jean deaux

Here's a good place to start:<p>

http://photographersindex.com/stockprice.htm<p>

 

Or you could ask him to sign a model release in exchange for usage, and sell the photo as stock.<p>

 

Just because he is a priest doesn't mean you should treat it any differently from any other business transaction. After all, the church has a budget for such things, don't they? Will the brochure printer give their services away for free?<p>

<IMG

SRC="http://www.firstlightphoto.net/galleries/temp_stock2/temporary/sf

american.jpg">

As for lenses, the advice on using the kit lens until you improve is a good one. It has a good range for general use, and shooting with it will give you the experience you need to determine what lenses to get later on.<p>

 

I can't recommend any books without knowing what you shoot. Some books teach general photography, while others cover specialties such as birds, lighting, or glamour. Yet others delve into digital workflows. Spend some time at the bookstore flipping through photography books, and see for yourself what interests you.<p>

 

Other accessories to consider are a good tripod (a must), a polarizing filter (if you shoot outdoors), an external flash, and perhaps a remote shutter release. A good tripod is definitely worth the investment. Don't buy a cheap tripod at Wal-Mart -- spend more for a sturdier one. The Manfrotto Bogen tripods are very reasonably priced. And of course you'll need a camera bag and memory cards, so don't forget to budget for those.<p>

 

Hope that helps.

60MB is the 8-bit, uncompressed file size. This comes out to something like 6000 x 4000 pixels or thereabouts, which is a bit more than what's required for a double-page magazine spread. When a stock photo agency delivers these files electronically (email, FTP, etc), they usually send it as a jpeg, which can be as small as a few MB after its been compressed.<p>

 

When you say 2 to 4 MB, are you stating the file size after jpeg compression? Or is this the file size when viewing it in Photoshop?<p>

 

Book covers vary in size, so you'll need the book dimensions before determining file size requirements. 300dpi resolutions are a standard for printing, so multiply each dimension by 300 to determine the required pixel dimensions. For a book measuring 9x12 inches, you would need pixels dimensions measuring 2700 pixels by 3600 pixels. If you multiply these pixel dimensions together, you'll have the total number of pixels: 2700*3600=9720000, or approximately 9.7 megapixels. If you multiply the number of megapixels by 3, you'll get the approximate 8-bit, uncompressed file size. For a book cover measuring 9x12 inches, you'll need a file size of approx 29 MB. If you compress this as a jpeg, you'll end up with a much smaller file size. How small depends on the jpeg compression and the amount of detail in any particular photo.<p>

 

Hope that helps.

What does the contract say? If it does not define "gallery representation," ask the gallery to define it in writing on the contract.

Gary,<p>

 

I just checked the online pricing calculator at a stock agency and a full page for a national quartely with a circulation of 5000 quotes $337. 1/4 page is $153, and 1/8 page is $137. And in case your wildest dream comes true, a front cover commands $539. You should probably to check with other stock agencies to see what they charge.

<p>

Another good reference can be found <A HREF = "http://photographersindex.com/stockprice.htm"> here</a>.

<p>

Hope this helps.

<p>

I've never heard of a magazine cover being considered Commercial usage (though this is a common arguement about book covers). Many magazine covers have candid people photography and illustrate private property. I wonder how much of this is properly released...

<p>

<A HREF = "www.firstlightphoto.net">Stock and Decor Photography at First Light Photography</A>

I remembered seeing this a while back:

http://www.professionalphotography101.com/photographs/tuna.html

Read this:<br>

<A HREF = "http://www.stockartistsalliance.org/PDF_Docs/SAA_StockLicensingModels.pdf">Understanding Stock Licensing Models</A>

<p>

Hope this helps. <p>

Ei Katsumata<br>

<A HREF = "http://www.firstlightphoto.net">Decor and Stock at First Light Photography</A>

Hi Alex,

<p>

I have heard of VU, but do not know any contributing photographers. You might want to ask this question on the <a href="http://www.stockphoto.net">stock photo board</a>.

 

You might want to consider <a href="http://www.photoresearchers.com/main.html">Photo Researchers</a> or <a href="http://www.heilmanphoto.com">Grant Heilman</a>. Both specialize in the natural sciences and I've heard great things about them.

<p>

Hope this helps.

When shooting digital, you want to make sure you don't blow out the highlights. Thankfully, most digital bodies will let you see the histogram on the LCD right after your exposure.

For the calendar, I would think you would need releases. For the newsletter, a release shouldn't be required because it would be classified as editorial usage.

<p>

Ei Katsumata<br>

<A HREF = "www.firstlightphoto.net">Stock Photography at firstlightphoto.net</A>

Books are considered editorial, and as such, releases are not required for people/property published in books (except for 'sensitive usages'). But because they (publishers) incorrectly captioned your horse as an "extra stunt horse," perhaps your horse can sue the publisher for libel ;-)

<p>

Ei Katsumata<br>

<A HREF = "www.firstlightphoto.net">Stock Photography at firstlightphoto.net</A>

First of all, invest in a <A HREF = "http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/search-handle-form/002-4649843-0596827"book on stock photography></A> to learn the basics of the industry. You can also learn a lot on the web if you search around.<p>

 

There seems to be a number of stock photography websites popping up that take advantage of unknowing photographers. These sites will offer to sell your images for next to nothing, while they keep the majority of the sale. Many contributors submit to these sites because they don't know of any other ways to get published. I won't name these sites here, but keep in mind that a fair price for stock photos is usually in the hundreds of dollars (US) per license.<p>

 

fotosearch is a portal--they represent the work of other agencies (see the left-hand column of their home page). I've never heard of engine101 before. Judging by the limited collection, I'd guess that it's a pretty new agency. Also, the pricing seems a bit on the low side.<p>

 

Hope that helps,<p>

 

Ei Katsumata<br>

<A HREF = "www.firstlightphoto.net">Stock Photography at firstlightphoto.net</A>

My response above refers to editorial usage of the person's photo and name. If used in an advertisement, a release would be required (as Bert already suggested).

