your website and your web host. What you are looking for is a content management system. I highly recommend that you do not use flash however regardless of if you use flash or a CSS/XHTML solution you need to have your site rebuilt with a CMS backend system. There are lots of solutions for a range of budgets.</p>

Anyone in the US that has gotten them recently and know them to now have fans?

The microsync digital is a waste of money. It's the same price as the elinchrome unit but the range and sync speed suck. There are also a lot of reports of them breaking if you google them.

Yup, a ringflash does produce the halo shadow but it will also mostly eliminate the shadow under the chin. You can also tell it's fake because of the quality of shadow. Just some bad photoshop going on here.

 

I tried to find a good picture showing a ringlight but most good ringlight shots use the ringlight as only one small piece of the lighting. This shot at least illustrates what a single ringflash close to the background will look like.

a whibal card is great. Cheap easy and accurate.

I looked at the Amvona website and the only strobes i found were their Afterglow lights. They actually decent but the wer more expensive than alienbees stuff. Unless they were a really great deal it's just not worth it.

http://www.flashzebra.com/tips/supersigmamanualmode/index.shtml

The elinchrome skyport system is a viable alternative to the pocketwizards. It's half the price but has less range and, at least currently, does not support remote triggering. It is every bit as reliable.

Sigma 530 super DG. cheap and powerful with adjustments form 1/1 to 1/128 and an optical slave just in case.

I wrote up a comparison of the available stuff here http://on-tech.net/?p=21

I think that the lighting you are using here is very good. If you want a little more punch then the accessory flashes you mention will work perfectly. Just get them off camera.

Don't waste your money on the canon wireless system [the ST-E2]. The elinchrome skyport costs the same but it's a RF system.

Thanks.

Maybe this is a stupid question but I have to ask and don't feel like asking

someone I have to see in person :). On my 30D I think that the larger marks on

the lightmeter represent full stops but I just needed to verify? I think the

meter shows up to 2 stops under and 2 stops over but like I said I just have to

verify.

It's a great lens except for only being f/4. The 16-35 gets you f/2.8. Otherwise it's awesome.

I think in reality you don't need a mark series camera and would be better suited buying a 5D. However if you have money to burn and want the best I would rather have the 1ds MarkII over the Mark III. It's got significantly higher resolution and it's a full frame camera. Unless you are specifically shooting sports it seems like the 1ds would be a better camera.

Thankyou Sam those are all of the correct answers and you verified the f/16 f/18 question I still had.

Another correction. I think that wikipedia has an incorrect f stop scale. Another site shows 1 stop up from f/12.7 to be f/16 not f/18. They have f/12.7 f/13 f/14 f/16. Thats confusing as all hell but f/16 at iso 100 being 1 stop under seems more inline with what I have experienced.

Okay so I actually got my answer long before anyone is going to see this. I did make one mistake and that was going from f/12.5 to f/9 in order to underexpose the scene. That was just a tired mistake. You are supposed to go up in number not down so that would put 1 stop under exposed at f/18 with a shutter speed of 1/200 at iso 100.

This should read "put the aperture around f/12.5 then from there we want to go 1 stop under. That should put the aperture at about f/9; iso 100; and 1/200th."

This is a basic photography question. I put it in this forum because I didn't

know where else to put it and I was trying to figure it out for use

crosslighting in full sun.

 

Someone asked me how much to underexpose the scene when using the flash. I said

between one and two stops and then attempted to give a starting point scenario.

That's where it kinda fell apart.

 

This is what I said:

Sunny 16 rule says you should theoretically be at f/16, iso 100, and 1/125.

Since we want 1/200 [max x-sync on a 30D with a cheap radio trigger] I am

guessing that might put the aperture around f/12.5 then from there we really

want to go. That should put the aperture at about f/9; iso 100; and 1/200th.

 

If someone could tell me if I worked this out correctly I would really, really

appreciate it. My thinking was this: everything iso 100 f/16 = 1/125 [in theory]

so f/11 = 1/250. I wasn't sure exactly how much aperture I needed to get from

1/250 to 1/200 so I guessed that 2/3 stop would do it. Hence the f/12.5 then

from there 1 full stop should be f/9.

 

So how did I do with photography 101?

I used to do contact sheets in Photoshop and then I discovered how to do it using bridge and Indesign and I will never, ever, ever, do it in photoshop again. You just open up bridge select your images then go to tools and select Indesign-> create indesign contact sheet. It works pretty much like the photoshop contact sheet except it is astoundingly fast compared to photoshop, it creates a multipage document instead of a bunch pages in photoshop, and it's obviously easier to add logos and change colors and things like that. If you have the full creative suite try it out. You will never use photoshop for a contact sheet again.

I think you need a hairlight. Maybe try and use just one hard main light coming from high 45 degrees left and then your other light as a backlight/hair light.

I think if you want intelligent and useful [not that the two posted were not] replies you are going to need to say what you are going to be using them for.

If you use save it saves over the whatever file you opened. If you use save as it saves a second file but does not save the file you are working in.