I can't see why this would be a problem, even if the magazine uses the person's name. I would just ensure that the caption is accurate and doesn't misrepresent the individual.

Common sized mats are those you find precut at your local art or framing stores(as someone else pointed out, check out Light Impression for precut mats. Here are some typical sizes:<p>

Print size Mat size<br>

8x10 11x14<br>

11x14 16x20, or 18x24<br>

16x20 20x24, or 22x28<p>

 

As others have already stated, there is no set standard. In my personal opinion, the mat sizes are a bit small. I prefer slightly larger mats.<p>

<A HREF = "http://www.firstlightphoto.net">Travel and Nature Imagery at First Light Photography</A>

Digital cameras store this info in EXIF. For film, I rarely bothered, unless I was testing new film or new gear.<p>

 

<A HREF = "www.firstlightphoto.net">Stock Photos and Fine Art Prints at First Light Photography</A>

How about these:

<p>

Title: "Twilight over Inverness, Baltimore County, Maryland"<br>

Keywords: twilight, sunset, reflection, clouds, landscape, water, lake, peaceful, tranquil, serene, etc.<br>

<p>

At first glance, I thought your Inverness photo was taken in Inverness, Marin County, California, but further digging revealed the correct Inverness. There are also Invernesses in both Ohio, Florida, and probably a few other states, so it's probably important to include Maryland in your caption.

<p>

My old website has an "Image Details" page for each and every image on the site. The "Image Details" included a thumbnail, Image ID, description, and detailed location information (e.g. "Crissy Field, Golden Gate Bridge, The Presidio, Golden Gate National Recreation Area, San Francisco, California"). I've had photobuyers find my images via search engine by searching for location info which were listed on these "Image Details" pages.

<p>

Hope that helps!<p>

 

<A HREF = "www.firstlightphoto.net">Stock Photos and Fine Art Prints at First Light Photography</A>

For 35mm film SLRs, they sell slide duplicating tubes, that are essentially really cheap macro lenses that focus to 1:1 only. Which means that if you try to use this on your 20D, you will crop the slides by a factor of 1.6.

 

You can also consider using a macro lens, setting it up on a copystand with your slide on a lightbox below it.

 

Personally, I'd stick with the Nikon V scans, for the following reasons:

1) quality is far superior with a film scanner.

2) your Nikon V will produce 21MP scans (vs. your 20Ds 8MP).

3) if you don't need 21MP scans, set your Nikon V to scan at a lower resolution--that ought to speed things up.

4) digital ICE -- not available in your 20D, but if you don't need it anyways, turn it off, as it will speed scan times significantly.

I've bought 3 BP511 batteries on eBay, and they work great. I'm sure they vary from vendor to vendor, but well worth the gamble at the prices they are asking. Make sure you check S/H prices, as some sellers will try to ream you.

Selling images of people and private property for editorial usage is generally legal. For commercial usages, such as selling prints, the photographer will need a model and/or property release.

 

As for event photography, it depends on the venue. Often times, photography restrictions are printed on the ticket. By using the ticket, you are accepting its terms.

Ian Marshall wrote: "Or would u really licence it and 'trust / hope' it does not get used elsewhere?"

 

In order for stock photographers to license images, they need to trust their clients, especially in this digital age. There will always be those who infringe on copyrights, but that's just the cost of doing business. In my opinion, it's better to sell a hundred usage licenses and have an image or two "stolen" than not license any images at all.

Nelson,

 

Macro flash brackets are cheap...at least in comparison to your speedlites:

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=325232&is=REG

Thanks for your thorough response Sean. And I agree with Kelly about the importance of a useful name. However, that's what metadata is for. If I gave everyone of my photos a "useful" name, the file names would be far too long, and I often shoot the same places and people dozens of times for it to be of any real value to me (e.g. Joanie_at_Ocean_Beach_in_San_Francisco_v58,...).

 

I plan on using either IMatch or iView MediaPro to catalog my images. If I decide to convert my static website to a dynamic one in the future, it shouldn't be too much of an issue, as I believe both iView MediaPro and IMatch can export the database in SQL format.

 

Anyways, thanks again.

First of all, thanks for the responses.

 

Sean, what do the "SP" in SPC and SPF stand for? Is the "SP" a constant? Or does it indicate a date, subject or some other variable? I was thinking of doing something similar, but with a two letter prefix: the first indicating camera body and the second indicating film type (color negs, slides, or b&w) or file type (CRW, jpg, or TIFF). So a file named AL123456 would be the 123456th image taken with camera body A, and film type L (or file type L if taken with a digital camera). This filing system would allow me to use 26 camera bodies over the course of my life (already up to 8) and a combination of 26 film types and file types.

 

Jean-Baptiste,

I'd like to avoid using any dates in my filing system, as the dates will be easily accessible via EXIF data. I plan to enter the EXIFs for my film scans as well.

 

Again, thanks for the responses. Anyone else have any suggestions?